Ashish has always used sparkle to make an authentic political statement, embroidering his bedazzled pieces with pithy phrases and progressive ideas (remember his rainbow "Love Sees No Colour" shirts and "Fall In Love And Be More Tender" tees?). This time around, though, does such exuberance feel out of place? We all know how wasteful the fashion industry is, with the proportion of synthetic fibres doubling since 2000 , and the global emissions from textile productions reaching 1.2 billion tonnes of C02 . Now more than ever, consumers are looking for brands to be responsible with their output – and surely responsibility is the polar opposite of hedonism? "It’s important not to confuse hedonistic consumerism with creative optimism," Francesca Muston, vice president of fashion at WGSN explains. "The need for glamour does not give us permission to ignore our current constraints. Consumers are looking for products which are an expression of their beliefs and feelings, and they are applying greater scrutiny to ensure purchases measure up to this on all accounts."