The Million-Dollar Concept

As intriguing as the Mexican President sounds, I was here for the “Kalaful Choice” — a technicolor dream of red, green, and blue cheese, with tomatoes, basil, and lavender accounting for the respective hues. The whole cheesy medley consisted of mozzarella, cheddar, Emmental, and gruyere. Over a phone call the night before my visit, Mr. Tam, the owner, assured me that nothing in the sandwich was artificially colored: Each tint of the rainbow came from a hard-to-find cheese product sourced from France.

The whole operation was a bit hush-hush, as most of the windows were obscured by printouts of the store’s press coverage. But, from what I managed to gather by craning my neck, the cheese strips are stacked together — according to color — on pieces of toast before being pressed on a grill. Nothing too wildly different from the way you'd make it in your apartment.

Tasting the Rainbow

After a 15-minute wait, I was finally able to rip into one of these beauties. One of the girls at the stall was generous enough to offer me this pro tip: For maximum visual impact, you should tear apart your grilled cheese while holding it flat. My fingers were practically dancing with excitement.