164 (#220) ############################################ CHAPTER V SETS OF WOOLLEN MACHINES—WOOLLEN YARN COSTING THE woollen and worsted industries have developed on quite distinct lines, with the result that while one industry has maintained itself as an interdependent industry the other has severely sectionalized itself. Thus in this country there are few woollen spinning firms whose final product is the yarn-almost all firms have linked up with their spinning plants weaving and usually finishing or partially finishing (scouring and milling) plants. On the Continent-possibly owing to the developed skill in fine wool yarn spinning (woollen and worsted)—woollen yarn spinning has long been an established industry. It will be obvious that sets of machinery will be designed and organized according to whether the yarns produced are to be placed directly on the market or handed forward to the weaving department to be con- verted into cloth. In the first case, standard styles of yarns will probably be produced “day in day out," while in the latter case the machinery must be more flexible and capable of producing all the varieties of yarns the cloth constructor may demand. Similarly with yarn costing. The worsted yarn spinning concern may organize its costing on a truly scientific basis and may work down to at least the im- portant details; whereas the yarn costing in a mill which further converts the yarn into cloth is a much 164