From Basic Rose Growing in Tidewater, Virginia by Master Gardeners Leslie Bowie, Gloucester; Lisa Broudy, Newport News; Jan Spencer, Hampton.
This information attempts to focus on growing roses in the Tidewater and surrounding areas and the problems most generally encountered in our unique environment. Just as the climate and conditions in Tidewater are different from the climate and conditions in other parts of Virginia, so are the conditions from backyard to backyard. One of the joys of gardening is learning to observe nature closely. As you become familiar with your roses, you will learn what works best in your garden. Plant your roses, care for your garden, but most of all enjoy!
Rose plants should be purchased from reputable sources. Generally, local nurseries and garden centers, and mail-order nurseries are good sources. You can purchase dormant, bare-root roses in the early spring and potted roses later in the season. Roses are usually sold in 3 grades: #1, #1 1/2, and #2. Number 1 grade is the largest and more vigorous with at least 3 canes.
Roses grow best in full sunshine, but will tolerate a minimum of 6 hours. Morning sun is preferable because it will help dry the dew on the leaves, thus discouraging the development of fungal diseases. Good air circulation also helps discourage diseases, so it is not usually advisable to plant too close to walls, buildings, hedges, nor near trees or large shrubs which may compete for moisture and soil nutrients. Good soil drainage is a must.
Roses can be grown successfully in a wide range of soil types. Soils that are too heavy or too light can both be improved by adding organic matter such as peat moss, leaf mold, compost or aged manure. The optimum pH range for roses is between 6.5 and 7.0, which is lightly acidic. If you have not tested your soil in the past 3 years, your Extension Office can provide you with soil sample boxes to send to the Soil Testing Lab at Virginia Tech. You will receive instructions on how to correct any deficiencies. Because Tidewater soil is typically acidic, agricultural lime is usually recommended to raise the pH. (It can safely be applied at the rate of 2-3 lbs. per 100 sq. ft., although a soil test really should be done.) Other soil amendments, such as superphosphate or bone meal may also be worked into the upper 6" to 8" of the soil, at the rate of 5 to 10 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. No additional fertilization is needed for newly planted bushes until after the first bloom cycle.
Individual planting holes 18" wide and no deeper than 12" may be dug if only a few roses are to be planted. If a number of roses are to be planted in a continuous area, prepare the whole bed by spading the soil to about 12", (amending as described above), then dig planting holes within the prepared bed. Bare-root roses should be planted according to the instructions that come with the plants immediately after you get them. When planting a bare-root rose, make a small cone of soil in the center of the hole and set the plant on the peak of the cone so the roots spread down its slopes. The bud union should be slightly above ground level. Fill the hole 3/4 full of soil, the soak with water. After the water has drained, finish filling the hole with soil. Container-grown plants may be planted from spring to fall--whenever they are available. Remove the plant from the container ad place it in the hole so that the soil level is even with level of the surrounding bed. Work soil around the plant as necessary so that no air pockets remain. Water well. Space hybrid teas 2-3 ft. apart; grandifloras 3-4 ft.; floribundas and polyanthas 2-2 1/2 ft; miniature 1 1/2-2 ft. apart. Climbers should be spaced 6-8 ft. apart.
Roses require plenty of water (at least one inch per week) to assure even, steady growth. Water at ground level to avoid wet foliage which encourages the spread of disease. Remember to water before spraying or fertilizing and especially during dry spells, even in the winter.
Pine straw, newsprint (not colors), shredded leaves, peanut hulls, aged compost, or almost any loose org