How to Make a Table
To make a table, start by purchasing sheets of wood, like pine or poplar. Then, cut the wood to size and assemble the table top using tongue and groove planking, glue, and clamps. After you've assembled the top, screw or glue 4 strips of wood around the bottom of the table to make the under table. Next, cut 4 table legs that are all the same size. Finally, screw the legs to the corners on the inside of the under table to finish the table.
View pictures of tables to figure out what kind of table to make. There are a lot of different types of tables in the world, so take some time to consider you want. Go online and look up images of tables, noting the style of each one. Also, get ideas from furniture catalogues and woodworking magazines. Base your choice on your needs, such as what you want to use the table for and how much space you have available for it. For instance, you may desire a large, rustic kitchen table. You might also make a short coffee table or an elegant bedroom end table. Sketch out a rough design of your table on paper. Use a pencil and a ruler to create your ideal table. Don't worry about the dimensions at first. Instead, think about how you want the finished table to look. Select what features you want, then settle on a size. Once you have a rough design, pencil in the dimensions. Keep in mind that lumber sizes listed at stores are ⁄ 2 in (1.3 cm) smaller than the actual lumber, so add an extra ⁄ 2 in (1.3 cm) to all of your estimates. Your dimensions will vary depending on the kind of table you construct. A dining table has different dimensions than a bedside table. Estimate how much wood you will need. Break your table down into its basic components. The simplest table has a tabletop and legs connected by apron pieces. If you plan on adding extra features to your table, you will need to get lumber for those sections as well. For example, try making a table with 3 2 in × 12 in (5.1 cm × 30.5 cm) tabletop boards cut 61 in (150 cm) long, 4 4 in × 4 in (10 cm × 10 cm) legs cut 28 ⁄ 2 in (72 cm) long, 2 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) apron boards cut 18 ⁄ 4 in (48 cm) long, and 2 2 in × 12 in (5.1 cm × 30.5 cm) more apron boards cut 49 in (120 cm) long. Get extra lumber or wood for any additional features you add to your table. For instance, you can add rails for extra stability or add boards to extend the tabletop. Select an inexpensive but sturdy wood such as pine for a lasting table. Pine isn't the toughest wood, but it is a beginner-friendly choice. You can still use it to create tables that last decades. Some common hardwoods, including maple and cherry, are also suitable choices for sturdy tables. Look for other inexpensive types of wood. Construction-grade douglas fir can be used to make tables. Woods like poplar make for good furniture but are tougher to stain properly. For outdoor projects, choose redwood, cypress, or a treated wood like pressure-treated pine. Purchase the wood and and have it cut. Once you know what you need, visit a home improvement store to purchase it. Most stores will cut the wood for you, so ask them to take care of it. Save yourself some work so you can begin constructing the table right away. You can cut the wood yourself if you have a workbench, some clamps, and a circular saw or handsaw. Always wear polycarbonate safety glasses and a respirator mask when operating a saw. Lay the tabletop planks side by side on a flat surface. Try to pick a surface that is as flat as possible so your tabletop is even as well. Select a side on each board to serve as the top part of your table. Position each board so this side is facedown. Arrange the boards into the tabletop you sketched in your plan. When making large tables, lay the boards on the floor. You may want to lay down a sheet or tarp first so that the wood doesn't get scratched. Planking is when you lay boards together. The easiest way to join the boards to the rest of the table this way is through tongue and groove planking, but you can also use a dowel to create a butt joint if you know how to do that. Another way to make the tabletop is with a single sheet of wood. This can be a little more expensive and difficult due to the weight of the wood. To save money, consider using hardwood veneer construction plywood. Drill pocket holes from the outer boards to the inner board. Drilling the holes before adding screws prevents the boards from cracking. To create the holes, measure along the sides of the center board. Mark it about every 7 in (18 cm). You will need to use a very long drill bit, about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, called a pocket hole drill bit. Drill at an angle down through the side boards and into the side of the center board every 7 in (18 cm). To make drilling easy, use a pocket hole jig. You set the jig's depth, then use it to drill the perfect holes. It reduces the chances of drilling all the way through the wood. You will have a much easier time securing the boards if you clamp them together first. This isn't the only way to connect boards. You can also assemble the legs and aprons first. Attach the boards directly to the aprons with pocket holes. Attach the boards together with screws. Place 2 ⁄ 2  in (6.4 cm) pocket hole screws in each of the holes you drilled. Use a power drill to push the screws all the way into the pocket holes. They won't cut into the wood, leaving you with a very secure tabletop. Trace the position of the aprons on the table’s underside. The aprons attach to the tabletop and legs, preventing them from moving. From the edges of the tabletop, measure in about 1 in (2.5 cm). Then, draw a line in pencil to indicate where the aprons will connect to the tabletop. Having the 1 in (2.5 cm) margin prevents the aprons from sticking out past the edge of the table. This leaves a little more leg room and makes your table look better overall. If you haven't cut the aprons yet, use the tabletop length and width measurements to create them. Clamp and glue the aprons to the tabletop. Set the aprons down on the lines you traced. You will have 2 shorter aprons along the table's width and 2 longer aprons for the table's length. Spread a solid, even coating of wood glue underneath the aprons to secure them to the table. Clamp them in place overnight to ensure they stay attached. You may attach these pieces permanently by screwing them to the tabletop. Use a pocket hole jig to secure the wood together with pocket screws. You can also attach the legs to the table first then connect the aprons to the legs using pocket screws. You may then add corner braces to help hold the legs in place. Trim the legs to the size you need them to be. Attaching the legs is often the trickiest part when making the table. A bad leg can make the difference between a sturdy table and a wobbly one. Line the legs up next to each other. Start by measuring each leg, marking its length, and reducing it to the proper size with a saw. Even if you got the wood cut at a store, it may be slightly uneven. You should check before attaching the legs to the table. If you make your own wooden legs, cut the wood roughly with a circular saw or hacksaw. Then, clamp the legs together and cut them all to the same size. Glue the legs to the apron joints. The legs need to be positioned where the aprons connect to one another. Spread wood glue on the underside of the table and the inside portion of the aprons. Then, stand a leg in each corner and clamp it in place. Although you can wait for the glue to dry, this shouldn't be necessary. Keep the legs clamped tightly to ensure they don't come loose while you screw them in place. Drill pilot holes into the aprons and legs. The screws need to be positioned where the center of each apron and leg meet. Work from outside the apron. Use a ⁄ 4  in (0.64 cm) drill bit to drill straight into the leg. Repeat this with the apron on the other side of the leg. You should have 8 holes total when you're done. If you want rails on your table, the process is a little more complicated. You need to use a circular saw to create notches a little less than halfway through each leg. Each leg will need 2 notches, 1 on each side where the rails will attach. Fasten the legs to the apron with fastening screws. Use a pair of ⁄ 4  in (0.64 cm) lag screws for each leg. Attach the screws through the apron and into the leg. Use a ratchet to twist the screws into the table's legs. You should avoid trying to drill the lag screws in place. They can be very tough and may break. Make sure the legs are level and at a right angle to the tabletop before screwing them in place. Wait until any glue you used is fully dry. Read the manufacturer's instructions on the wood glue to see how long you need to wait. If you let the table sit overnight, you can be sure the glue has dried. Usually you can flip it over sooner than this. Turn the table over to see if it is stable. Carefully turn the table over. It can be very heavy! Stand it on a level floor and try to make it wobble. Wobbling is a sign that the legs aren't as perfect as they can be. They may be uneven, so you will need to flip the table and cut them down to size. While you can use a circular saw or hacksaw to even the legs, you may over cut them. Instead, smooth them out gradually using 80-grit sandpaper followed by 220-grit sandpaper. The leg placement may also be a problem. Make sure the legs are flat against the table's underside and aprons. Undo the screws if you need to reposition the legs. Sand the table down with 80-grit sandpaper. This is a coarse-grit sandpaper, so it will rough up your table. It's okay, think of the completed table! Look closely at the table and notice its grain, or the lines in the wood. Go over the entire surface along the grain, including the table's undersides and legs. Use a belt sander to make the job easier. It likely will not leave any lasting marks as long as you pass over the table once. Sanding and staining isn't mandatory. If you like the wood's finish, leave it alone. You may wish to apply only a sealant to protect it from moisture. Use a 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out the table. Go over the table a second time with a fine-grit sandpaper. Make sure you work along the grain again. Lightly sand down any rough spots, preparing them to receive the stainer. Wash off the table to remove debris. Now you have a lot of wood dust on the table along with the regular dust in your environment. Dampen a microfiber cloth or tack cloth in lukewarm water. Wipe down the entire table to remove the dust, then wait for the table to dry off. You may want to vacuum the table first before wiping it off. Use a hose attachment to help remove more dust. Apply a wood staining product with a brush or rag. Put on a pair of rubber gloves, open your stainer, and mix it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Then, dip a foam brush or rag into the stainer. Wipe it all the way along the table's grain without stopping. Cover the entire table before wiping up excess stainer with a rag. You have several stainer options. Oil-based stainers are penetrative and lasting. Water-based stainers are easy to apply and don't absorb evenly. Gel stainers are thick add a lot of color. To ensure the stain sets correctly, consider working on only 1 side of the table at a time. Apply a second coating after the stain begins to dry. Let the stain dry overnight before attempting to add more. Chances are the stain will look a little dull and uneven at first. Stain the table again the same way you did before, then let it dry again. When you return, your table should be all set. Wipe off excess stainer with a rag before it dries. This will ensure you get an even stain that won't turn too dark. 
View pictures of tables to figure out what kind of table to make. Sketch out a rough design of your table on paper. Estimate how much wood you will need. Select an inexpensive but sturdy wood such as pine for a lasting table. Purchase the wood and and have it cut. Lay the tabletop planks side by side on a flat surface. Drill pocket holes from the outer boards to the inner board. Attach the boards together with screws. Trace the position of the aprons on the table’s underside. Clamp and glue the aprons to the tabletop. Trim the legs to the size you need them to be. Glue the legs to the apron joints. Drill pilot holes into the aprons and legs. Fasten the legs to the apron with fastening screws. Wait until any glue you used is fully dry. Turn the table over to see if it is stable. Sand the table down with 80-grit sandpaper. Use a 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out the table. Wash off the table to remove debris. Apply a wood staining product with a brush or rag. Apply a second coating after the stain begins to dry. 