해결 되 었 습니다 : Thermal pad replacement alternatives - Dell Latitude D 620 - iFixit 
 Thermal pad replacement alternatives 
 Hi . I ' ve read the post " Dell Latitude D 620 Teardown " and my question is : if the chipset ' s blue thermal pad is missing , can I replace it with a piece of copper and putting the thin layer of Artic Silver 5 between the copper and the chip and between the copper and the heatsink ? 
 The question is due to I can ' t get that kind of thermal pad in my country , only can get very thin thermal pad and it seems of a different material . Or what other alternatives can I develop ? 
 Thanks nicksmacan for the answer . 
 Juan 의 답변 2010 년 10 월 05 일 
 평점 : 113 . 6000 
 게시 됨 : 2010 년 10 월 05 일 
 My only concern with using a piece of copper with thermal paste on the sides is that the thermal conductivity of copper may not be the same as the original thermal pad . I would assume that it could work , but I would do my best to try and replace the pad with a similar one . 
 A lot of time , there will be people selling pre - cut slices of thermal pad on ebay . 
 I have also purchased thermal pads from Digi - Key . 
 You should be able to read the processor temperature on the desktop . If you do decide to try and use a copper spacer , then be sure to check the temperature and make sure that it is within operating limits . 
 Majesty 의 답변 2010 년 10 월 05 일 
 rj 713 의 답변 2010 년 10 월 05 일 
 게시 됨 : 2014 년 03 월 30 일 
 I know this is an old , dead thread , but I ' m sure people still find this page when searching for thermal pad info and I want to add my two cents worth . I still can not get over how many people do not know , or have doubts about the thermal conductivity of copper . 
 For anyone who does not know , or who doubts the thermal conductivity of copper , let me say that NO thermal pad will match the thermal conductivity of copper . Silver is the only " common " material that I know of with superior thermal conductivity to copper . And for those that think aluminum is such a great thermal conductor , aluminum has only about 1 / 2 the thermal conductivity of copper . If you don ' t believe me , look it up yourself . Unless thermal pads are imbued with some sort of non - existent thermal magic , they can not even come close to the thermal conductivity of copper . The copper is not the problem , it ' s all about proper fit and thickness and how well the surfaces meet , as well as using a high quality thermal paste on both sides . And of course , also being sure that the copper does not touch any electrical contacts and short something out . 
 Another thing to consider when using a copper shim is that many laptop heatsinks have multiple contact points ( CPU , GPU , Chipset ) . On mine , the CPU makes direct contact with the heatsink and thermal pads are used on the GPU and chipset . If a copper shim was made too thick , this could possibly not allow the CPU to make proper contact with the heatsink and lead to even more serious problems . In the interest of simplicity , using a high quality thermal pad is often the best and easiest option . Also , keep in mind that all thermal pads are NOT created equal . A material with a higher W / mK number is better than one with a lower number . 
 Using an old copper penny to start with is not a terrible idea in a pinch , but it ' s definitely a McGuyver approach . However , not polishing the flat sides smooth is not really a good idea , especially if it will be used long term . I would also not use the penny whole unless I had no other alternative . It should be cut down to the size of the chip you will be using it on , and after it is cut to size , then polish both flat surfaces until as flat , smooth , and parallel as possible , and of course to the proper thickness . Once you think it is the right size , then use thermal paste on both sides and give it a test run . The downside of using thermal paste with a metal shim of any kind that is not fastened securely , is that over time and after thermal cycling , it can potentially begin to move . Once you know it is the right size and have tested that it will work properly and satisfactorily , it might be a good idea to use a thermal adhesive on ONE side of it to be sure it does not drift or move over time . Do Not use thermal adhesive on both sides or you ' ll likely never be able to remove your heatsink again without damaging something severely . 
 If you will be using your laptop in a warm climate , upgrading the stock thermal pads to higher quality thermal pads might be a good idea if you seem to be having heat related issues . This is one area manufacturers often skimp on , they use what is good enough in their opinion , not necessarilly what is best . FrozenCPU is a good place to get replacement thermal pads , and yes , they sell several different thicknesses , brands , and qualities of them . I hope this info helps someone , because I know the subject drove me crazy before I learned about it . 
 게시 됨 : 2010 년 11 월 01 일 
 So the conclusion is : the piece of copper works but only if you can fit it properly to fill accurately the gap between the chip and the heatsink . 
 Penny still going strong approaching two years now . 
 Does penny really works . ? 
 ansel _ alberto 의 답변 2017 년 06 월 11 일 
 Yep , computer is super old now , but still works perfectly with the penny . Even if it doesn ' t work for you , I think it ' s worth a try . 
 ToaD 의 답변 2017 년 06 월 11 일 
 Liked Juan ' s solution but being lazy , figured it was too much trouble . A penny seemed to be just the right thickness so researched the copper content of pennies in different years . Grabbed one from the 70 s which was in the 97 percent range , and used a generous amount of thermal paste to fill in the gaps on both sides of the penny . 
 So far so good . Can watch movies without the fan blasting or the machine shutting down . 
 I have a Compaq Presario CQ 56 . 
 The computer had worked fine for the last year . Then it got slower and slower , and finally started freezing at random times . It actually got to the point where it was not reliable enough to use . 
 I took it completely apart to get to the fan . I can ' t believe I had to take the mother board out of this computer to get to the fan ! . 
 I had to remove the heat sink / heat pipe to get to the screws for the fan enclosure . I removed this huge dust bunny from the fan vent . It was so thick it was like a felt pad . 
 I cleaned up the heat sink / heat pipe , CPU , and GPU discarding the GPU thermal pad ( mistake ) . I used a silicone based heat sink compound to dope up the GPU and CPU . 
 After putting the computer back together it ran wonderfully . The fan was much quieter and did not run all the time at full speed . 
 I was so happy until I tried to play Angry Birds Seasons Demo . 
 I would get about two minutes of play then the graphics would break up , lines would be across the screen and the computer was frozen . 
 I then realized my mistake . When working with crappy laptops , with crappy cooling systems , if you remove a thermal pad , you replace it with another thermal pad . 
 I did not have another thermal pad and getting to the computer store is a pain without a car . 
 I tried the penny hack and it did not work . It did give me about seven minutes in angry birds before freezing instead of two . 
 So I guess I will have to wait until I can get to the computer store to buy the thermal pad before I will have a working computer . 
 At this point I have taken the computer completely apart and re assembled six times . 
 If that does not work I guess I will have to fork out some dough ( pain considering I am unemployed ) and replace the mother board and processor . It is just a single Celeron but the mother board will take a dual core Pentium . 
 The penny trick didn ' t work for me also . However , I found out that it is good to use thermal pads and copper shim together . After I ' ve tried it , my laptops temerature droped dramaticaly . 
 They are using K 5 - PRO thermal paste ( it is used to replace pads even though it is a paste ) and copper shim . 
 Josua Miles 의 답변 2016 년 04 월 29 일 
 Juan 가 / 이 대단히 고마워 할 것 입니다 . 
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