( if alive , either mr. ellington or mr. calloway could have informed rebecca that henry 's outfit , including the `` high-drape '' pants with a `` reet pleat , '' terms not in her vocabulary , had undoubtedly been handmade by one of four specific tailors located in the black neighborhoods of new york , washington , d.c. , philadelphia , or los angeles , masters of their trade during the thirties and forties , underground tailors , men now alas as dead as their celebrated clients .