`  In Istanbul there are a few Kaymak paradises, one of them is between Beşiktaş and Ortaköy. The real Kaymak paradise is Afyon(karahisar) though. You should visit the İkbal Restaurant (not the huge road-side Panayır/funfair of fast food with the same name, the traditional restaurant in the town center) and after enjoying some authentic Turkish food (in this restaurant they only serve veal, no mutton, and they also beat people who dare use the word ``kebap`` -) please give yourself a treat of Kaymaklı Ekmek Kadayıfı.  If you still not have cholesterol, diabetes and/or weight problems you will repeat the huge portion and will forget the dessert that you now like. (What was it called, Baklava, Baklawa, Pakhlava? -)    As regards avantgarde Turkish dessert options, IMO, Chocolate Baklava is not a less futuristic fantasy than the ``Hamsili Baklava`` that they invented in the Black Sea region. Although I am more compromising on ``Vişneli Ekmek Kadayıfı`` (How to translate this for God's sake? -) introduced by İkbal -the franchise option- but also served by the conventional restaurant in Afyon.   `