Enter Hedi Slimane , who, having taken the reins at Celine, reassured everyone that his "goal" was "not to go the opposite way of [former designer Phoebe Philo’s] work" — before doing exactly that. Slimane replaced Philo’s grown-up womenswear with the super-tight and extra-short look that has been his signature since he popularized the skinny jean in the early '00s. New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman spoke for many when she described the collection as "pouty" and "infantilizing." If Slimane’s collections for Saint Laurent (where he infamously dropped the 'Yves') in the early 2010s are anything to go by, his debut for Celine will likely sell very well indeed. But fashion is about more than just pushing product (though that is one vital aspect of it) and the critical reception of the "new" Celine demonstrates the immense cultural capital he has lost.