Doris Brynner
La Famiglia. Emilio Pucci Resort 2023
November 17, 2022 | Design & Culture by Ed
The resort 2023 line-up is Camille Miceli's next, bold chapter of Emilio Pucci's revival. The designer has already proven that she has a natural affinity for the brand, sharing a penchant for expressive style, glamour, joie de vivre, and a flair for travel. Tying all this together for Miceli is the idea of La Famiglia, the tight-knitted Italian lifestyle which is a kind of precursor to today's widespread concept of community. "For me Pucci evokes a family of people spending time together, to enjoy life, parties, and well-being." The cross-seasonal collection covered a wide-ranging spectrum of pleasurable activities – weekends on the slopes, sun-kissed holidays in seaside destinations, celebrations, and various moments of day/night fun. Miceli wants the travel-loving, generations-spanning Pucci famiglia to be dressed not only to impress, but to express the self-confidence and lust for life with which she herself is abundantly imbued. The lineup reads as a flexible, adaptable proposition, festive and mood-lifting as well as suited for an efficient, fast-paced everyday life. Miceli worked a round, egg-shaped silhouette inspired by the swirls of the blown-up archival prints she has reinterpreted. Short padded nylon puffers, midriff-baring drop-shaped foulard tops, and patineuse swinging miniskirts and blouses with ballooning sleeves all conveyed the slightly trippy roundness of Pucci's curlicued motifs. Counterbalancing the bold all-over-printed effect, Miceli introduced optic white and deep black as eye-soothing alternatives, playing with cool proportions and alternating silhouettes, either voluminous or form-fitting. Archival stripes were a new introduction, as was gold leather, which highlighted the bold glamour Miceli is after. It was particularly appealing rendered in a shiny patchworked bolero, worn by Malgosia Bela, who was part of an age-diverse cast of beauties, whose undisputed queen was the rarely photographed, camera-shy Doris Brynner. "I'm so proud and honored she accepted to do it for us," said a delighted Miceli, who surely scored high in having such an age-defying legend join the ever-growing Pucci famiglia.