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Review: Château de Fonscolombe
A 300-year-old chateau reborn as a hotel in the countryside outside Marseille
Hot List 2018
Reviewed by Jessica Benavides Canepa
Let's start with the basics: Where is it?
In a completely secluded area—the closest sign of civilization is Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade, a tiny 11th-century village nearby. The chateau is a 30-minute drive from Marseille Provence Airport and a scenic 20-minute drive from Aix-en-Provence train station. The hotel can arrange for transfers to and from.
Although the hotel is prepped for guests year-round, it's best to come from April until mid June (due to temperate weather), or between September and early November for seasonal cuisine and wine harvest season.
How did it strike you on arrival?
You can imagine Colin Firth or Gwyneth Paltrow filming a period piece here. Unlike at many "castle hotels" that are more castle adjacent, here, guests are made to feel like they are actually living in a chateau, with full run of the sitting rooms and grounds for meals, drinks, reading, resting, or exploring. Since Fonscolombe opened in June 2017, most of the people checking in are well-to-do families from in and around the region. Many are curious about the opening up of an estate that, until 18 months prior, had been a private chateau for more than 300 years. With only 50 rooms (13 in the castle, 37 in the extension) divided between the castle and the adjoining buildings and 10 hectares of land for guest use, I doubt it ever feels overcrowded. The vibe is relaxed yet indulgent.
Nice. What's the crowd like?
Couples and families. There is a total disconnect from city life here. Guests are encouraged to take walks, go biking, swim, or go picnicking on the property; indoors, you're meant to relax, play cards and billiards, and enjoy tea and cocktails.
The good stuff: Tell us about the rooms.
Each room is done with its own unique décor and amenities, though non-castle rooms have a slightly more modern feel. (Since they aren't historically protected, they come with contemporary updates, like air conditioning.) For the best views, the in-castle garden view suites are spectacular. Outside, the grounds are covered with rare trees and plant species courtesy of the former owner, a renowned botanist. The grounds have a chapel, a vegetable garden, statues, fountains, a vineyard, and a pond that once served as the original family swimming pool.
How about the little things, like mini bar, or shower goodies? How's the Wi-Fi at a castle?
The Wi-Fi is free though sometimes a bit choppy. The towels, robes, and slippers feel plush and the linens are top notch. There is a mini fridge with complementary beverages. Room service is available from the main dining room. There is also an intimate private dining room upon request.
What's the food like?
The dining area with outdoor terrace is exceptional, and the meals are typical of the region with a changing menu of fresh seasonal produce, meats, fish, dairy, and provincial herbs. Breakfast with fresh jams, breads, and eggs is available buffet style in a gorgeous hybrid room decked out with tapestry rugs and vintage upholstery. A wall of wines is topped with a row of ceramic and clay potted plants. Service is friendly and impeccable. Seasonally, afternoon meals come with live music.
Anything stand out about other services and features? Whether it's childcare, gyms, spas, even parking—whatever stuck with you.
Massages are given in a former family bedroom with a painting of its onetime inhabitant on the wall. Guided tours detailing the history of the chateau and its furnishings are even available upon request. As an anecdote, Queen Elizabeth once planted a tree when she stayed here as a guest of the family. The tree is still here on the grounds as is her room (#201).
Bottom line: Worth it, and why?
I would definitely visit again—maybe during the spring season this time?—and recommend the chateau to anyone who wants to escape it all in an authentic country castle setting.
Route de Saint-Canadet, Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade 13610
+33 4-42-21-13-13
https://fonscolombe.fr/fr/
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