You know the drill: New York Fashion Week rolls around and kicks off a four-week relay on both sides of the Atlantic (with a pit stop in Los Angeles first this time around). This is routine for seasoned industry players — but the last few years have involved a number of shake-ups to the status quo. We've seen a handful of brands diverge from the tried-and-true, season-ahead runway show in favor of presentations or private viewings, with some test-driving the whole "see now, buy now" approach. In February 2016, we began speculating about what that buzzy, instant-gratification approach would mean for both the calendar and for editors covering new collections; by September , more brands had joined the consumer-facing wave. By now, we'd expect to have a clear picture about fall '17 versus spring '17 — except, of course we don't.