nas which has some 1000 year
old Paquime-style adobe dwellings with characteristic T-shaped doorways and stucco floors.
Cueva de las Ventanas is larger than Cueva del Puente and they both require about an
hours hike one way along steep but well maintained paths.
||Cave Dwellings at Cuarenta Casas
Directly to the west of Madera are the Anasazi caves and Cueva Grande.
Although they are fairly close on a map, poor roads and unkept trails make it difficult to
visit both sites on a one day trip. There are supposed to be guides available but this is
not always the case so it is best for visitors to be accompanied by someone who knows the
way. The Anasazi caves consist of the Cueva de la Serpiente and Nido del Aguila. Cueva de
la Serpiente is the larger of the two with 14 adobe dwellings that are over a thousand
years old. Nido del Aguila has only one dwelling that clings precariously to the edge of a
sheer cliff under a rocky overhang that gives meaning to its name, the Eagles Nest.
The Anasazi caves are considered by some to be the most impressive of the cliff dwellings.
This is due to the well preserved structures, the integrity of the site itself which has
not been as vandalized as other sites and the magnificent views high above the broad
expanse of the Huapoca Canyon.
Across from the Anasazi caves, the descent from the sierra to the barranca is more
gradual. Cueva Grande lies hidden within the convoluted folds
of the land and is embraced by the branches of tall trees. The mouth of the cave is
further obscured by a waterfall that cascades off the top of the cave to a pool and stream
below. Even in drier months when the little waterfall is reduced to a trickle, the fine
mist of water captures the sunlight to paint a delicate, shimmery rainbow. Its beauty,
seclusion and constant water supply must have been idyllic to the people who lived in this
parched, rugged terrain. A path rises from the pool to the caves entrance just
behind the waterfall. There are two 800 year old, two-story dwellings that provide good
examples of the construction techniques of that time. There is also a round grain storage
area behind the structure closest to the mouth of the cave.
The road forks just before crossing the suspension bridge at the bottom of the Huapoca
Canyon on the way to Cueva Grande. The left fork descends to Agua Caliente de Huapoca, a
small thermal spring on the river bank. Its warm waters flow to a little soaking pool and
continues on to the river where there is a natural swimming hole. Agua Caliente de Huapoca
is reputed to cure a variety of ailments but it is perfect for sore feet after walking
along the uneven trail to Cueva Grande.
It is difficult to find a taxi driver to make the trip to La Rancheria where
there are some fine ruins that cover an extensive area at the base of the Sirupa Canyon.
Located 50 Km south of Madera (a two hour drive one way), there is a lengthy walk (another
two hours each way) along a rough trail. A daytrip to La Rancheria requires a minimum of 9
to 10 hours with relatively little time to explore. The Sirupa Canyon is better visited on
an overnight trip which also allows time to visit the site of the old San Andres de Sirupa
Mission. It was destroyed during the Tarahumara uprising of 1690 and all that remains is
the shell of a hacienda that was constructed there in 1830. However, the surrounding
landscape is particularly beautiful and makes the half hour trip from the village of
Sirupa worthwhile. Nearby, the thermal springs of Agua Caliente de Sirupa gush from the
Sirupa River bank that is a good spot for camping.
Best Times to Go:
Spring and fall have the best balance of cool sierras and warm
barrancas. The beginning of fall is especially beautiful when the poplars and alders of
Madera begin to change color.
Madera possesses a basic tourist infrastructure and is the closest
town to the archaeological sites. It is reached from the nearby cities of Nuevo Casas
Grandes, Cuauhtemoc and Chihuahua by local bus. See the Getting There section
of the Sierra Tarahumara for general information about travelin