The Monocle Hungary guide
Tyler Brûlé takes stock of where we are now and how we should move forwards. Let's go!
Whether your preferred method of travel is a leisurely paddle around Hong Kong, strapping on in-line skates to risk life and limb in Canada or a supremely stylish bike ride in Milan, there's plenty to inspire in the following pages. Oh, and there's an ode to a slower pace of life – so why not choose a path less trodden? It's time to get a move on.
Fareed Zakaria is a CNN host, columnist for 'The Washington Post' and bestselling author. He's a busy man with a busy mind. But there's one place in New York where he can always go to collect his thoughts: the leafy enclave of Riverside Park. You'll find him jogging, strolling or simply contemplating his green surroundings.
Whether by plane, train or e-tractor, cities and nations are rising to the challenge of getting the world from A to B.
Bosphorous blues
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Affairs Briefing
Trump brings the fight to mayors, how India tested China's resolve with a road, Germany learns from medical evacuations and the evolving role of landscaping.
Calling the tune
This summer, our Monocle 24 radio station is broadcasting interviews with key thought leaders from across the globe. Here we revisit 10 of the most insightful so far, from political leaders to newspaper editors, humanitarians to architects.
Good spot
Even in a suppressed economy, opportunity is everywhere. We meet the residents of Nicosia who are forging their own path and highlight cities on the up.
Why the future of mobility is more pedestrian than we think – and long-distance doctors.
On the right track?
Where's my parcel? How far have I run? Where have I been? The desire to track and trace everything is booming. But have we become slaves to these apps and devices – and do they really deliver on their promises?
There's a newfound appetite for reliable news and positive storytelling. We meet the people aiming to feed it.
As this unusual summer turns to autumn it seems that the most striking cultural offerings around reflect the times. From a spooky take on the civil rights-era US to alien hunters, dystopian societies, catastrophe and, yes, Japanese electropop, our pick of what's good for the eyes, ears and mind has a thrilling, otherworldly feel. Get ready for a stroll along the road less travelled.
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Design Briefing
A round-up of the industry headlines, from the Danish architects reimagining the concept of play to the best furniture releases you might have missed this summer.
The Monocle shop
We're here to kit you out with a versatile collection of clothes and accessories whatever the weather. Choose a polo for sunny days, a jacket for balmy evenings or a button-down for work – these pieces can be mixed and matched, and dressed up or down.
Plate expectations
We make for the shoreline of the Baltic in Stockholm, where Tommy Myllymäki opened Aira earlier this year. In a berth in a boathouse-style structure, this restaurant serves haute cuisine without starchy service or New Nordic strictures. This isn't a spot for a forgettable lunch; it's a fresh take on destination dining.
Food and Drink Briefing
Food-focused finds from Hong Kong to Vienna, and three companies providing meals on wheels.
My Last Meal: Jim Muir
The veteran British correspondent in the Middle East settles into a favourite Beirut haunt to discuss covering Lebanon's civil war, opening an office in Tehran and how Twitter changed journalism – as well as his enduring appetite for the region's food.
Sole focus
Hit the ground running this autumn in style-savvy trainers that are fit for the city.
Denim production once defined US textile manufacturing but a focus on quantity over quality nearly snuffed it out. Now Vidalia Mills is bucking the fast-fashion trend. We meet the founders of the first denim mill to open in the country this century.
From Japan to Spain, we uncover fashion's top moments and discover why bricks and mortar done well will always bring in the crowds.
On the move? Whether you're getting into your stride on foot or hitting the town on two wheels, now is the time to travel in style – and the residents of Munich are leading the way.
Small wonder
Looking for an escape that feels a world away from the usual islands and crowded beaches? The autonomous Åland Islands between Finland and Sweden have great food, peerless shops and long days of sunshine.
Travel briefing
We focus on a selection of the planet's finest new hotels and drop in on the shop that sells everything you'll need to capture the moment once you get to them.
Room for all
The Danish capital's latest hotel venture pays homage to its past life as the city's central post office. It gets our stamp of approval.
As the world gets moving again, it's time for us to pick up the pace. Here's our selection of the sports and fitness attire to help you shift into a higher gear – and look good while you're at it.
France's raffish second city hides a sun-bleached natural charm behind its sometimes disreputable image. We take to Marseilles' lesser-known locales and head out along the coast to discover its salty, breezy celebration of humble tradition and ritzy Midi life.
Hungary for more?
The Magyars, as Hungarians are sometimes known, landed in the Carpathian Basin a millennium ago – and you can see why they stayed. The Central European nation has surprises aplenty. There's never been a better time to take the road less trodden.
Laying down routes
Searching for places that are untrampled by mass tourism, where the wines are well made and well priced, we recommend a trip or two beyond Hungary's capital to its surrounding regions.
City of culture and charm
Although this guide focuses on the lesser known parts of Hungary, most international visitors will travel through the nation's postcard-pretty capital of fairy-tale castles and soaring spires. Here we suggest the top tables, best hotels and a few key cultural venues within a city rightly referred to as the Pearl of the Danube. Enjoy your stay.
Look north
Don't let Pannonhalma's quiet demeanour fool you: this small town of 4,000 – 130km west of the capital and close to the borders of Slovakia and Austria – is one of Hungary's most important centres of wine-making. Here we explore the town and its surrounding region.
Better lake than never
Lake Balaton is the closest that landlocked Hungary comes to having a seaside and the mood here is one of maritime merriment, thanks to boating, watersports and swimming when the mercury rises. The towns on the lake's north bank are some of the nation's most picturesque.
Don't miss the south
In Hungary's southern reaches, the landscape becomes wilder, flatter and more remote.
This sinuous stretch of the Danube above Budapest (and just half an hour's drive away) offers gentle views and forests where visitors can hike, swim and canoe – or explore its towns by ferry or on foot. The locals call it Dunakanyar.
Mountain escape
The city of Eger is a jumping-off point to explore the highlights of northern Hungary, from treks to the country's highest peaks to dips in the area's curative waters.
The Tokaj region may be synonymous with sweet wine but this green patch of eastern Hungary has much more in the cellar, on the plate and beyond.
A taste of the action
Wine tastings naturally dominate any visitor's agenda in Tokaj but cultural and outdoor options abound. And when you've finished with the action there's still time to hoist a glass.
Our top trips and treats
From a hike that will reward you with a spectacular view to our recommendations for tasty bites and delectable sips, here's how to make the most of your time in Hungary.
Lake Balaton / Balaton and nearby
Veszprem
The gateway to Lake Balaton, Veszprem takes its name from a Slavic word meaning "stubborn", which captures its character nicely. Few cities balance heavy industry with finesse and culture as well as this one. Located on the top corner of the lake's northern shore, the town's multicultural heritage is woven into its vernacular. That potent mix of Hungarian, Slavic and Austrian influences is evident in Veszprem's main cobblestone thoroughfare, Var, which is flanked by listed buildings and churches, and offers a stunning viewpoint over the city. Dubniczay-palota, once an aristocratic residence, now showcases Hungary's thriving contemporary art scene through artists such as Dora Maurer and Csaba Kis Roka.
North-shore notables:
Fricska Etteremlakas: This airy Veszprem restaurant has plenty of outdoor seating.
fricska.org
Theodora-kert Vendeglo: A colourful pub run by Laszlo Timar, a true character and expert on the area.
BazsaLicom Bisztro: This relaxed bistro pours some great wine.
bazsalicomfoodtruck.com
Anna Grand Hotel: A former imperial resort in Balatonfured near the marina and promenade.
annagrandhotel.hu
Pap Wines
In the best possible taste
The Hungarian terroir rewards the intrepid but it takes gusto to make wine with a difference. Partners Karina Vissonova and Aron Molnar (known as Papa Aron) started their business 10 years ago and celebrated their first vintage of pinot noir in 2014. Today the pair's simple vegetarian restaurant (try a glass of olaszrizling with a French pizza) is a draw for in-the-know visitors from Budapest to Bratislava. "Sometimes people just drive down for dinner and then go back," says Vissonova, who also runs a design school.
papwines.com
Herend Porcelain Manufactory
Ornamental charm
Herend's most in-demand products might be its folksy animal figurines but its patrons include the UK's royal family. The creations have long been a mark of craft and status among Europe's nobility, to the point where some decorative patterns are named after them. Perhaps the most famous is the Rothschild pattern, depicting birds playing with a pearl necklace, which appears on various items of crockery. The manufacturing process hasn't changed much since the mid-19th century – most of the work is still done by hand and many workers are graduates of an on-site school. A guided tour offers a behind-the-scenes glimpse, while the factory's old site across the road showcases its most precious creations.
herend.com
Balatonfured resort
Laid-back lakeside
The resort capital of Balaton's northern shore, 20km south of Veszprem, Balatonfured has a Mediterranean feel. The effect is enhanced by the marinas and sunburnt villas (the town's architectural gems date back to when it was a meeting place for the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy). Blaha Lujza street offers respite from the crowds with good eating and frequent live music. Tihany Peninsula, a 10-minute drive away, is home to an eponymous 11th-century abbey. The views here are not to be overlooked.
Field of vision
Sculptor Imre Veszpremi was known for his captivating and often unnerving creations but the Human Comedy Group of Sculptures standing aloof in an open field overlooking Lake Kornyi might be his most powerful work. The view's not bad either.
Balaton Uplands
While the southern shore of Balaton is flat, the northern side is all gently sloping hills and low hillocks covered with vineyards and orchards crisscrossed by trekking routes. It is not surprising that this scenery inspired generations of Hungarian artists. There are natural wonders to boot: the Hegyestu geological park and the Heviz thermal baths further down the lake are a must-visit. The village of Koveskal is a great base for excursions throughout the surrounding Kali Basin, much of which is a national park.
Kali Art Inn
Owners (and couple) Julia Molnar and Robert Hejja consider themselves part and parcel of the region's artistic tradition: that's why there's a small contemporary gallery attached to the property, while parts of the inn were once a magnet for painters (one of its 15 rooms is a former art studio). Guests can also take a painting class (and enjoy the occasional theatrical performance). Add to that the pleasing design and the homely atmosphere, and you will understand why the hotel is often booked up.
kaliartinn.hu
Dive right in
Boat rentals abound wherever you approach the shore but Tihany and Siofok (accessible by a short ferry) are best for yachting. Balaton is shallow and narrow – very strong swimmers can power from one side to the other. But as it's 77km long, the best way to explore its shores by boat. Esterhazy Beach in Balatonfured is perfect if you are staying in town but if you don't mind the short drive (or a longish walk), Plage 18 is hard to beat. The handsome restaurant on Tihany Peninsula doubles as a beach club and has gazebos for hire.