But...how? How still? For answers, I turned to prominent casting director James Scully, who’s worked in the industry for decades in the days when it was typical to see a whites-only lineup.“10 years ago, no one would have said anything, but it’s different now.” Scully has extremely vocal about fashion’s diversity problem. He recently found himself entangled in a back-and-forth in the comments section for Jason Campbell’s recent article on Business of Fashion, “ Whites-Only Policy at Vetements and Balenciaga .” Commenters defended Gvasalia’s vision, but Scully wasn’t moved: “‘They’re just doing their world,’ is the argument," he told me, "But if [Gvasalia] stood in the stores that sell Vetement and saw the people that buy his clothes, most of them are not white. I eat lunch three times a week at Dover Street Market and I like to watch all the kids who come in, are so excited, and freak out if they’ve missed a delivery. But half of those kids are Black, Hispanic, and Asian. Is their world not his world?" (And to address the excuse that creative directors don't have the time to cast models for their own shows, Scully confirms that they're intimately involved: “The stylist and casting director may have a lot of power, but at the end of the day, it’s the designer’s decision [of who to cast]. No one else is making that decision.”)