Fuvahmulah

Fuvahmulah City (Dhivehi: ފުވައްމުލައް) is an island (atoll) in the Maldives. It is under Maldives administrative divisions of Gnaviyani Atoll or Nyaviyani Atoll. The inhabitants speak a distinctive form of the Dhivehi language, known as "Fuvahmulaki baha".
Fuvahmulah means "Island of the Areca nut palms", "Fuvah" (or "Fuva") in the local language. Other places in the world like Penang in Malaysia and Guwahati in Assam, India, are also named after this nut. The original name of the island could have been Mulah, but was called Fuvahmulah (the "Mulah" with the areca nut palms) to distinguish it from Boli Mulah – another island in ancient Maldives.
The admiralty charts and some geographers named the island "Fua Mulaku". In old French maps the island appeared under the name "Poue Molluque".
History.
Little is known about the history of Fuvahmulah. All that remains are some landmarks of the historical past.
These include a much damaged Buddhist stupa known as "Fua Mulaku Havitta". Its actual shape has been lost because of the damage done by careless digging to find artifacts or for research purposes. The ruin is about 40 feet in height and it looks like a small hill. A smaller mound, about 15 feet in height, is located near the Havitta.
An ancient local poem says: "Havitta uhe haudahau, Redin taneke hedi ihau".(Thor Heyerdahl visited this island and wrote a book which is named 'Fua Mulaku' in its German edition.)
There is also the "Vasho-Veyo", an ancient circular bath with stone steps. This stone pool reveals great craftsmanship in the cutting of Porites coral stone (hirigal) by the locals.
Among the monuments of the Islamic period, the most important is the Gen Miskit, a neat compound including a coral stone mosque, an ancient graveyard and a well. It is located on the northern end of the island. The Gen Miskit is said to be the oldest mosque in Fuvahmulah.
It has been said that the island was depopulated and resettled thrice in the last thousand years owing to lethal epidemics. The last time the survivors of the epidemic went to the neighboring Addu, Huvadhu and Haddhunmathi Atolls and stayed there for a few years.
During the secession of the Southern Atolls from the North (1959–1963), Fuvahmulah was a part of the Suvadive Islands. Nothing eventful happened during those years except that once a boat (Elizabeth Boyer) with soldiers from Malé sent by the central government tried to disembark unsuccessfully at Rasgefanno. The island people gathered at the beach and threw stones at the soldiers. The soldiers fired back, and one man of the island was shot in the head and died instantly. Two other islanders who were seriously wounded by gunshots were ferried by dōni the same day, to Gan, in Addu Atoll. The British, who were stationed in Gan sent them by air to Ceylon for treatment.
Recent history.
On 4 February 2007 a fire burned down the Community Center building. The fire started around 3:00 am local time. The Regional Fire Services, Maldives Police Services, and locals contained the fire, within 2 hours after the fire started. An investigation was carried out by the Police, but a report was not published. Police said the most likely cause of the fire was an electrical short.
On 23 February 2007, a fire started at the boat yard near the harbor. The fire completely burnt 6 fiberglass dhows. Four of these dhows were 100 feet and the remaining two were 40 feet long. This fire also started around 3:40 am local time. Fire was first spotted, instantly after the fire started by a local fisherman. The Fire Service was called immediately. But since fiberglass resin is highly flammable, and there was no sprinkler system, the fire spread to the 6 dhows and the fiberglass resin barrels in the yard. It took the fire personnel, Maldives National Defense Force and local 2 hours to contain the fire. A forensics team of the Maldive Police Service did the investigation. All the dhows were insured. In an interview with media, the atoll chief said the loss is estimated to be around MRF 20 Million, although insurance companies never publicly disclosed the figures. This fire is said to be the worst fire in the history of the island.
Geography.
The island is south of the country's capital, Malé. The Fuvahmulah city is about by with a submerged reef (Rashikedefaro) extending for about in a southeasterly direction. The island is the third largest in the Maldives. In the past, Fuvahmulah was a small coral atoll whose southern end was open at a spot called Diyarehifaando and the inside of the island was a saltwater lagoon forming a natural harbor. There is a spot on the southern end known as Kudhuheraival (forest of a small islet), which indicates there was a small separate islet over there in ancient times.
The channel connecting the lagoon with the ocean was closed by massive coral boulders in the past. Thus the inside of the island is lower than its edges. In time the inner lagoon lost its saltiness and all that remains today are two small lakes, wetlands and marshy taro fields. In this respect, Fuvahmulah is like the island of Nukutavake in the Central Pacific.
The northern lake of the island is known as "Dhadimagi Kilhi" (lit. "Lake of Dhadimagu" or "Dhadimagu Lake" since the lake is located in Dhadimagu ward of the island) and the southern is "Bandaara Kilhi" (lit. "State Lake" since the lake has been under state custody throughout history).
Lacking a lagoon and being subject to ocean swells, Fuvahmulah was often inaccessible to seafarers in the past. In the early 2000s a harbor was built at the southeast tip of the island, which minimized the problem to a certain extent. The construction of a domestic airport on the island in 2011 has gradually opened the island to the rest of the country.
Environment.
Being the nearest atoll to the Equator and the first atoll in the Southern Hemisphere among the atolls of the Maldives, Fuvahmulah has many features which make the island unique. As H.C.P Bell says in his monograph, throughout history Maldivians themselves have fairly judged Fuvahmulah to be the most beautiful island in the Maldives. This judgement remains up to this day within the hearts of many Maldivians who express this both in words and deeds on different occasions ranging from TV and radio programmes to the polls taken by newspapers and websites online.
Being a one-island atoll itself and the third largest island in the Maldives (if not for land reclamation), Fuvahmulah includes a diverse range of habitats ranging from tropical woodlands and wetlands to freshwater lakes, well-vegetated marshland areas, white sandy beaches of different variations and pebble texture plus gravel beaches and fertile lands of humus greater in area than any other island in the Maldives. The two freshwater lakes in the island plus the many number of swamps and marshland areas in the island give habitat to different plant and animal species not to be found anywhere else in the Maldives. Among such species, the common moorhen (locally known as Valikukulhu) is a bird natively confined to Fuvahmulah only in the Maldivian archipelago. Also, the dense forest of Syzygium cumini (Jambul), locally known as "Dhanvah Baal" (literally "Jambul grove") to the North of Dhadimagi Kilhi is the largest vegetation of Jambul to be found anywhere in the Maldives since this plant variety is nearly extinct elsewhere in the country. Fuvahmulah is also the largest producer of mangoes in the Maldives. Mango trees are found in abundance and every year hundreds of thousands of mangoes are produced from the island. Fuvahmulah also produces pineapples and oranges which cannot be found anywhere else in the country.
The wetland areas of Fuvahmulah are mostly made up of dense vegetation ranging from ferns to reeds to taro fields. There is an abundance of water spinach locally known as Mahilanbo "މަހިލަނބޮ and plant varieties such as "Syzygium cumini" (jambul), pond-apple, mango, pineapple, screwpine, tropical almond, cheese fruit, ambarella, banana and many more. Fuvahmulah is also home to farmland where locals grow crops such as cucumber, tomato, carrot, cabbage, pepper, capsicum, eggplant and ladies' fingers.
Natural phenomena.
There is a broad sandy beach at the northernmost point of Fuvahmulah in the district of Dhadimago. It is locally known as "Thūndu" (In official Dhivehi "Thundi"). Its sands are formed by white small round pebbles, which are unusually smooth and shiny. This kind of pebbles are found in Fuvahmulah only in the Maldives and visitors to the island usually collect them as a memory of the island.
It is common for an annual phenomenon called "Bissaaveli" to form at the Thūndu. The Bissaaveli forms when part of the sand of the beach moves away from the shore towards the edge of the reef, thus creating a lagoon, enclosed by sand and the shore of the island. This natural event attracts hundreds – possibly thousands – of locals who love to go to watch it. When it is well-formed, the "Bissaaveli" is enclosed from all sides, creating a natural shallow swimming pool where locals like to swim.
Another natural phenomenon called "Kalho-Akiri" (meaning "Black Pebbles") occurs on the south-east shore of the island. This area only has black pebbles, quite unusual to the normal white coral sand beaches of the Maldives.
Every year, towards the end of the southwest monsoon season, flying fish (Hulhammaha) come to the northwestern shore of Fuvahmulah. Confused by the number of voracious tuna shoals in the water and by aggressive frigate birds hunting them from the air, the flying fish would end up flying close to the beach. They mostly end up in the area between Thoondu and Dhadimago fanno where this phenomenon is most common. Men, women and children like to go down to the reef to catch the flying fishes by hand in the midst of a joyful atmosphere. Large crowds will gather on the beaches for what the locals called "Hulhammaha Hifun".
Municipal divisions.
Fuvahmulah was traditionally divided into nine wards. From North to South these wards were: (1) Dhadimagu, (2) Dhiguvaandu (both stretching from East to West shore), (3) Hoadhadu, (5) Dhashukubaa (both segmental) and separated by, (4) Maadhadu, (A diagonal strip of parallel width). The other four divisions, occupying the southern part of the island, consisted of two eastern and western strips, bisected into four wards, (6) Maalegan and (8) Dhoondigan lying to the East, (7) Miskiymagu and (9) Funaadu to the West.
In time, some changes were made. In the 1950s, the number of wards were reduced to eight, with the village of Dhashukubaa being merged with Miskiymagu. Since then, no changes were made though the increase in population of some wards has put pressure on the neighboring areas, resulting in the extension of some wards with time, and some claims out of the traditional boundaries. An example of such a case is that of the Hoadhadu ward. The northerly extension of the settlements of Hoadhadu ward by time led to the land from eastern strip of Dhiguvaandu and Dhadimagu wards being claimed by the village. A similar case occurred in the Funaadu-Dhoondigan boundaries to the south of the island. However, no formal changes have been made in any of the cases and area claims of different views exist in modern times. The officially used maps and government sources as well do not portray any significant changes to the traditional boundaries.
Taking into consideration the geography of Fuvahmulah along with its size and population, the 8 wards of the island are officially considered to be administrative divisions which act as the replacement for islands in other atolls. In the past, a chief ('Katheeb') was appointed in charge of the day-to-day affairs of each ward of the island as was done for the remote islands of the other atolls. With the introduction of local government policy in the Maldives, the Decentralization Act of 2010 passed by the People's majlis specifically states that in the case of Fuvahmulah an island council has to be elected for each ward of the island. So like the islands of other atolls across the country, the wards of the island act as separate constituencies. From February 2011 onwards the councils have started functioning.
Each ward of Fuvahmulah has its own distinctive features. The largest division of the island is Dhadimagu while the most populous ward of the island is Dhoondigan.
Dhadimagu.
This is the largest division of the island, located on the north-west of the island. A centre of learning as well as an important location for the island's economy. Throughout history, scholars and famous personalities came into being from this district housing many of the historical sites and landmarks of the island. The number of 'Hafiz's from this district outnumber that of any other district in Fuvahmulah.
Dhiguvaandu.
Located just after Dhadimagu, this is one of the largest districts in Fuvahmulah. Apart from Dhadimagu, the district also share borders with Hoadhadu and Maadhadu.
Many residents of Dhiguvaandu rely on white-collar jobs for their income. Retail business is a main source of income as well. The most prominent feature of this district is the "Chas bin" (an area of wetland) associated with the Dhadimagi-Kilhi. Large amounts of taro fields can be found in the wetland area. Vast plantings of areca nut can be found in the district. Mango and breadfruit can be found in reasonable quantities. Almost every house in the district has a mango tree.
Hoadhadu.
Hoadhadu used to be the smallest district in Fuvahmulah, nearly the same size as Maadhadu. During the late 20th century, the increase in population of the district led to pressure on land in the neighbouring areas. This led to a northern extension of the village, resulting in land from Dhadimagu and Diguvaandu wards being claimed to the village. Though this has resulted in a change of the believed-to-be areas in a disputed state, no formal changes have been made and area claims of different views exist.
Hoadhadu is the first district in Fuvahmulah to have accepted Islam. The smaller size of the village with fewer people during the time of conversion may be the main reason for the village being the first district to be converted. What is clear from historical sources is that smaller districts of Fuvahmulah converted first and the larger districts last. Hoadhadu is a remarkable ward in Fuvahmulah. Historically, many residents of Hoadhadu depended on fishing as the primary source of income, although today retail business along with white collar jobs have diminished the dependency on fishing. One of the traditional harbours of Fuvahmulah, "Anbule Athiri" is located within Hoadhadu which explains the district's continued dependency on fishing.
Maadhadu.
With changes over time, this is the smallest district in Fuvahmulah. Located in the center of the island, this district houses the strategically most important buildings on the island. This district shares borders with Dhiguvaandu, Hoadhadu, Maalegan and Miskiymagu.
Maalegan.
This village stretches along the island fringe facing the Northeast. With some of the most significant features of the island this district shares borders with Maadhadu, Miskimmagu, Funaadu and Dhoondigan.
Miskiymagu.
The former Dashukubaa village was merged with Miskiymagu. This village has merged with neighboring Funaadu on its southern end and Maadhadu on its northern end. The village also shares borders with Maalegan ward towards the north-east of the village.
Funaadu.
This is the southernmost and one of the largest wards in Fuvahmulah. This district houses a center of learning.
Dhoondigan.
This is the most populous district and by area the second largest division of the island. This village lies in the southeastern corner of the island. It has merged with Maalegan on its northern end and Funaadu to the West. Being a center of learning as well as an important location for all islanders as it houses the island harbour, and a number of historical landmarks.
Demography.
The high rate of fertility has resulted in overpopulation. With more than 13000 inhabitants, the availability of land for market gardening is steadily diminishing.
The most updated population figure for the island is available on the Ministry of Atolls Development website. This gives a sex ratio of 0.88.
Services.
Communications.
Dhiraagu is the only landline telephone communication service provider on the island, as well as in the entire country. However, Ooredoo along with Dhiraagu provides mobile communication services on the island.
The Dhiraagu communications antenna, located in the premises of Dhiraagu Fuvahmulah Operations Center, stands 400 feet (121 meters) tall. It connects Gaafu Alif Atoll, Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll and Fuvahmulah to the rest of the nation.
Apart from Dhiraagu, Focus Infocom Private Limited provides internet services on the island.
Transport.
Formerly there were many bicycles on Fuvahmulah, an ideal mode of transportation on the flat, large island. Presently there are a large number of motorcycles. The construction of Fuvahmulah Harbour has led to a boost in the number of vehicles – notably motor cycles – on the island. This has increased road accidents, many of them fatal. The poorly constructed roads have indirectly contributed to road accidents. Finivaa Magu, the main road running from north to south of the island, along with the other roads are not paved. The only partly paved road is the Mohamed Jamaaludeen Naibu Thutthu Magu. This road is still under construction. When completed this road will be the longest road on the island, running from the harbor and connecting all 8 districts.
An airstrip is functional on the southeastern side of the island since 11 November 2011. Currently, there two scheduled flights every day to Malé from Fuvahmulah and from Malé to Fuvahmulah Airport.
Healthcare.
The first Health Centre officially started its services on 12 May 1973. Even though the center was fully owned by the government, it did not have its own building, so the center operated in a private house. A separate building for the Health Center was constructed and the services began in the new building on 24 March 1988. As the population of the island increased significantly, and due to the isolation of the island, government upgraded the Health Center to a Hospital on 11 June 2001.
Education.
Fuvahmulah is served by 10 schools. Consisting of 6 pre-schools, 3 primary schools and a secondary school. Gn. Atoll Education Centre, the only higher secondary school serving the island, is the largest education center on the island. Inaugurated on 20 April 1982, it currently serves more than 6080 people.
students. Fuvahmulaku School (FS) which was owned and operated by the citizens of Dūndigan, is one of the three primary schools on the island. Located in Dūndigan, it serves the south west part of the island. Government assumed full control over the school on 1 March 1992. Madharusathu-Sheik Mohammed Jamaaluddeen (MJM), opened on 3 November 1992. It serves the north-west part of the island. The school was built by the people of Dhadimago and Dhiguvaado. This is also a primary school. There is another primary school on the island, it is Hafiz Ahmed School (usually referred as HAS) which was opened on 22 April 2004. It currently serves more than 500 students.
Law enforcement and security UN.
Historically the island was and still is, considered as a peaceful island with low crime rates. However the crime rate has gone up, especially with regards to drugs. A regional branch of the Maldives Police Service was established on the island on 7 October 1996. Initially, the Police and the Armed Forces of the Maldives were the same, known as the National Security Service. The main objective of the Fuvahmulaku Police Station is to maintain peace and stability across the atoll. They carry out investigations into crimes and public complaints fairly and deliver justice to the locals of the atoll. The station also helps other government authorities in fighting and preventing crime. The station is commanded by a Sub Inspector of the police.
The appearance of the NSS (National Security Service) means that the armed forces of the Maldives established themselves on the island. However the police was separated from the armed forces (MNDF) in 2006. MNDF still operates on the island, but separate from the police. They are mostly active in the area of Fire and Rescue, along with military duties. The Defense Institute for Training and Education, a part of MNDF occasionally conducts training programs for new recruits on the island.
Notable figures.
Being home to the most number of Hafizs in the Maldives throughout known history, Fuvahmulah has produced many great scholars. Many figures from Fuvahmulah have been leaders in politics, religion and in business since early times. One such figure was the Independence Hero of Maldives, former President Ibrahim Nasir. Nasir was born in Fuvahmulah and the early childhood days of Nasir were spent in Fuvahmulah until his family moved to Malé.
Another notable figure from Fuvahmulah was the Maldivian cleric and poet Mohammad Jamaaluddeen, known as Naibu-Thutthu. He wrote several raivaru (Maldive couplets) books. These raivarus are taught and examined in schools, as part of Dhivehi language module. Not only was he good at literature, but was also considered to be the most knowledgeable in Islamic jurisprudence (Fiqh) during his time and was appointed as chief justice.
The former Vice President of the Maldives, Dr. Mohamed Jameel Ahmed is from Fuvahmulah and is the first Vice President of the country from outside the capital Male. Former Chief Justice and the current President of the Islamic Fiqh Academy, Ustaz Mohamed Rasheed Ibrahim is also from Fuvahmulah. He also served as the president of the Supreme Council for Islamic Affairs. Dr.Mohamed Zahir Hussain, the current Chancellor of the Maldives National University, founder of the daily newspaper Haveeru and former Minister of Education as well as Minister of Youth and Sports is also a native Fuvahmulah citizen. Among other notables from the island include the current Minister of Youth and Sports, Mr. Mohamed Maleeh Jamal, former Minister of Health, Dr. Ahmed Jamsheed Mohamed, former Minister of Housing and Urban Development, Mr. Ibrahim Rafeeq, former Governor of the Maldives Monetary Authority and Chairman of the Board of MMA, Dr. Fazeel Najeeb, former Chairman of the Maldives Civil Service Commission, Mohamed Fahmy Hassan and former Editor in Chief of Haveeru Daily and Haveeru Online, Dr. Ali Rafeeq.
Abdul Majeed Mahir, who served key positions in Nasir administration and father of former Minister of Defence, Ameen Faisal and former Maldivian High Commissioner to the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, Dr. Farahanaz Faisal, is also from Fuvahmulah. He was born in Fuvahmulah, to Funaadu Ganduvaru Aisha Didi of Fuvahmulah and Velaanaagey Mohamed Didi (paternal grandfather of President Nasir) of Male, Maldives who was in exile in Fuvahmulah.
Moreover, the paternal grandmother of former President Mohamed Nasheed is also from Fuvahmulah.
The Isdhoo dynasty which reigned the Maldives from 1692–1704 also has its roots in Fuvahmulah. The father of Sultan Ali VII, Shah Bandar Kilege, was from Fuvahmulah and he settled in Isdhoo of Haddhunmathi Atoll, thus resulting in the dynasty being named after Isdhoo. Sultan Ibrahim Muzhiruddin of Isdhoo dynasty was deposed and exiled to Fuvahmulah by his cousin Sultan Muhammad Imaduddin II of Dhiyamigili dynasty in 1704. His descendants still live in Fuvahmulah and the neighboring atolls of Addu and Huvadhu. Former President Maumoon Abdul Gayoom is among the descendants of Sultan Muzhiruddin through his son Mulaku Muhammad Manikfan and a lady from Fuvahmulah according to researchers.
In 1774, Sultan Muhammed Ghiya'as ud-din of Dhiyamigili Dynasty was deposed while he was on the Hajj pilgrimage and when he returned he was murdered by drowning and his son Abdullah (later Ibrahim Faamuladeyri Kilegefaanu) was banished to Fuvahmulah. Abdullah or his direct descendants never challenged the authority of the Huraagey sultans and continued to live in Fuvahmulah, where their line remains to this day. It is from Fuvahmulah that the branches of Dhiyamigili dynasty in Addu and Huvadhu Atolls too originated. Thus, the many educated figures and intellectuals from this lineage in Addu and Huvadhu Atolls, who later came up to be leaders in politics and different other fields too have their roots in Fuvahmulah. To name some, former Minister of Islamic Affairs Dr. Abdul Majeed Abdul Bari, former Chief Justice Abdulla Saeed, former Attorney General Dr. Mohamed Munavvar, former Minister of Economic Development as well as Minister of Civil Aviation Dr. Mahmood Razi, former Minister of Education Dr. Mustafa Lutfi, former Minister of Transport and Communication Dr. Ahmed Shamheed, former Minister of Justice and Speaker of Parliament Mr. Ahmed Zahir, former Minister of Fisheries and Agriculture Dr. Ibrahim Didi, former Attorney General Uz. Husnu Al Suood, Former Minister of Environment as well as Minister of Health and Gender, Dr Mariyam Shakeela; the current Minister of State for Islamic Affairs Sheikh Mohamed Didi, the current MP for Gemanafushi constituency and President of the Football Association of Maldives Ilham Ahmed, current MP for Galolhu-South constituency Ahmed Mahloof and many other, or most of the intellectuals in the country have their roots in Fuvahmulah.
Edhuru Hassan Naib Ranahamaadhi Thakurufan, the father of Chief Justice Mohamed Shamsuddin (Bodu Fandiyaaru Thakurufan) is also from Fuvahmulah. Thus, the Bodu Fandiyaaru Thakurufan family, which is considered by many authors to be the most knowledgeable family in the Maldives, along with the eight Qazis (Chief Justice) and the many number of Ministers and intellectuals to have served the country from this family also have their roots in Fuvahmulah. Sultan Mohamed IV (Devvadu Rasgefaanu) is the grandson of Bodu Fandiyaaru Thakurufan and thus he too has his roots in Fuvahmulah.