3911 St. Jacques St. W. (near Laporte Ave.)
Credit cards: Cash only
Wheelchair accessible: Yes, but tight
Vegetarian friendly: Yes
Open: Wed. 10:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; Thurs.–Sun. 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m., closed Mon. & Tues.
Price range: Snacks $2.25-$3.50, dishes $5.25–$7.80, desserts $3
MONTREAL - Maybe it was because it had been a few months since I’d last eaten one of the Satay Brothers pork belly steamed buns, but on a recent afternoon, the spongy white sandwich in my hand tasted even better than I remembered. The dough seemed extra fluffy, forming a pillowy castanet around solid chunks of concentrated, cooked down pork. The combo of slices of moist cucumber set off against dark, sweet-salty hoisin sauce and a wispy bit of cilantro came across as extra vibrant. I missed this place more than I realized, so it was a thrill to find that it is stepping it up even more in its new digs.
Until a couple of months ago, you could only get the Satay Brothers’ take on Singaporean street food from a seasonal stall under the tent at Atwater Market. The flavours certainly suit open-air eating in summer, and its closing sparks withdrawal in a percentage of the population. At this sit-down location, Mat and Alex Winnicki, and their mother, Kim, show that their specialties from the Malay peninsula are also just the thing to shrug off the last of the snow. The front half of their production kitchen is now a dining area of rooster red paint and brick, a couple of round tables for two, a mostly communal seating with mix-and-match chairs. It’s cute and cosy for winter, with some cool touches in the crimson lanterns, vintage movie poster and bird cage (empty, no worries), but the draw is the gleaming open kitchen where the brigade works fast and hard. Cheerfulness and a can-do attitude seems to run in the family, and it comes through in the food.
Green papaya salad was a big wow for our party. It started by delivering a huge blast of lime; rather than bracingly tangy, the sourness of the citrus was integrated into the ribbons of shaved fruit. With sharp chilies, fragrant Thai basil chiffonade, and a scattering of fresh crumbled peanuts, this was a winter kicker — especially with the addition of slices of grilled pork chop.
The namesake sticks of skewered chicken were a delight; the meat was tender, and tasted of the grilling process, with a lick of sweet. Served with chopped cuke, and thick, soft yet airy peanut sauce, these are satays that defy you to stop at one.
All the preparations were fresh and lively, with a noticeable balance in the bolder selections, too. There was a lot to get acquainted with in a bowl of laksa lemak, a hearty soup full of shrimp, chicken, sprouts and quail egg: the coconut milk left a gentle creamy coating on the tongue that dispersed to make way for the rich spicing and heat — more so after mixing a dollop of the sambal from a spoon on the side. I also liked the assertive spicing in the mee goreng, which tossed together cuttlefish, shrimp, egg, fresh tomato and potatoes on springy fried yellow egg noodles. In comparison, the flavouring of the gado gado, best known as Indonesia’s meal in a salad, was contained and comforting. The flavours aren’t wild — they play in a scale of mild, and so much relies on the freshness and texture of the ingredients: the creaminess of the egg, the fresh crunch of sprouts, the long beans and the cabbage, and a swath of nutty satay sauce.
We adults went a little overboard in ordering pretty much everything. The kids at the table (it was March break) did their share — including devouring a whole banh mi-style roasted pork neck sandwich with pickled veggies before I got to try a bite, and demanding more pork buns and satay. (As if in anticipation of the “just one more factor,” these items can be ordered individually or in twos, good as a starter, side or child satiation tool).
We chose two desserts made with pandan, a narrow, spiky leaf that looks like day lily foliage and imparts green colouring and delicate perfume. A two-toned square had a custard topping that the fork gilded through, and a sticky-chewy base of glutinous rice; there was coconut milk in there, too. The favourite was a pale green crepe folded loosely around a filling of palm-sugar sweetened moist coconut shreds, which surprised with its daintiness. (Apparently, mama Winnicki doesn’t make them very often, so we were happy to have noticed them in the little basket next to the cash.)
At the end of April, when the market stall starts up again, this location will be open for evening service only. The outdoor setting will always have its appeal, but eating right in the kitchen, there’s a noticeable immediacy to the food here. Inside or out, Satay Brothers is friendly and affordable and full of gentle flavours — one of those places that feels like a find for everybody involved.