s typically acidic, agricultural lime is usually recommended to raise the pH. (It can safely be applied at the rate of 2-3 lbs. per 100 sq. ft., although a soil test really should be done.) Other soil amendments, such as superphosphate or bone meal may also be worked into the upper 6" to 8" of the soil, at the rate of 5 to 10 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. No additional fertilization is needed for newly planted bushes until after the first bloom cycle.
Individual planting holes 18" wide and no deeper than 12" may be dug if only a few roses are to be planted. If a number of roses are to be planted in a continuous area, prepare the whole bed by spading the soil to about 12", (amending as described above), then dig planting holes within the prepared bed. Bare-root roses should be planted according to the instructions that come with the plants immediately after you get them. When planting a bare-root rose, make a small cone of soil in the center of the hole and set the plant on the peak of the cone so the roots spread down its slopes. The bud union should be slightly above ground level. Fill the hole 3/4 full of soil, the soak with water. After the water has drained, finish filling the hole with soil. Container-grown plants may be planted from spring to fall--whenever they are available. Remove the plant from the container ad place it in the hole so that the soil level is even with level of the surrounding bed. Work soil around the plant as necessary so that no air pockets remain. Water well. Space hybrid teas 2-3 ft. apart; grandifloras 3-4 ft.; floribundas and polyanthas 2-2 1/2 ft; miniature 1 1/2-2 ft. apart. Climbers should be spaced 6-8 ft. apart.
Roses require plenty of water (at least one inch per week) to assure even, steady growth. Water at ground level to avoid wet foliage which encourages the spread of disease. Remember to water before spraying or fertilizing and especially during dry spells, even in the winter.
Pine straw, newsprint (not colors), shredded leaves, peanut hulls, aged compost, or almost any loose organic material can be used as mulch. It is used to hold moisture, control weed, protect the bush, and give a finished look to the bed. Spread 2" to 3" of mulching material evenly around and between the plants. As the mulch decays and becomes incorporated into the soil, add new material. In winter, blanket the bud union with a very loose covering of mulch to protect the plant from drying winter winds. Uncover the bud union when all danger of frost has past.
Fertilizing Established Plants
Properly sustained nutrition insures healthy, vigorous growth, and disease-resistant plants. Fertilizers are classified as organic or inorganic (chemical). Organic fertilizers, such as aged manure, compost, fish emulsion, bone meal, leaf mold, etc., add many nutrients not found in chemical fertilizers. Organic fertilizers can be applied on a regular basis at any time during the growing season as their nutrients are released slowly.
Inorganic fertilizers, such as 10-10-10 or 5-10-5 in granule form are applied by spreading around the base of the plant and working into the soil at the rate of 1/2 cup to 1 cup for each plant. Liquid fertilizers, or soluble powders mixed with water, can be applied directly into the ground as per label directions.
It is a good idea to alternate organic and inorganic. The plant does not necessarily know the difference, but the soil will appreciate the long-term benefits of the addition of organic materials. Unless you plan to exhibit, your roses need only a regular monthly feeding from March through October. Although they may continue to bloom into the winter, do not continue fertilizing.
Roses will give you lovely blooms all summer long, year after year, if they are healthy. When the plants are stressed they turn their energy toward survival rather than beauty. Buy healthy plants. Reject those with abnormal swelling or discoloration on the canes or roots. If your rose bushes are planted out in the lawn instead of a bed, mulch for weed control. Do not run lawnmowers and weed eaters up against the canes as