Try building a 5 weight rod that is 9 feet (2.7 m) long.  Most rod blanks are four pieces, which is very convenient for storage. Here are a few key things to consider:


Type of fish
Location of fish
Size of fish
Size of fly;
, Many reputable fly shops sell rod building kits. This is highly recommended; fly shops are great sources of information. The kit will have all the pieces required to make a nice rod.
 Every fly rod has a spine. The spine is a thick section of the rod blank. Put some masking tape on the blank a couple inches from each end. To find the spine you roll the rod blank in your hands with a slight downward pressure and mark the the point you feel the blank rise up in your hands. Do this on all sections of the rod blank.
 This is done by gluing the reel seat to the base section of the fly rod blank with two-part epoxy.
 Make sure the handle is fully "bedded" in epoxy. This will eliminate squeaks between the blank and cork.
 The end cap is glued onto the bottom of the reel seat. Be careful not to get epoxy on the threads of the reel seat.


The rod is starting to take shape now. It's best to install the winding check at this time (before wrapping any of the guides). The wraps will permanently secure the winding check so use the epoxy sparingly when attaching. A mess would be bad.
 The tip top needs to align with the marks you made identifying the spine of the rod. Be sure to test fit the tip top first then mix some epoxy and glue it on.
 The guides should be smoothed before being wrapped.  The best way to smooth the guides is with sandpaper or a small file. Round all the edges so the finished product will be smooth. This is a quality of a good rod.
 Put all the rod sections together and line up the marks you earlier. Using a tape measure mark the guide positions starting at the tip top and measuring down to the handle. Mark the positions according to the guide chart supplied with the rod kit. Most 9 foot (2.7 m) rods have nine guides. Each guide needs to be within ¼" of the specification in the guide chart.
 Cut masking tape into ¼" wide pieces and tape the guides onto the rod. The largest guides are closest to the handle and the size reduces as you approach the tip top. With all the guides taped into position sight down the rod to be sure the guides are in alignment.
 Try to keep the wraps tight to each other and tie off the ends by wrapping them underneath the wraps.
 Wrapping at each of these locations adds strength to the rod.
 Look at each wrap and make sure it is tight, and all the guides line up. Slide or wiggle the guide if it doesn't quite line up. You want to make sure everything is perfectly straight and true.
 Only apply finish to three or four guides at a time. The finish will start to thicken and won't spread well if you finish more than four guides. Take you time and be patient.
 This way the finish won't sag. Keep turning for three hours. 


Some folks get a motorized finishing stand to do this.

Determine what size fly rod you should build.
Order a rod kit and review the components.
Build the spine.
Attach the reel seat.
Adhere the handle to the rod blank.
Attach the end cap.
Attach the tip top.
Prepare the guides.
Mark the positions for the guides.
Attach the guides with tape.
Start wrapping the guides by applying ¾ of winding thread onto each foot of the guide.
Finish wrapping the tip top, ferrules, and rod base.
Prepare to apply finish to the wraps.
Mix up your guide finish as in the kit directions.
Turn the rod every 15 minutes.
Mark the rod with the length, weight and any other important information.
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