nches at their base. Heading back a shrub is cutting all of its branches to the same height in order to stimulate a new flush of growth at that point (See diagram below). Severe renewal pruning is cutting all of the branches back almost to the ground in order to cause dormant buds at the plant’s base to flush. Some shrubs such as juniper and boxwood will not recover from such drastic treatment; prune these by thinning or heading back.
The best time to prune evergreen shrubs such as boxwoods or hollies is late in the winter just before they begin to flush new spring growth. (It is fine to prune throughout the dormant season; late pruning just lessens the time that your plant has that stubby, “just cut” look.) If you are too busy to prune in February, you can prune these shrubs throughout the growing season until mid- August, but doing so may stunt the new growth.
Flowering shrubs require a little more attention to timing. Plants that bloom in the spring typically do so from buds that developed at the end of the previous summer or fall. In order to avoid removing buds, wait to prune these shrubs until just after they finish blooming. Summer-flowering shrubs should be pruned late in the winter, just before they begin to flush new spring growth. Because these shrubs usually bloom on new wood, pruning this early should not put your summer blooms at risk.
Avoid pruning late in the summer or fall; doing so may stimulate the shrub to produce tender, new growth that will be susceptible to frost damage.
Fertilize your large, deciduous or evergreen shade trees around the beginning of February with a granular fertilizer. The area of most active root growth is at the tree’s drip line (the area under the perimeter of the canopy of the tree). Distribute the fertilizer evenly through this area at a rate of 1 pound per inch of circumference of the trunk at a height of 3 feet. Your larger, established trees should require fertilization only once yearly. The fertilizer will move slowly through these trees’ developed root systems and bodies; by the time it reaches the branches, the new growth should be safe from damage due to frost.
A young or newly planted tree requires fertilization at a lower rate of one teaspoon of granular fertilizer per foot of height until it establishes itself in the landscape (approximately 3 years). Fertilize these smaller trees late in the winter, just before new spring growth begins to push out, or as needed throughout the growing season.
Do not fertilize in the late summer or fall. Fertilizer causes the tree to push out a flush of tender, new growth, which will be more susceptible to frost damage and die back.
For specific fertilizer recommendations, please contact your local county extension agent.
Fertilize evergreen shrubs like hollies and boxwoods in early spring, just as new growth begins to push out, or throughout the growing season as needed at a rate of one teaspoon per foot of height.
Fertilizer can interfere with the production of blooms in flowering shrubs. Spring-blooming shrubs should be fertilized at a rate of one teaspoon per three feet of height just at the end of their bloom cycle. Use this same rate for summer-blooming shrubs just as they begin to flush new growth early in the spring. Fertilize shrubs with shallower root systems at a rate of one half teaspoon of fertilizer per foot of height.
As with your trees, do not fertilize in the late summer or fall. Fertilizer causes the shrub to push out a flush of tender, new growth, which will be more susceptible to frost damage and die back.
Different shrubs vary in their ability to withstand fertilization; over- fertilizing can result in leaf burn. For specific recommendations, please contact your local county extension agent.
Uniformly apply a two- to four-inch layer of mulch, pine straw, or bark to the soil surface. This will aid in moisture retention, weed control, and temperature regulation (keeping the soil cool in summer and insulating the soil in winter). For more detailed information on mulching, click here.
Improper watering practices are 