Navigating through your computer using the TAB key is not fun. Replace a broken trackpad using this guide.
Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.
Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?
The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).
I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.
Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.
I performed this on my MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2011), model A1370. Rather than using the spudger to un-attach the batter connector, I gripped either side with my fingers as the second photographs indicated, and gently pry/wiggled it up and out by initially pinching into the side gap with my finger nails. The reason I did it this way is that the spudger works by leverage and I was afraid to rest it against the components surrounding the connector. The photos and instructions are excellent and illustrate the maneuver perfectly.
Hello there... In my case by battery exploded.... Can I still try to change it using these instructions?
The instruction to lift the edges of battery connector before disconnecting is certainly not clear. In my case, the cconnector pins came off the board with the battery, requiring further costly repairs. I would suggest that this instruction be more specific and include a caution.
It worked fine for me, but as others mentioned, you need to be careful to remove the battery connector from the motherboard connector and not accidentally remove the motherboard connector from the motherboard itself.
Additionally, on reassembly, I found that quit a bit of pressure was needed to get the new battery's connector to snap in place. More than I was comfortable applying, but it was necessary and it worked without a problem.
In my case the screw points connecting the old battery the case had fractured or broken. The broken bits needed to be cleaned out of the case before installing the replacement battery. Didn't want any loose fragments rattling about inside.
What if new battery comes with what looks like plastic around the 6 cells?
I'm having trouble reconnecting the pins to the new battery cable. Any suggestions?
The cable on my new battery needed to be massaged to reconnect with the pins. Use your old battery as an example for how the cable should sit in the empty space.
In my case, the replacement battery cable was quite stiff. In order to properly connect it to the logic board, BEFORE screwing the battery into the board, I carefully bent the cable and I connected it to the board. AFTER connecting the cable, carefully move the part of the batter closest to the logic board into place, and take care of those screws first.
Need a description of why and how much to adjust the sensitivity screw. Do you need to put the screw back to its original position?
I agree with andresaldana - it feels like just about all the T5 Torx screws in this model are actually T6 - a much snugger fit. Is there a more official record of whether these Torx screws are T5 or T6?
Mine popped off too but I managed to get it back on. The clip has two very small bumps on the side that goes down the way so look for them when trying to re-attach it.
Mine broke too when re-inserting the cable, had to order a new trackpad because of this. Couldn't get it back in and broke off a small piece of plastic trying to fix the latch. I ordered a new trackpad. I really don't hope this happens with the new trackpad.
Note on the two ZIF connections. The smaller connection has it's ZIF lock toward the front of the laptop while the wider ZIF connection faces the KB. I busted the keyboard connections thinking the ZIF was in the opposite direction. Had to replace it with a new trackpad.
I have found that I was able to wiggle the cables out of the ZIFs carefully. idk if this works for all ZIF connections and I'd love to hear anyone who has an opinion on removing ZIF cables. But this makes it much easier to remove and not break the ZIF connections.
I work with a Magnifier with a light. Blowing up the subject so you have it really magnified to a high degree helps enormously. I have removed and reattached many zif cables successfully without a hitch. Act like a surgeon.
Worked fine. Even the keyboard ZIF Cable. Reinserting it was bit tricky.
I had a bit of trouble getting the keyboard cable back in before noticing that it needs to be off the surface of the trackpad to slide in. The whole arrangement is awkward; just be patient and take it slowly.
The trackpad sold to me by ifixit did not come with the little hinge plates. I had to remove the six other screws and transfer these to the new trackpad. If this is based on using the part as sold here then the photo needs to be corrected to show the six red circles on the phillips screws that are on the trackpad and not on the Mac itself. These are installed quite tightly and I nearly destroyed two of them (on the body side as indicated in the photo) using the correct tool. The six that screw into the trackpad are much more gently installed. I don't think you are generally supposed to remove the six to the chassis of the MBA. Please update this to correct this - UNLESS THE PART FROM APPLE INCLUDES THESE TWO HINGE PLATES AND SCREWS. In that case, please INDICATE THIS difference in the text of the article. It added work and a bit of stress when the two screws were nearly trashed and I realized the new part did not come with replacements. Not good. However, this was otherwise a very easy project. THANKS!
+1 On this comment. The trackpad replacement kit from iFixit does NOT include the hinge plates. The hinge plates must be removed from the removed from the old trackpad (and the additional six screws holding in place). There is the need to replace 12 screws total in this step AND the removal of the old hinge plates to re-use, and re-install on the new, replacement trackpad assembly. This is a critical miss in this step's directions.
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Bought a T5 screwdriver. Screws on my Macbook Air late 2011 won't turn. I thought one was unscrewing but as it turned out, I was just destroying the screw so it is now stuck forever and I'll never be able to open this thing. Great, I really do have an aluminium pile of trash now.
that list the correct screw size #000 for the track pad and also shows the correct battery connector for my 2011 13" MacBook Air.
The case screws are P5 pentalobe and not torx T5. The battery screws are torx T5.
Anyone had the same problem and know how to fix it?
i did all this and now the computer won't turn on. What could've gone wrong?