Hans Florine

Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964) is an American rock climber, who holds the record for the number of ascents of Yosemite Valleys El Capitan and is known for holding the speed record on "The Nose" of Yosemite’s El Capitan 8 different times. Hans' last speed record on The Nose was accomplished with Alex Honnold for climbing "The Nose" in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), on June 17, 2012. In addition to climbing El Capitan over 160 times, Hans also holds the record for the number of ascents of "The Nose" climbing it more than 101 times.
El Capitan is traditionally climbed in three to five days. "The Nose" route is and features 31 pitches of strenuous, exposed climbing. This translates to a rate of roughly 6 minutes per pitch.
Florine is well regarded in the climbing community, and pioneered many of the methods currently used in speed climbing.
Climbing career.
Florine started climbing as a teenager in 1983, and began competing in bouldering and speed competitions by 1987 at a time when competition climbing was not popular. He found that by speed climbing in competitions he was able to earn some money to fund his climbing, and by climbing quickly he could simply get more climbing in.
He broke "The Nose" speed record with Yuji Hirayama in 2002, with a time of 2:48:55. This was bested by German brothers Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber in 2007, however, Florine and Hirayama regained the record with a time of 2:43:33 just six months later. They improved again to set a time of 2:37:05 (2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds), on October 12, 2008.
On July 30, 2005, Florine also completed a solo ascent of "The Nose" in just 11 hours and 41 minutes. Solo ascents are characterized by climbing by yourself while using a rope for protection, and require one person to do all the work.
In 2018 he broke both his legs during a training run up "The Nose" after a piece of protection popped out of a crack. He and his partner were rescued by Yosemite Search and Rescue the next day.
Race against Pedro Hoffmeister.
On May 18, 2019, Fluorine and Pete "Pedro" Hoffmeister raced in a NIAD ("Nose In A Day" - 3000 feet of rock climbing in one day). The race was titled "Super Local vs. Super Pro," and took place at The Columns, Skinner's Butte Park, in Eugene, Oregon. Both climbers were coming back from devastating injuries. Hoffmeister had the advantage of knowing all of the routes. Florine did not know the routes. Hoffmeister won the race, climbing 3000 feet, 64 routes, in 2:05:55. Florine clocked 2:27:05.
Competition Climbing.
Florine has been climbing competitively since 1988. He has won 3 gold medals in X-Game speed climbing, in 1995, 1996 and 1997.