Venturesome Vagabonds
The second chapter in our Waltzing Wanderers series as we chronicle our great adventure
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Busalacchi
Olá from Lisbon, Portugal
May 2, 2017 June 29, 2018 / Robin Busalacchi / 3 Comments
We're here! The stress of once again packing "our life" away in storage is behind us. We are free to enjoy the adventures ahead.
After traveling on a red-eye through the night, I was exhausted but afraid to go to bed too early and be wide awake in the middle of the night. At 8 pm, however, I surrendered. Turns out it wasn't a problem — I didn't wake up until 10:15 this morning!
Anyway, Frank and I have settled into our airbnb in Mouraria, an old, authentic Lisbon neighborhood that has recently undergone many renovations. It is a lively area of many ethnicities so there is no shortage of great little restaurants. We are also within walking distance of the river, a castle, many museums and much more. We can't wait to start exploring!
Ola from Lisbon, Portugal!
Amoraria – our home in Lisbon for the next three weeks.
Yes, the bathroom is VERY little but it works!
The view from our back window.
One of the first things we do to get settled is to scope out a local grocery store for the necessities.
Our street – Rua do Terreirinho – is a bit narrow.
Look out Frank!
Our front window…
Why, hellooooooo!
To market, to market, to buy a … to be a fat pig
May 5, 2017 August 22, 2018 / Robin Busalacchi / 3 Comments
Today we visited Mercado da Ribeira, downtown Lisbon's largest farmers market. In business since 1892, restauranteurs and locals come to haggle on a wide selection of fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses, meat, fish and flowers.
What makes the market unique is how TimeOut magazine took over and transformed half of the space into a gourmet food court. Yes, a gourmet food court. There are no fast food stands and no franchises. The Mercado hosts over 30 stalls featuring Portuguese top chefs, restaurants and shops.
Choosing what to eat was difficult. Feel like breakfast? There are cafes and tasty custard tarts. Lunch or dinner? Choose from fresh seafood, traditional Portuguese, Asian, Italian and more. Restaurants and freestanding bars offer wine, beer and other bebidas (beverages).
And the desserts . . .
We visited over a busy lunchtime but heard that the place really gets hopping around 9pm. The food pavilion is open until midnight during the week and until 2am Thursday through Saturday!
Mercado da Ribeira
Portugal boasts Europe's highest fish consumption per capita. You see sardines everywhere and cod is said to be cooked over 300 ways!
TimeOut's gourmet food court
The food pavilion features local and nationally known chefs serving up their specialties.
Chefs Table may be a bit pricey but you get a lesson along with some delicious food.
The choices are endless,
from appetizers . . .
to desserts.
This menu of Henrique Sa Pessoa, a Portuguese chef, caught our eye…
We chose the Bifana de litao crocante P'King,
a crispy skin suckling pig sandwich.
Frank also couldn't pass up this seafood place . . .
and its tasty octopus salad.
Restaurants and free-standing bars serve wine, beer . . .
and some pretty Sangria.
With most dishes being made to order . . .
the cocktails help pass the wait while you wait for your electronic thingie to light up.
Cheers to a great place!
May 6, 2017 November 4, 2019 / Robin Busalacchi / 5 Comments
I did wash today! Why is that a big deal, you ask?
Well, when visiting a city for an extended time, we prefer to book airbnbs versus hotels. For us, it's much more interesting living among the locals versus staying at a hotel among travelers. That said, without room service and a front desk, a freestanding foreign apartment/home presents its challenges.
Is that bottle full of watery liquid for dishes or for laundry? Which slot does the detergent go in and is this one of those combined washer-dryers? We like to do some of our own cooking; ovens with foreign dials offer an endless state of perplexity. Think you know how to work a thermostat? Forget about it. Every place we've stayed at was unique.
So we figure it out. As soon as we arrive, we plug in our adaptors and hook up to the Internet. There are apps for the mathematically challenged (me!) to convert temperatures from Fahrenheit to Celsius. Google an appliance model and you'll often find a translated instruction manual. You Tube videos (or calls home to your kids!) come in handy for figuring out coffee pots. Sometimes we wing it and sometimes you just have to ask.
After a week, we've identified our favorite places for bread, fresh fruit and groceries. We've discovered the walking shortcut to Frank's municipal pool. We've mastered the Metro and know not to take the bus when you're in a hurry. And, today, we did wash. Cheers to simple — yet somewhat empowering — victories!
Fairy Tale Fortress
Just outside of Lisbon, amidst the pine-covered hills, sits the Portuguese town of Sintra. The nobility and elite came here for the slightly cooler weather and they built extravagant palaces and residences. The incredible Pena Palace sits atop one of the highest hills.
The interior of the palace has been retained to how it appeared in 1910, when the Portuguese nobility fled Portugal because of the revolution.
The Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors) is an ancient castle that dates back to the Moorish era (8-12th century). It was partially restored in the 19th century to become the center piece of the Pena Palace grounds.
The historic center of the town of Sintra is quite pretty.
Traditional shops and cafes are centered around the Gothic-style National Palace.
We stopped in a Ginjinha bar for a shot of Ginja, a sweet cherry liqueur that originated in Lisbon.
The town, however, was a little touristy for our taste. We asked a local for a recommendation and left the crowds for a restaurant closer to the train station.
Even the Sintra train station was colorful!
Lovely Lisbon
May 10, 2017 November 4, 2019 / Robin Busalacchi / 1 Comment
From vividly colored buildings to stunning museums and art incubators to splashy graffiti, Lisbon is a feast for the eyes. It's a walking city and you discover a kaleidoscope at every turn. Enjoy . . .
Colorful neighborhoods
Lisbon's most photographed street is Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo.
Even the sidewalks are decorative!
Colorful snack kiosks
Spring in Lisbon
Many building are covered in beautiful Portuguese tiles, or azulejos.
Blue tiles are probably the most predominant, but after the 1755 earthquake, colorful, mass-produced tiles started appearing once more.
LX Factory. An abandoned industrial area is repurposed as a creative incubator with artist studios, hipster shops, restaurants and one of the world's prettiest bookstores…
Artist booths pop up on Sundays.
"Ler Devagar" ("Read Slowly") was named one of the 10 most beautiful bookstores in the world.
Inside, you'll find a couple bars and antique printing presses.
We discovered some familiar titles.
Feira da Ladra, Lisbon's oldest flea market
Fin-atic
May 11, 2017 November 4, 2019 / Robin Busalacchi / 3 Comments
Aquariums are a gill-ty pleasure of mine. Take me to one and I'm happy as a clam. No, sea-riously, if you think there's somefin cooler, let minnow…
SO ugly!!
Here comes the ugly fish!
Just amazed by these flat fish. You can barely see them!
Nemo!!!!!
Opened in 1998, the Oceanário was the centerpiece of the last World Fair, themed The Oceans.
It is the second largest aquarium in Europe, with more than 15,000 water-dwelling creatures. It can be accessed by a footbridge or a tram, which connects it to…
the ultra modern Parque das Nações, which was the exhibition grounds for the Fair.
Lisbon has transformed the grounds into a multi-use development with a mall, restaurants…
and areas of recreation.
Papa Pia!!!!
Portugal was very excited about the Pope coming to celebrate the centenary of the Fatima apparitions and the canonization of two saints.
For those who could not or chose not to make the pilgrimage, many churches were broadcasting the event live.
Surprisingly, the square outside the Shrine wasn't very crowded when we arrived. We came around the circular Basilica of the Holy Trinity, inaugurated in 2007, because the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary was not big enough for all the visiting pilgrims.
Once, we turned the corner into the Shrine plaza, we observed a sea of people.
The crowd was festive. Kids were singing and clapping.
These women donned clothing made from Fatima-inspired fabrics.
We were fortunate to have received approval for press passes.
This allowed us into the designated press office where we could relax and hook up to wifi.
Our designated press area was just outside. Press from around the world were in Fatima to cover the Papal visit.
We were above and removed from the crowd.
To get an idea of the space and how many people were there, view this series of six pictures…
Basilica of the Holy Trinity is shown in the back of the plaza
Circling around…
…and around…
to the heart of the Shrine, the Chapel of Apparitions…
…and coming around to the front…
to the colonnades flanking the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary
The press area was at the far end of the Shrine, just to the side of the Basilica.
We staked out a spot and spent the next two days with some really nice people. Joe from Connecticut and his mother were covering the event for the Boston Marians.
Frank and Leonardo from Brazil.
Video monitors showed the Pope landing at a nearby airbase.
He took a helicopter to the Shrine and the crowds cheered as he flew overhead.
The real excitement came when Papa Francisco entered the arena in his Popemobile.
The Pope greets the crowds.
The Pope in his Popemobile
The Pope visits the Chapel of Apparitions.
He pays homage to the Blessed Mother by presenting the traditional golden rose.
After praying with the crowd, Pope Francis exited the arena.
At night, Pope Francis returned to the arena.
Pope Francis at the Chapel of Apparitions.
Pope Francis addresses devotees before the traditional Blessing of the Candles
Blessing of the Candles ceremony
The Pope sat before Blessed Mother during the Rosary.
Assorted individuals recited the decades of the Rosary in ten different languages.
Much of the crowd disbursed for the night. Many stayed at nearby hotels. A reporter told us that some hotel room rates were 100x the normal rate!
Others camped outside the venue…
and some brought pads to sleep under the stars.
We did not have a hotel and figured we'd be sleeping in a corner like this guy…
…but fortunately the Press Room was open all night and we grabbed a couch.
We weren't the only ones who didn't have a place to sleep.
Sunrise at Fatima
As the sun came up, we were in awe of the hearty souls who braved the chilly night.
A Snickers bar, breakfast of champions.
Early morning with our friend Carlos, a photographer from Lisbon.
The Papal Mass was to be held at the altar in front of the Basilica. Tapestry banners of the children to be canonized were draped to each side of Mary.
Francisco and Jacinta Marto died three years after the apparitions. The third, Sister Lucia, died a few years ago and is currently on the path to sainthood.
Jacinta and Francisco
Frank with Father Christopher from Kalamazoo
Priestly selfie.
The bishops processed through the arena in front of the statue of Mary, which was placed near the altar.
The ascent of the bishops to their seats on the altar.
Meanwhile, Pope Francis was visiting the crypts of Francisco…
and Jacinta, inside the Basilica.
Before saying Mass, Pope Francis again paid homage to the Blessed Mother.
Pope Francis presents the Holy Scriptures during Mass
Frank watching the Papal Mass
Young people in white vestments were given white umbrellas and paired with the clergy to distribute Communion.
A priest and his accolade go out in the crowd to distribute Communion.
White umbrellas signaled access to Communion for those out in the arena.
Adoration of the Most Holy Sacrament
Pope Francis waves as the statue of Mary leaves the altar.
A sea of cheers and white cloths as Mary travels from the altar to the Chapel.
Once Mary is returned to her "home" in the Chapel of Apparitions, the Pope quietly exited the altar.
Devoted pilgrims approach the chapel on their knees as penance for their sins.
This lady was smart and wore knee pads.
The pyre at the Chapel of Apparitions
Believers throw candles and wax body parts(!) — ears, hearts, limbs — into a huge fire to pray for healing and other intentions.
A Diary: Our Two Days with the Pope
Just prior to leaving for Lisbon, I saw that Fatima (80 miles away) was celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Blessed Mother's appearance to three children. I was elated when I discovered that Pope Francis was coming to celebrate the centenary, as well as to canonize two of the children — while we were in Portugal!
I remember the joy we felt when Cardinal Bergoglio was chosen Pope. Aside from the fact that he picked the name Francis, after St. Francis of Assisi (Frank's patron saint), and that the bishops had elected a Jesuit (we're big fans!), we were awed by this man's devotion and humility. Pope Francis radiated kindness and we agreed, "This is just what the world needs right now."
I knew seeing Pope Francis would seriously make Frank's whole life so I needed to make this happen.
The online site for the Papal visit was confusing. There seemed to be no tickets and anyone who wanted to go just had to show up. That would no doubt be a madhouse as they were expecting over one million people. Time to try another route. The Fatima website provided an option for press passes. I submitted our information, along with the required letter of accreditation from a local publication, for consideration. And then we waited. And waited.
It's two days before the Pope's visit. I'm thinking that our pilgrimage is not meant to be. This afternoon, I receive an email from Santuario de Fatima!
"Prezado Sr.(a) ROBIN AND FRANK BUSALACCHI
Temos a alegria de lhe comunicar que o seu pedido de acreditação foi autorizado…
Google Translated:
"Dear ROBIN AND FRANK BUSALACCHI We are pleased to inform you that your application for accreditation has been authorized …
Wow! We immediately rush to secure bus tickets – leave early Friday afternoon to witness the Pope's arrival, return Saturday afternoon after the Papal Mass. At this late date, no hotels were available so we planned to sleep in some corner or pull an all-nighter. I asked Frank if he was up for it. "Are you kidding? This is better than box seats for the seventh game of the World Series!"
8am – Frank is like a kid on Christmas morning. He blinks the lights on and off, "We're going to see the Pope today!!!!"
We pack jam sandwiches, some hardboiled eggs and water, unsure of what to expect in the next 30 hours. A million people? What does that even look like? How close do you think we will we get? We agree — whatever happens, this is going to be phenomenal!
1pm – The Lisbon bus station is orderly and not unreasonably busy. Our comfy coach bus carries a mingling of ages and nationalities. We pass miles of parked cars as we near Fatima but there are no delays.
3pm – The bus drops us off two blocks from the Shrine. People are lining the streets in anticipation of the motorcade. Tents are pitched in fields outside the venue.
We follow signs to an adjacent building, pass the crowded Clergy Accredidation line and arrive at the Media Accredidation room. As we retrieve our press passes, the staff gives us directions to a dedicated press area and offers us coupons for a two-day press-only meal package (Cooked warm food? Goodbye jam sandwiches!).
3:30pm – From the sparsely populated outer square, we turn the corner and come upon a wall of humanity! The Shrine arena holds four to 500,000. The crowd is overflowing along the perimeters and into the streets. There's a festival atmosphere – people singing, praying and stubbornly staking a claim to their spots. We struggle to push our way through the unwavering throng to the far, opposite-end of the venue.
4:15pm – Frank and I finally arrive at the pressroom. It's a beehive of activity but there are chairs, couches, Internet and room to breathe! We walk outside to find a spot from which to watch. The press area is spacious with many open, unobstructed views, isolated from the masses pressed up against the fences like sardines. With the Church as a backdrop, in a word, this area is Heaven!
5:10pm – It's hard to describe how we feel looking out over this flock of half-a-million fellow Christians, all awaiting the arrival of our beloved spiritual leader. Cheers erupt as the Pope's helicopter flies over and as his approaching motorcade is viewed on the jumbotrons.
5:35pm – The crowd enthusiastically explodes when "Papa Francisco" enters the arena in the Popemobile! The excitement is electrifying and we can't believe we are part of this mass euphoria. The noise is deafening as he passes through the crowd to the Chapel of Apparitions. Then something truly unpredictable happens. The moment the Pope kneels before the statue of the Blessed Mother, the crowd goes completely silent. It is absolutely surreal.
Pope Francis has such a deep devotion to Mary and, although we are far away, we can feel it. He places the traditional golden rose at the base of the statue.
The volume rises when the Pope does. He prays with the crowd, who sing back their response. We don't understand Portuguese but recognize the homage to Mary, "Ave O dulcis Virgo Maria" and "Salve Regina Rosarii Fatimae." In prayer, he urges the faithful to follow in the footsteps of the young shepherds and spread peace, even in times of war. "We will tear down all walls and cross every frontier, as we go out to every periphery, to make known God's justice and peace."
Back in the Popemobile, the pilgrims applaud and wave as Pope Francis exits — so much spirituality and so much joy.
9:30pm – We thought what we experienced this afternoon could never be eclipsed. We were wrong.
Close your eyes and imagine a giant glowing rosary enveloped in a sea of several thousand candles flickering in the moonlight. You are standing shoulder to shoulder with fellow believers and the smell of burning candle wax permeates the crisp night air. And then you listen. The soothing voice of our Pope conveys a message of mercy and forgiveness. He explains the importance of a relationship with Mary, which will lead us closer to Jesus.
The Pope sits facing her statue and the Rosary begins. Various individuals recite the decades in ten different languages. It is a magical night, clearly illustrating that although we are many and different, here we are united as one.
Prayers and masses continue throughout the night. The air is getting colder. Thankfully for us, the pressroom is open all night. We grab and share a couch and try to get some rest.
6:15am – The sun is just beginning to rise. The temperature is in the low 40s and the arena is still half full. I truly admire the devotion and perseverance of those who stayed through the night. Seeing them, it's incredibly ungracious to find fault with the pressroom's bright fluorescent lighting and our pretzel-like jockeying for comfort. Frank and I were inside. We were fortunate to get some snug, uninterrupted sleep.
I set up our spot and return inside to warm up.
9:15am – The arena is full and the sun is warming things up. The choir sings as the Blessed Virgin statue is carried through the jubilant crowd to the outdoor altar in front of the Basilica. She is preceded by a parade of white-robed bishops, who take their seats.
10am – Pope Francis is escorted down the steps from the Basilica to the altar. He begins the Rite of Canonization. What an honor and privilege it is to witness the proclamation of Christianity's two newest saints, Blessed Jacinta and Francisco Marto!
Although it's in Portuguese, when the "regular" Mass begins, we are able to grasp what's happening. The cantor is a nun with the voice of an angel. The intentions, like the rosary the night before, are done in various languages.
Frank and I wonder how and if communion could be distributed to so many people. It was and how they did it was pretty slick. First, dozens of priests lined up, exited a side door, and then each returned with a chalice. After the "Lamb of God," young people in vestments were handed white umbrellas and paired with priests. The duos disbursed throughout the arena and shared communion with all who wished to receive.
When Mass is over, the Pope observes the Adoration of the Most Holy Sacrament and then retreats to give a special blessing to the sick. Upon his return, the bishops exit the altar and the procession of the Mary statue begins again.
The sea that is the crowd now has "white caps" as the faithful wave white cloths while she returns to the Chapel of Apparitions. We look up and the Pope is waving one, too! The sight is spectacular!
When Mary is "home," the Pope quietly and without fanfare, leaves the altar. We are not surprised. This Pope, who we so adore, is a humble man. He wants us to realize that this day (or the last two days) is not about him.
It's about two faith-filled children who saw the Mother of Heaven. It's about Mary who came to remind us that "God's light dwells within us and protects us." Finally, it's about all of us, "rediscovering the young and beautiful face of the Church, which shines forth when she is welcoming, free, faithful, poor in means and rich in love."
Bedlam at the Bus Station
As impressed as we were by our divine bus trip to Fatima and the heavenly decorum of the religious festivities, we found that all hell broke loose once we got back to the bus station.
Frank and I held pre-purchased, roundtrip tickets identifying our bus and seat numbers. We expected the small-town station to be crowded so we arrived a little early. It was a wall-to-wall madhouse. Frank elbowed his way inside to check the monitor. Was our bus running on time? The monitor was black.
He circled around outside and found three queues along the back wall adjacent to the lot – Porto, Coimbra, and a wider one for Lisboa – all crammed with people. He came back to get me, "We better get in line."
We found that, for today, our reserved ticket didn't mean a reserved time and seat — all it guaranteed was a ride to Lisbon, first come, first served! The queue of hundreds was claustrophobic and slow moving. And then it rained.
As buses flashing their destination arrived, those at the front of the specified line rushed out while the bus backed in and the driver opened the door. There was no bus staff controlling the number. The buses held fifty and those that didn't make it on remained in the lot.
Another bus marked Lisboa arrived and, all at once, EVERYONE from our queue surged into the lot and pressed to get onboard!!! Soon, there were thousands of people, jammed like sardines, in this tiny parking lot that held maybe six buses!
The hysterical mob blocked and rushed any incoming bus. People were shoving and yelling. Little old ladies were crying.
Bus staff and some National Guard finally muscled their way through and tried to restore order. There was none to be had. Somehow, they were able to clear a tight corridor for a couple buses, but they continued to have them back in! I still can't believe no one got run over. If you were lucky enough to be by a bus when the driver forced the door open, you might get a seat.
The guards and staff were powerless. Angry ticket-holders were screaming and tempers were flaring on both sides. Buses couldn't get in or out. It takes a lot to get me panicky but I knew this was going to get MUCH worse before it got better. I looked at Frank, "I don't care what we have to do, we're out of here."
We left the mayhem and viewed a mile+ of empty buses backed up along the street leading into the clogged station. We knew we'd be lucky if we got home by morning!
Frank and I ducked into a nearby hotel. After much effort, the kind staff tracked down a taxi driver who would take us the 80 miles back to Lisbon. It was expensive but so worth it — we were home and safe an hour-and-a-half later.
Note: This post is purposely out of chronological order as I did not want anyone to get the idea that this incident, in any way whatsoever, tarnished our two days in Fatima. In our minds, the two events are completely compartmentalized. That said, it was something we experienced as part of our adventure as a whole. When traveling, you inevitably come across obstacles and challenging situations and you have to make adjustments.
Tchau Lisbon!
May 15, 2017 November 4, 2019 / Robin Busalacchi
As we say farewell to Lisbon, here are some things you may not know about Portugal and a few more favorite sights . . . Muito obrigada Lisboa, até a próxima (Thank you very much Lisbon, see you next time!)
Saint George's Castle can be seen from almost everywhere in the city.
Its oldest sections date from the 6th century, when it was fortified by the Romans, Visigoths, and eventually the Moors.
The castle was the ancient seat of power for over 400 years. Much of the present castle dates from the 1920s when a significant restoration project was undertaken.
The views from the castle are spectacular.
Lisbon is built on seven hills. It's very walkable but those walks can be tiring!
The architecture is picturesque . . .
even the prisons are pretty!
There are many transportation options, including the iconic trams.
Tram #28 is recommended for visitors wanting to explore old Lisbon . . .
but we found it claustrophobic.
A recent addition to the transportation network are the tuk tuks. The locals find them annoying.
We were big fans of the trains and metro, which were clean and efficient.
Alfama is conglomeration of narrow streets that stretch from the River Tagus up to the castle and is the oldest section of the city. Alfama was originally the poor slums outside the city walls . . .
but today the area is fashionable and trendy. It looks similar today, except they didn't have cruise ships back then!
Alfama
Lisbon is know for its fado houses, featuring the traditional folk music.
Parts of Portugal are very modern.
You'll find great shopping.
El Corte Inglés S.A. , headquartered in Madrid, is the biggest department store group in Europe.
Lisbon has lovely city parks . . .
… and green spaces.
Like most other European cities, there are countless public squares.
One day, the square by us, Martim Moniz, was the sight of a big religious festival.
81% of Portuguese are Catholics.
They have a special reverence for the Blessed Virgin . . .
and for St. Anthony of Padua, who was born in Portugal.
The 25 de Abril Bridge connects Lisbon to the municipality of Almada on the south bank of the Tagus River. The Cristo Rei statue overlooks Lisbon from Almada.
As you'd imagine, there are many beautiful churches in Lisbon, including the Basilica Estrella.
Basilica Estrella
The 12th century Sé de Lisboa (the Cathedral) is Lisbon's oldest building and one of its most important religious sites.
Sacristy of the Cathedral
To the rear of the Sé are the ancient cloisters, which were constructed directly on top of a ruined mosque and symbolically confirmed the 13th century Catholic conquest of Portugal from the North African Moors.
This rose window was painstakingly reconstructed during the 20th century from fragments of the original window that was destroyed by the powerful earthquake of 1755. The earthquake also caused the roof to collapse on hundreds of worshipers who were packed into the cathedral to celebrate the feast of All Saints.
Mosteiro de Sao Vincente de Fora (The Monastery of St Vincent)
Cisterns of the Monastery
The hauntingly sad graves of King Carlos I and crown prince Luíz Filipe are mourned by the Queen.
The outside and inside walls of the monastery are adorned with Portuguese tiles.
We spent hours going through a series of panels illustrating scenes from LaFontaine's Fables, along with their explanations.
Pantheon (Panteao Nacional) eight "greats" are buried here and there are monuments to others.
Monument to Portugal's greatest poet, Luis de Camoes
Did you know Portugal produces half the world's cork?
The Rooster of Barcelos (Portuguese, "Galo de Barcelos") is one of the most common emblems of Portugal.
Portugal is also known for sardines. 60% is consumed fresh, the bigger and fatter the better.
Salted cod or bacalhau is a very common dish throughout Portugal and it's said there exists at least one recipe for each day of the year!
Cod stew with vegetables
It took me a while to get Frank to try the ubiquitous pastel de nata—custard tart—but I enjoyed them often. They were soooooo good!
Previously mentioned cherry Ginja
Can't wait to return!
Come along with us!
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