Scenic's Romantic Rhine & Moselle Cruise II
Scenic's Romantic Rhine and Moselle River Cruise was proving to be a great hit with David and his fellow-passengers.
Scenic's Romantic Rhine and Moselle River Cruise was proving to be a great hit with David and his fellow-passengers. It set out from Amsterdam, cruised to Bruges in Belgium and back to the Netherlands.
Next stop was Veere on the island of Walcheren. It is one of The Netherlands prettiest towns and David was delighted that Scenic's electric bikes for touring, and along with local guide, Narnie Dourst, he was ready to take in all that Veere had to offer.
One of the first things Narnie pointed out was a mark high on a wall left by devastating floods in 1953. As a result higher walls were built to keep water out but denying access to the North Sea. That ended the fishing industry almost overnight, but what has resulted are healthy tourism, boating and leisure industries. On the 26 kilometre long Veerse Lake every form of aquatic activity is zealously tackled.
Veere is home to around just 2000 people, considerably fewer than during the 16th century when it was an important seaport with a busy trade in wool, linen and salt. It was the centre of the profitable and valuable wool trade between Scotland and the Low Countries. Veere's large Scottish population enjoyed many privileges, including its own church, accommodation, tax exemptions and a degree of autonomy. It had priority rights on harbour berths and a hotel and tavern selling tax-free beer!
Scottish houses were grand affairs of lavish living space, offices and warehouses. The Scotland-Veere connection was strengthened with the marriage of Princess Mary Stuart, daughter of King James I of Scotland and Wolfert VI van Borselen, the Lord of Veere, in 1444.
In a town of pretty buildings, Veere's 15th century City Hall has a grand façade, a tower with 16th century bells and a carillon voted one of the prettiest in The Netherlands but it has a not-so-pleasant history. Criminals were put on show in stocks and chains and the public could throw stones and spit at them!
Great Church, Grote Kerk, was built in 1332 and enlarged 75 years later with the addition of a new nave and transept. It was consecrated in 1437 and a chapter was attached in 1470. Charming townhouses snuggle side-by-side in narrow lanes and The Campveerse Tower built in around 1500 was an inn and coastal light. It is one of the oldest taverns in The Netherlands. Its green doors leading to the basement were built to allow lorries on rails to go directly from the port into the house to upload and download cargo.
No town in Holland would be complete without the iconic windmill. Many of the old windmills are crumbling but they are such a huge part of the country's national heritage, the government is committed to restoring and preserving them.
Back on board, the ship's entertainment program had excelled in reflecting the current location and guests were treated to a clog dancing performance.
For a further infusion of local life, Scenic FreeChoice dining offers the choice of three local restaurants, each representing the cuisine and culture of its town or village. David and some of his fellow-passengers chose The Westhapp. He loved its location – a dyke on the western-most tip of The Netherlands, surrounded by the ocean on three sides and he could see Belgium and the UK across the water. The Atlantic salmon and mackerel were delicious and everyone returned to their ship contented and ready to sail through more postcard scenery as Scenic Opal promised more European gloriousness. Every bend in the river seemed to present a grand bridge, lush fields, castles, medieval townships and more fairytale scenery.
The university city of Nijmegen, thought to be The Netherlands' oldest city, was the next place to visit. The Romans had a military camp there in the 1st century BC and with the German border just 7 kilometres away, it was the first Dutch city to be invaded by the Nazis in WWII. In 1940 it was accidentally bombed by American planes who mistook it for a German settlement. It saw much heavy fighting before being liberated in 1944 by the British Grenadier Guards.
The Airborne Museum stands in honour of the area's darkest hours and has interactive exhibits, relics and memorial monuments.
Nijmegen has a population of around 168,000 and is surrounded by hills and beautiful forests. It has lots of shops, cafés, lovely old buildings and middle-age ruins, including Noviomagus, a Roman settlement. It also has more pubs per square metre than any other town in The Netherlands.
Scenic Opal gently cruised to another highlight. Maastricht, on both sides of the Meuse River, is on a finger of land sandwiched between Belgium and Germany.
The country's oldest fortified city, Maastricht is a member of the most ancient European towns network and is widely admired as a beautiful city of history, culture, local folklore, education, food and wine and the joys of life.
It is the birthplace of the Maastricht Treaty, responsible for the creation of the European Union, signed in 1992 by the leaders of twelve nations, reflecting the serious intentions of all countries to create a common economic and monetary union.
Other than noting Maastricht's alfresco lifestyle, David was interested to see two majestic old churches standing side by side.
Built in the 6th century atop the grave of St Servatius, the first Bishop of Maastricht, St Servaaskerk is the oldest church in The Netherlands. Its highlights include the Imperial Hall and Imperial Gallery built between 1165-77. The South Doorway, the Bergportaal with biblical statuary, dates from the 13th century.
The impressive Gothic Basilica of Our Lady was built in 1000 AD. Just one portion of the original survives. In 1150, crypts and transepts were added, followed by the east choir in the early 1200s.
With the Protestant Reformation of the 16th century, the older church, St Servaaskerk, remained Catholic and Basilica of Our Lady, the newer, became Protestant.
For such a comparatively small country, David noticed a great difference between those in southern city and those in the north. Maastricht is big on cafés and restaurants, and wherever he is, David likes to try a local favourite dish. In Maastricht he was introduced to vlaai, a broad, flat yeast dough pie.
It originated when women covered leftover bread dough with fruit or jam, baked it and served it with coffee, the nation's favourite beverage. When bread baking was delegated to the village baker, vlaai was baked for Sunday visits, during village fairs and for holidays.
These days, vlaai is found in most bakeries in Holland and one warm slice with apple and cinnamon just never seems enough.
While David thought Maastricht the perfect city to indulge in a love of art and the good life in general, there was a time when medieval towns, as romantic as they may be these days, were not always the best places to live.
Helpoort, or Hell's Gate, is Holland's oldest city gate and earned its name as prisoners were kept in its tower. Construction began in 1229 under Henry I and is part of the First City Walls. When the Second City Walls were constructed in the 15th century, the gate was no longer needed. It has served as a residence, storage space and workshop, and today the gate houses a museum dedicated to the history of Maastrict's fortifications.
For all its evil connotations, the area around Hells Gate is beautifully idyllic. In fact everyone on Scenic's Romantic Rhine and Moselle River Cruise loved the endless supply of stop-you-in-your-tracks beauty, and knew there was more to come.
Cruising from Amsterdam to Basel with Scenic.
Join Scenic on an all-inclusive luxury 15 day Romantic Rhine and Moselle River Cruise between Amsterdam and Basel on a Scenic Space-Ship. All activities, events, meals and unlimited drinks are included.
Prices start at $7,795 per person twin share. Book now and fly for free. Travel dates and conditions apply.
Just for Getaway viewers, visit scenic.com.au/getaway now to receive an extra $250 per person off any 2016/17 Europe River Cruise.
To book, attend a free information session or request a free brochure, visit scenic.com.au or call 138 128.
Prices correct at 20.02.2016
scenic.com.au
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