Where does my pet get fleas from?
The most common flea found on cats and dogs is the cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis).
Your pet can get fleas directly from another animal or from the environment where infested animals have been. Fleas live and feed on animals but the female lays eggs which fall off into the environment. Under favourable conditions these eggs develop first into larvae and then into pupae. The pupae contain adult fleas which lie in wait for a suitable animal host. Modern carpeted centrally heated homes provide ideal conditions for the year round development of fleas. The highest numbers of flea eggs, larvae and pupae will be found in areas in the house where pets spend most time such as their beds, the furniture and so forth. Even though fleas may be in your house you probably won't see them; the eggs are too small to see without magnification and the larvae which are just visible migrate deep down into carpets, furniture or cracks in floors away from the light. The flea life cycle is most active in the warm, humid months, so fleas are worst in late Spring, Summer and Autumn.
•	Some animals develop an allergy to flea bites. If these pets are exposed to fleas they groom or scratch excessively and develop skin disease, typically so-called 'miliary' or flea allergy dermatitis.
•	Adult fleas live on animals and feed on blood. In the very young and debilitated animals this may cause anaemia. With heavy infestation this flea-anaemia can be life-threatening.
•	The flea acts as the intermediate host for the tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). Tapeworm eggs which are shed within tapeworm segments in the faeces are eaten by flea larvae which develop into infected fleas. Pets become infested by eating infected fleas during grooming. Any animal with fleas is likely also to have a tapeworm infestation.
This can be a demanding task and requires a three pronged approach. Fleas need to be eliminated from your pet, from any other cats and dogs that you own and from your home. Even this rigorous approach may not give 100% control as there are other sources of fleas that are not amenable to your control such as other people's pets, wild animals and infested environments which your pet may come into contact with outside your house.
Many products have limited effectiveness because they only work for a few hours after application. This is particularly a problem with flea shampoos and powders; they kill fleas present on your pet at the time of application but have little residual effect so the day after use your pet may again have fleas. We recommend you treat your pet with a prescription product available from veterinarians which provide residual effectiveness for up to four weeks. We do not recommend Flea collars, they may be very convenient but they don't work well enough to cope in the face of an infested environment or provide sufficient control for a flea allergic pet. Some pets will develop a skin reaction to collars and can be dangerous for outdoor cats to wear as they have no quick release catch. There are several insecticides which are formulated as "spot ons"; these contain a small volume of liquid which is applied onto your pet's skin on the back of its neck.
We recommend Indorex insecticide spray for use on the house, as it covers a large area and provides residual effect for up tot 12 months. You should obviously spray in places where the flea eggs, larvae and pupae are likely to be. It is worth initially going over the whole of the house and then concentrating on the hot spots - your pet's favourite spots - such as soft furniture, beds and carpets. Once they hatch from the egg, flea larvae move away from the light deep into carpets and into other nooks and crannies and it can be difficult to get insecticides into these places. So be sure to move cushions and to move furniture and beds to spray underneath. Other places liked by larvae are skirting boards and the cracks in wooden floors.
Your pet's bedding should be regularly washed at a high temperature or replaced. Regular and thorough vacuuming of your carpets, floors and soft furnishings can remove a large proportion of the flea eggs, larvae and pupae which are present in your home. You will need to throw away and preferably burn the dust bag to prevent eggs and larvae developing in there. Vacuuming prior to the application of a spray to the house is recommended because the vibrations will encourage newly developed fleas to emerge from pupae which will then be killed by the insecticide.
ALWAYS READ PRODUCT LABELS CAREFULLY - apply as instructed, use the quantity suggested and repeat at the intervals stated.
A flea control programme needs to be individually tailored and take into account your reasons for doing flea control and the lifestyle of your cat and other pets. Your veterinary nurse with their knowledge of the advantages and limitations of the products available is the best person to advise you about this.
Insecticides for flea control should be safe both for animals and humans provided the manufacturer's instructions are carefully followed. One should be particularly careful to avoid combining insecticides with similar modes of action. Always seek your vet's advice if you are unsure about this and always tell your vet about any flea control products you may be using other than those which he has prescribed.
Certain types of pets (e.g. fish, amphibia, reptiles, birds and invertebrates) may be particularly susceptible to some products. Do not use any flea control products in the room in which these pets are kept without first consulting your vet for advice.
Rabbits can get fleas too, but take care when treating your pet rabbit. There are very few products available which are safe to use on your rabbit. For further advice on using flea treatments for your rabbit, contact the clinic.
Should you treat for fleas when you can't see them?
Fleas are easy to find if your pet is heavily infested. If fleas are present in smaller numbers it can be harder to see them and they move fast. Try looking on the belly, around the tail base and around the neck. Sometimes adult fleas cannot be found but "flea dirt" can be seen. This is faecal matter from the flea which contains partially digested blood and is a good indicator of the presence of fleas. Flea dirt is small black specks or coiled structures; if you are not sure place them on damp white tissue and they will dissolve leaving a reddish brown blood residue. Flea dirt may be found in bedding even when they cannot be found on your pet.
In cats that develop an allergy to fleas one of the symptoms is excessive grooming. Cats are very efficient at removing debris from their coat's using their tongues and may succeed in removing all evidence of flea infestation i.e. adult fleas and flea dirt. One of the commonest causes of feline allergic skin disease is flea allergy. To investigate this possibility your vet may advise rigorous flea control even though no fleas can be found. If the cat's skin problem improves with flea control then it suggests that flea allergy is involved.
Should you worm your pet if they have fleas?
Yes, pets' which have had fleas are at high risk of getting tapeworms as mentioned above. Fleas are carriers of these worms; a flea can easily be ingested from your pet grooming their coat after which your pet will then become infected with tapeworms. People are also at risk of becoming infected with worms from infected animals. We advise all pets to be routinely wormed every three months or more frequently if they are at higher risk of exposure. People are also at risk of becoming infected with worms. Your veterinary nurse will be able to best advise you on appropriate products available for your pet.
This section contains some helpful basic information about flea control.