The irony — and greater implications — of being knocked off by a fast-fashion corporation aren't lost on James. "Our price point is based on the way that we do things," she said. "I understand the people that want to buy into trends — and Zara knocks trends off for that reason — but as consumers, we have to understand that there are some things we just can’t have." If you're buying a sandal for $59.90, then, you don't know exactly who made it (and under what conditions), or what it's made of.

James doesn't think this is the first time fast fashion has ripped off her designs; and, unfortunately, she doesn't know if her small business could take Inditex, Zara's parent company, to court. "For me to go after a multibillion dollar corporation like Zara, which has a huge legal team ready and waiting for this, is not going to happen. I can’t afford it, and that’s how they get away with it." She's not against pursuing legal action in the future — but doing so would have very real effects on her company's day-to-day operations. "You have to weigh your time as a small-business owner," she said. "I can try to do this, but I’m going to end up taking 20% of my week away from my business, away from the goals we’re trying to accomplish, and send it toward that when, essentially, the damage is already done."

This situation is making James rethink other business decisions, like hosting a presentation during New York Fashion Week, where editors and showgoers snap her latest designs months before they're produced (much less on the selling floor). "A lot of designers don’t want to do [the traditional fashion schedule] anymore because your stuff is getting out there in advance of you putting it on the shelf," she said. "It makes me think twice about putting my spring ’17 designs on the internet, because they’re going to be able to knock it off before I’m able to train people in Africa to make them."

Despite everything, James isn't completely disillusioned. She actually thinks the pervasiveness of knock-offs in fashion "isn't a' forever' problem, [but] an interim problem that we all collectively have to figure out." If anything, she feels more committed to the core beliefs she's fought for at her company. "It’s one of those moments that tests you, and makes you think about why you got into this and what your motivations are," she noted. "What’s amazing about the fashion industry, too, is that everyone is really supportive...but this is a conversation that we need to figure it out as a community."

We've reached out to Zara for comment, and will update our story when we hear back.