It ' s just a joke dude relax <| sep |> Are you talking about themes in Adrenaline or on the Vita side of things ? <| sep |> you need a very rare weapon for the build to work . no nerfs needed imo <| sep |> It was not a constructed criticism of spez , more like shitposting vs shitposting . <| sep |> Just for the swim sessions I ' ve recently moved up to 4 k and if I want to get that done , need to hit the water earlier ! <| sep |> fail carry fuck noob ! say fast fat but never . putang ina bobo <| sep |> Guess I forgot to put that part in . I ' m running an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 . <| sep |> I ' m sure you ' ll get to the point eventually ? <| sep |> Oh my God . They probably don ' t deliver to where I live . <| sep |> OK , I see you took the shield advice . Good . Schematics Still dog ' s breakfast . This is very hard to follow with the lines unconnected to anything , only labeled . Labels are used to avoid a big mess of wires when you have many of them , not to avoid having to connect anything to the connector in the middle . Stick with 90 degrees wires . Move text labels out of the wires , so that they don ' t overlap . Also do move the labels to the actual wires they are for , otherwise it is very misleading e . g . the 3 v 3 connections on the multiplexer ! 3 v 3 Vcc connections should be pointing with the arrow upwards , GND down . Label the nets going to the Huzzah connector meaningfully , labels like 2 or 16 are really useless because you don ' t know what the net is for unless you look up the pinout . Moreover , these numeric labels are easy to confuse with pin numbers ! A really wonderful way how to screw up that could make the proverbial magic smoke escape and cost you a lot of money ! Not quite sure what is the deal with the MOSFET and LED there ? That part of the schematics is really not clear what are you attempting to achieve ? Also the net labeled USB makes me wonder what is going on there normally you don ' t connect resistors , LEDs or buttons to anything USB . Is that the 5 V from the USB connector ? Then do label it as 5 V or Vbus or something . BTW , if you are using the USB 5 V , do keep in mind that the voltage on the USB connector could be anywhere between about 4 . 4 V and 5 . 25 V , depending on hardware and load . Especially the undervoltage e . g . due to a long USB cable could be an issue if you are powering circuitry directly from it . Also keep in mind the maximum power draw from a USB port 500 mA since you are planning to run the ESP module needs 200 mA by itself and the Neopixels ring could be hundreds of mA or more , depending on how you are driving it from it . If you are going to use an USB charger and not communicate with the device over USB then you can ignore the part about the power draw . Re the I 2 C pullup resistors go with 4 k 7 . Re button you need a pullup resistor to ensure that the button line has always defined logic level . If you only connect the button to ground , the line will be disconnected floating when the button isn ' t pressed and the CPU will read random datanoise from it . You don ' t need to put the resistor far away with the LED , you can add the pullup resistor on the board , in that way you have only two wires going to the button , no need to bring Vcc voltage there too . The multiplexer lacks a decoupling capacitor You are mentioning the Neopixels ring where is that connected to ? There is nothing on the schematics dealing with it . Make sure ERC and DRC checks in Eagle pass if they don ' t , your board will likely not work or not be manufacturable ! OTOH , checks passing does not mean that it will work , only that you didn ' t commit some elementary mistakesConcerning PCB You should upload both sides of the board separately , it is very difficult to see the connections on the bottom side of the board when they are covered by the top side . You could have probably moved the majority of the circuit under the Huzzah making the board smaller . However , if you are building this for a specific enclosure where the dimensions are given then ignore this comment . The decoupling capacitors are in the wrong place . They must be placed right next to the chip they belong to . The rightmost 100 n cap has a trace going across half of the board from what I can see . That makes such capacitor useless . The routing and layout is much better than what you had before , congrats . However try to avoid running traces across the entire board . That makes the routing more tricky because you block off more space and it also makes it easier for noise to disrupt your signals . E . g . if you have placed the I 2 C sensors close to the Huzzah I 2 C pins , you wouldn ' t have to run the I 2 C traces across the board . You have a metric ton of space on that board , why don ' t you move the connectors out of the way ? Or move the sensors . Stop mask errors mean that you have something sticking out into the copper layers that shouldn ' t be there . Sometimes silkscreen can cause that . This post explains how to deal with it maskerrorsindrcRe MLX 90614 ESF The schematics for MLX 90614 ESF is incorrect the wires to the capacitor are not actually connected between ground and Vcc the dot is not optional ! Crossing or only touching lines are not connected otherwise you would have shorts everywhere ! . Also this little bit of schematics is a mess already why not make the layout in such way that the wires don ' t overlap the text and move the capacitor symbol to minimize the length of those wires ? Hmm , I do wonder what are you trying to actually do that it needs an IR thermometer . This is the sort of sensor used in the contactless thermometers like this one AR 550 MiniInfrareddpB 000 MX 5 Y 9 CThat will need some lens , possibly a laser to aim it so that you can see what you are measuringwhere is it pointing and it also has quite complex data processing from what I can see . I hope you didn ' t buy this instead of a regular temperature sensor ?