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How to Buy a Carnival Mask in Venice
Meg Jernigan, Leaf Group
Carnival masks were worn almost year-round in 18th-century Venice. (Photo: Medioimages/Photodisc/Photodisc/Getty Images )
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Whether they are simple masks that hide the face or more elaborate productions accented with jewels and feathers, Venetian carnival masks take days to make and sometimes cost hundreds of dollars. Craftsmen in Venice, Italy, open their studios to the public for travelers interested in learning how the masks are made, and small shops around the city sell an almost infinite variety of masks.
Decide whether you're buying a mask for display or to wear, as some masks are designed only for decorative use. Familiarize yourself with the different mask designs, many of which, such as the simple Colombina or long-nosed Scaramouche, spring from the characters of commedia dell'arte. Less-traditional masks feature jewels, ribbons and fantastical shapes. Pick up a copy of "Venetian Masks," published by Arsenale Editrice, for a quick introduction to the history of masks and commedia dell'arte.
Plan your shopping for times when Venetian stores are open. Most shops remain closed in the morning on Monday, and many observe a traditional two-hour afternoon break when shops close and workers take a long lunch. The best time to shop is after 3:30 p.m.
Head to the area around Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paulo in Castello, the largest of Venice's six districts, for a wide selection of carnival mask purveyors. The Basilica (basicasantigiovanniepaolo.it), consecrated in 1430, is the burial site of 25 of the doges, or heads of state, of Venice. Works by Italian masters, such as Paolo Veronese and Giovanni Bellini, are on display.
Stop by the Laboratorio Artigiano Maschere (no website; Barbaria della Tole; Castello; 39-041-522-3110), a mask-making shop specializing in commedia dell'arte masks. The proprietor, a former puppeteer, makes traditional masks from papier-mache and leather. Ca' del Sol (cadelsolmascherevenzia.com), a collective of mask makers a few blocks away, works in papier-mache, metal, leather and ceramic. The company offers five-day courses in carnival mask making that begin with the creation of a clay mold and end with decoration.
Walk south to Piazza San Marco, or St. Mark's Square, one of the most recognizable locations in Venice, for an afternoon coffee on the plaza, and then cross the Grand Canal on the Ponte dell'Accademia to visit Mondonovo (mondonovomaschere.it). Artisans produce more than 800 different masks, including ones used in movies by directors Franco Zeffirelli and Stanley Kubrick. A stroll through the neighborhoods of Dorsoduro brings shoppers to Tragicomica (tragicomica.it) in Vecchio, where the proprietor sticks to traditional mask making.
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Carta Alta Maschere Veneziane
Carnival mask aficionados who can't make it to Venice can order direct from local vendors, such as Carta Alta Maschere Veneziane (cartaalta.com).
Ask the shopkeeper to pack the mask for air travel.
Carnival masks are available in many areas in Venice. Don't limit your shopping strictly to major mask shops.
Beware of the cheap knockoff masks produced for tourists.
Meg Jernigan has been writing for more than 30 years. She specializes in travel, cooking and interior decorating. Her offline credits include copy editing full-length books and creating marketing copy for nonprofit organizations. Jernigan attended George Washington University, majoring in speech and drama.
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