temic insecticide that goes throughout the plant so that the chemical can get to where the insect is feeding. Doing this now will at least destroy the adults that are still feeding, but next year start earlier with control measures.
Begin by removing all of the old mulch and fallen leaves this fall - the insects overwinter in this material. Next apply a dormant oil spray in January or February to help suffocate any eggs that are dormant and then apply a systemic insecticide in April (a product with acephate or imidacloprid) so that you can control the lace bugs just as they start to feed, thus keeping them from creating the chlorotic condition.
I know this is a lot to digest, but if you can make sure the pH is in the correct range, apply some much-needed organic matter to improve the soil micro-organisms, add a good, slow-release organic fertilizer appropriate for azaleas, and keep the lace bugs from getting established, then those azaleas will come back in line and display a fabulous coat of dark-green leaves to highlight their spectacular flowers.
Things to do:
If summer annuals have grown leggy (impatiens are prone to this), cut them back halfway and fertilize with a liquid feed product.
Prune and fertilize hybrid tea roses to get them ready for a big fall bloom.
Watch out for magic lilies, surprise lilies and spider lilies as the flower spikes jump out of the ground; the lawnmower and string trimmer can be a drag on flowering performance.
Harvey Cotten is the chief horticulturist and vice president at the Huntsville Botanical Garden. Write to firstname.lastname@example.org or c/o The Huntsville Times, P.O. Box 1487, West Station, Huntsville 35807.
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