d bodies; by the time it reaches the branches, the new growth should be safe from damage due to frost.
A young or newly planted tree requires fertilization at a lower rate of one teaspoon of granular fertilizer per foot of height until it establishes itself in the landscape (approximately 3 years). Fertilize these smaller trees late in the winter, just before new spring growth begins to push out, or as needed throughout the growing season.
Do not fertilize in the late summer or fall. Fertilizer causes the tree to push out a flush of tender, new growth, which will be more susceptible to frost damage and die back.
For specific fertilizer recommendations, please contact your local county extension agent.
Fertilize evergreen shrubs like hollies and boxwoods in early spring, just as new growth begins to push out, or throughout the growing season as needed at a rate of one teaspoon per foot of height.
Fertilizer can interfere with the production of blooms in flowering shrubs. Spring-blooming shrubs should be fertilized at a rate of one teaspoon per three feet of height just at the end of their bloom cycle. Use this same rate for summer-blooming shrubs just as they begin to flush new growth early in the spring. Fertilize shrubs with shallower root systems at a rate of one half teaspoon of fertilizer per foot of height.
As with your trees, do not fertilize in the late summer or fall. Fertilizer causes the shrub to push out a flush of tender, new growth, which will be more susceptible to frost damage and die back.
Different shrubs vary in their ability to withstand fertilization; over- fertilizing can result in leaf burn. For specific recommendations, please contact your local county extension agent.
Uniformly apply a two- to four-inch layer of mulch, pine straw, or bark to the soil surface. This will aid in moisture retention, weed control, and temperature regulation (keeping the soil cool in summer and insulating the soil in winter). For more detailed information on mulching, click here.
Improper watering practices are the leading cause of plant loss in the landscape. It’s important to know what each plant needs and the signs that it will give to let you know whether those needs are being met.
Here are some general guidelines for proper watering:
- Water your trees and shrubs thoroughly after planting.
- Continue to water plants regularly for the first two years that they are planted. Proper watering is especially crucial during this time as the plants are working to establish themselves in the landscape and to overcome any transplant shock.
- Deep, less frequent watering is better than frequent, shallow watering. This promotes deep root growth and can reduce water loss by evaporation.
- Sandy soils drain water much faster than clay soils. In an area with a heavy clay soil, the water percolates slowly into the ground, so water at a slower rate to help reduce run off.
- Know how much water each plant type needs to thrive.
- Water the rootball or the area directly below the plant rather than the leaves. The leaves can take in water, but the main uptake of water and nutrients is through the roots.
- The best time to water is during the morning hours. Afternoon watering tends to increase the chances of water loss through evaporation. Watering at night increases the likelihood of fungal infections.
- Mulch around your plantings. This helps to reduce evaporation and to suppress weeds.
- Control your weeds – they will be competing with your plants for the same water.