Even with these flourishes of aesthetic brilliance, the message was clear – in this case, commerce had triumphed over art. Brand interference in all elements of the fashion industry is becoming overwhelmingly obvious and, as a result, it’s now impossible to distinguish between sponsored looks and genuine endorsements. There are ways around this, as certain stars proved, but the problem was particularly evident in the context of a dress code dedicated to one of fashion’s most unconventional minds. Even Kawakubo isn’t perfect – as many have pointed out, the designer hasn’t cast a single black model in over a decade , a problem that cannot be ignored. Still, her contribution to the industry has laid the foundations for a host of graduate students and young innovators to push the boundaries of fashion. As Monday night inadvertently showed us, it remains largely impossible to recreate the spirit of her singular vision without actually diving into the archives themselves.