2 (#22) ############################################### WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING will be one of fibre arrangement. The woollen yarn is based upon the free and perfect mixing up of all the fibres composing the thread. The worsted yarn is based upon the parallelizing and constraining into a direction parallel with the length of the thread of all the fibres composing the thread. To produce a perfect worsted yarn it necessarily follows that all short fibres which would be out of control must be removed, and that the most perfect worsted yarn will be spun from a series of fibres of the same length—hence the neces- sity of the “combing,” which effects the two-fold object of “averaging up” the fibre lengths by the extrac- tion of the short fibres or “noil,” and of "straightening out" the longer fibres retained as “top.” The “ top ” only is drawn and spun into worsted yarn. A secondary differentiation between woollen and worsted is that of length. It is said that the woollen spinner can spin any fibre which has two ends. On the other hand, it used to be true that the worsted comber and spinner required fibres of at least three or four inches in length. To-day, however, largely due to the skilful development of machinery by the French, wool fibres down to one and a half or two inches may be spun into worsted yarns. As fibres two or three times this length are spun into woollen yarns by the Scottish spinners, it is obvious that length of fibre alone must not be made the basis of discrimination between woollen and worsted spinning ; but it is true, nevertheless, that, broadly speaking, the woollen spinner is usually dealing with short fibres and the worsted spinner relatively with long fibres. Thus Clothing Wools are the shorter wools which are more suitable for Woollen than for Worsted manufacturing. а. ឲ្យ 04 Noils. The truth of this last remark is apparent 2
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