How to Repair Laminate Flooring
Laminate flooring is attractive and easy to install, but it can get scuffed, chipped, or water-damaged over time. If you need to fix minor scratches or chips, purchase a laminate floor repair kit that matches the color of your floor. You'll need to clean the area around the scratch or chip, then fill in the area with the putty or crayon that comes with the kit. For more serious repairs near the edges of the floor, you'll need to remove the baseboards or molding so you can lift out the boards closest to the wall. When you reach the damaged board, take it out and put a replacement board in. Replace the other boards and any baseboards or molding you removed.
Clean the damaged area to remove any dirt from the chip or scratch. Wipe the damaged part of the floor with a clean, damp cloth. Let the floor dry completely before you proceed. This method works for minor chips and scratches that can be repaired with putty or a marker specifically made to repair laminate flooring. For example, if you drop a knife and it leaves a small cut in the floor, you can easily repair the damage with a laminate floor repair kit. Buy a laminate floor repair kit that closely matches the color of your floor. Get laminate floor repair putty for larger chip repairs or a floor repair marker for smaller scratches. Take an extra piece of flooring with you to the home improvement store, if you have one, to find the closest color. You can mix multiple colors of putty together to get a matching color if you can't find one close enough. Disguise small scratches with a floor repair marker. Take off the cap of the marker and carefully color in the scratches. Let the marker dry for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Add more coats of the marker after it dries if the scratch is still visible. Fill in large chips using putty. Scoop out a bit of putty on a putty knife and spread it into the chipped area. Use the putty knife to smooth it out so it's level with the rest of the board, then let it dry for 1 hour. If the chip is particularly deep, then apply several thin coats of the putty until it is even with the floor. Wipe around the area with a clean, dry cloth to remove extra marker or putty. Carefully wipe around the repaired area to remove any marker or filler that got on the undamaged flooring. If you used putty, be sure to do this before it dries. Use a cleaning solvent designed for laminate flooring if you need something stronger. Remove any baseboards, thresholds, or molding from around the area. Start at the side closest to the damaged board or boards. Carefully pry away baseboards and molding from the wall and pry thresholds up from any doorways with a pry bar. This method works when the damaged boards are close enough to the edge of the floor that it is possible to remove a small number of surrounding boards to get to the damaged boards and replace them. Try your best not to damage any of the pieces that you pry away so that you can replace them afterward. Lift out the boards starting with the ones closest to the edge. Insert a pry bar under the boards at their seams and press down on the end of it like a lever to pop the joints loose. Work from the edge where you removed baseboards and molding in towards the site of the damage until you can remove the damaged boards. Set aside the boards that are still good, in the order you removed them, so that you can replace them afterward. Replace the damaged board with a new one. Line up the tongue and groove of the new board the same way as those of the board you removed were lined up. Snap the new piece into position. Save the damaged board so that you can use it for future repairs. For example, if you need to match the color to repair scratches and chips, you can take it with you to the home improvement store when you go looking for the repair kit. Return all the boards you removed to their places. Work in reverse order as when you removed them, starting with the boards that surround the replacement board. Line up the tongues and grooves, then slide or gently tap them back into place with a hammer if there is a lot of friction. If you use a hammer to tap any boards into place, use the damaged board you removed as a buffer between the hammer and the good boards to prevent damaging them. Tack any baseboards, molding, or thresholds back in place. Line up the baseboards, molding, and thresholds in the same order you removed them to reinstall them around the edges of the floor. Gently tack them back into place with baseboard nails and a hammer using the same nails and holes as before. Use new baseboard nails if any of them got damaged when you pried them out earlier on. Draw a cut line in from each corner of the board and a rectangle in the middle. Mark a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) line along a straight edge with a pen or pencil in from each corner of the board diagonally towards the center. Connect the inner ends of the lines with straight lines to make a rectangle that you can cut out from the center of the board. This method works to replace a single damaged board in the middle of your laminate flooring, where it would be too difficult to replace by removing surrounding boards starting from an edge. Drill a relief hole at the ends of each relief cut line. Use a ⁄ 8  in (0.95 cm) drill bit to make a relief hole at the inner ends of the lines you marked for the cut lines. Make another set of holes ⁄ 4  in (0.64 cm) in from the outer ends of the relief lines. Make 8 relief holes in total so that you can cut in 2 phases—1 to remove the center section and 1 to remove the sides. Cut out the center of the board with a circular saw. Set the depth of the saw a bit deeper than the depth of the flooring. Lift the blade guard and plunge the saw into the board, starting at 1 of the inner relief holes. Cut from hole to hole in a rectangular pattern to connect the inner section of relief holes you made and remove the center section. You will be left with the edges of the damaged board still connected to the good boards around them. Cut from the center to the outside of the relief holes. Cut with your circular saw from the middle diagonally out along the remaining cut lines. Stop when you reach the relief holes. This will separate the remaining edges of the board at the corners so you can remove them. Remove the edge pieces from the surrounding boards. Pry up each side where it is connected to a surrounding board with your hands or pliers if they are stuck. Discard these pieces. If there is any glue on the tongues of surrounding boards, then scrape it off with a flathead screwdriver before installing the replacement board. Remove the grooves from your replacement board. Your replacement board will have 2 tongues and 2 grooves. Carefully cut off the tongues and bottom lips of the grooves with a utility knife so that you will be able to drop the new board into place. To cut off the bottom lips of the grooves, sick the blade of the knife inside the grooves and cut them off from the inside. Make several passes with the utility knife to score the parts you are cutting off, then snap them off with pliers. Apply floor glue to the edges of the replacement board. Put a bead of floor glue along the edges where you cut off the tongues and underneath the top half of the grooves where you cut off the bottom lips. You can get floor glue at a home improvement center or flooring store if you don't have any. Fit the board into place. Match the top half of the grooves on your new board with the tongues on the surrounding boards. The board will now fall into place because you removed the tongues from the new board. If the board is not fitting right, then use your utility knife to shave off any rough parts until it drops nicely into place. Use a damp cloth to remove any excess glue. Wipe away any glue that squeezes out of the seams. Use a damp cloth so that you don't spread it around on the surrounding boards. Keep the cloth handy so you can wipe again after you weigh down the board if any more glue squeezes out. Weigh down the repaired area for 24 hours. Stack some heavy books or another heavy object on top of the newly-fitted board to help the seams adhere together. Keep the weight on the board for 24 hours to ensure the glue is completely dry. Check if any more glue squeezed out of the seams after you placed weight on the board, and wipe it away with a damp cloth. If you use something that could scratch the laminate, like a brick, place a towel underneath to protect it. 
Clean the damaged area to remove any dirt from the chip or scratch. Buy a laminate floor repair kit that closely matches the color of your floor. Disguise small scratches with a floor repair marker. Fill in large chips using putty. Wipe around the area with a clean, dry cloth to remove extra marker or putty. Remove any baseboards, thresholds, or molding from around the area. Lift out the boards starting with the ones closest to the edge. Replace the damaged board with a new one. Return all the boards you removed to their places. Tack any baseboards, molding, or thresholds back in place. Draw a cut line in from each corner of the board and a rectangle in the middle. Drill a relief hole at the ends of each relief cut line. Cut out the center of the board with a circular saw. Cut from the center to the outside of the relief holes. Remove the edge pieces from the surrounding boards. Remove the grooves from your replacement board. Apply floor glue to the edges of the replacement board. Fit the board into place. Use a damp cloth to remove any excess glue. Weigh down the repaired area for 24 hours. 