 race alongside our ship, darting in and out of the water like aquatic bullet trains. In the friendly flicks of humpback tails, the slapstick routines of sea otters, and the precision-guided dive-bombing runs of eagles and sandhill cranes. And most powerfully, during our first close encounter with grizzlies in one of this coastline’s many waterfall-draped coves.
Engine cut, our zodiac silently glides toward shore, where we spot a 400 pound grizzly and her fluffy cub grazing on shoreline sedges and giant-leafed skunk cabbage. Everyone tenses with excitement, but not fear, because we’re in good hands. With a decade of experience as a BC park ranger, Smith knows grizzlies and what safety precautions to take in their presence.
We’ll get respectfully close, but immediately retreat at the first hint of disturbance. Both bears seem blissfully undisturbed by our presence, and let us drift closer. That’s for two reasons, explains skipper Smith.
“With us nearby she knows that the male grizzlies will keep their distance because they are especially uncomfortable around humans”, Smith says, pointing out that males may try to kill young cubs that are not their genetic offspring. “Mama bear is also relaxed because she knows that we’re not here to shoot her,” he adds.
Bear shootings have dropped significantly since 2005, when the team of conservationists and scientists at Raincoast Conservation Foundation purchased the commercial hunting licence for a vast area here three times the size of Yellowstone National Park in an attempt to block access to trophy hunters. Despite continued illegal hunting, this innovative approach has helped protect bears and other trophy hunting targets like coastal wolves – already threatened by loss of habitat and a declining salmon supply – from the crosshairs of high-powered rifles.
As our ursine neighbours munch their way toward the water’s edge, they take turns rearing up on hind legs to sniff for danger and locate each other in the tall sedge. Then, as suddenly as the deer and wolf had plunged into the water, so do the bears. Startled by something (a nearby male?), they paddle past us like furry torpedoes, noses just clearing the water. Seconds later, they clamber up onto the safety of the far shore. Then vanish into the deep, dark woods.
No lingering like the frustrated sea wolf for this pair. Although the cub can’t resist glancing back at these colourful and curious creatures that have respectfully and peacefully entered the lair of the great bears.
IF YOU GO
About Maple Leaf Adventures
Voted one of National Geographic Traveler’s Tours of a Lifetime, Maple Leaf Adventures offers several small group, multi-day sailing cruises into the Great Bear Rainforest between April and October, as well as tours to Haida Gwaii, the Gulf Islands, Vancouver Island and Alaska’s Inside Passage. For more information, visit mapleleafadventures.com or call 1-888-599-5323
The Great Bear Rainforest trips start in Bella Bella and end in Prince Rupert, both of which are accessible by regular, daily commercial flights. Maple Leaf offers complete travel planning assistance and arranges for taxi or shuttle services to and from airports.
Prince Rupert has a range of hotels and motels, including the Crest Hotel, which offers panoramic waterfront views. In Bella Bella, no accommodation is necessary because guests of Maple Leaf Adventures arrive and depart for the Great Bear Rainforest on the same day.
Things to do
In Prince Rupert, explore the historic Cow Bay area, which is lined with interesting cafés and shops. From there, it is a short walk to the Museum of Northern B.C., which features traditional northwest coast architecture and exhibits that explore the fascinating history of the area’s First Nations. Also worth a visit is the Firehall Museum, which displays a rebuilt 1925 R.E.O. Speedwagon fire engine. Prince Rupert is also a world famous sport fishing destination.
For more information about the Raincoast Conservation Foundation’s ongoing efforts to protect the lands, waters and wildlife of coastal British Columbia, visit ww