Most of these trends can be breadcrumbed back to the oracle, Raf Simons – specifically, his Spring '18 collection for Calvin Klein. Undoubtedly one of, if not the most authoritative voice in American fashion, Simons had just taken over the reins at the somewhat slumbering Y-front Yankee atelier, Calvin Klein. A house with a reputation for designing wardrobes best suited to hanging out in the long grass of The Hamptons or the backyards of Connecticut, when Simons’ first round of tasteful red and blue silk cowboy shirts emerged on the runway, there was a pause. Then came midwestern prairie skirts in sanguine-hued leathers, and a series of red, white and blue fringed dresses. The eye was slowly drawn to artist Mr. Ruby’s axes (inspired by The Shining) and steel buckets looming from the ceiling above A-listers' heads. Clearly, this was not a serenade for POTUS. More Stephen King than Kellyanne Conway, the show was a comment on the beguiling and frightening state of modern America and the institutions that shroud it.