(F1, f1.4, f2, f2.8, f4, f5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22)
Film (chip) sensitivity, aka ISO setting (50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200);
,


Each time you double or half the light, it's called 'one stop' down or up.
Note that the ISO and speed numbers correspondingly change by a factor of 2.
 That's probably the only difficult part to remember.


Try to remember the basic setting, which, incidentally, on antique cameras, are usually the only ones that are marked: 32, 22, 16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4, 2.8, 2, 1.4 (...1, 0.7, 0.5...). A step to the right in the list means double the light (one stop down).
 on the bus)
Brightly lit indoors, no windows (or nighttime) - f 1




You can guess all other conditions by filling in between. For example,

, Say you want to shoot on a sunny day with some clouds. When a cloud hits the sun, bring down one 'stop' - from f16 to f11. Or you want to photograph a back-lit face on a a bright day, you treat it like it's light shadow - we said thick shadow is f4, bring it one stop up - to f 5.6. Dimly lit indoors at night? Two stops down from f1 to f 0.5.
 One more thing - from the above rules, you can conjure other combinations of speed and aperture that will give the same amount of light.


For example, ISO 400, shutter 400, f 16 (sunny 16) = ISO 400, shutter 800, f 11.
Also equal to ISO 400, shutter 200, f 22. What you're doing is bring shutter one stop up (halve the speed, i.e. double the exposure duration from one 400th to one 200th of a second) and the aperture one stop down (halve the area of the opening)
Most lenses do not have f 0.5. And only expensive lenses even have 1.4 and f 2. In a way, those values can be considered hypothetical.
So, for example you have film with ISO 400, and you are shooting a not very brightly lit room. According to the above, f=0.5. say your widest aperture (lowest stop) is f4. there are 6 stops from f4 to f 0.5 (2.8, 2, 1.4, 1, 0.7, 0.5). Therefore, you need to reduce the speed 6 stops from 400 to 6 : 200, 100, 50, 25, 12.5, 6. You probably need a tripod, because this is 1/6th of a second and the picture will be blurry due to handshake.
 It takes a while to get used to these calculations but remember that film is very forgiving - you can mess it up by 3 stops and chances are it'll still be a usable photo, especially with black and white film. And over time you will develop an intuitive feel for the required settings, just like you know to put a sweater on a fall day.
Remember that the amount of light that hits the film (or digital chip) depends on 3 variables:


Shutter speed (5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 250, 500, 1000 meaning one fifth, one tenth...one thousandth of a second)
Aperture.
Know that those listed numbers roughly correspond to doubling or halving the amount of light.
Understand that the aperture stops change by a factor of square root of 2 (1.4) because they indicate the diameter of the lens opening, and increasing the diameter by 1.4 actually doubles the opening area, thus doubling the amount of light that goes in.
Now to figure out the lighting conditions:


Set the shutter speed roughly equal to the ISO

for example, if your film is ISO 400, set the shutter to ~400 (300-500 is fine)


The aperture can then be set based on the following rule:

Bright sunny day - f 16
Heavy overcast - f 8
Sunset/thick shade - f 4
Brightly lit indoors with some window light - f 2 (e.g.
Photograph.
Extrapolate.
Study and remember.
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