'The supermarkets killed Fishponds - but it's fighting back'
Fishponds has always been in a state of constant flux
Neil Maggs
Gary Hillard and Josh Cummins from Doug Hillard Sport shop, founded by the former Bristol Rovers legend Doug Hillard in 1967 (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
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Fishponds sits in the north-east of Bristol and, like many parts of the city, is an area which has changed in recent years.
Since large supermarkets like Morrisons and Lidl moved in, many of its independent family-run shops have long since gone.
But the history of Fishponds has always been one of constant flux.
The first record of a 'Fish Ponds' was in 1734, when the area was entirely covered by a forest.
It was gradually developed overtime, when a village was built around two quarry pools and was home to miners and quarrymen who dug for coal and pennant stone.
In the mid-1800s a large manufacturing industry developed around Lodge Causeways and Filwood Road. Housing and shops developed around the main Fishponds Road high street.
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It became famous for its 1200-seat cinema the Van Dyke Picture House, which was open from 1926 until 1973, the headquarters of the original Bristol Rovers FC, and a world-class automobile and aircraft manufacturing industry.
Today it's well known for its pubs, bingo hall, local parks, and supermarkets.
Some parts are thriving, others are dwindling, and Bristol Live paid a visit to spot some of the new, the old, and meet some of the area's characters.
The oldest shop in Fishponds
Peter Turner manager of Turners Opticians, a family run business of three generations which was founded in 1939 (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
Turners Opticians is the oldest shop on Fishponds Road. The family-run business was started in 1939 by the late Harold Turner, and is now managed by his grandson Peter. Peter took over from his father Philip six years ago.
The shop has managed to keep busy and profitable in the face of the emerging big national chains such as Specsavers and Vision Express.
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Peter said: "We carried out a survey in 2013 to get customer feedback, and what kept coming back was trust.
"That we have key relationships stretching back through different generations, something which can't be bought. So we branded our strapline to be 'Trusted since 1939.'
Turners Opticians on Fishponds Road (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
Generations of families have been coming back to the opticians, and continue to do so. Peter said: "We get grandparents bringing their grandchildren. People that came here as a child.
"New customers are also being increasingly drawn to the family and personal touch we have," he added.
Changes in the street have been notable to Peter, he said: "Yes we are one of the only few remaining now, the butchers opposite, and the bakers are no longer with us. It's a shame."
The infamous Fishponds library that is now part of the local primary school (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
Many old iconic buildings still stand in Fishponds. Some have been used for new purposes, others stand derelict.
The Fishponds library building has been refurbished and is now part of the Fishponds Church of England Academy, and the old cinema has been converted into a JD Wetherspoon pub.
One of Fishponds oldest pubs the Farrier Arms which closed in 2010 has been a pub since 1872 (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
Some such as the Farriers Arms, one of Bristol oldest pubs and a listed building, remain unused. It is rumoured that the local Morrisons will try to take over the building.
The Van Dyke Forum now a Wethespoons pub was a former famous cinema on Fishponds Road (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
'The big supermarkets have killed the high street'
One of the most famous shops in Fishponds, which people still travel to from across the city is a sport shop.
Doug Hillard Sports stock a range of sport equipment, from football boots to cricket bats and golf clubs.
It was started in 1967, by Doug Hillard himself, a Bristol Rovers legend who made more than 300 appearances for the club. The tough, no nonsense tackling full back opened the shop on Stapleton Road in Easton, and moved premises to Fishponds Road in 1978.
Doug is sadly now dead, but the shop has been passed to his son Gary.
Gary said: "We know what customers want, we have been in the business for more than 50 years. You get good service here, the personal touch.
"That doesn't always happen in some of the big chains like Sport Direct."
The shop tries to stock items the big chains don't. "If they are doing black boots, we will do the red. If they have blue boots, we will get the black. We try to get exclusive items here, make ourselves different in the stock we sell," he said.
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Gary plays a strong role in local sport, and the shop supplies kit for many of the local and semi-professional clubs in the city. The connection to Bristol Rovers has remained, as Gary and the shop sponsor the ball boys at the club, and he pops down to matches when he can.
He is acutely aware about some of the changes in Fishponds. "The big supermarkets here have killed the high street. The other original family shops like ours are no longer here.
"So its changed massively in our time. We own the building here, so have managed to change with the times," he added.
Wolrd Services Snooker Ltd in Fishponds (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
Doug Hillard's isn't the only sport shop in Fishponds. Just 100 metres away is the home of one of the most prestigious organisations in the whole of the city.
World Snooker Services Ltd and Bristol Darts is not just a place where people can come and buy snooker tables, and dart boards, it is home to Star Tournament Table. Star are the sole suppliers of snooker tables to all the televised tournaments across the world.
Quite a coup for Fishponds, but then Snooker World Champion Judd Trump is a local boy. Although sadly he didn't grow up playing in the local Fishponds snooker club Pot Black, he was a member of Keynsham Snooker Club.
The barber people travel 50 miles for
Devran Barber shop (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
Fishponds has always had various barber shops over the years. Italian barbers Fabios remain, and Turkish barbers Devrans now own two shops. Devran has been around for around 16 years. It's become very popular with the locals, and is a place where you can even get your ears waxed with fire. Yes fire.
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The larger of the two shops sits opposite Fishponds Park.
One of its barbers is Esat. The 46-year-old is a local character, known for his confident nature and belief in his own hair-cutting skills. He said: "There are no more real barbers anymore. I see too many bad haircuts. No proper barbers left.
"I have been doing this since I was 16, all over the world. I am the one."
(Image: James Beck/Freelance)
People do come in to Devrans from far afield. Customer Barry who now lives locally, used to travel across from Knowle. "I came here one day nine years ago, and just kept coming. Its very good."
The secret for Esat is the quality, he said: "I have people that have tried to go everywhere, but they always come back to me. Some come from 50 miles away. I am a real, trained barber, that's why."
Emerging entrepreneurial spirit
New owner of the King Fisher cafe Maria Takacova (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
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One of the newest business owners in Fishponds is Maria Takacova. She took over the running of the KingFisher Cafe at the top of Straights Parade in February 2018. It's a popular cafe which is known for its Sunday lunches and family atmosphere.
She took it over from the family-run business before, and is part of an emerging entrepreneurial spirit of Fishponds trying to bring back independent shops and cafes.
But Maria concedes it has been struggling of late. She said: "It was once very popular and well used. But we were flooded at the beginning of November, and had to close for three months, and its not picked back up as well."
Kingfisher Cafe (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
Maria has a lease on the building, and been frustrated by the works. "It was supposed to take a few weeks, but took a lot longer. It's good to be back up and running but it has been frustrating, and with all the scaffolding still outside it doesn't look as welcoming as it once did.
"We want people to know we are back and up and running and start coming back more."
The changing face of Fishponds
Ton Poh Thai Spa in Fishponds (Image: James Beck/Freelance)
One of the places which perhaps symbolises the melting pot that Fishponds now is increasingly becoming is a surprising place. A Thai Spa which opened a year ago sits above the Conservative club on the main high street. Up a flight of steep stairs, it is an Aladdin's den of flowers, smells, and ornaments as you make your way up, greeted by a huge statue of Buddha.
At the reception area of the Ton Poh Thai Spa you are greeted by the owners Trinny and her staff. It is an unexpected oasis of calm amongst the frantic high street. The spa offers a range of treatments from Thai Massage, to Thai foot massage, to aromatherapy.
Owner Trinny has fought hard to try and change the image of the place, she explained: "We have had to get past what people think we are, to show we are not that kind of service. Connotations of being a massage parlor and all that," she said.
"So we are slowly becoming trusted more and more by women, who are the bulk of our customers."
The place is a tucked away gem, and even offers pamper packages named after parts of Thailand which Bristol tourists and travelers will be familiar with, you can get a Koh Samui, Phuket, and a Chiang Mai.
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This is not the only traditional Thai run business in the area though, as a Thai restaurant sits just down the road has been around for several years. It is part of the changing face of Fishponds.
Fishponds is full of surprises and will no doubt continue to be so. A place with a rich tradition has changed of course, but the truth is it always has.
Change is inevitable, and with the death knell of many family businesses, there are pockets of resistance developing and people are grappling with building a new independent identity.
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