"I have had to make a deal with most of my clients, because they can't stop using acids immediately," Radu says. That compromise is to only use acids two days a week (she recommends Monday and Thursday to keep it regimented) for one month. Then clients see how their skin reacts. "If it doesn't improve, they can go back on the acids, but if it does [look and feel better] they can make the decision to quit [fully or stick to two times per week]."

Her success levels? "All my clients see the light," Radu says. "It just takes a while to see, but they always come to understand because they can feel the wellness of their skin — it feels smooth, glowing, and hydrated."

Of course, you still need to exfoliate for a variety of reasons — declogging pores at the top of that list. Radu's suggested routine? As needed, a very gentle physical exfoliator like a gommage or scrub (be sure the granules are no bigger or sharper than a grain of sugar) used after cleansing and before a targeted, acid-free serum. Plus, a good moisturizer for night and strong SPF for day.

Fret Not: Recreational Users Are Permitted

Radu knows that this will not work for everyone or every situation. In fact, she has some tips to implement if you fall somewhere in the middle of the issue. The most useful being her tip for breakouts. Blemishes happen — and many OTC topical treatments are acid-based — so Radu suggests applying them only to the area to be treated and mixed 50/50 with a simple everyday lotion, which will aid in the exfoliation without over-drying your entire complexion.

When it comes to acid-based prescription products or those recommended by your derm — like those for brown sports, melasma, or acne — she instructs her clients be very precise by applying with a Q-tip. "It takes extra time, but it's the only way you won't affect the surrounding skin," she explains.