Aparna Kumar

Aparna Kumar is a 2002 batch IPS officer of Uttar Pradesh cadre. She was attracted to mountaineering a few years earlier when she was posted at Moradabad, and commanding The 9th Battalion PAC (which guarded the Chinese border before ITBP came into being). She was awarded Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award in 2018 for land adventure by the President of India.
Career and Training.
An interesting turn in the life of Aparna Kumar, IPS began when she was posted as Commandant 9th Bn. P.A.C. Moradabad. The 9th Bn. P.A.C. has had a glorious past in the high attitudes of Uttaranchal manning the sensitive Indo-Tibetan border at Askot, Badrinath and Uttarkashi. In 1992 the charge of these posts was handed over to the ITBP.
The nostalgic riveting months of the foundation course in Lal Bahadur Shastri National Academy of Administration(LBSNAA) Mussorie in 2002, and the fascination and curiosity towards the various mountaineering equipment, tent and gear at 9th Battalion triggered her to apply to do the one-month Basic Mountaineering Course at Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports (ABVIMAS) Manali, Himachal Pradesh in October 2013. She had always maintained a minimum level of fitness, but the foundation course and the trekking experience in the Himalayas left an indelible mark in her heart and mind.
She made her first attempt at climbing Mount Everest in April–May 2014, but due to major avalanche and the biggest disaster (16 sherpas lost their lives) on the Everest, all expeditions were called off by the Nepal Government. Thereafter she attempted to climb Lobuche East peak (6,119 m/20,075 feet) and was able to summit it in April 2013. She found it difficult and strenuous, as she had to survive in temperature of -35 degrees and rare oxygen. In June 2013, she successfully climbed Stok Kangri (approximately 20,182 feet) in Ladakh, thereby becoming the first-ever IPS/ All India Service officer to do it.
She completed her Advance Mountaineering Course at ABVIMAS, Manali in July 2014 with flying colours and became eligible to undertake expeditions. She was adjudged with grade of A plus.
She got the good news of promotion from SSP to DIG on 2 January 2016. Then she scaled the highest peak of Antarctica. She was carrying the flag of India and U.P. Police on the top. She is the first-ever All India service officer (IAS, IPS, IFS) both male and female to achieve such a feat. She has just been promoted as DIG in January and now posted as DIG Technical services in Lucknow.
Mountaineering Conquests.
The brisk pace at which she has done the six of the Seven Summits (climbing the highest peaks of seven continents) is just startling. It is even remarkable that the lady from Bengaluru who is the mother of two, and who never saw snow before coming for foundation course at Lal Bahadur Shashtri Academy of administration in Mussorie in 2002, has been consistently achieving success in climbing these heights which no other person in the esteemed bureaucracy of India has ever done it. Scaling Mount Everest is the ultimate dream of every mountaineer. At 8,848 metres (above 29,000 feet) above sea level, it's the roof of the world. The summit to Everest even involves immense risk to life, as year after year, there has been numerous deaths and loss of limbs due to frostbite.
Africa - Kilimanjaro.
On August 30, 2014 she was successful in climbing Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m/19,340 feet) in Tanzania, the highest peak in Africa. The 15-day, ten-member expedition was not so difficult, as she was very well prepared. She fondly remembers the breathtaking valley view while climbing, and also the enchanting flat Glacier at the top. She unfurled the flag of India and U.P. Police and became the first ever IPS/ All India Service Officer to scale the height.
Australia - Carstensz Pyramid.
She continued to train and fine tune her Rock climbing skills and improving physical endurance, before her next Expedition. On 7 November 2014 She successfully scaled Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 m/16,024 feet) situated in West Papuan province of Indonesia, the highest peak in Australia and Oceania. It is considered an extremely challenging climb, as it entailed high degree of stamina and technical climbing skills. The way to reach the base camp is via Bali island and more than six hours to one of the remotest places on earth, where you require special permit because of protected tribal area. The vertical and jagged Rocky climb was extremely challenging as it involved test of one's physical strength and mental toughness. She again became the First ever IPS/ All India Service Officer (male or female) to achieve this feat.
South America - Aconcagua.
After a fortnight rest she began her preparation for her next Expedition in South America. Mount Aconcagua in Argentina is the Highest peak outside the continent of Asia. She did a special 15 days high-altitude training in Manali, Himachal Pradesh to acclimatize and fine tune her skills in snow craft. The long flight to Buenos Aires, Argentina is taxing and requires at least two days to recuperate from the Jet lag. Amongst the nine-member expedition team one of the members had to be sent back just below the summit, as his condition due to High altitude Pulmonary Edema(HAPE) began to deteriorate. Luckily for her, there was no such physical problem and her body responded very well. On January 14, 2015 she successfully summitted Mount Aconcagua (6,962 m/22,840 feet) situated in Argentina, the highest peak in South America. The 20 odd days expedition was very tiring as it involved long travel from India and braving height of around 23,000 feet in -35 degrees and lower Oxygen levels. She became the first ever IPS/ All India Service Officer to achieve this feet.
She went for the Mount Everest expedition on 5 April 2015 to Kathmandu. From there she started her Trek to the North side Base camp, China. Unlike the last year attempt at climbing Everest, she had some bigger plans to first scale the Everest from North side and then attempt from the South side in Nepal. No Indian woman has achieved this feat in the same year. The Everest mission had to be called off due to the High intensity Earthquake in Nepal which caused large scale disaster in Nepal and parts of China. The second time unlucky Aparna says that watching Everest everyday (during her climb up to 25,000 feet this year, before the quake hit ) has emboldened her resolve to make it to the top one day. Everest is like a magnet and the more you see the more you get attracted. It's the ultimate mission and dream of every mountaineer to summit the Everest.
Europe - Elbrus.
Keeping her disappointment of Everest aside, she immediately got on to the job of training for her next expedition of conquering the highest peak in Europe. She reached St. Petersburg, Russia on 25 July along with ten other climbing members to scale Mount Elbrus (5642 metres, around 18,510 feet). The climb was begun on 26 July and on 4 August at around 12.30 pm India Time, the team finally reached the summit. She again made history as she became the first ever All India Service officer (IAS, IPS, IFS), male or female, to achieve this feet. She came in communication range on 5 August and shared the good tidings with the family and friends. Successfully Climbing Elbrus strengthened her resolve to summit the other three expeditions: Antarctica (Mount Vinson Massif), Asia (Mount Everest) and North America (Mount Denali) in coming months.
She was proud and elated carrying the Tricolour and the flag of Uttar Pradesh Police at the top, in each of her expeditions. The toil, hard work and every drop of sweat, was worth it. The high-adrenalin moments at the summit were emotional moments as well, as a year in hindsight she never imagined herself chasing summits of some of the highest peaks of the world.
Antarctica - Mount Vinson and South Pole.
She started for the Antarctica expedition on 5 January 2016 from Delhi to Punta Arenas in Chile via Santiago. She was part of the Ten members expedition team, other members were from USA, Canada, South Africa, U.K., Australia, etc. At the Mount Vinson Massif in Antarctica her skills in snow craft and pulling her 30 kg sledge on the ice was put to test in freezing environment of the South pole. The temperature went up to -30 degrees and sometimes touching -40 degrees even, and on top high speed icy wind was about 100–120 km per hour. Another big challenge for her was pulling her own sledge full of luggage, as there are no porters for help. So as you make gradual climb, you pull your sledge which saps your energy.
She reached union glacier in Antarctica from Puenta Arenas in Chile and started her climb. The team was lucky as they could get a window of climb on their first day of reaching the advance base camp. They were expected to summit around 23 January but could do so 5 days earlier. On 17 January at 11 pm India Time and 2 pm local time she summited Mount Vinson Massif (about 17,000 feet), the highest peak in Antarctica. She contacted me from satellite phone from Union glacier on return on 21 January and shared the much awaited news. She was already beyond communication range for nine days. Surviving in the icy winds above 100 km per hour and -40 degree temperature took toll on her, as she lost more than 5 kg of weight and had a mild frostbite. She has gradually recuperated and is back on the field.
She trained very hard in the last four months before the Expedition at KD Singh Babu stadium. Her day would start at 4.30 am in the morning, when she did intense endurance training followed by Weight training at the stadium. "Her focused approach, hard work, sacrifice and consistent commitment has paid of", says her mother who has encouraged her and has been a great help in looking after the kids when Aparna is out on Expeditions. I don't think it would have been possible without mom's selfless contribution. Her children, ten-year-old Spandana and five-year-old Neelkantha are ecstatic and say that "We are Proud of Mom and are happy that now Mom shall be returning home soon with some gifts and souvenir for us".
Asia - Mount Everest.
After two unsuccessful attempts to scale the Everest in 2014 and 2015 due to avalanche and earthquake, respectively, she finally did it in 2016. She successfully scaled the highest peak of the world on May 21, 2016 at 11.02 IST. A satellite phone call from the top about the final summit sent frenzy among all family members and friends. She became the first female IPS officer to achieve this feat. Also she became the first ever All India Service officer (male or female) to scale the highest peaks of six continents out of seven. The expedition to conquer the Everest began on 9 April 2016 and it took more than 45 days of hardship braving low temperatures up to minus 45 degrees and high-speed chilly winds up to 150 km before she could reach the top. She was climbing from the northern (Chinese) side and had four other team members from USA, Belgium and India. She had to undertake acclimatization trips up and down the climb 1 and base camp, before launching herself for the final assault. She lost almost 13.5 kg during the expedition, experienced extreme sun burn and even had marginal frost bites and severe chest congestion.
She unfurled the flag of India and UP Police at the Everest before she began her climb back to climb three and further down. The last stretch of climb to the summit is extremely strenuous, and almost 12 hours of whole night and early morning trek before one reaches the top of Everest. It was special day- Buddh Purnima Day, and she could feel that the blessings of the almighty helped her summit and safe return, despite being extreme exhaustion and fatigue. It's so tiring that the physical endurance is put to its most challenging test and its only the mental toughness and the diehard resolute that helps you reach there. "The Climb was tough but the view from the Top is worth it" - Aparna Kumar after scaling Mount Everest.
A call from satellite phone at 11.15 hours IST to her husband sent waves of celebration and a sigh of relief amongst family, friends and bureaucratic fraternity across the country. Her passion for the task, unbeatable resolve to achieve the difficult, matchless disciplined training helped her achieve this feat in her third attempt. It was an emotional moment for her mother who was in Bengaluru with the kids during their summer vacation. She almost broke down in happiness and rushed to the temple nearby to pay obeisance to the almighty whose blessings helped her daughter fulfill her dream. She set a new benchmark of success defying the logic of age bar for achievement.
North America - Denali, Alaska.
In 2019, she climbed Mount Denali in Alaska and completed her Seven Summits challenge.
Seven Summits and Explorers Grand Slam.
She has now completed the Seven Summits (the highest peaks of the seven continents), she has targeted. She has accomplished what no other officer has. She has proven that women can excel in the hitherto male-dominated arena of extreme adventure sports. She has given many moments of proud and appreciation for her family, and the entire family of bureaucracy from Uttar Pradesh.
With an expedition to the North Pole, Aparna will complete the Explorers Grand Slam, which includes Seven Summits and the Two Poles.
Aparna firmly believes that the blessings of the God and her mother has helped achieve. She credits her senior officers both in the IAS and IPS who encouraged and supported her throughout. The Chief minister of Uttar Pradesh also encouraged her to take up the gigantic mission and also sanctioned financial support for her Mount Everest Expedition. In March 2015 she was awarded with 'Rani Lakshmi Bai Puruskar' by the Honorable Chief Minister Of Uttar Pradesh for her outstanding achievements and being a role model for many women at large. On eve of the Republic Day in 2016, she was conferred the 'DGP Commendation Disc' for her brave effort and outstanding achievement. In March 2016 she was conferred the 'Yash Bharti Samman', the highest civilian award of the state by the chief minister of Uttar Pradesh. She was given The Devi award in November 2016 instituted by the Sunday Standard and Indian Express group.