Sights of Sinuiju: change and continuity in North Korea's window to China
With new wealth and an old look, signs of large-scale upgrades still hard to find
by Colin Zwirko, Monday 22 April 2019 0:56 GMT
As Pyongyang continues to be the primary focus of North Korean state media and indeed the state's infrastructure improvements, another, far less flashy city remains the country's gateway to its key foreign financial supporter in China.
With a population less than half the neighboring Chinese city of Dandong, Sinuiju (at around 350,000 people according to the 2008 North Korean census) has lagged behind the capital in terms of development, but nonetheless has seen changes in recent years and even a mini construction boom.
The ports along the northern coast lining the Yalu River (or Amnok River as it is called in North Korea) serve an important economic role for the city's dozens of factories, while a large number of trucks still pour into the city daily through the cross-border bridge.
But despite the economic changes seen in the electric bicycles prominent on city streets and the ever-growing mobile phone use, infrastructure in Sinuiju is still in disrepair, ports are outdated and in need of upgrades, and even the large construction projects sometimes appear to be of questionable quality.
These issues may yet be addressed, however, as Kim Jong Un laid out grand plans for the city during a visit last November.
The photos below feature the streets and ports of Sinuiju, the city's outskirts, and even some of the North's own influence across the border in Dandong, all of which offer the image of a city which, while changing in subtle ways, still lags far behind its Chinese neighbor.
All images credit to NK News
Catch a glimpse
A tourist tries to catch a glimpse of the bustling city of Sinuiju from across the Yalu River in Dandong, China. Every day, hundreds of tourists flow to the Yalu River Broken Bridge to gaze across at North Korea and take pictures.
The tourist spot sits adjacent to the functioning road and rail bridge serving as the two countries' main trade artery, and which also busses in hundreds of tourists to North Korea daily in peak season.
Customs staging
This customs warehouse and outdoor staging area lies at the foot of the cross-border bridge and within the customs building complex. It appears large sacks of grain and other items were being prepared to be loaded into trucks on this day.
Still dark, still stark
But despite the high volume of traffic across the bridge and seemingly healthy level of trade, the North Korean border town (right) still lags far behind Dandong (left) in terms of development, as can be seen in this comparison shot showing the stark difference in electricity use at night.
Don't leave me hanging...
Using a makeshift scaffolding platform hanging from a Chinese-made XCMG crane, workers appear to be installing a propaganda slogan on this riverside building, which so far only reads, "The Sun of Juche Korea..."
Vintage sign
This building inside Sinuiju, with old neon lights accenting its facade, houses a traditional Korean dress and suit shop, a hairdresser, and a photo shop.
Some tourists visiting Sinuiju may appreciate the feeling of a bygone era, with oxen still being led along the roadsides, and an overall simpler aesthetics compared to the oversaturated advertisements across the river, with murals such as these common (in addition to, of course, an abundance of propaganda signs and slogans).
Double badges
But mixed in with the old-fashioned look and feel are other signs of change. This North Korean guide, sporting a Gucci handbag (real or not) and even two large Kim Il Sung-Kim Jong Il badges on each layer of clothing, shows off an electric scooter. Electric bicycles, however, still seem to be much more common, and can even be seen in the previous image along the same road as the ox cart.
The North Korean guides enjoy a moment in front of a history museum in Sinuiju. A large building under construction in the background appears unfinished.
A Mercedes-Benz GLS luxury SUV (2014-16 generation), with Chinese plates and belonging to the North Korean consulate in Dandong, parked outside near the Customs Office in Sinuiju
Promoting education
This large propaganda board ranks elementary, middle, and high schools as well as individual teachers in the left section. The middle section also ranks schools, but mentions "independent" middle and high schools (독립초급중학교 and 독립고급중학교) and "annex" high schools (병설고급중학교) – perhaps referring to those affiliated with resident Chinese communities (hwagyo) in North Korea or even North Koreans across the border in China.
The most prominent new construction project in Sinuiju lies just along the riverbank – a roughly 25-story building of apartments NK News understands are intended to be gifted to local scientists. The quality of construction, however, is far from reaching international standards, close-up images of the building show.
Building boom?
This image shows four other new tall buildings which began construction in 2018, according to a review of satellite imagery. Arrays of solar panels can be seen affixed to the roofs of almost every other finished building in the picture.
So close, yet so far
The main theater in Sinuiju, the North Pyongan Province Arts Theater, lies in the central district of the city. Residents standing in the main square out front can see the new, modern buildings of Dandong across the river on the horizon.
Modern street scene
A typical street scene in Sinuiju: a convenience store open from noon to 2200, a stall selling roasted sweet potatoes, a sidewalk in desperate need of repairs, a woman talking on the phone, and yet more personal solar panels outside the windows of residents.
While state media has been busy promoting a brand-new, state-of-the-art department store in Pyongyang in recent days, Sinuiju is still waiting for their own building of similar quality. In the meantime, there is still the Children's Department Store of Sinuiju
Shopping in Dandong
Across the river, Chinese residents can get their hands on a range of North Korean goods such as cigarettes and ginseng products. The 7.27 brand produced by the Naegohyang Cigarette Factory is sold here for a higher price than the others due to the general perception that it is Kim Jong Un's brand of choice – though the North Korean leader has actually been seen using the "Construction" or "Konsol" (건설) brand recently.
Steady sellers
While North Korea's main art house, Mansudae, remains under UN sanctions, art ostensibly from other producers is still for sale in Dandong as well. These paintings of Korean females have been seen for sale online by North Korean state media-affiliated sites, some under the Sogwang Art House.
Cash for sale
Tourists can also get their hands on DPRK cigarettes and souvenir North Korean money for sale by small street merchants in Dandong.
Lifestyles of the rich and...
Back in Sinuiju, it is apparent that North Koreans are also able to get their hands on expensive items, despite sanctions. Here a young couple has hired a film crew of their own, complete with their Chinese-sourced Sony professional production camera.
Off to the capital
Along the Yalu/Amnok river, a red truck with Pyongyang registration loads up presumably before a trip back to the capital.
Blocks and wires
A crane maneuvers large rolls of metal wires at a port more towards the northwest of Sinuiju. Seen in the background are stacks of large concrete blocks, which have begun to cover the port in the last year, according to satellite imagery.
Workers in the background of this image can be seen pouring concrete into various-shaped molds, the products of which can be seen stacked to the left and laid out to the right, perhaps just post-mold. It is possible they will be used to expand the port's or a neighboring port's area, as evident in the similar size and shape of the blocks under the platform seen in the image foreground in front of the docked boats.
Block port
A wide shot of the port in question, showing the scope of the blocks that have been produced there. Sinuiju's low-rise northwest appears in the background, this area home to residential structures in addition to factories, warehouses, and even a flurry of new construction.
Out on patrol
Two North Korean security personnel ride out in a police patrol boat to the left as more police boats can be seen covered with blue tarp in the background. Another small ship to the right features a JRC (Japan Radio Co.) radar system, a sun-bleached North Korean flag, and a propaganda slogan urging its passengers to "protect ... Kim Jong Un with your life!"
Harsh barge
Workers repair large pipes on the rear of an industrial barge along the riverbank of Sinuiju.
In for repairs
A large ship receives repairs to its hull while a group of men stand aboard another smaller boat under the large yellow gantry crane reading "75th anniversary 1987.4.15," signifying the date of Kim Il Sung's birth in 1912.
It seems this target practice area – using human-shaped cutouts and one appearing to resemble a person tied to a stake – may no longer be in use given the use of land up to the river's edge for gardening purposes. A propaganda sign in the background reads, "Follow the General to ten million ri".
More similar targets can be seen at this training camp on the outskirts of Sinuiju, where distance targets have again been set up in the middle of a field used to grow crops.
Back to China
Hoards of Chinese tourists cross back into China after either going to Pyongyang or even just a day trip into Sinuiju, another popular option.