For some, this New York Fashion Week was AW17; for others, it was spring. But, on Wednesday, it was all Yeezy Season. West showed his fifth collection in partnership with Adidas Originals this afternoon, with cameos from models like Luka Sabbat and Amina Blue and a debut of the much-Instagrammed Calabasas line. First, let's talk about the lead-up, though, because it wouldn't be a Yeezy function were it not preceded by weeks of speculation: Will it, won't it — and if it will, when and where? West gave more of a heads up than in past years that Season 5 was, indeed, happening (a few weeks versus a few days), and it would take place at a well-known venue (Pier 59 Studios). Still, the CFDA wasn't pleased with his spontaneous announcement, so there were some scheduling changes . The official invites weren't sent out to editors until the night before — and some attendees were understandably confused by the unorthodox presentation: a T-shirt with the phrase "Lost Hills" printed on it, delivered in a vacuum-sealed plastic bag along with a Season 4 lookbook. ( A hint at an album drop and surprise guest appearance , perhaps?) Nevertheless, this package has become the closest thing to a golden ticket during New York Fashion Week — despite speculation that the industry was pretty much done with Kanye after the whole Roosevelt Island adventure last season. (The performer's brief alignment with Donald Trump didn't help in the eyes of the fashion flock, either.)