Notes from the Test Kitchen--Recipes and Kitchen Tips That Work 


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February 15, 2008
IN THIS E-MAIL

Bolognese Sauce (ATK Video) | 
				Maple-Glazed Roast Pork Loin | 
				Make-Ahead Entertaining Menu | 
				Freezer Chicken Enchiladas | 
				Nonstick Aluminum Foil |
				Podcast |
				What Is the Difference Between Cornmeal and Polenta? |
				Freezer Biscuits 





VIDEO RECIPE: Bolognese Sauce
				A traditional Bolognese Sauce requires hours of slow simmering, so we wanted to create a thick, robust version that was worth the time. We found that using a mixture of chuck, pork, and veal gave us the richest meat flavor, while adding milk before any other cooking liquid tenderized the meat and provided just the right amount of dairy flavor.
				
RECIPES: Maple-Glazed Roast Pork Loin
				When testing recipes for this savory-sweet roast, we found that the glazes often present problems. Most are too thin and sweet, and few have a pronounced maple flavor. We hit upon an easy technique to intensify the maple taste: reduce the syrup in the same skillet used to brown the roast. If you happen to have leftover pork, our recipe for Cuban Sandwiches easily re-creates this sandwich-shop classic at home, without a sandwich press.				
				
MENU: Make-Ahead Entertaining Menu
				This rustic beef stew should contain all the flavors of Provenceâolive oil, olives, garlic, wine, herbs, oranges, tomatoes, mushrooms, and anchoviesâbut it often ends up tasting like a flat, one-note dish. To avoid this, don't be tempted to omit the anchovies or the salt pork. The pork contributes richness and the anchovy fillets add surprising depth without any fishy flavor. Serve with:
				
Creamy Polenta
Mixed Green Salad
Individual Raspberry-Pistachio Buckles


RECIPE: Freezer Chicken Enchiladas 
				Streamlined and freezer-worthy, these make-ahead chicken enchiladas are a great option for a weeknight meal. One unexpected discovery: taking the enchiladas straight from the freezer to the oven not only saves time, but also prevents soggy tortillas.
				

TESTING: Nonstick Aluminum Foil
				Does nonstick aluminum foil live up to its name? We tested the foilâwhich is coated on one side (the dull side) with a foodâsafe nonstick material-by lining a pan of notoriously sticky raspberry bars with it. Once baked and cooled, we peeled the foil away from the normally super-adhesive jammy edges with ease.

				

PODCAST:
				We've just launched our first video podcast, which features recipes and tips from Cook's Illustrated. To subscribe to the podcast, go to the iTunes store. You can find the recipes from recent episodes here.

				

KITCHEN TIP: What is the Difference Between Cornmeal and Polenta?
				Polenta is simply the Italian name for cornmeal. Although there are cornmeals on the market made specifically for polenta, you can use any cornmeal you wish. The key is the grind. We find that medium-grind cornmeal, or one with a texture similar to granulated sugar, makes the best cooked polenta.
				

RECIPE: Freezer Biscuits
				This is a light and fluffy cut biscuit that can be made well in advance and stored in the freezer, just like the frozen biscuits sold at supermarketsâonly better. The biscuit dough will not bake well unless it's frozen.
				
Makes about 24 biscuits

				Try to cut out as many biscuits as possible each time the dough is patted out; each additional batch of cut biscuits will look more rustic. Obviously, these biscuits do not need to be baked at the same time, but rather can be baked as desired. The unbaked biscuit dough cannot be stored in the refrigerator. 
				

6  	cups  unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for the counter
2  	tablespoons  sugar
2  	tablespoons  baking powder
1 1/2  	teaspoons  salt 
4 1/2  	cups  heavy cream


Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper (if your baking sheets are small, you may need to use 2); set aside. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl. Stir in the cream with a wooden spoon until a dough forms, about 30 seconds. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and gather into a ball. Knead the dough briefly until smooth, about 60 seconds, adding extra flour as needed if the dough is too sticky.
Pat the dough into a 3/4-inch-thick circle. Cut out the biscuits using a 2 1â2-inch round biscuit cutter. Lay the biscuits on the prepared baking sheet, spaced about 1/2 inch apart. Gather up the scraps of dough and reknead them briefly to combine, then pat the dough again into a 3/4-inch-thick round and cut more biscuits; repeat this process again for a third time. You can either discard any remaining bits of dough or gently pat them into rustic hand-formed biscuits.
To Store: Wrap the baking sheet tightly with greased plastic wrap and freeze the biscuits until frozen solid, about 6 hours. Transfer the frozen biscuits to a large zipper-lock bag and freeze for up to 1 month. (Do not thaw before baking.)
To Serve: Adjust an oven rack to the upper-middle position and heat the oven to 450 degrees. Lay the biscuits on a parchment-lined baking sheet, about 2 inches apart, and bake until puffed and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. (If baking a large amount of biscuits, spread them out over 2 baking sheets and bake the sheets separately; do not bake both sheets at the same time.) Serve hot.


This newsletter brings together recipes, equipment and ingredient ratings, and advice from America's Test Kitchen, including our public television show, Cook's Illustrated and Cook's Country magazines, and our cookbooks.
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