Mary Lincoln's Dress
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Dress"}, "metadata_usage": {"access": "CC0"}, "data_source": "National Museum of American History"}, "indexedStructured": {"exhibition": [{"exhibitionTitle": "First Ladies", "building": "NMAH"}], "object_type": ["Dresses (garments)"], "name": ["Keckley, Elizabeth", "Lincoln, Mary Todd"], "onPhysicalExhibit": ["Yes"], "topic": ["Government", "Social reformers", "Clothing and dress", "Dress accessories", "Politics", "Presidents' spouses", "First ladies", "Selections from the Abraham Lincoln Collection"], "online_media_type": ["Images"]}, "freetext": {"setName": [{"label": "See more items in", "content": "Political and Military History: Political History, First Ladies Collection"}, {"label": "See more items in", "content": "Government, Politics, and Reform"}, {"label": "See more items in", "content": "Clothing & Accessories"}, {"label": "See more items in", "content": "Selections from the Abraham Lincoln Collection"}, {"label": "Exhibition", "content": "First Ladies"}, {"label": "Exhibition Location", "content": "National Museum of American History"}], "identifier": [{"label": "ID Number", "content": "COLL.MTLDRS.005003"}, {"label": "accession number", "content": "70138"}], "notes": [{"label": "Description", "content": "Mary Lincoln\u00e2\u0080\u0099s purple velvet skirt with daytime bodice is believed to have been made by African American dressmaker Elizabeth Keckly. The first lady wore the gown during the Washington winter social season in 1861\u00e2\u0080\u009362. Both pieces are piped with white satin, and the bodice is trimmed with mother-of pearl buttons. An evening bodice was included with the ensemble. The lace collar is of the period, but not original to the dress."}, {"label": "Description", "content": "After Abraham Lincoln\u00e2\u0080\u0099s death, Mary went into mourning and remained in widow\u00e2\u0080\u0099s clothes until her own death in 1882. She gave some of her White House finery to family members. Her cousin, Elizabeth Todd Grimsley, received this purple velvet ensemble. In 1916 Grimsley\u00e2\u0080\u0099s son, John, sold the ensemble to Mrs. Julian James for the Smithsonian\u00e2\u0080\u0099s First Ladies Collection."}, {"label": "Description", "content": "John Grimsley attributed this dress to a \u00e2\u0080\u009cseamstress of exceptional ability\u00e2\u0080\u009d who \u00e2\u0080\u009cmade nearly all of Mrs. Lincoln\u00e2\u0080\u0099s gowns.\u00e2\u0080\u009d Although he mistook her name as \u00e2\u0080\u009cAnn,\u00e2\u0080\u009d he most likely was referring to Elizabeth Keckly."}, {"label": "Description", "content": "The Civil War made it particularly important that the ceremonial functions of the administration appear dignified and competent. This public image helped calm domestic critics and reassure foreign governments, especially England and France, which were being courted by the Confederacy. The Lincolns faced the challenge of maintaining proper decorum without appearing self-indulgent when so many were sacrificing so much. Their background made this task even more difficult, as they had to overcome eastern stereotypes of \u00e2\u0080\u009cuncultured\u00e2\u0080\u009d westerners."}, {"label": "Description", "content": "Mary Lincoln took her role as first lady very seriously. Some newspapers portrayed her as \u00e2\u0080\u009cthe republican queen,\u00e2\u0080\u009d elegant and admirable at public occasions. Others criticized her for conspicuous consumption in time of war and sacrifice. Although she came from a genteel Kentucky family, she was the wife of \u00e2\u0080\u009cthe rail splitter,\u00e2\u0080\u009d and many people expected her to embarrass the nation with uncouth western manners."}, {"label": "Description", "content": "Bequest of Mrs. Julian James, 1923"}], "creditLine": [{"label": "Credit Line", "content": "Bequest of Mrs. Julian James"}], "name": [{"label": "wearer", "content": "Lincoln, Mary Todd"}, {"label": "referenced", "content": "Keckley, Elizabeth"}], "publisher": [{"label": "Related Publication", "content": "Rubenstein, Harry R.. Abraham Lincoln: An Extraordinary Life"}], "topic": [{"label": "subject", "content": "First Ladies"}], "physicalDescription": [{"label": "Physical Description", "content": "satin (part material)"}, {"label": "Physical Description", "content": "lace (part material)"}, {"label": "Physical Description", "content": "velvet (overall material)"}, {"label": "Physical Description", "content": "purple (overall color)"}, {"label": "Measurements", "content": "overall on mount: 60 in x 48 in; 152.4 cm x 121.92 cm"}], "dataSource": [{"label": "Data Source", "content": "National Museum of American History"}], "objectType": [{"label": "Object Name", "content": "dress"}]}}, "url": "edanmdm:nmah_1359703", "hash": "2213787b7d2893f2949e3f992a9329472c66260d", "docSignature": "edc3fe24572df291ad2724c3b2fd3022", "timestamp": 1663783025, "lastTimeUpdated": 1655974194, "title": "Mary Lincoln's Dress"}