It should fit across the inside top of the window opening.


Screw (or otherwise provide for attaching) the 1x1 to the window frame.

You cannot inside-mount on French doors.

;
, While these can be made with light weight materials, decorator weight is ideal.


"Decorator weight" is a bit heavier -- think the weight of a tablecloth.
 Add an inch (2.54 cm) in both height and width to the size of the window opening.


The extra material is for seam allowances.
Outer fabric can be cut a little wider so that it "wraps" around each side as a margin on the back side of the shade.
 Make sure printed or "right" sides are facing.


You may want to sew fabric tape to the lining fabric to make channels for inserting the battens rather than gluing (as noted in following steps).
 Leave several inches open for turning the fabric "right" side out when done.


Miter (cut off) the seam allowances at the corners so that it will turn cleanly and it won't bunch up in the corner.
If outer fabric is wider to create a margin on the back, sew the sides together.
Hem the bottom by hand and use iron-on hem tape at the top; it will not be seen.



As you iron, take care that the front (or "focus" fabric) covers the lining fabric at the edges so that the lining fabric does not show.
 Sew a strip of Velcro across the top of edge of the material.


This will be used later to attach the fabric to the wood.
 Make marks where you want the horizontal pleats/folds to fall.


Glue "battens" or thin strips of stiffening material horizontally across your fabric at the pleat marks.
Some shade makers will unpick the seams at the sides of the shade fabric and slide the battens between the layers to hide them.
Some batten materials could include: old mini-blinds slats, 1/8 metal rods, furring strips, paneling trip strips, etc.
While you can do without these battens, you may be sadly disappointed in the sag of your shade pleats without them.
 This should take around 20 minutes.


Or, as stated above, stitch pockets for the battens to slide into, by sewing parallel lines across the shade at the pleat marks.
 Space them evenly in at least two vertical lines.


Most fabric stores will sell a cotton tape with plastic loops already attached for this purpose, saving a step.
Take care to fasten the loops securely to the shade.
 They should be twice the height of the window in length.


Tie the cord(s) securely to the bottom loop on each vertical line of loops.
Thread the cords vertically through the sewn-on loops.
Insert a screw-eye bolt to the 1x1 at each point where the vertical lines touch it.
 Use either Velcro or staples.
 Keep fabric laying flat and run each of the cords through their own screw-eye at the top.


Run all cords through all screw eyes at the top to bring them all over to one side to be used for raising and lowering the shade.
Knot cords together just beyond the last screw-eye and "train" the fabric to fall in neat folds.
Press with an iron, if desired.
Pull the cord gently and "train" the fabric to fall in neat folds.
Press with an iron again, if desired.
 Battens do the job for you!
Cut a piece of 1x1 wood.
Select your fabric and lining material.
Cut the fabric.
Pin both layers together.
Sew around the perimeter.
Turn the fabric right side out and iron it flat.
Slip stitch the opening closed.
Measure and mark the horizontal lines.
Allow the glue to dry.
Sew the plastic loops to the battens.
Measure and cut two lengths of cord.
Attach the top of the shade to the 1x1.
Thread your pull cord through the eye bolt.
Keep your fold lines clean and neat.
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