page_title: Pattern (sewing)
section_title: Patterns for commercial clothing manufacture
hierarchical_section_title: Pattern (sewing) / Patterns for commercial clothing manufacture
caption_attribution_description: For documentary purposes the German Federal Archive often retained the original image captions, which may be erroneous, biased, obsolete or politically extreme. Deutsch: ADN-ZB-Sindermann-10.3.1987-pra-Rostock: Zuschnitt per Mikroelektronik-Mit Hilfe eines CAD-CAM-Systems erfolgen im VEB Jugendsmode Rostock alle wesentlichen Arbeitsschritte von der Herstellung des Schnittbildes bis zum Zuschnitt der Stoffe. Bei der Schnittbildherstellung am Bildschirm wird die materialökonomischste Variante gesucht. - siehe auch 1987-0310-12, 13 und 10N - English: Cut by microelectronics—At Rostock Childrens' Fashion (VEB) all substantial work proceedures take place with assistance of a CAD CAM system, from the production of the pattern layout [marker] to the cutting of the cloth. During the pattern layout at the display the most economic use of material is sought.
context_page_description: In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes condensed to the one-word Patternmaking, but it can also be written patternmaking or pattern cutting.
  A sloper pattern or block pattern is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed. The process of changing the size of a finished pattern is called grading.
  Several companies, like Butterick and Simplicity, specialize in selling pre-graded patterns directly to consumers who will sew the patterns at home. Commercial clothing manufacturers make their own patterns in-house as part of their design and production process, usually employing at least one specialized patternmaker. In bespoke clothing, slopers and patterns must be developed for each client, while for commercial production, patterns will be made to fit several standard body sizes.
context_section_description: The making of industrial patterns begins with an existing block pattern that most closely resembles the designer's vision. Patterns are cut of oak tag (manila folder) paper, punched with a hole and stored by hanging with a special hook. The pattern is first checked for accuracy, then it is cut out of sample fabrics and the resulting garment is fit-tested. Once the pattern meets the designer's approval, a small production run of selling samples is made and the style is presented to buyers in wholesale markets. If the style has demonstrated sales potential, the pattern is graded for sizes, usually by computer with an apparel industry specific CAD program. Following grading, the pattern must be vetted; the accuracy of each size and the direct comparison in laying seam lines is done. After these steps have been followed and any errors corrected, the pattern is approved for production. When the manufacturing company is ready to manufacture the style, all of the sizes of each given pattern piece are arranged into a marker, usually by computer. A marker is an arrangement of all of the pattern pieces over the area of the fabric to be cut that minimizes fabric waste while maintaining the desired grainlines. It's sort of like a pattern of patterns from which all pieces will be cut. The marker is then laid on top of the layers of fabric and cut. Commercial markers often include multiple sets of patterns for popular sizes. For example: one set of size Small, two sets of size Medium and one set of size Large. Once the style has been sold and delivered to stores – and if it proves to be quite popular – the pattern of this style will itself become a block, with subsequent generations of patterns developed from it.
caption: Marker-making by computer
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