【 TRAVEL 】 Zhejiang Province , CHINA ゆっくりと 時 が 流 れる 緑 豊 かな 保養 地 By Philip Gostelow , Freelance Writer 莫 干 山 には 約 160 の 別 荘 がある 。 その 多 くは 、 1920 年 代 から 30 年 代 にかけて 建 てられた 　 From the sweltering heat and congested traffic of Shanghai , my first views of the lush farms and rustic villages at the base of Moganshan set my heart aflutter . With the first breaths of sweet clean air , noticeably cooler than that I ’ d left behind in the metropolis , my pulse slowed . 　 As the minibus meandered the switchback turns up the mountain , deep valleys covered by forests of bamboo emerged through the windows . As we continued our ascent , a blur of elegant gardened European stone villas swept into view . I was leaving life in the plains behind and entering an entirely new world . 　 An hour and a half drive from Hangzhou , the rich green hills of Moganshan have been a place of rest , health and reinvigoration for the past century , and are far from the maddening crowds . Kuomintang leader Chiang Kai - shek spent time here on several occasions , as did Chairman Mao Zedong in 1954 . 　“ Nowadays , there ’ s not a lot of mention of the expats who put Moganshan on the map , creating this elevated playground in the clouds , that ’ s downplayed in favor of its retreats ’ use by Mao and Chiang , ” says Mark Kitto , the mountain ’ s only full - time foreign resident in more than 50 years . 　 With a rich past as a member of the Queen ’ s Guard , commodities broker and publisher , the 42 - year - old Welshman moved here with his Chinese wife and two children after a stint in Shanghai . Having taken out a 10 - year lease on an old villa ( there ’ s no private ownership of property here ) he decided to leave the city for the slower pace of the countryside . “ Moganshan is a good place to sit back and consider one ’ s next step in life , so we came here , and started the Lodge to keep ourselves busy . ”　 It was also the desire for a slower pace of life that first led to Moganshan ’ s development as a summer retreat in the 1880 s , by a group of Shanghai expats , seeking relief from the summer swelter . 　 In 1949 when the Communists took control , the mountain and its forests were reserved for the party cadres , and believed to be set up as a refuge at the height of the Cold War for provincial political leaders . The villas were used to accommodate loyal Communist workers , their spacious rooms partitioned to squeeze in extra families . In the decades that followed many fell into disrepair . 　 In the 1980 s Moganshan was reopened to the public , and has since re - established itself as a restful holiday destination , with many of the 160 original villas now being reincarnated as guesthouses and hotels . Still there remains a charm and romanticism attached to the cluster of villages on Moganshan that is hard to find elsewhere in China . 　 Located in the heart of the village of Yin Shan Jie ― a hub for hiking , hotels and restaurants near the top of 700 - meter high Mount Mogan ― the Lodge is a convenient point from which to explore the sites and trails and learn some of the local history . 竹 やぶ 散 歩 で 発 見 　 The real attraction is the magical experience of walking the trails and roads through bamboo and pine forests . 　 Under the peaceful canopy of the forest are the true pleasures of Moganshan . I was surprised to find iridescent caterpillars , giant beetles and multicolored butterflies in the bamboo groves . I passed quaint villas , and hiked down into the valley to Sword Pond Waterfall . Capturing vistas across hilltops , I could distinguish between the soft mid - green tendrils of the bamboo groves and the dark green sturdiness of pine trees . 　 And when the day ’ s hiking was done I ’ d drop by the Lodge for a well - earned refreshing drink . As the only European - style convenience of its kind on Moganshan , the Lodge offers hearty breakfasts , three - course dinners and a full bar service . A broad terrace is a nice place for a refreshing drink at sundown , and to enjoy the hazy green - tinged view across the valley . 　 Kitto says the most frequently heard comment after a weekend on the mountain is , “ It feels like I have been away for a week . ”　 It ’ s not all about the expat influence though ; the local tourism industry is focused on the Chinese . Tour buses roll in and out of the village square at Yin Shan Jie every morning . Consequently there ’ s no shortage of Chinese restaurants , most serving local dishes of chicken soup ( complete with entire plucked chicken ) , frog and tortoise meat and seasonal vegetables . And for after - dinner entertainment there are a few karaoke lounges . 　 After dinner , in the early evening , there ’ s a peaceful calm while climbing the stone steps up to the hotel terrace , looking out across the mountain vista to twinkling window lights in distant villas , the cooling breeze bringing with it the sound of summer insects chirping , a couple of tourists sitting having a quiet beer under lamplight . A perfect moment . It ’ s worth it just to experience this serenity . I ’ ll be back for more ; I ’ m told the snow here in winter is wonderful . Asahi Weekly , April 20 , 2008 より