Thursday, August 5, 2010
Driving through the neighborhood, I could tell we were entering a different world. Gone where the sky rises and cramp row-houses as the city melded into a lush oasis of jungle punctuated by large villas. Twisting beneath the overarching trees and high white walls marking off each yard we came to a stop at a guard house, and peering through the driveway gate I could only wonder how a public official in Malaysia could afford such a house. We were shown in through the first guard gate before being meet halfway up the driveway by a large man in a black suit. He had the distinct air of a secret service agent, as if straight out a movie. He introduced himself quickly, scouting us with his eyes before ushering us into the house.
We waited on the plush couches as I examined a lush tropical pool, longing for a swim in its crystal clear waters. After a few minutes Tun Musa entered, perhaps a bit rushed but cheerful and with surprising energy for someone who was already the second most powerful man in Malaysia before I was even born. After shaking each of our hands and introducing himself, he sat down and went around the room inquiring into the details of our lives. Having grown used to the often cold and hurried attitude of the many government workers who scurry about D.C. I sometimes feel that those who have received any dose of power have forgotten their humanity, but right away Tun Musa showed interest in us. When he could, he related our personal experiences and interests to his, informing us that like us he was interested in the world, and had studied International Relations. As many politicians current and former claim, Tun Musa said that he did set out to go into politics, instead the hands of fate eventually guided him there. During the 1960's Tun Musa had risen high the ranks of Malaysia's sole ruling party, UMNO, achieving the position of Secretary-General before being expelled for subordination. A few years later he would be readmitted into UMNO and would again rise quickly, becoming the deputy whip of the coalition headed by UMNO. He was quickly elected to UMNO leadership, joining the Supreme Council, and by 1978 he had become the UMNO Vice President. When Mahathir bin Mohamad become in 1981, Tun Musa was nominated by the UMNO party to be the Deputy Prime Minister. Over the next several years however, Tun Musa grew disenchanted with government corruption and Mahathir's refusal to listen to anyone but himself. In 1987 Tun Musa resigned from the Mahathir's government and after a brief inner-party battle, he resigned from government service. Over the next couple of decades he would work in the private sector, eventually working his way up to the post of Chairman of Sime Darby, one of the largest and most influential companies in South East Asia. Unlike many UMNO officials he earned his money on the books, not through back room dealings and bribes. Perhaps what I respect Tun Musa the most for is the fact that he is man of principle, having fought and clashed with two different Prime Ministers with little concern for what it might cost him politically, or worse.
Eventually the tea was ready and we would continue our discussion about Malayia's past present and future in a nearby sitting room, enjoying a spectacular view of Kuala Lumpur's skyline, lit up beneath darkening rain clouds. Sitting at the tea table room we talked while a small entourage of maids moved up, tidying up a few last things. They walked smoothly, with their shoulders raised and flashing the occasional smile. A small detail, but confidence often missing from the working class in Malaysia who often have suffer long hours and harsh treatment at the hands of their employers. Domestic workers suffer worse then probably any, save undocumented workers. Many of the rights and privileges granted to other workers are denied to domestic household workers. Long hours without overtime pay, confiscated passports, poor living standards, and few (if any) days off are the norm. Still, the maids in Tun Musa's house did not seem mistreated or repressed. At one point a maid more or less commanded a fellow student to try a dessert, and against his will but to his later delight he followed her command. Her confidence made me smile, I had yet to see a server be so blunt. All small details to be sure, but I couldn't help but believe Tun Musa treated his household help with a comparatively high level of respect.
Throughout the whole discussion Tun Musa presented a view that seemed far more objective then any of the other political party members, or even U.S. Embassy staff. He admitted that Malaysia was not perfect, that certain things could be better, but at the same time he was proud of what is country had done so far. While many countries suffer from the “resource curse,” Malaysia has been able to direct a considerable amount of its natural resources towards development, even with the accompanying corrupt party politics. It is easy for Westerners to overlook exactly how difficult it is for a country to develop. Having been granted a high developed status for decades, we often take what we have for granted. The United States, for example, paid a high price for development, including the blood, sweat, and tears of many repressed peoples, such as Native Americans, Africans, and Chinese railroad workers. Country developing now often pay high prices, and while no prize can justify slavery or genocide, we need to be more understanding of other nations' needs.
The night at Tun Musa's ended with a few of us students waiting for a car ride back into the side. A gentle rain landing on a roof overhead, accompanied by a spectacular hilltop view from hilltop peering out over one of the most beautiful mosques I have ever seen and the Petronas Towers brighting lit in the distance.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Thursday, July 8, 2010
I headed back to Chinatown to check out a massive and surprisingly quiet mosque in the center, masjid jamek.
I crossed the highway (always a lengthy ordeal) right underneath what I think is the skyline’s most interesting building. I have yet to determine what it actually houses.
After that, it was a short walk back to the national mosque, the visiting hours for which I had missed the previous day. However, this time I also arrived an hour and a half before it was open to non-Muslim tourists, so I walked two minutes up the road to the Islamic Arts Museum. Unfortunately they didn’t allow pictures, but I took some of the building, which is a beautiful example of Islamic architecture in itself.
Then I walked back to the national mosque for visiting hours.
As the sun began to go down, I made my way to Menara KL, the huge tower that dominates the skyline less than only the Petronas Towers. I took the pricey and touristy (but also obligatory) ride to the top for the best view of the city. Unfortunately, taking pictures of the Petronas Towers and the rest of the city all lit up at night proved to be an exercise in futility. However, I did manage to take some pictures from the base that didn’t turn out too blurry to make out.
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Taman Negara National Park marked a lot of firsts for me. It was my first time jungle trekking, my first time canopy-walking, and definitely my first time swimming in a mini-waterfall in the middle of the jungle. Meeting with the Orang Asli was another unforgettable first. The Orang Asli are the aboriginal people of Malaysia and have inabited this land for hundreds of years. They live semi-nomadic lifestyles based on subsistence slash-and-burn agriculture. They urrently face significant land pressures as well as pressures by the Malaysian government to Islamize and assimilate into the Malay population. Most of these groups prefer to hold on to their culture. Our group arrived in boats at the Batek settlement. About twelve families in total lived in the settlement. Their homes were simple, made out of dried leaves and canvas. By most people's standards, they live in poverty. They earn some money from tourists like us who come by, intrigued by their lifestyle. But in my opinion, they seem happy. First they demonstrated to us how they start fire using the friction from vine and wood. They then gave us a demonstration on how they made darts that they use to kill animals for food. They also let us take a shot at using the blow darts. I personally was most intrigued by the children that ran around the settlement. Some were dressed in old clothes, others were half-dressed, one was not at all dressed, running around unabashed, stark naked in front of all the tourists. It was almost like a scene from a national geographic magazine. I kept trying to take pictures of the children. One of them, who was playing with his friends, realized this and turn around and stuck his tongue out at me just as I was taking the picture. I could not stop laughing. We then began to play a game. Every time I tried to take a picture of the kids, they ran and hid behind a tree. This game went on for quite a while, and I was not getting bored of it. One of the boys wore bright blue pants and had a smile from ear to ear that would make anyone's heart melt. He pretended to be shy, but secretly, I think he liked getting his picture taken. I finally went up to the children and I showed them their pictures. I am not sure if they had ever seen a picture of themselves, but they giggled and agreed to have their picture taken with me. Finally, I snapped a great one of them. I will never forget this experience.