Making a Moleskine style notebook requires some special supplies. You should be able to find everything you need online or at your local craft store. You'll need the following to make your notebook:


24 sheets of 8 1/2" x 11" computer paper
1 sheet of 8 1/2" x 11" vellum, or marbled paper
1 piece of 9" x 5 5/8" Naugahyde
1 sheet of 1 1/2" x 5" cheesecloth
Upholstery thread
Small sheet of wax paper
Bookbinder's or other large needle
Beeswax
Bookbinder's awl
PVA glue
Craft knife
Ruler
T-square and triangle
Pencil
Bone folder
Binder clips

, Each sheet of 8 1/2" x 11" paper will give you two sheets of 7" x 5 1/2" paper for your notebook. Use your T-square and triangle to make cut lines on one sheet of paper. This sheet will serve as a guide so you can cut multiple sheets at a time.


Stack anywhere between 6 and 12 sheets together and make sure the edges are flush. Place your guide sheet on top of the stack. Use your T-square as a straight edge, and use your craft knife to cut through the stack.
Cutting multiple sheets of paper may be difficult, so start with fewer until you feel comfortable cutting more.
Repeat this process until you have cut all 24 sheets of paper, and your vellum, down to the correct size.
 Use your bone folder to fold each piece of paper, or folio, in half. If you need to, make a mark at the 3 1/2" line along the long edge of each sheet.


Try to make your folds as strong as possible so that you can lay each sheet flat.
Fold your vellum in the same way, and set it aside for later.
 Take six of your folded pieces of paper and collate them by stacking one piece on top of the other. Once you've stacked six pieces, fold them and lay them flat. They should look like small booklets. Try to keep the sheets aligned on the bottom and the spine.


Repeat this process with the remaining sheets, working six at a time. When you finish a set, stack it on top of the previous booklet. As you work, keep all the edges lined up, even those of the finished booklets.
Keep each booklet, or signature, in the same direction.
 Take your stack of signatures and make sure the spines and bottom edges are all in line. Bind them all together using binder clips. Place one at the top, and one at the bottom.


Don't worry if the top edge is a little jagged. This is the edge where you made your cuts, and it's normal for it to be a little off. Just make sure your spines and bottom edges are in line.
Measure 1/2" from the bottom edge of one of the spines and make a mark with your pencil. On the same spine, make three more marks, one at 2", one at 3 1/2", and one at 5". Mark the remaining spines according to these marks.
 Take the binder clips off your stack of signatures. Take one of your signatures and open it. Place the crease on the edge of a desk, or something you don't mind poking holes into. Use your awl or a large needle to punch a hole in each of the marks you made on the spine.


Take care to make sure each hole is on the edge of the spine, and not in the sheet itself. This may take some practice. You may have better luck if you lay the signature flat on a piece of cardboard and punch all the way through. If you try this method, make sure your pages don't slip out of alignment.
Repeat this process with the remaining signatures.
 It's better to have more thread than not enough, so make it a little longer if you want to be safe.


You want the thread to be equal to the number of signatures multiplied by the height of the spine. The spine in this notebook is 5 1/2" and there are a total of 8 signatures. If you choose to make a smaller notebook, or one with fewer pages, follow this formula to determine how much thread you need.
Thread the needle and pull around 6" through. Use the beeswax to wax the thread. The beeswax is optional, but it should make sewing a lot easier.
 Open one of your signatures to the center and push your needle through the bottom set of holes from the outside. Pull all but 2" through the hole.


Move to the next hole, and push your needle from the inside to the outside. Pull all the slack outside. Push your needle through the third hole, moving from the outside to the inside, and then from the inside out on the fourth hole.
When you finish on the fourth hole, pull all the slack out of the signature. Hold the short piece of thread at the bottom and pull the rest of the thread in line with the spine. If you pull at a ninety degree angle, you run the risk of tearing the holes.
 Grab another signature and place it next to the one you just finished sewing. Push your needle into the top hole of the second signature and pull the thread taught. Keep the spines of the signatures close together.


Push the needle through the second hole from the inside of the second signature. Then, push the needle through the corresponding hole of the first signature. Keep the thread somewhat taught throughout the binding process.
Next, push the needle out of the third hole on the first signature. You should be threading in the opposite direction as you were when you made your first pass through the first signature. Push your needle through the corresponding hole in the second signature, working from the outside in.
You should be on the final hole of the second signature now. Push your needle from the inside out on the fourth hole of the second signature.
 You should see two pieces of thread hanging from the bottom of each signature. Tie the two signatures together using a square knot.


Take the two pieces of thread and cross them. Run the right hand knot under the left hand knot, and then back over. Pull this bottom knot somewhat taught.Then, cross the two pieces of thread at the top, again keeping the right hand piece on top of the left hand piece. Wrap the right hand piece around the left hand piece and pull the knot tight.You can triple tie the knot if you want extra security, but it is not necessary. Don't cut any of the excess thread off yet.
 Place the third signature next to the first two. Sew through the third signature using the same method as you did with the first two. Make sure to run your needle through the third and second signatures to sew them together.


The last hole you exit on the third signature should be the top hole. To secure the third signature to the first and second, use a kettle stitch. Take your needle and run it under the thread that binds the first and second signature together on the top hole. Pull the thread tight through the loop.
Use a kettle stitch each time you exit the last hole of a signature. The holes you end on will alternate from top to bottom with each new signature.
Repeat this process until you have sewn all your signatures together. When you have sewn all the signatures together, tie the ends of the thread together and cut any excess thread off.
 Place your sewn signatures between a set of heavy books or weights. Leave a small amount of the spine sticking out.


Apply a layer of glue along the spine. Take care not to let any glue bleed between the pages. Push the ends of the thread down and apply a layer of glue over them as well.
Cut your cheesecloth so that it is a little shorter than the spine and 3-4 times as wide. Make sure the cheesecloth is centered on the spine and glue it down. You can add a layer of glue on top of the cheesecloth to ensure you have a good bond. Let the glue dry overnight before adding the cover.
 Place a piece of wax paper under the first page of your book. Make sure the wax paper is larger than the page. The wax paper will prevent you from getting any glue on the rest of your book.


Spread a layer of glue on the first page and place a piece of the cut vellum on top of it. Make sure all the edges are in line and press the vellum down firmly.
Add another layer of glue to the top of the vellum. Wrap some of the cheesecloth that is hanging off the spine over the top of the vellum. You may need to add a little more glue on top of the cheesecloth to make a firm bond.
Take your Naugahyde and line it up over the vellum. Drape the other end of the Naugahyde over the spine, or fold it around to the back of your book. Press the Naugahyde into the glue firmly.
When the cover dries to one side of your notebook, repeat this process on the other side.
When you are ready to glue the other side, make sure to pull the cover tight around the notebook. Place the notebook between heavy books or weights when you finish gluing the cover, and let it dry overnight.
 When your notebook is dry, you may need to trim some excess material from the cover. Make the cover a little larger than the rest of the notebook to protect your pages.
Gather your supplies.
Cut your paper down to size.
Fold your paper.
Collate your paper.
Mark the spine.
Punch holes in each spine.
Measure a length of upholstery thread that is roughly 44" long.
Start sewing.
Sew your signatures together.
Use a square knot to fasten the two signatures together.
Sew the remaining signatures together.
Glue the signatures together.
Add the cover to your notebook.
Trim the cover.
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