Why Heritage Techniques Still Matter in Shoemaking
A beginner's guide to a well-made pair of shoes.
By Scott Christian
Long before the days of mass manufacturing, clothes and shoes were built to last. They had to be: Without factories stamping out fast fashion, there was no plan B if your wardrobe fell apart too quickly. Today, we call that old-fashioned method "heritage techniques." And while some might see them as needlessly slow and expensive, they still matter—especially when it comes to shoes. Here's why.
High Quality Leather
You can use as many high-end manufacturing techniques as you want for shoes, but without high quality leather, it's all meaningless. Good leather offers sturdiness and protection, breathability, and a beautiful patina (which will only get better with age). High quality leather starts first with the hide, which has to be free of imperfections, and can come from a variety of sources—including cowhide, cordovan and box calf—and a variety of grains—like smooth, full, and pebble. Then comes the tanning process, which both softens the leather and gives it its durability. And finally the finishing, where it's dyed and where oils and fats are added to give it its distinctive look and scent.
A Perfect Last for a Perfectly Shaped Shoe
A high quality men's shoe can only be made using a perfectly shaped last. This is a model of the foot made from wood that will give the shoe its shape. A good last will take into account the heel, instep, balls of the foot, and how the heel height will change based on the rolling motion of the foot. It's something that can't be achieved through machine manufacturing or computerized wizardry. Wooden lasts take into account the subtleties of the human foot, and the result is a far better and more comfortable shoe.
Cutting and Stamping
This is the point where the individual pieces of leather are cut to form the shoe. It's an extremely important phase of construction, as badly cut pieces will result in poorly shaped and uncomfortable—not to mention unattractive—shoes. The leather pieces are cut and stamped from a specific template to form whatever type of shoe—Oxfords, loafers, etc. Then the edges of the shaft pieces (the rear pieces that form the opening) are thinned to make it easier for each of the other pieces to be attached. With the leather properly cut and stamped, there won't be any misshapen areas once the shoes are assembled.
Stitching the Uppers
The upper is basically the entire part of the shoe that covers the top of the foot. With so many different pieces comprising the upper, it's essential to get the assembly of it right. To do this, the pieces are initially attached to each other around the lasts with dots of glue to keep from them slipping out of place. After that, the pieces are all stitched together. Just as with clothes, quality stitching, whether by hand or by machine, is essential for a good pair of shoes. Regardless of the quality of leather, how well-shaped the lasts are, or of how well the pieces were cut, if the stitching isn't up to par, the shoes will fall apart.
Sewing the Lining
The final process before the uppers are attached to the sole is to sew in the lining. This is the material inside the shoe that comes into contact with the foot. A good lining is important because it covers the inside seams, and also help protect the upper from moisture, thus lengthening the lifespan of the shoe. The best material to use for the lining is a soft, thin leather, as it will last longer, conform to the shape of the foot, and feel the softest. A leather lining is also breathable, so it will help regulate temperature.
Single or Double Layer Sole
With a high-end shoe, the sole will often be made of leather. Leather provides a much more refined and elegant look as opposed to rubber or even crepe. In the case of a dress shoe, like an Oxford, the sole is usually a single layer. With the lower profile, it looks sleeker, although it is more susceptible to the elements. For a sole that is warmer and more protective, a double layer of leather is used. This is a sole more often found on boots or sturdier English Oxfords, where the shoes need to stand up to harsher conditions.
The Shank and the Filler Layer
To help add structure to the sole of the shoe, a strip of metal called the shank is inserted between the outsole and the insole, from the heel to about the widest part of the shoe. At this point, the inner surface of the shoe is uneven, so a filler layer, usually made of cork, is inserted to create a smooth surface upon which to mount the insole. For a shoe to be comfortable and durable, especially while walking, a properly positioned shank and filler layer are key.
The Goodyear Welt
If you've ever shopped for high-end shoes, then Goodyear welt is likely a term you've heard a lot. Goodyear welting is the oldest and most labor-intensive form of welting, but it's also the most durable (and most commonly used on high-end English and American shoes). The welt is the strip of leather that's stitched to the upper and the insole of the shoe, and runs along the perimeter of the outsole. Basically, it's a two-level stitching process, where the welt, upper and insole rib are attached with one stitch, and the welt and the outsole are attached with another. Aside from dramatically increased durability, Goodyear-welted shoes are also easier to resole since the stitched welt acts as a buffer between the insole and the outsole.
The Blake Stitch
This is a stitching process that's most commonly found on high-end Italian shoes. It is where the upper is directly stitched to the sole rather than using a welt. The result is that the shoes are lighter and appear less bulky, but with the disadvantage that, because there is no welt, the shoes can potentially wear out quicker. Also, Blake stitched shoes are harder for cobblers to repair. It is, however, still highly preferable to cementing, which is where the sole is attached to the upper via an adhesive. Cementing is what is used on cheaper shoes and, not only does it wear out more quickly, the shoes also can't be repaired. When it comes to attaching the sole, stitching is what will ensure both quality and durability.
Final Touches
Once the shoe is assembled, there are a number of final touches needed to make it store-ready. Seam holes in the leather are either filled in or, if the shoe is a brogue, incorporated into the broguing. The outsole and the edge of the heel are then abraded to remove any excess material, while the visible portion of the welt is decorated, and the double seam is compacted. The heel and tip of the sole are also dyed, and a half-insole with the brand's logo is inserted into the shoe. The shoes are then polished and laced. It may seem like a lot of work to make one pair of shoes, but considering the quality of the final product, heritage shoemaking techniques are certainly worth it.