But despite the exotic set and warm Paris weather, this couture collection (Chiuri's second since joining the house last summer) was surprisingly muted, with a focus on tailoring and masculine fabrics and colours. Dior regular, Brit model Ruth Bell, with a crop of newly bleached blonde hair, opened the show, wearing a belted grey jacket and ankle-length skirt with thick-soled lace-up shoes. This was followed by a series of looks that you might not expect from couture week – and certainly worlds away from the frothy, feminine fairytale gowns of Dior's last couture show in January . Though there were some satin gowns and stunning corset dresses, the opening passage was mostly made up of wrap jackets and wide-leg trousers, structured tailoring and even a shearling-lined, Aviator-esque leather flight suit that Amelia Earhart would be proud of. This was the luxury wardrobe of the glamorous globetrotter, featuring patchwork coats, elegant capes and even jackets adorned with maps, representing Christian Dior's love of travel and a yearning for discovery; discovering the world and oneself, emotion and growth.