Courtesy The Merrion Hotel
Drinking in Dublin's Finest Hotel
by Kelsy Chauvin
Where a British duke might feel right at home: Ireland's uncommon accommodation has thought of everything, even the perfect teas to fend off winter blues.
In a city like Dublin, throwing around the word "exquisite" can be a little risky. After all, this is a city loved for being real, in a country adored for being down-to-earth. Grand terminology feels more like pomp and circumstance than vocabulary applicable to a charming, albeit historic, accommodation.
In the case of Dublin's Merrion Hotel, however, "exquisite" applies, though in a less-haughty way. The hotel occupies a seamlessly converted row of four Georgian townhomes with distinguished pedigrees, along a stretch of Upper Merrion Street in the city center. Most prominently, in building No. 24, the first Duke of Wellington was born on May 1, 1769—the man famous for leading the defeat of Napoleon at Waterloo.
These days, the duke likely would be an honorable guest at the five-star hotel, which regularly hosts luminaries (recent sightings included Apple CEO Tim Cook and actor Timothy Dalton). Since its 1997 opening, the Merrion is consistently on Ireland's top-hotel lists, ranking fourth nationally on Condé Nast Traveler's 2015 Reader's Choice Awards, and topping the list for Dublin.
But as with any acclaimed hotel, a reputation of excellence comes only with a complete package. It begins with the hearty Irish greetings from the doormen and concierge team, whose lilting accents make the perfect welcome wagon for weary travelers. They are the first layer of what is consistently a staff wholly interested in perfecting your stay (including putting umbrellas in your hand in accordance with the forecast—this is Dublin, after all).
The lovely rooms aren't enough to keep guests from enjoying the Merrion's inviting common spaces, however. Posh drawing rooms beckon for afternoon tea, dubbed "art tea" in honor of the hotel's superb collection, and serving pastries inspired by some of the 19th- and 20th-century works adorning the walls. Indeed, the hotel's curated gallery (complete with its own audio tour) is the largest private collection of contemporary Irish-art outside of the National Gallery—which, by the way, is just across the street.
The Merrion's own Tea Master, Laura McGinn, also works with the seasons to better serve guests. This month she's introduced a selection of Tchi ("tchee") drinks to help lift winter blues. Rose and honey; date, longan and goji; and jasmine are now among the hotel's tea menu that, in Chinese philosophy, help harmonize body and mind, reduce stress, and promote a steady flow of energy.
Bar No.23
Courtesy of The Merrion Hotel
On warmer days, two landscaped gardens let guests time travel to the 18th century. In a more clubby way, Bar No. 23 also conjures old-school style; it's a perfect atmosphere for sampling Irish whiskeys and hatching big ideas on cocktail napkins.
Swim off pastries and pints of locally brewed Guinness in the rather stunning subterranean 18-meter infinity pool in the hotel's Tethra Spa, royally clad in indigo tile and French limestone.
Because the hotel combined multiple structures, its well-appointed corridors may feel somewhat labyrinthine at first—not to worry. Any staff member will direct or even lead you where you're headed until you get the hang of it.
The Merrion has filled out it lower level with two of Dublin's standout restaurants—each interesting for different reasons. The first, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, remains Ireland's only two-Michelin-starred venue. Its fanfare is well deserved, with a menu that employs indigenous ingredients with unforgettable flair, e.g. poached Irish blue lobster in sweet chive emulsion, or Kilkenny duck with orange miso.
By contrast, exposed brick and arched ceilings fit the Cellar Restaurant and Cellar Bar, two separate eateries inside the main townhouse's old 18th-century wine vault. (Oh to have sampled the original bottles.)
Today, the Cellar Restaurant is a romantic setting to try Chef Ed Mooney's local game and other distinctively Irish cuisine. At the Cellar Bar, he dons his gastropub chef's hat, preparing exceptional pub fare like 28-day dry-aged rib eye, pan-seared ray wing, or delectable Irish cheese selections. Pull up to the bar for pint tastings, delivered by the savvy barman, who will pair them with delicacies like black pudding and toasted beer bread.
The hotel's neighborhood is its own destination. Down the street, Sweny's Pharmacy still sells the lemon soap favored in James Joyce's Ulysses, along with an impressive assortment of Joycean souvenirs and apothecary goods. Nearby Merrion Square offers a lush haven so serene that one can understand why Oscar Wilde, who once resided across the street and said that "being natural is simply a pose," seems so content there, in statuesque repose atop a quartz boulder.
A less-common definition of "exquisite" refers to a person excessively concerned with his appearance; a "dandy." Perhaps the exquisite Oscar Wilde might apply the term to the Merrion Hotel after all.
Check out Traveler's Destination Dublin for more city insights.
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