Planting Containers In June
Waiting to plant seasonal containers until the soil and night temperatures warm up in our zone is an idea of considerable merit. For those of you that read this journal regularly, you already know my point of view. Here me out, again. If you are a client, you have heard me talk about how the best place for tropical plants in May is a greenhouse. Tropical plants that hail from tropical environments have evolved to not only withstand a tropical climate, they thrive in it. Michigan is anything but tropical. Just a week ago we were having night temperatures in the mid to low 50’s. Tropical plants do not like nor are they likely to adapt to our brisk spring weather. Our spring is just about the equivalent of winter weather to an alocasia, or a solenia begonia in May. May is when gardeners want to plant their containers, but June is better. Tropical plants that go into the ground in anticipation of better weather to come will sulk, be set back, or refuse to grow. I shudder, and have to avert my eyes when I see those huddled masses of fibrous begonias bedded out in commercial settings the first freezing week of May. I am a proponent of planting containers, if only a few key containers, for spring – in an effort to stave off that longing for a summer planting until the time is right. The summer solstice, or longest day of the year, in the northern hemisphere is June 21. Planting summer containers in June helps make a success of all of the work of planting those containers.
Nothing tells a story more succinctly and simply than a picture. These boxes, as well as all the rest of this client’s containers, were planted on June 2. In 28 days, all of these heat loving plants have grown exponentially. Calocasis, begonias of several types, caladiums and licorice like warm soil, and warm temperatures. A good bit of the pleasure of tending containers comes from a collection of plants that are healthy, happy, and growing. In the healthy, happy and growing department, a lot of credit goes to my client Fred P. He is in charge of the watering of all of their container plantings. His watering skill is obvious. The only condition under which begonias fail to thrive is too heavy watering hand. He waters the solenia begonias only when they are truly dry. Their thick succulent stems will rot with too much water. He tells me it takes all of his willpower to water each plant in this series of boxes individually, but his restraint has paid off. He tell me that he precision waters of of their containers. He never blankets any of his containers with water. The gorgeous state of all of his container plants is a sure sign of his attention to the individual needs of his seasonal plants. These planters look sensational. It is my opinion that when he waters, he focuses only on that task at hand, and nothing else. Another word for that is relaxation. Another concept for this is that growing plants is good for people. A June planting, a master waterer, and some warm soil and heat-voila.
No plant hates the cold and windy weather more than tomatoes. The size and health of these plants makes it obvious the conditions for growth were right. The basil looks terrific. These tomatoes were 18″ tall when we planted them. The basil were maybe 4″ tall. Summery conditions have enabled them to grow.
The Black and Blue salvia in the centers of these two boxes grow to 40″ tall, and need nearly a season’s worth of time to get to their peak. But I see some signs of early blooms. Happy salvia. As long as the solenia begonias are not over watered, they will bloom profusely into the fall.
New Guinea impatiens are as notoriously adverse to cold weather as are calocasias. Unsurprisingly, New Guinea impatiens are native to New Guinea – the second largest island in the world which is located the the southwest Pacific Ocean. Needless to say, New Guinea is a tropical place. These New Guinea natives look incredibly happy here. Planted green in 4″ pots, they have grown an incredible amount in 28 days, and are now blooming profusely.
There are so many types of gardening-too many to list. To name a few: There are those growers of dwarf conifers, and those gardeners who grow vegetables, and those farmers who grow cut flowers or broom corn. Those people for whom a perennial garden is a continuing source of interest and delight rub shoulders with those gardeners who grow bananas, palms and herbs. Do not forget those who plant trees, or roses, and those who collect cultivars of hydrangeas. Those who plant seasonal containers, and those who plant shade or wildflower gardens have the same issues as those who grow dahlias, rock garden plants or meadow gardens. The common thread? Plants are very specific about what they need. A gardener who is alerted to and caters to the requirements of the plants will be a successful gardener.
A June planting was an optimal time to plant this particular collection of plants. The plants have responded in kind to that early summer date. Even the view from the outside is a treat.
I am sure you remember the astonishingly cold and lengthy winter past. The fallout from that winter was severe. So many plants damaged, or killed outright. Trying to catch up to the repair and replacement, given that it was well into April before anyone could work the ground, has been a daunting task. That cold winter has proved to be a gift that is still giving. Our summer has been remarkably, uncharacteristically, unsettlingly cool. I have no complaints about the fact that Buck and I were able to have dinner outdoors every day in July. The temperatures come 7:30 pm were neither cold nor hot-just perfectly comfortable. But for 2 hots days, and a short spell with no rain, the summer has been a dream come true for people and landscapes alike. The last week we have had driving rains and downright cold temperatures. The seasonal plants are not so happy with this turn of events.
The seasonal flowers in containers have been remarkably good, although undersized for this time of year. Tropical/seasonal/annual plants love the heat-as in hot. What is too uncomfortably warm a temperature for me is much to the liking of most tropical plants that are native to much warmer climates than ours. The boxes on the roof at Detroit Garden Works need to be planted with plants that luxuriate in high temperatures. It is a hot and windy spot, up there. My choice of a focal plant this year-Ruellia Britoniana, commonly known as Mexican petunia. “When grown under hot sunny conditions the foliage assumes a metallic bluish cast that creates the perfect backdrop for the the scores of vibrant blue flowers that appear with the onslaught of hot summer weather. The blossoms are trumpet shaped and about 1.5-2 in (3.8-5.1 cm) in diameter and are borne at the tips of the stems. Varieties with white, pink, and many shades of blue are available, as are dwarf versions that form clumps that are about 8-12 in (20.3-25.4 cm) in height. Mexican petunia is very showy when in full bloom due to the clouds of admiring butterflies that swarm about the plants.” The aforementioned is taken word for word from the floridata website. I had in my mind’s eye a hedge of ruellia 3′ tall and loaded with purple flowers-luxuriating in the heat.
I asked George at Telly’s Greenhouse if he had ruellia in 4″ pots. He did, although the plants were small. He wanted me to leave them in his greenhouse-his hot house-for 3 weeks. They would grow faster for him in his hothouse than they would on my chilly roof. I was sure we would eventually get hot weather, so I delayed planting the roof until the beginning of July. I under planted the ruellia with several colors of angelonia. “Angelonia is an exceptional summer bedding plant that can be relied upon for dependable garden performance through the hottest summer weather”-this quote from Dan Gill. For a little contrast in color and texture, a dwarf sweet potato vine every so often, to trail. My roof garden is a perfect location for plants that thrives in high heat. As for the heat, I am still waiting.
Those cool temperatures in midsummer? I do believe we have our past winter to thank for that. Days upon days of weather in the single digits or below zero made for a record breaking ice cover on the great lakes. Over 90% of the Great Lakes were ice covered. Friends that ice fish told me that the ice was 3′ thick on Lake Huron this past winter. Ice that thick did not melt so quickly, given our very chilly spring. If someone told me today that Lake Michigan still had chunks of ice floating around, I would believe it. How has that affected our summer? The prevailing winds blowing over frozen or near freezing lakes has made for a relatively cold summer. This week, the rains just kept coming. My ruellia and angelonia look good, just small. How have I protected my tropical plants that like high heat and hate waterlogged soil?
The proper watering of tropical/season/annual plants in ground and in containers is key to their success. In the heat of July, I water my containers every other day. I water my begonias only once a week in July-if that. Their fleshy stems store a lot of water. One bit too much water from my hose, and they will rot. The heat of July means water is evaporating out of the soil in the pots at a rapid rate. It takes a lot of attention and some skill to water just enough to keep the moisture level even. Not too much, not too little. Plants that are greatly wanting for water shed leaves, and shut down. Rescue water may revive a desperately thirsty plant, but the stress of going without can take a toll. Plants that get watered on a schedule without regard to the weather will eventually protest, and falter. Too much water is just as bad as too little. I see watering on containers now at a rate proper with 90 degree days, though many of our days have barely hit 70.
Linden trees suffering from lack of water in the heat of the summer-their interior leaves will turn yellow, and drop. A tree suffering from lack of water will shed interior leaves. The leaves at the ends of the branches are actively engaged in photosynthesis. Precious water reserves will be reserved for those leaves performing vital functions for the health of the tree. A linden tree which is over watered will send signals. The leaves-all of the leaves-wilt, and eventually yellow. Leaf drop will be considerable. This silver cascade dusty miller has been over watered. The interior leaves are yellowing.
Container plantings that are not doing well right now can largely be attributed to over water. When the temperatures are cool, and the overnight temperatures downright cold, water less. Maybe a lot less. Maybe not at all. The usual watering routine does not apply in a season like this. I always put my finger in the dirt down to my knuckle before I water. If the soil sticks to my finger, I don’t water. If the knuckle test says don’t water for 10 days, I don’t water for 10 days. If the soil slides off my finger, I water. Past this general rule, great watering becomes an art. A great diagnostician/gardener is an artist at heart. If one plant in a container seems dry, I water one plant. If it is 95 degrees, and I need water to soak a container, I may fill that container with water 3 times before moving on. When in doubt, I pass on the water.
Many factors influence the performance of plants. Placing the plant in the right place comes first. Light and water are crucial secondary elements. In shade, in cool temperatures, and in rainy weather I water tropical plants less. My hardy ferns and European ginger love all the rain we have been getting. My landscape is thriving, happy with all of the unexpected water from the sky. They have so much more potential for drainage than a plant in a pot.
If your annual plants have leaves that are pale or yellow green, if they look peaked, fungus marked, black and mushy, or otherwise headed to a watery grave, shut off the hose. Keep that hose in neutral in cold and rainy weather.