tected against temperatures drops. I vividly recall pruning roses one mild Jan. 30 and having them killed by arctic blasts during the first week in February. February can often produce some of the maritime Northwest's coldest winter weather. So hide those pruning shears!
If you have not done so yet, protect the bud union. This is the bulbous area just above the soil surface (or perhaps 1 or more inches above). Many hybrid roses are sold grafted on to an understock, and this swollen area is in the site of the graft. Covering this area with soil piled up over it and the bottom few inches of rose stem will help insulate the plant. You can also use sawdust, wood chips, bark chips, or even tree leaves (from trees without any disease problems.)
Tree roses need special protection. Some growers wrap the entire trunk with insulation, or surround the trunk with pre-molded gray pipe insulation. Tree roses have two grafted areas, one at the soil level and the other beneath the top branches. Be sure both are protected.
Container plants need special protection, whether they are holding roses or any other hardy plants. Move them into a covered shelter such as an unheated garage where the temperature stays above freezing. Or sink the pots in soil up to the rim, or pack them completely with insulating material such as leaves or sawdust.
If your garden is still unprotected from winter's blasts, do it now! Don't remove the protection until late February or early March.