Cover – Hot Flashes News
By the Climbing Magazine Team
Hot Flashes reports the world’s most up-to-date climbing news.
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|Ondra Onsights 5.14c in Italy
4/11/12 – Adding to the impressive onsights by Matilda Söderlund lately, Adam Ondra has onsighted Bella Regis (5.14c) at Arco, Italy.
11-Year-Old Climbs 5.14 at the Red
4/11/12 – Young climber Cameron Hörst has had a very successful trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky.
Matilda Söderlund: Two 5.13d Onsights in a Day
4/10/12 – UPDATED: Mathilda Söderlund has upped her own ante: she onsighted two 5.13d’s yesterday with Zona 0 and Negoclee at Siurana, Spain.
Sánchez Establishes Another V15 in Spain
4/9/12 – Nacho Sánchez has established his second V15 with Insomnio at Cova de la Gota in Crevillente, Spain.
Katharina Posch Climbs First 5.14b in Spain
4/9/12 – Austrian climber Katharina Posch had climbed her first 5.14b with Digital System in Santa Linya near Lleida, Spain.
Barbara Raudner: Sixth 5.14b with Fish Eye
4/9/12 – Hot on the heels of Monique Forestier’s ascent, Barbara Raudner of Austria has climbed Fish Eye (5.14b) in Oliana, Spain.
DiGiulian, Vorotnikov Take 2012 SCS Nationals
4/9/12 – A packed house at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder saw the Sport Climbing Series Open National Championships on April 7, with Sasha DiGiulian and Vasya Vorotnikov taking home the gold in the lead competition.
Major New Route on Alaska’s Mt. Dickey
4/6/12 – At the beginning of April, John Frieh from Portland, Oregon, and Doug Shepherd from Los Alamos, New Mexico, completed a huge new ice line on the northeast face of Mt. Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range.
New V14s by Robinson, Graham
3/6/12 – The past week has seen a flurry of impressive bouldering ascents across the globe.
Graham: Three V13 FAs in a Week
4/4/12 – Dave Graham has been keeping busy in Colorado.
Sinks Canyon Gets Hardest Route with 5.14c
4/4/12 – Sinks Canyon in Lander, Wyoming, just got its hardest route to date by local B.J. Tilden: Double Down (5.14c).
10-Year-Olds Climb 5.14a in Kentucky, Italy
4/4/12 – Nowadays, 5.14a ascents don’t typically make the news—unless, of course, they’re made by 10-year-olds.
Monique Forestier Climbs Fish Eye (5.14b)
4/4/12 – After 20 days of work, Australian Monique Forestier has climbed Fish Eye (5.14b) in Oliana, Spain.
More 5.14 Ascents Go Down in U.S., Europe
4/4/12 – In addition to Adam Ondra’s new 5.14d, numerous other 5.14d ascents went down recently.
Ondra Bolts, Frees 5.14d in Czech Republic
4/4/12 – Adam Ondra made the first ascent of a route at Labák in his native Czech Republic that he thinks is 5.14d: To tu ještě nebylo, or "Never been here before."
Americans, Slovenians Win Piolets d’Or
3/27/12 – Two teams of climbers have won 2012 Piolets d’Or for ascents in the Karakoram of India and Pakistan last year.
Indian Creek’s Hardest, 5.14-, Gets Redpoint
3/23/12 – On March 21, Indian Creek, Utah, saw the first ascent of what’s likely its hardest route yet.
First Winter Ascent of 9-Peak Evolution Traverse
3/22/12 – Shay Har-Noy, Ben Horne, and Konstantin Stoletov, members of the informal California group PullHarder, made the first winter ascent of the Evolution Traverse (VI 5.9), an eight-mile-long route that links nine peaks in the Sierra.
Search Called Off for Team on Gasherbrum I
3/21/12 – The search for the missing team on Gasherbrum I has been called off.
10-Year-Old Repeats Crown of Aragorn (V13)
3/21/12 – Ashima Shiraishi has climbed her hardest boulder problem yet with Crown of Aragorn (V13), in Hueco Tanks, Texas.
Two ‘Anniversary’ Expeditions Headed to Everest
3/16/12 – In 1963, a large American expedition completed three firsts on Mt. Everest: Jim Whittaker’s first American ascent of the world’s highest mountain, via the southeast ridge, and the bold first ascent of the west ridge, by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, who then completed the first traverse of the peak, descending to the South Col route after surviving an open bivouac above 28,000 feet.
Pearson Makes 5.14d Ascent in Spain
3/16/12 – U.K. climber James Pearson has just completed his first 5.14d, Esclatamasters, in Oliana, Spain.
Norwegian Woman Finishes Fish Eye (5.14b)
3/14/12 – Norwegian climber Maria Davies Sandbu has climbed Fish Eye (5.14b) in the hot spot Oliana, Spain.
Pioneer, Legend Harvey T. Carter Dies
3/14/12 – Harvey Carter—climbing icon and legend—passed away Tuesday, March 13, at the age of 83.
DiGiulian Fires Mind Control (5.14c)
3/12/12 – Sasha DiGiulian has jumped on the send train with Mind Control (5.14c) in Oliana, Spain.
|Gasherbrum I Climbed in Winter
3/12/12 – UPDATE: The international team of alpinists—Austrian Gerfried Göschl, Pakistani Nisar Hussain, and Swiss Cedric Hahlen—attempting a new route on Hidden Peak’s south side has gone missing.
Big New Mixed Route in Norway
3/12/12 – Aaron Mulkey, Kevin Craig, and Stephen Berwanger have nailed the first ascent of Sons of Anarchy, a mixed route long coveted by local climbers in Hemsedal, Norway.
Women Crushing 5.14s in Spain
3/9/12 – It’s been a big week for the ladies climbing in Spain.
ABS 13 Youth Nationals Results Are In
3/8/12 – Last weekend saw the American Bouldering Series Youth National Championships in Colorado Springs, Colorado, a week after ABS Open Nationals.
Steep New Big Wall Route on Tepui
3/8/12 – An international team of climbers has opened a new big wall route on the fabled Amuri Tepui in Venezuela, one of the steepest big walls on the planet.
Woods Proposes V15 for New RMNP Problem
3/1/12 – Daniel Woods is proposing V15 for a boulder problem he completed yesterday in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Wild WI10 Ice Climb Continues to Top
2/28/12 – Earlier this month, Briton Tim Emmett and Slovenian Klemen Premrl made the first ascent to the top of Spray On at Helmcken Falls, Canada.
Woods, Puccio Take Gold at ABS Nationals
2/27/12 – All hail the king and queen of comp climbing: Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio took the throne at ABS 13 Nationals in Colorado Springs, Colorado, on February 25.
Siegrist’s Longest Battle Comes to Fruition
2/24/12 – Jonathan Siegrist has made the first ascent of what he calls the hardest route of his life with La Reve in Arrow Canyon, about 45 minutes out of Las Vegas, Nevada.
Nina Caprez Repeats Mind Control (5.14c)
2/22/12 – Nina Caprez has redpointed Mind Control (5.14c) in Oliana, Spain, a few days just after Daila Ojeda climbed the same line.
World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route?
2/22/12 – German climber Robert Jasper has made the first ascent of one of the hardest dry tooling routes in the world.
Daila Ojeda Redpoints Mind Control (5.14c)
2/17/12 – Spanish climber Daila Ojeda redpointed Mind Control (5.14c) in Oliana, Spain, yesterday.
Webb Finishes The Island (V14)
2/17/12 – Jimmy Webb has climbed his second Fontainebleau V14 with The Island.
2012 Piolet d’Or Nominations Announced
2/16/12 – Six climbs by 15 alpinists—six of them American—have been nominated for the 20th edition of the Piolets d’Or, the annual prize for innovative mountaineering ascents across the world.
Prominent Norwegian Alpinists Die in Accident
2/14/12 – Prominent Norwegian climbers Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, 45, and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, 37, died while attempting a new ice route on the big wall of Kjerag, Lyesbotn, in southwest Norway.
Cool Climbs on Cannon Cliff
2/10/12 – New England’s biggest crag, Cannon Cliff, has seen some cool winter action in recent weeks, with a couple of new variations to the classic Icarus in the middle of the cliff as well as the second winter “ascent” of the mile-long girdle traverse of the crag.
2011 Guy Lacelle Pure Spirit Award Announced
2/9/12 – The 2011 Guy Lacelle Pure Spirit Award is being presented to crack climber extraordinaire Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet of Québec.
Herb Conn Dies at 91
2/9/12 – Climbing pioneer Herb Conn passed away in his home near Custer, South Dakota, on February 1, at the age of 91.
RRG’s Muir Valley: Help Keep it Open
2/9/12 – The Muir Valley Nature Preserve (MVNP), a major climbing area in the Red River Gorge in Kentucky, is in danger of closing.
Interview: Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
2/7/12 – During a trip to Red Rock, Nevada, Alex Johnson pulled off an ascent of Lethal Design (V12).
Traversi, Robinson Pull Off Memory is Parallax (V14)
2/6/12 – Carlo Traversi and Paul Robinson have made the fourth and fifth ascents of the new Colorado problem,Memory is Parallax (V14).
New Woods FA: Mirror Reality (V14)
1/6/12 – Shortly after Dave Graham opened a V14 near Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado, Daniel Woods followed up with his own V14 first ascent.
V14 FA, 5.14d Repeat in Europe
10/13/11 – The Nordic countries saw a difficult first ascent and repeat this week.
Austrians Rule American Roost: Lead World Cup
10/10/11 – A sold-out crowd of about 1,300 people packed into Movement Climbing + Fitness last night to see who would take the gold at the Lead World Cup in Boulder, Colorado, the first to be held on U.S. soil in more than 20 years.
Fifth Ascent of The Wheel of Life
10/7/11 – Another ascent of Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians, Australia, has flown under the radar for about a week.
|Mayan Gobat-Smith Frees Salathé Wall
10/7/11 – Last weekend, New Zealander Mayan Smith-Gobat made one of her dreams come true when she freed the Salathé Wall (VI 5.13b) on Yosemite’s El Capitan.
Ondra, Koyamada on a Roll in Switzerland
10/5/11 – Adam Ondra has had a successful trip to Switzerland despite not-so-perfect weather conditions.
Americans Complete Meru Shark’s Fin
10/5/11 – Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk have completed the direct line up Meru Shark’s Fin, a stunning granite buttress on the northeast side of 6,310-meter Meru Central in the Gangotri mountains of India.
Siegrist Adds 5.14d to Rifle
10/4/11 – Right after climbing what he thought was a new 5.14d in Rifle, Colorado, Jonathan Siegrist found a new method involving a kneebar that he believes downgrades Shadowboxing to 5.14c.
Two Big New Routes in Pakistan
10/4/11 – A Slovenian team climbed a major new route on K7 West in Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley this summer, while an American duo made the first ascent of a 6,540-meter (21,457′) peak in the valley.
Schubert, Kim First at Puurs World Cup
10/3/11 – Jakob Schubert (Austria) and Jain Kim (Korea) took top honors at last weekend’s Lead World Cup in Puurs, Belgium.
New Woods V15 in Magic Wood?
10/3/11 – Daniel Woods has made the first ascent of Mystic Styles in Magic Wood, Switzerland, for which he’s proposing V15.
New Route on Alaska’s Burkett Needle
10/3/11 – In a quick trip from Seattle, Dave Burdick, John Frieh, and Zac West did the first ascent of the east arête of Burkett Needle in southeast Alaska.
New 5.14a Trad Route in Adirondacks
9/30/11 – New England native Peter Kamitses has established one of the country’s hardest traditional climbs: Oppositional Defiance Disorder (5.14a) in the Adirondacks, New York.
New Route in Fisher Towers
9/29/11 – Jeremy Aslaksen and Paul Gagner have climbed a new route on the west side of Cottontail—their fourth new route in the Fisher Towers of Utah in the last three years.
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Sees Quick Repeat
9/27/11 – Joe Kinder has repeated Bad Girls Club (5.14d) in Rifle, a route he bolted in Rifle, Colorado.
Spannuth Sends Era Bella (5.14d)
9/27/11 – Ben Spannuth has finished Chris Sharma’s Era Bella (5.14d) in Margalef, Spain.
Americans Bag Much-Tried Hispar Sar
9/27/11 – American climbers Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, and Steve Su completed the first ascent of Hispar Sar (6,400m/20,997′) in the Karakoram of Pakistan in early August.
Honnold Solos 5.13b Yosemite Crack
9/26/11 – Alex Honnold geared up for the weekend by soloing Cosmic Debris (5.13b) last week in Yosemite.
Payne, Dory Take Gold in UBC Comp
9/26/11 – Angie Payne and Ian Dory nabbed first place at 2011′s final Unified Bouldering Championships competition—The North Face Open in Burlington, Vermont—this weekend.
New Female Nose Speed Record
9/20/11 – Last week, a new speed record was set on the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite.
New Route on Trango Tower
9/21/11 – A Russian expedition has climbed the first mostly independent new route on Trango Tower (aka Nameless Tower) in many years.
Vennon Bags Rifle 5.14b
9/20/11 – Rifle, Colorado, saw its first female 5.14b ascent last Saturday by local Jen Vennon, when she climbed Stockboy’s Revenge at the Bauhaus.
DiGiulian Redpoints Third 5.14c
9/20/11 – After being in Spain for about three weeks, Sasha DiGiulian has accumulated quite the ticklist (perhaps record breaking?).
Rocklands Wrap-up by Adam Ondra
9/12/11 – Adam Ondra has had a successful trip to Rocklands, South Africa, this year.
New 5.14d in Norway
9/9/11 – Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has spent some time recently developing a cave in the Flatanger region of Norway, where he has climbed a 5.14d link-up.
Austria, Korea Represent China Lead World Cup
9/8/11 – Austrian Jakob Schubert and Korean Jain Kim won the Lead World Cup in Changzhi, China, this week.
Wheel of Life (V16/5.14d) Repeated by Kassay
9/8/11 – James Kassay has updated his blog with thoughts on his ascent of the Wheel of Life.
Ondra, Woods: 5.15 FA, V15 Repeat
9/8/11 – Two days ago, Daniel Woods repeated what’s considered one of the hardest problems in the world: Anam Cara in the Silvretta Mountains, Austria.
New 5.14d/5.15a in France
8/31/11 – French climber Sébastien Bouin has climbed what he thinks is his hardest route—and first ascent—thus far: a yet-unnamed 5.14d/5.15a in the La Ramirole Cave in the Verdon Gorge, France.
|American Women Bag Three Peaks in India
8/31/11 – In early August, Janet Bergman, Emilie Drinkwater, and Kristin Kremer completed three first ascents of peaks in the Eastern Karakoram in India.
Koyamada Gets Second Ascent of Woods V15
8/30/11 – Yesterday, Japanese climber Dai Koyamada made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ In Search of Time Lost (V15) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
Beautiful New Big Wall Free Route in Norway
8/30/11 – Dave MacLeod has made the first free ascent of an eight-pitch, 400-meter granite route called Bongo Bar on the north face of Blamman, Norway.
Hukkataival and Graham Busy FA’ing in Grampians
8/29/11 – Nalle Hukkataival has been occupied with putting up boulder first ascents in the Grampians, Australia, recently.
Americans Bag World’s 2nd-Highest Unclimbed Peak
8/29/11 – Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson have climbed the east peak of Saser Kangri II in the Eastern Karakoram mountains of India’s Kashmir region.
DiGiulian Third in Youth World Championships
8/28/11 – Almost 700 young climbers came together to compete in the Youth World Championships in Imst, Austria, this past weekend.
Ondra Gets Third Ascent of Monkey Wedding (V15)
8/29/11 – Adam Ondra hasn’t slowed down since his repeat ascent of Monkey Wedding (V15) two weeks ago.
Melissa Le Neve Climbs V12, Multiple V11s in Rocklands
8/26/11 – Melissa Le Neve is ripping through boulders in Rocklands, South Africa, this season.
Gerlinde Climbs K2 to Complete 8,000ers Without O2
8/23/11 – Austrian mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has summited K2 today by the rarely climbed north ridge, a classy finish to her quest to be the first woman to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen.
Rifle’s Hardest Route Goes Up
8/25/11 – Joe Kinder responded to Matty Hong’s send of Bad Girls Club in Rifle on his blog.
Puccio Wins Bronze in 2011 Boulder World Cup
8/22/11 – The 2011 Boulder World Cup season drew to a close in Munich, Germany, this past weekend, with Russia’s Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Slovenian Mina Markovic taking the gold.
Major New Route on Pobeda Peak
8/22/11 – Kazakh climbers Gennady Durov and Denis Urubko have climbed a difficult new route on the huge north face of 7,439-meter Pobeda Peak in Kyrgyzstan.
Charlotte Durif Redpoints 5.14d in France
8/19/11 – French climber Charlotte Durif has redpointed her first 5.14d, Les 3P, at Grotte de Galetas in the Verdon Gorge, France.
Initial Red Rock Development Approved
8/18/11 – Yesterday, the Clark County Commission voted 5-2 to approve a plan for a major development overlooking Red Rock National Conservation Area despite a strong, opposing presence from the local community.
Caldwell, Trotter Finish The Shining (5.13+)
8/17/11 – Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have established a 15-pitch mixed route, The Shining (5.13+), on the Diamond Face on Mt. Louis in the Canadian Rockies.
5.14 Big-Wall Free Climb Sees Second Ascent
8/16/11 – Nico Favresse and Adam Pustelnik have repeated the big-wall route Orbayu on the Naranjo de Bulnes formation in Picos de Europa, Spain.
13-Year-Old Raboutou Climbs 5.14b
8/15/11 – Shawn Raboutou has climbed Welcome to Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain, marking the 13-year-old’s first climb of the grade.
DiGiulian First in European Youth Cup
8/15/11 – Sasha DiGiulian took first place in the European Youth Lead Cup in Imst, Austria, this past weekend.
World Cup Champ Does Two 5.14d’s
8/10/11 – Ramón Julian Puigblanque has repeatedly shown his prowess as a reigning competition champion—he won the men’s lead division at the World Championships in Arco this year and recently placed third at the Lead World Cup in Briancon, France.
Ondra Repeats Sharma 5.14d
8/8/11 – Adam Ondra got busy with the rock in Margalef, Spain, last week.
5.13c Onsight, 5.14a Redpoint for DiGiulian
8/8/11 – Fresh off the Arco World Championships in Italy, Sasha DiGiulian flew to Salt Lake City, Utah, for the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market.
5.13 on the Diamond of Longs Peak
7/29/11 – Josh Wharton has free-climbed the second 5.13 route on the Diamond, a 900-foot vertical and overhanging wall that rises entirely above 13,000 feet on Longs Peak, the northernmost 14′er in the Rocky Mountains.
New South Africa V15 by Robinson
7/28/11 – Paul Robinson has climbed a proposed V15 near Cape Town, South Africa, that he’s yet to name.
Foley Redpoints Jaws II (5.15a)
7/27/11 – Mike Foley redpointed Jaws II (5.15a) at Rumney, New Hampshire on July 24, making the route’s third ascent.
PeeWee Repeats Desperate 5.14 Vedauwoo Crack
7/27/11 – J.P. Ouellet (aka PeeWee) has made the second ascent of a desperate 5.14 crack in Vedauwoo, Wyoming: Home on the Range.
|DiGiulian Wins Overall Gold at Arco
7/24/11 – Austria was well-represented at this year’s Arco World Championships Lead Competition, with three athletes on both podiums.
2011 Arco Rock Legends Winners Announced
7/22/11 – Czech climber Adam Ondra and Spain’s Ramón Julian Puigblanque walked away last night with the annual Arco Rock Legends awards.
Paraclimbing Introduced at Arco World Championships
7/20/11 – This year, the World Championships in Arco, Italy, introduced the Paraclimbing Lead and Speed events.
DiGiulian Takes Bouldering Silver at Arco World Championships
7/18/11 – The first round of the Arco World Championships commenced this weekend, with Russia’s Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Austria’s Anna Stöhr as the 2011 bouldering world champs.
Another 5.14c Onsight for Ondra
7/14/11 – While it may not be personally noteworthy for Adam Ondra anymore, we’re still impressed with his onsighting skills.
2011 Lead World Cup Series Launches in France
7/14/11 – The first Lead World Cup of 2011 kicked off this week in Chamonix, France, just a few days before the World Championships in Arco, Italy.
Robinson Opens V14 in South Africa
7/11/11 – Paul Robinson has been climbing in South Africa since late June, and he has opened his first V14 there: Mirta.
Siegrist Onsights 5.14 in Ten Sleep
7/8/11 – Less than three weeks after putting up Washington State’s hardest sport route, Jonathan Siegrist onsighted Doomsday (5.14a) Tuesday in Ten Sleep, Wyoming.
First Ski Descent of Huge Denali South Face
7/8/11 – Swedish extreme skier Andreas Fransson recently completed the first ski descent of the huge South Face of Denali in Alaska.
Pringle Flashes Black Shadow (V12/13)
7/7/11 – Ethan Pringle has flashed Black Shadow (V12/13) in Rocklands, South Africa.
Caprez Makes First Female Ascent of Famous 5.14a
7/7/11 – Swiss climber Nina Caprez has made the first female ascent of Silbergeier, a 240-meter, six-pitch, 5.14a beast on the IV Kirchlispitze in the Rätikon mountain range, Swiss Alps.
Sport Climbing Considered for 2020 Olympic Games
7/6/11 – The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has announced a shortlist of sports that will be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic Games, among which includes climbing.
Puccio Third, Woods Fourth in Sheffield Cup
7/5/11 – Akiyo Noguchi (Japan) and Kilian Fischhuber (Austria) stood atop the podium at last weekend’s Bouldering World Cup in Sheffield, England.
MacLeod Makes Long-Awaited FFA of Longhope (5.14)
6/30/11 – U.K. climber Dave MacLeod made the first free ascent of a 1,550-foot, ninepitch trad route on St. John’s Head on the island of Hoy, Scotland.
Asa Firestone Receives Zack Martin Breaking Barriers Grant 2011
6/29/11 – The American Alpine Club announced Asa Firestone as the recipient of the Zack Martin Breaking Barriers grant for 2011.
Jonathan Siegrist: Q&A about New World Order (5.14c)
6/28/11 – Jonathan Siegrist recently finished a project at Little Si, Washington, that he’s proposing to be 5.14c.
Russians Climb West Face of Latok III
6/28/11 – A Russian expedition has completed the first ascent of the west face of 6,949-meter (22,799-foot) Latok III in Pakistan, nearly 20 years after it was first attempted.
Payne, Vorotnikov Take EMS Pro Comp in NY
6/27/11 – More than 20,000 spectators gathered to watch Angie Payne and Vasya Vorotnikov take top honors at the Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Tour in Central Park, New York City, this past weekend.
Alexes Finish in Top 10 in Barcelona
6/27/11 – American women Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson made a strong showing at the Bouldering World Cup in Barcelona last weekend.
Petzl Recall on GRIGRI 2
6/23/11 – Petzl announces a recall on all GRIGRI 2 units with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326-11136.
Woods Takes Second in Eindhoven Cup
6/19/11 – Daniel Woods narrowly missed a first-place finish at the Netherlands Bouldering World Cup this weekend in Eindhoven.
Oddo Makes FA of 5.15a
6/16/11 – 16-year-old Enzo Oddo has made the first ascent of La moustache qui fâche (5.15a) at Entraygues, France.
Honnold Free Solos The Phoenix (5.13)
6/15/11 – According to a report on supertopo.com, Alex Honnold has free soloed The Phoenix (5.13a) in Yosemite National Park.
Webb, Voges Blaze Through Lincoln Lake
6/9/11 – Southeastern climbers Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges are spending some time in Colorado and have been dispatching repeats of Lincoln Lake’s hardest problems.
Siegrist Completes Just Do It (5.14c) at Smith
6/9/11 – Jonathan Siegrist has completed Just Do It (5.14c) at Smith Rock, Oregon.
|AAC Announces $25,000 Grant Program
6/8/11 – The American Alpine Club is now accepting applications for their new grant, the Cornerstone Conservation Grant.
American Alpine Club Launches Cornerstone Conservation Grant
The American Alpine Club is now accepting applications for their new grant, the Cornerstone Conservation Grant.
Kimball Establishes New 5.14s in Clear Creek
6/6/11 – Brian Kimball has been busy these past few months reinventing the New River Wall in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado.
Remote First Ascent in Alaska Range
6/7/11 – Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman did the first ascent of an extremely remote 12,214-foot peak in the Alaska Range in May, the culmination of two visits to the isolated—and possibly unvisited—Northwest Fork of the Lacuna Glacier, as well as three separate attempts on the mountain.
Austrians Dominate Vail, Puccio Takes Second
6/5/11 – Throngs of spectators gathered at yesterday’s Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado, to watch Austrian power couple Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr dominate finals.
AAC Leader Suffers Serious Accident
6/2/11 – Today, the Club would like to congratulate Phil on his release from the hospital.
Puccio 6th, Johnson 7th at Canmore Cup
5/31/11 – The latest Bouldering World Cup took place in Canmore this weekend—the first time Canada has hosted an IFSC comp.
Colorado’s Hallucinogen Wall Free-Climbed
5/27/11 – Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer free-climbed the Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in mid-April at 5.13+ R.
New Line on Hunter’s North Buttress
5/25/11 – British climbers Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker spent six days in May climbing a new line on Mt. Hunter’s 4,000-foot north buttress.
5.15a Second Ascent for Ondra
5/23/11 – No rest for the (un)weary: on a recent trip to England, Adam Ondra snagged the second ascent of Steve McClure’s Overshadow at Malham Cove, for which McClure proposed 5.15a after his FA in 2007.
First Female Ascent of Propaganda (V12/13)
5/19/11 – Norwegian climber Therese Johansen has repeated Propaganda, a boulder problem in Vingsand, Norway, that Bernd Zangerl gave V13 after his first ascent in 2010.
Everest and Lhotse in Less Than 21 Hours
5/17/11 – American guide Michael Horst has climbed Mt. Everest and Lhotse, the highest and fourth-highest mountains in the world, with less than 21 hours between the two summits.
Puccio Nabs Second Place in World Cup
5/16/11 – The third leg of the Bouldering World Cup took place in Vienna, Austria, last weekend.
Oddo Repeats Aubade Direct (5.14d/15a)
5/12/11 – Sixteen-year-old Enzo Oddo has repeated Aubade Direct (5.14d/15a) at Sainte Victoire in France.
Puccio 3rd, Johnson 10th in World Cup
5/9/11 – The Bouldering World Cup circuit saw its second comp of the 2011 season at Log-Dragomer, Slovenia, this past weekend.
Sharma Climbs Two 5.15s in a Day
5/6/11 – Just two weeks after Chris Sharma finished his infamous First Round First Minute project in Margalef, Spain, he came back to climb a 5.15b and 5.15a at Oliana in the same day.
Earle Frees Hard Crack in Indian Creek
5/5/11 – Mason Earle has put up what might be one of the hardest crack climbs in Indian Creek: Hot Pork Sunday (5.13+).
Graham Establishes Potential V14 in RMNP
5/4/11 – Dave Graham has established a new problem in Endo Valley, Rocky Mountain National Park: Glow in the Dark Estrellas.
2011 Copp-Dash Inspire Award Winners Announced
5/4/11 – Winners of the 2011 Copp-Dash Inspire Awards have been announced.
Beautiful New Alpine Route in Rockies
5/4/11 – Joshua Lavigne and Raphael Slawinski climbed a beautiful new mixed route on the north face of Mt. Patterson in the Canadian Rockies on May Day, to the right of the famous Riptide ice climb.
Mexican Climber Nabs Second Ascent of Ghetto Booty (5.14c/d)
5/3/11 – After more than a decade, one of America’s hardest routes had yet to see a repeat.
Puccio Takes Down V12 in Magic Wood
5/2/11 – Alex Puccio climbed Jack’s Broken Heart (V12) and The Right Hand of Darkness (V11) in Magic Wood, Switzerland, today.
Era Bella (5.14d) Repeated by Two Teenagers
4/29/11 – Hard repeats in Spain are being fired left and right.
Second Female Ascent of Pura Vida (V12/13)
4/28/11 – Germany’s Dorothea Karalus has made the third female ascent of Magic Wood’s Pura Vida (V12/13).
Harrington Fires Full Equip (5.14b)
4/28/11 – Emily Harrington has climbed Full Equip (5.14b) in Oliana, Spain, marking her eighth 5.14 send.
|Another Potential 5.15b by Ondra
4/26/11 – A day after his first ascent of La Planta de Shiva (5.15b)—and on his last day in Spain—Adam Ondra casually added several more 5.14s to his résumé.
Zion’s Lunar X Goes Free at 5.13
4/25/11 – Utah climber Nik Berry has made the first free ascent of Lunar Ecstasy (aka Lunar X), a classic aid route on the Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park.
Everest Pioneer Nawang Gombu Dies at 79
4/25/11 – Nawang Gombu Sherpa, who accompanied Jim Whittaker to the summit during the first American ascent of Mt. Everest, in 1963, died at home in India on April 24.
Steck Solos Shishapangma in 10.5 Hours
4/22/11 – More details have emerged on Ueli Steck’s extremely rapid ascent of Shishapangma, including specific times along the route.
Swiss Climber Breaks Eiger Speed Record
4/21/11 – Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has set a new speed record on the north face of the Eiger.
Woods Gets Wild in Switzerland
4/21/11 – There might be a new post every day regarding another Daniel Woods ascent in Switzerland.
Sharma Sends First Round, First Minute
4/19/11 – Chris Sharma turns 30 on Saturday, and his birthday gift to himself was a send of his longtime project, First Round, First Minute, in Margalef, Spain.
World Cup Season Kicks Off in Italy
4/19/11 – The 2011 World Cup season kicked off this past weekend in Milano, Italy, with a bouldering and speed competition.
Logan, Greenland Climbs Earn Piolets d’Or
4/16/11 – Two teams of climbers were honored with the 2011 Piolets d’Or, the annual prizes awarded in Chamonix, France, and Courmayeur, Italy, for the most inspiring ascents of the previous year.
Adirondacks Pioneer Dies at 101
4/15/11 – Jim Goodwin died on April 7, 2011.
SCS National Championships 2011 Results
4/14/11 – USA Climbing has issued yet another apology regarding the scoring at SCS Nationals.
Nine-year-old Sends Double Digits
4/14/11 – Julien Jarry provides nice photos of Ashima Shiraishi from her trip to Hueco Tanks, Texas, in March, including shots of her working Martini Right, here.
Ondra Grabs Ascent of Chilam Balam
4/13/11 – Not wasting any time, Adam Ondra has climbed Chilam Balam, Spaniard Bernabé Fernández’s controversial route in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain.
Woods Fires Off More Euro Sends
4/13/11 – Daniel Woods continues his European tour.
Taylor Has Pure Imagination (5.14d)
4/11/11 – News link: Adam Taylor of Kentucky redpointed Jonathan Siegrist’s Pure Imagination (5.14d) at the Chocolate Factory in the Red River Gorge, making the route’s second ascent.
Siegrist Repeats Golden Direct (5.14d)
4/11/11 – News link: Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Joe Kinder’s Golden Direct (5.14d) at the Cathedral near St. George, Utah.
Wharton Speeds Up the Eiger
4/7/11 – On April 7, Josh Wharton onsight soloed the north face of the Matterhorn in about five hours.
Lachat Redpoints Papichulo (5.15a)
4/6/11 – Swiss climber Cédric Lachat has redpointed Chris Sharma’s Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain.
A New Level: Ondra Onsights Five 5.14c’s—UPDATED
4/5/11 – Not even wet rock can keep Adam Ondra from onsighting 5.14c.
Woods Arrives in Europe, Puts Away V14
4/4/11 – News link: Riding the train of Americans climbing in Europe, Daniel Woods arrived in Munich on April 1 and promptly dispatched Purring Puma (V14) in Zillertal, Austria, on April 2.
Believe It… Or Not
4/1/11 – April Fool’s Day is upon us, and while Climbing was busy working to get the May issue out the door today, many other climbing sites made sure the joke wasn’t on them.
Another V12 for Pidgeon
3/31/11 – News link: Thomasina Pidgeon has climbed Beautiful Gecko (V12) at the Sad Boulders in Bishop.
Kinder Has Tiger Blood (5.14c)
3/29/11 – News link: Joe Kinder completed a new route at the Blank Wall in Utah, naming it Tiger Blood and suggesting 5.14c.
Major First Ascent in Alaska
3/29/11 – Clint Helander and Scotty Vincik have completed the first ascent of Mt. Mausolus in the Revelation Mountains, at the far southwestern end of the Alaska Range.
Ondra: 5.15b FA, 5.14c Onsight in Same Day
3/28/11 – After having the best climbing trip ever, Ondra outdid himself by grabbing the first ascent of Chris Sharma’s 5.15b project, Chaxi Raxi, in Oliana, Spain, on Sunday.
|Spain’s First V15 Goes Up
3/25/11 – News link: Spanish climber Nacho Sanchez established his country’s first V15 after a year and a half of effort.
DiGiulian Sends Lucifer (5.14c) at the Red
3/24/11 – Sasha DiGiulian redpointed Lucifer today at the Purgatory, Red River Gorge, making the route’s first female ascent.
Woods Goes on the Warpath
3/24/11 – Daniel Woods has repeated James Litz’s Warpath (V14/15?) in Castle Rock, Idaho.
Robinson Grabs Fifth European V15
3/24/11 – Paul Robinson made the second ascent of Angama (V15) yesterday, a Dai Koyamada problem in Fontainebleau.
Another Hard Onsight for DiGiulian
3/24/11 – Sasha DiGiulian continues her successful stay at the Red River Gorge with an onsight of Last of the Bohicans (5.13d), which sits left of Omaha Beach (5.14a) in the Madness Cave at The Motherlode.
Beautiful New Ice in Alaska
3/23/11 – Ryan Johnson and Jason Nelson climbed several big, beautiful new ice routes in an area south of Juneau believed to have been previously unvisited by ice climbers.
DiGiulian Climbs 5.14c at RRG
3/22/11 – Sasha DiGiulian onsighted Omaha Beach (5.14a) this morning at the Madness Cave at the Red.
Wyoming Sees Successful Winter Season
3/18/11 – No Wyoming ice climber in recent years have been as prolific at new routing as Cody-based Aaron Mulkey, and this winter was no exception.
Piolet d’Or Nominees Announced
3/15/11 – Three Americans are among the climbers whose ascents have been nominated for the Piolet d’Or, the annual prize celebrating high-level alpinism and traditional climbing.
Ondra Opens Another 5.15 in Spain—UPDATED
3/14/11 – News link: Still on a tear through Spain’s hardest sport climbs, Adam Ondra opened Obrint el Sistema in Santa Ana, Spain, on Sunday, suggesting 5.15a for the route.
Playing The Game in Boulder Canyon
3/14/11 – This weekend, Carlo Traversi made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ The Game in Boulder Canyon—the problem made famous for its suggested V16 rating in February 2010.
Hueco Gets New 25-Move Roof Problem—UPDATED
3/10/11 – Hueco saw another roof problem go up yesterday when Daniel Woods put up The House of Doom, suggesting V13, on the East Spur.
Ghost Busters in New Hampshire
3/9/11 – Seizing the day after a March downpour followed by single-digit lows, Kevin Mahoney and Elliot Gaddy climbed The Ghost on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire as a pure ice route—likely the first time this has been done, as well as the first free ascent of the route.
Robinson Grabs 2nd Ascent of V15
3/8/11 – Paul Robinson has finally closed the book on The Story of Two Worlds (V15), a Dave Graham problem on the Dreamtime boulder in Cresciano, Switzerland.
AAC Unveils Awards, Major Initiatives
3/3/11 – The 109-year-old American Alpine Club held its annual meeting and benefit dinner in Seattle last weekend, and along with the usual awards and presentations, the club announced sweeping changes to its direction for the coming years.
High-End Free Climbing In Patagonia
2/25/11 – Three teams of climbers recently completed impressive new free routes and linkups on peaks in southern Patagonia.
Big Action in the Alps
2/24/11 – News link: During a prolonged spell of high pressure in the Alps, many significant ascents were completed on the range’s greatest faces.
Hukkataival, Other Euros Crush in Bishop
2/23/11 – Finnish powerhouse Nalle Hukkataival has been crushing stateside, spending about three weeks in Bishop, California.
ABS 12 Youth Nationals Results
2/23/11 – Just a week after ABS 12 National Championships, ABS 12 Youth Nationals transpired in the same warehouse in Boulder, Colorado.
AAC Announces 2011 Lyman Spitzer, McNeill-Nott Awards
2/23/11 – The American Alpine Club has announced its 2011 grant recipients for both the McNeill-Nott Award and the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award.
Ondra’s New Spanish 5.15b
2/17/11 – Adam Ondra has climbed a potential 5.15b, La Capella, in Siurana, Spain.
Oddo Nabs 4th Ascent of Ambrosia (V11)
2/17/11 – Enzo Oddo, a 15-year-old French crusher, has repeated Kevin Jorgeson’s Ambrosia (V11), making the fourth ascent of the 45-foot-tall highball/free solo (after Jorgeson, Alex Honnold, and Isaac Caldiero).
Slew of FAs in Patagonia
2/16/11 – Teams from around the world took advantage of recent warm and stable weather in southern Patagonia, establishing a plethora of new routes and first free ascents between February 7 and 13.
McColl, Puccio Win ABS 12 Nationals
2/14/11 – Hundreds of spectators, extensive lighting and audio systems, a brand-spankin’-new climbing wall, and 15 finalists filled the warehouse in Boulder where the ABS 12 National Championships were held Saturday night—the first time ABS Nationals has not taken place in a climbing gym.
Another V15 for Robinson
2/9/11 – As weather seemed to deteriorate everywhere, Paul Robinson took advantage of a good weather window in Fontainebleau, France, and repeated Sebastien Frigault’s 2003 Trip Hop (V15).
|First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum II
2/2/11 – Simone Moro, Cory Richards, and Denis Urubko summited Gasherbrum II (8,035m/26,362′) in Pakistan, the thirteenth-highest mountain in the world, reaching the top around 11:30 a.m. local time today.
Endangered Species: To the Top
2/1/11 – Early in the morning of January 30, New Hampshire climbers Kevin Mahoney and Freddie Wilkinson drove across two states to the Adirondacks in New York and did the second ascent of Endangered Species (NEI5+ M6+ R) at Poke-O-Moonshine.
New V13, V14 Roof Problems in Tennessee, Colorado
1/31/11 – This weekend, two V-hard, long roof problems went up more than 1,000 miles apart.
Brit Expat Sends Spanish 5.14d/15a
1/31/11 – On January 20, Brit Tom Bolger climbed Edu Marin’s Ciudad de Dios (5.14d/5.15a) in Santa Linya, Spain.
Menegatti Gets Second Ascent of Big Island (V15)
1/28/11 – News link: Today in Fontainebleau, Lucas Ménégatti bagged the second ascent of The Big Island, a V15 extension to Dave Graham’s The Island (V14), put up by Vincent Pochon in early 2010.
Proposed Bolt Policy Affects Climbers, Major Parks
1/28/11 – The National Park Service has proposed a new policy for bolting in wilderness areas that could have significant impacts on climbers establishing new routes or replacing fixed anchors.
Spray On: 250 Feet of Overhanging Ice
1/27/11- Tim Emmett and Will Gadd have added four short pitches to the wild overhanging ice cave behind Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, creating a 250-foot line to the lip of the cave.
Cerro Torre Controversy Rears Up Again
1/24/11 – Austrian climber David Lama is back in El Chalten, Argentina, intent on free-climbing the southeast ridge (“Compressor Route”) of Cerro Torre.
Major Ice Climb in Adirondacks
1/18/11 – In 1996, Jeff Lowe and Ed Palen scratched up the first ascent of Gorillas in the Mist, a 500-foot thin-ice testpiece at Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks.
New Routes in Patagonia
1/14/11 – On the first day of January, Americans Neil Kauffman and Jim Toman climbed a new route on Cerro Pollone in Argentinean Patagonia and, in the process, completed the first ascent of Cerro Pollone East.
2011 Ice Climbing World Cup Opens in Korea
1/13/11 – News link: The 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup kicked off last weekend in Cheongsong, Korea.
Americans Bag New Route in Patagonia
1/8/11 – Colin Haley, Jens Holsten, and Mikey Schaefer teamed up on December 28 to climb a new route on the east side of Aguja Mermoz in Argentinean Patagonia.
American Makes Second Ascent of 22-year-old 5.14c
1/3/11 – News link: Cody Roth managed the first repeat of Italy’s Maurizio “Manolo” Zanolla route, Malvasya, at Dvigrad in Croatia that was bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988.
December 2010 Hueco Tanks Roundup
1/3/11 – Hueco Tanks, Texas, saw a slew of hard ascents in December, including a new V14 by Daniel Woods.
Robinson Kicks Off 2011 in Font—UPDATED
Updated 1/4/11 – After an impressive run of hard ascents in Switzerland, Paul Robinson spent his holiday taking down more boulders in Fontainebleau, France.
French Pioneer Big Peak in Nepal
12/21/10 – Four French climbers have done the first ascent of Lunag II near the Nepal-Tibet border by a long mixed route.
Sharma Opens 5.15a in Oliana, Spain
12/20/10 – News link: Just as Ethan Pringle wrapped up a Chris Sharma–equipped route in China, Sharma himself opened a new 5.15a in Oliana, Spain, called Power Inverter.
Pringle Claims 5.14d FA in China
12/20/10 – After three days of attempts, Ethan Pringle has managed the first ascent of Spicy Dumpling (5.14d) in Yangshuo, China.
Americans Climb Stunning Ice Line in Nepal
12/20/10 – News link: Joel Kauffman and Jared Vilhauer have climbed a beautiful ice runnel on the southwest face of Lobuje East (6,119m/20,075′) in Nepal’s Khumbu Himal.
Kinder Unfurls the Centerfold (5.14b)
12/13/10 – Joe Kinder finished a project last week in the Virgin River Gorge’s Fossil Cave in Arizona, a 5.14b he calls Centerfold.
Robinson Cleans Up From Dirt
12/13/10 – News link: Paul Robinson is showing no signs of slowing down in Switzerland: On Sunday, he climbed From Dirt Grows the Flowers (V15) in Chironico for a likely fifth ascent.
Pringle Climbs Spicy Noodle, Other 5.14s
12/9/10 – 2010 has been a successful year for Ethan Pringle.
Peewee Goes Big on U.S. Cracks—UPDATED
12/8/10 – Canadian Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet has climbed several of the United States’ hardest trad routes during a six-week road trip this fall, and he’s very close to redpointing a fourth.
More 5.14 Female Ascents—UPDATED
12/7/10 – Two more 5.14 ascents have gone down recently, by two females on two continents.
New 16-pitch 5.13d in Venezuela
12/7/10 – Germans Stefan Glowacz and Holger Heuber have climbed a new line on the La Proa wall at the Roraima Tepuis in Venezuela: Behind the Rainbow (5.13d, 16 pitches).
|Robinson Bags Second Ascent of V14
12/3/10 – News link: Paul Robinson has made the second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival’s Ninja Skills (V14) in Sobrio, Switzerland.
Haley: First Solo of Cerro Standhardt
12/1/10 – News link: Last week, Colin Haley made the first solo ascent of Cerro Standhardt via the Exocet route during a two-day good-weather window in Argentinean Patagonia.
Swizzy Bouldering Rundown
11/3/10 – News link: Paul Robinson’s extended vacation in Switzerland has turned out some impressive sends.
Dempster, Normand Climb China’s Mt. Edgar
11/29/10 – American Kyle Dempster and Scottish climber Bruce Normand have climbed the east face and south ridge of Mt. Edgar (6,618m/21,713′), completing the second ascent of the peak—the same objective held by Jonny Copp and Micah Dash when they were killed by an avalanche below the mountain in 2009.
Siegrist Lays Down Another Red Project
11/18/10 – News link: Yesterday, Jonathan Siegrist finished up another project at the Red River Gorge, this time at the Gold Coast wall.
Jain, Puigblanque are Lead World Cup Champs
11/15/10 – News link: At the Lead World Cup Championships in Kranj, Slovenia, Ramón Julian Puigblanque of Spain and Kim Jain of Korea topped the podium, giving them the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) Lead World Cup champion title for 2010.
Potential V15 in Austria
11/12/10 – News link: Austrian climber Bernhard “Berni” Schwaiger has proposed another V15: Whirlwind.
Pringle, Siegrist Send Hard 5.14s at the Red
11/8/10 – News link: Ethan Pringle bagged the second ascent of The Golden Ticket (5.14c/d) at the Red River Gorge’s Chocolate Factory on Friday.
Speed Race on the Nose Heats Up
11/8/10 – Sean Leary and Dean Potter have broken the two-year-old speed record for climbing the Nose of El Capitan, climbing the 31-pitch route in 2 hours 36 minutes 45 seconds.
Honnold and Stanhope Interview: Southern Belle (5.12d R)
11/5/10 – Alex Honnold and Will Stanhope completed the third free ascent of Half Dome’s notoriously runout Southern Belle (5.12d R) this week.
Houlding Frees El Cap’s Prophet (5.13d R)
11/3/10 – News link: In late October, British climber Leo Houlding made the first free ascent of an almost ten-year project on El Capitan: The Prophet (5.13d R, 13 pitches, 1,800 feet).
Brits Complete Major New Route in India
11/3/10 – News Link: Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg have done the first ascent of the West Face of Vasuki Parbat (6,792m/22,283′), a little-known but major peak in northern India’s Gangotri area.
Joe Puryear Killed in Tibet
10/27/10 – Joe Puryear, author of the Alaska Climbing guidebook and also one of America’s most successful Himalayan mountaineers in recent years, has reportedly been killed in a climbing accident in Tibet.
Sharma Takes DWS Comp in Bilbao, Spain
10/27/10 – News link: Last weekend, a unique climbing competition took place in Bilbao, Spain: a deep water soloing comp on the Bilbao Estuary.
Webb Parsons: Another Magic Wood V15
10/19/10 – News link: Another V15 has gone up in Magic Wood, this time by Australian Chris Webb Parsons: Believe in Two.
Ondra’s Tough Enough: Madagascar 5.14
10/18/10 – News link: On his recent trip to Madagascar, Adam Ondra free-climbed Tough Enough, a 380-meter, 5.14a on the east face of the Karambony formation at the Tsaranoro Massif, in a single day.
Kinder Sends 5.14c Rifle Project
10/15/10 – Joe Kinder finished another hard Rifle, Colorado, project yesterday with Waka Flocka Flame (5.14c), a link-up that starts on Waka Flocka (5.14b) and leads into Living the Dream (5.14a).
Another Free Line on North Face of Eiger
10/15/10 – Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli, well-known German and Swiss professional mountaineers, became the first climbers to free-climb the John Harlin direttissima (“most direct”) route with the Heckmair exit on the north face of the Eiger.
Vasya Vorotnikov Interview: China Glide (5.14d)
10/13/10 – On October 10, Vasya Vorotnikov nabbed the third ascent of China Glide (5.14d) at Rumney’s Waimea Wall.
Americans Climb Big New Routes in China
10/13/10 – A small group of American climbers has pulled off two major first ascents in the Changping Valley of Sichuan, China, completing the first ascent of a much-tried 18,346-foot mountain named Seerdengpu and new route on striking Celestial Peak.
New Magic Wood V15 by Robinson
10/13/10 – Paul Robinson has proposed V15 for a new problem in Magic Wood, Switzerland: Ill Trill.
Traversi Ends the Never Ending Story
10/7/10 – News link: Carlo Traversi climbed the Never Ending Story (V14) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
Beautiful North Face Climbed in China
10/6/10 – Ace British alpinists Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden completed the first ascent of the north face of Sulamar in the Chinese Tien Shan range.
Woods Sends 5.15a in Rumney, NH
10/5/10 – Yesterday, Daniel Woods made the second ascent of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, New Hampshire.
Midtboe Pulls Off V15 in Norway
9/30/10 – News link: Norwegian climber Magnus Midtboe climbed Blood Redemption, a sit-start extension to Gjeddehenget (V13/14) in Bergen, Norway.
|Claassen Dispatches Grand Ol’ Opry at Monastery
9/29/10 – On September 27, Paige Claassen grabbed the fourth—and first female—ascent of Tommy Caldwell’s Grand Ol’ Opry at the Monastery in Estes Park, Colorado, after 13 days of effort.
Kurt Albert Dead at 56
9/29/10 – Kurt Albert died on September 28 as the result of injuries from a fall on a via ferrata route in Germany three days earlier.
Stohr Claims Second Female V13 Send
9/27/10 – Following a strong summer of multiple Bouldering World Cup wins and podium finishes, Anna Stohr has become the second woman in the world to send a confirmed V13: Riverbed in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
Robinson Finishes The Never Ending Story in Magic Wood
9/24/10 – News link: On September 21, Paul Robinson climbed The Never Ending Story (V14) in Magic Wood, Switzerland, on his second try that day.
New Route near Mt. Whitney in High Sierra
9/21/10 – In late August, Bernd Zeugswetter, Hjördis Rickert, and Greg Corliss established a new route near Mt. Whitney in the Sierra Nevada.
Siegrist Conquers Kryptonite, America’s first 5.14d
9/14/10 – On Sunday, September 12, Jonathan Siegrist realized a longtime dream: an ascent of Kryptonite (5.14d) at the Fortress of Solitude in western Colorado.
2010 Youth Worlds in Scotland
9/13/10 – The World Youth Championships transpired this past weekend in Edinburgh, Scotland, where more than 430 competitors gathered from almost 40 different countries.
New Route on the Titan in Fisher Towers
9/10/10 – News link: After nine days of climbing over six months, Paul Gagner and Jeremy Aslaksen have established a new aid route on the Titan in the Fisher Towers, Utah: Gimp Warfare (5.9, A3, eight pitches).
5.15a, 5.14d FAs for Ondra
9/7/10 – News link: Czech climber Adam Ondra has opened two new routes that were bolted by Frenchman Sylvain Millet in the Biographie sector of Céüse.
Oh Eun-sun’s 8,000er Record Challenged
9/2/10 – News link: On April 27, Korean Oh Eun-sun summited 26,545-foot Annapurna, and news stories worldwide declared she was the first woman to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks.
More Hard Ascents at Lincoln Lake – UPDATED
9/7/10 — As the summer alpine season draws to a close, hard boulder problems continue to be climbed at Colorado’s latest hotspot: Lincoln Lake (aka Woverineland) below the road to Mt. Evans.
New 5.12a on the Diamond
8/30/10 – Chris Weidner and Bruce Miller have completed a new free line up the center of the Diamond on Longs Peak in Colorado.
Usobiaga, Kim Take Gold in Lead in Korea
8/30/10 – Spaniard Patxi Usobiaga and Korean Jain Kim topped the men’s and women’s podium in lead climbing this past weekend in at the World Cup in Chuncheon, Korea.
Midtbö Repeats 5.15b in Spain
8/30/2010 – Norwegian climber Magnus Midtbö has repeated Dani Andrada’s 5.15b sit-start extension to Alí Hulk in the Alí Baba cave in Rodellar, Spain.
Robinson Grabs Second Ascent of Rocklands V15
8/25/10 – Paul Robinson has made the second ascent of Fred Nicole’s Monkey Wedding (V15) in Rocklands, South Africa, which Nicole established in 2002.
Huge Link-Up on Sierra’s Incredible Hulk
8/24/10 – Peter Croft and Matt Ciancio linked four full-length routes on the Incredible Hulk, a steep, 1,200-foot granite wall in the northern Sierra Nevada, in a long day of climbing in late July.
Haley, Schaefer Link Devil’s Thumb Peaks
8/22/10 – Colin Haley and Mikey Schaefer have completed the first ascent of the Diablo Traverse on the Devil’s Thumb massif on the Stikine Icecap region.
Chloe Graftiaux Dies in the Alps
8/23/10 – On Saturday, August 21, Belgian climber Chloé Graftiaux died after falling from the South Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc.
Oddo Repeats Realization, Ondra Crushes France
News link: Fifteen-year-old French crusher Enzo Oddo has repeated Chris Sharma’s Realization (5.15a) in Céüse (this was his seventh route of 5.14d or harder).
Honnold and Stanhope on the Chief: Four Routes in a Day
8/16/10 – On July 30, Alex Honnold added a Squamish enchainment to his impressive résumé of link-ups.
First Winter Ascent of Torre Egger
8/11/10 – Swiss climbers Stephan Siegrist and Dani Arnold and German Thomas Senf made the first winter ascent of Torre Egger, a 2,685-meter peak in Argentine Patagonia next to Cerro Torre.
Woods, Puccio Win at OR UBC Tour
8/5/10 – The United Bouldering Championship’s 2010 tour has completed its second of three stops at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in Salt Lake City.
Big New Route on Greenland’s “Impossible Wall”
8/5/10 – In mid-July, brothers Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva, and Ben Ditto established The Devil’s Brew, an 850-meter route on the Seagull Wall, a steep rock face on the west coast of Greenland.
Ondra, Noguchi Win 2010 Bouldering World Cup
8/2/10 – As the 2010 Bouldering World Cup season came to an end last weekend in Munich, Czech wunderkind Adam Ondra took the gold for the men, while Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi topped the medal platform for the women, making this year her second consecutive BWC victory.
Two New North American World Cups in 2011
7/30/10 – A Lead Climbing World Cup will take place in the United States for the first time in about two decades in the fall of 2011, according to a provisional schedule of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC).
|Erik Weihenmayer Interview: Alpamayo Ascent
7/28/10 – When he was 13, just heading into his freshman year of high school, Erik Weihenmayer lost his eyesight, impeding his ability to play baseball, soccer, and basketball—some of the things that define boys in their teenage years.
Two Deaths in Grand Teton National Park
7/23/10 – Two deaths and more than a dozen injuries marked the past few days in Grand Teton National Park.
2010 Arco RockMaster Champions and Legends Winners
7/19/10 – This weekend saw competition greats gathering in Arco, Italy, for the RockMaster 2010, one of the most prestigious competitions in the climbing world.
U.S. Youth Teams Selected from SCS Nationals
7/16/10 – The newly-opened Stone Summit in Atlanta, Georgia, the largest climbing gym in the nation, inaugurated its second month with the 2010 SCS Youth National Championships, drawing more than 300 of the nation’s most talented young climbers.
Lead and Speed World Cup Wrap-up from Chamonix
7/13/10 – The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Lead and Speed World Cups wrapped up today in Chamonix, France, with Spain’s Ramón Julian Puigblanque and French climber Charlotte Durif finishing first in the men’s and women’s lead comp.
Free Rider Sees First Female-Team Free Ascent
7/9/10 – Recently, Madaleine Sorkin and Kate Rutherford completed the first female-team free ascent of Free Rider (VI 5.12d, 37 pitches), a four-pitch variation to the Salathé Wall that is the most popular free line on the main face of El Cap.
5.14b FA by Jacinda Hunter
7/9/10 – A little over a week ago, Jacinda Hunter, 31, nabbed the FA of her project Fantasy Island, a 5.14b in Utah’s American Fork Canyon.
Big New Mixed Route on Mount Foraker
7/9/10 – In mid-June, Colin Haley and Bjørn-Eivind Årtun teamed up and established a new mixed route on the Southeast Face of Mount Foraker in Alaska.
Honnold’s Triple Link-up on El Cap
News link: Alex Honnold, most recently in the media for his speedy solo link-up of the Regular Northwest Face and the Nose, returned to El Cap with Sean Leary to do a triple link-up of the Nose, Salathé Wall, and Lurking Fear in a single day.
Graftiaux Back on Top in World Cup Rankings
7/6/10 – The second-to-last Bouldering World Cup of 2010 transpired this past weekend in Sheffield, England, where a crowd of more than 20,000 amassed to watch the world’s highest-ranked climbers battle it out.
Stohr Seals Another Win in Holland
6/28/10 – The fifth round of neck-and-neck Bouldering World Cup action continued last weekend in Eindhoven, Holland.
Honnold Breaks More Yosemite Speed Records
6/25/10 – On June 22, Alex Honnold did a solo link-up of the Regular Northwest Face (5.12a, 23 pitches) of Half Dome and the Nose (5.9, C1, 31 pitches), breaking several Yosemite speed records.
The Wheel of Life 3rd Ascent – Updated with Pringle Interview
6/24/10 – After recovering from a serious shoulder injury sustained in February 2009 at ABS Nationals, Ethan Pringle has bagged the third ascent of The Wheel of Life at the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia.
Arco Rock Legends Nominees Announced
6/22/10 – Nominees have been announced for the Arco Rock Legends competition, which will have its fifth annual competition on Saturday, July 17 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy).
Stohr, Ondra Prevail in Moscow Bouldering World Cup
6/22/10 – This past weekend, Austrian Anna Stohr pulled off a gold at the Bouldering World Cup in Moscow, with Belgium’s Chloe Graftiaux following close behind with the silver.
Two Big Climbs in the Hayes Range
6/17/10 – Ryan Hokanson and Samuel Johnson have climbed one major new route and one new line without a summit in the Hayes group of the eastern Alaska Range.
Japanese Score Major Successes in Alaska
6/9/10 – In an Alaska season when many teams have struggled to climb anything but moderate classics, a trio of Japan’s Giri Giri Boys have climbed two new routes in the Ruth Gorge and a major repeat on Denali.
Woods, Graftiaux Win World Cup in Vail
6/5/10 – Daniel Woods and Chloe Graftiaux of Belgium took top honors at 2010′s third Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado.
Huge First Ascent in Remote Baffin Valley
6/3/10 – Stuart McAleese, Mark Thomas, and Mike “Twid” Turner have climbed an enormous granite prow in Baffin Island’s super-remote Stewart Valley.
2010 Teva Mountain Games Kick Off Thursday, June 3
6/2/10 – The Vail Valley Foundation has announced the full lineup and daily schedule of adventure sports, outdoor entertainment and arts for the 9th annual Teva Mountain Games this weekend, June 3 – 6 in Vail, Colorado.
World Cup Wrap-up from Vienna
6/1/10 – At the second Bouldering World Cup of 2010 in Vienna, Austria, Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi and Momoka Oda ruled the women’s podium while Austria’s Kilian Fischhuber continued his reign in men’s finals.
Interview: Traversi Nabs Sixth Ascent of Jade – Updated
5/28/10 – On May 27 in Rocky Mountain National Park, Carlo Traversi completed the sixth ascent of Jade, a notoriously crimpy problem established in 2007 by Daniel Woods.
Metcalf, DiGiulian Crush Pan-American Comp
5/28/10 – With the completion of the Pan American Championship on May 23, American climbing has taken another step forward into the international scene.
Koyamada Interview on Story of Two Worlds
5/27/10 – The Low Down captured a great interview with Dai Koyamada, who repeated Dave Graham’s Story of Two Worlds on May 13, a V15 established in Cresciano, Switzerland.
Everest Report: Youngest, Most, and More
5/25/10 – Waves of climbers have summited Mt. Everest over the past four days from the south and north sides of the mountain, despite some high winds and snow.
|Honnold and Steck Train for Nose Speed Attempt
5/24/10 – Alex Honnold and Ueli Steck are training to attempt a new speed record on the Nose in Yosemite.
Alex Johnson’s World Cup Win: Exclusive Interview
5/18/10 – At the first Bouldering World Cup of the 2010 season in Greifensee, Switzerland, Alex Johnson blitzed the European-drenched field, taking the gold.
Trio of Huge New Ice Routes in Canada
5/18/10 – In a remarkable late-season burst of activity, three major new ice routes have been climbed on a remote wall in the Canadian Rockies.
Puccio, Woods Storm Battle in the Bubble
5/17/10 – In a repeat of their respective performances at ABS Nationals a few months ago, Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio each took first place in the finals at The Spot’s Battle in the Bubble pro invitational on Saturday.
Spanish Woman Completes 8,000er List
5/17/10 – Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban has summited Shishapangma, completing a decade-long effort to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks.
Superb New Route on Mt. Logan
5/14/10 – Japanese climbers Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama have completed one of the great unclimbed walls in North America: the south face of Mt. Logan, Canada’s highest peak.
Koyamada Repeats Story of Two Worlds
5/13/10 – Dai Koyamada from Japan has done the second ascent of The Story of Two Worlds, likely one of the hardest boulder problems in the world.
Honnold Describes Rainbow Wall Free-Solo
5/13/10 – Alex Honnold had a wild and windy mega-day at Red Rock Canyon, Nevada, at the end of April, enchaining three long routes free-solo.
Hazel Findlay Does Air Sweden (5.13R)
5/12/10 – Britain’s Hazel Findlay redpointed Air Sweden (5.13b R) at Indian Creek, Utah, possibly making the exciting route’s first female ascent.
Caldwell: One Move from Watkins Onsight
5/10/10 – At the end of his spring season in Yosemite, Tommy Caldwell paired up with Chris McNamara for a one-day attempt on the south face of Mt. Watkins (5.13a, 19 pitches), east of Yosemite Valley.
Major New Route on Alaska’s Mt. Bradley
5/6/10 – On their second attempt, Americans Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman completed a significant new route on Mt. Bradley (9,100′/2,774m) in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska in early April.
Copp-Dash Inspire Awards Announced
5/5/10 – Seven teams planning a variety of expeditions—from big-wall free climbs to major new routes at nearly 8,000 meters, and from Alaska to Pakistan— have won the first-ever Copp-Dash Inspire Awards.
Caldiero Sips Buttermilks Ambrosia
4/29/10 – Isaac Caldiero has done the third ascent of the 45-foot highball/solo Ambrosia (V11) on the Grandpa Peabody boulder at California’s Buttermilks.
Korean Woman is First Atop All 8,000ers
4/27/10 – Oh Eun-sun from Korea has summited Annapurna in Nepal, her 14th 8,000-meter peak.
Sharma Rules Pro Boulder Comp
4/27/10 – Chris Sharma, whose attention has been focused on towering 5.15 sport routes, demonstrated on Saturday that he still has the power and cool-headed competitiveness to beat America’s best in a head-to-head bouldering comp.
Americans Earn Piolet d’Or for Ascent in China
4/12/10 – The American-Scottish team of Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster, and Bruce Normand, along with Kazakh climbers Boris Dedeshko and Denis Urubko, have received 2010 Piolets d’Or for climbs they completed last year.
Ondra Sends 5.15a in Italy
4/9/10 – Czech boywonder Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Goldrake (5.15), in Cornalba, Italy.
Extreme New Route on Cholatse North Face
4/8/10 – Russian climbers Sasha Gukov, Viktor Koval, and Valera Shamalo have completed what’s likely the most difficult route on the north face of Cholatse, an extremely steep 6,440-meter (21,129-foot) peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
Father-Son New Route on Matterhorn
4/2/10 – Marco and Hervé Barmasse, a father-and-son pair of guides from northern Italy, completed a 1,200-meter new route on the south face of the Matterhorn on March 13.
Robinson Gives V16 to New Buttermilks Problem
4/1/10 – On March 30, Paul Robinson achieved the first ascent of a long-time project at the Buttermilk boulders in Bishop, calling it Lucid Dreaming.
Robinson Sends Buttermilks Project
3/30/10 – The Bishop Bouldering Blog has reported that Paul Robinson sent his long-time project at the Buttermilks in Bishop this morning.
Adam Ondra Interview
3/26/10 – In mid-March, 17-year-old Adam Ondra completed the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Golpe de Estado (9b/5.15) in Spain.
First Ascent of Daunting Nepalese Peak
3/24/10 – David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear reached the summit of Takargo on March 12, completing the first ascent of this 6,771-meter (22,215-foot) peak in the Rolwaling Himal.
Pioneering Denali Pilot Dies at 84
3/24/10 – Cliff Hudson, a pioneer of the air-taxi services that make Alaskan climbing accessible to thousands, has died at 84.
Flemming Has First Female Ascent in Eldo
3/23/10 – Jenn Flemming of Boulder, Colorado, recently redpointed the 80-foot Freeline (5.13b R) at Rincon Wall in Eldorado Canyon, achieving the first female ascent of the line, and possibly the hardest trad pitch led by a female in Eldo.
|Americans Discover Ice Bonanza in Nepal
3/23/10 – Dave Gottlieb and Joe Puryear have completed the first ascent of Takargo, a 6,771-meter (22,215-foot) peak in the Rolwaling Himal of Nepal.
Kinder Sends Backyard Project
3/17/10 – Joey Kinder succeeded in sending his most recent project, Flight of the Conchords, which sits in a 300-foot cave near Kinder’s home in Hurricane, Utah.
Gobat Smith Achieves Another 8b+
3/12/10 – New Zealand climber Mayan Gobat Smith recently achieved another 8b+ (5.14a) during a month-long trip to Milford Sound, a fjord located on the southwest coast of NZ’s South Island.
American Climb Nominated for Piolet d’Or
3/3/10 – The first ascent of a huge north face in northern China, completed last summer by Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster, with Scottish climber Bruce Normand, is one of five nominees for this year’s Piolets d’Or.
Americans Climb New Route in Chile
2/25/10 – Ian Nicholson and Graham Zimmerman have climbed the east face of Los Gemelos in the Torres del Paine area of Chilean Patagonia, likely making the third ascent of the mountain.
Climbing in the Olympics?
2/23/10 – On February 12, the full session of the International Olympic Committee formally recognized the International Federation of Sport Climbing, two years after the ISCF was granted provisional recognition.
Puccio, Woods Are Bouldering Champs
Alex Puccio and Daniel Woods finished on top at the ABS 11 National Championships at Sportrock in Alexandria, Virginia.
New Route Likely South Platte’s Hardest
2/15/10 – Jason Haas has completed the hardest pitch in Colorado’s South Platte area, a roof seam that’s protected with removable pro and might be 5.14a.
Daniel Woods: Hardest Problem in U.S.
2/12/10 – Daniel Woods has completed a short granite roof in Boulder Canyon, Colorado, that he’s graded V16—the first boulder problem given this grade in the United States, and one of the few in the world.
Mugs Stump, Polartec Grants Announced
2/08/10 – Winners of the 2010 Mugs Stump Awards and Polartec Challenge Grants have been announced.
Solo New Route on Aconcagua South Face
2/05/10 – American Chad Kellogg has soloed a dangerous new line on the famed south face of Aconcagua (6,962m/22,841′).
World’s First Water-Ice 10?
2/01/10 – Will Gadd and Tim Emmett have established a 30-meter, 45-degree overhanging ice climb behind an unfrozen waterfall in British Columbia.
Woods, Digiulian Flash U.S. Nationals
1/26/10 – Daniel Woods and Sasha Digiulian were the top American finishers at the SCS Open National Championship at Momentum gym in Sandy, Utah.
North Americans Bag New Line on Tawoche
1/25/10 – Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards overcame loose rock and dehydration to complete the first ascent of the central south buttress of Tawoche, a circa 6,500-meter (21,325′) peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
Japanese Climb West Face of Nemjung
1/20/10 – In late October, four Japanese climbers led by Himalayan veteran Osamu Tanabe completed the first ascent of the west face of Nemjung (7,140m/23,425′), near Manaslu in Nepal.
North Face of Tawoche
1/19/10 – Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura and Genki Narumi completed the first ascent of the north face of Tawoche (1,500m, VI AI5R) in Nepal’s Khumbu region in late November.
Copp and Dash Inspire New Grants
1/12/10 – The Copp-Dash Inspire Award, a major new grant program, has been created to honor the lives and storytelling abilities of Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, who died last spring in an avalanche in China along with young filmmaker Wade Dash.
New Austrian Ice Route Given WI7+
1/12/10 – Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have climbed a desperately thin and steep 300-meter ice route that they believe is WI7+, making it the hardest pure ice climb in Austria, and one of the hardest in the world.
Wharton Wins Ouray; Gadd Climbs 25,000+ Feet
1/11/10 – Josh Wharton won the mixed-climbing competition at the 15th annual Ouray Ice Festival in southwestern Colorado for the second year in a row.
Mixed Testpiece in New Hampshire
1/08/10 – White Mountains climbing guide Bayard Russell has snagged the first ascent of a stunning mixed route that has seen numerous attempts over the past few years.
The Island Gets Bigger
1/04/10 – Fontainebleau local Vincent Pochon has repeated the V15 boulder problem The Island in France, established by Dave Graham in 2008, and he added two moves to the start.
Big New Routes in the Khumbu
12/18/09 – Italians Enrico Bonino and Nicolas Meli made three first ascents in the Khumbu region of Nepal in November and December 2009.
New Route on Poincenot in Patagonia
12/23/09 – The Italian-Swiss team of Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have climbed a difficult new route on the east face of Aguja Poincenot (3,002m/9,849′) in Argentinean Patagonia.
Bold Ascents in High Tatras
12/22/09 – The rugged High Tatras mountains are east of the Alps, on the border between Poland and Slovakia.
Ondra Flashes V14 Boulder Problem
12/22/09 – According to a Czech filmmaker working on a movie about Adam Ondra, the young climber has flashed Dave Graham’s problem Confessions (8B+/V14) at Cresciano, Switzerland.
|Joe Simpson Solos Himalayan New Route
11/21/09 – Joe Simpson, the English climber most famous for the “Touching the Void” accident in 1985 — and subsequent best-selling book and movie — has soloed a new route on the south face of Mera Peak in Nepal.
Sharma Sends Neanderthal (5.15)
12/20/09 – Chris Sharma, reportedly super-close to completing his long-term project First Round, First Minute at Margalef, Spain, got snowed out of that crag and traveled to Santa Linya, where he proceeded to redpoint another mega-project: Neanderthal (tentatively given 9b/5.15b).
Denali South Face Ski Attempt
12/18/09 – Dan Corn and Kevin Mahoney attempted to ski the 8,000-foot south face of Denali this past spring.
Search Suspended for Mt. Hood Climbers
12/16/09 – The search for two missing climbers on Mt. Hood in Oregon has been suspended because of high avalanche danger on the mountain.
Guy Lacelle Killed in Avalanche
12/11/09 – Canadian ice climber Guy Lacelle died Thursday in an avalanche in Hyalite Canyon, Montana, while climbing a snow gully between climbs.
Champions Crowned at the Stone Fort Finale
12/09/09 – For the second year in a row, Jimmy Webb, a Chattanooga, TN, transplant finished first overall in the Men’s Open at the Southeast’s one and only Triple Crown Bouldering Series held at the Stone Fort finale last weekend.
First Ascent of Beautiful Chinese Peak
12/07/09 – Martin Ploug and Kristoffer Szilas completed the first ascent of “Ren Zhong Feng” in Sichuan, China, south of the Minya Konka group.
Haston Quickly Climbs “5.14″ Roof Crack
12/02/09 – Stevie Haston flashed the granite roof crack Greenspit in northern Italy, first climbed by Didier Berthod and repeated a couple of times since. The route had been rated 5.14a.
Bold Chinese New Route on Siguniang
12/01/09 – The young Chinese alpinists Yan Dongdong and Zhou Peng have climbed a direct new route on the south face of Siguniang (6,250 meters/20,505′) in Sichuan Province, China.
Pamela Pack: 5.13 Offwidth in Zion
11/25/09 – The indefatigable Pamela Pack has redpointed a 65-foot, overhanging offwidth and squeeze chimney in Zion National Park that she rated solid 5.13.
Nakamura Unveils More Unclimbed Tibetan Peaks
11/23/09 – The extraordinary Japanese explorer Tamotsu Nakamura and companions have completed another photographic expedition to the Nyainqentanglha East and Kangri Garpo regions of eastern Tibet.
Late Season El Cap & Half Dome Link
11/20/09 – Colin Haley and Dave Turner turner pulled off a late season link-up of Yosemite’s El Capitan and Half Dome in preparation for their Patagonia trips coming up this winter.
New Big Wall Free Routes in South Africa
11/19/09 – Bavarians Max Dünßer, Reinhard Hones and Martin “Wusel” Schindele climbed a new nine pitch route at 7b (or 5.12b) at South Africa’s impressive Yellowwood Amphitheatre.
Enzo Oddo: 14-Year-Old French Crusher
11/18/09 – In early November a 14-year-old French climber, Enzo "Zozo" Oddo made a string of noteworthy ascents and added another 9a redpoint to his already impressive résumé.
Tomaz Humar Dies on Langtang Lirung
11/15/09 – Slovenian alpinist Tomaz Humar, who seemed to have nine lives, has used up the last of them on a Nepalese mountainside.
Brits Climb Coveted Chang Himal North Face
11/13/09 – Britons Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman have climbed the much-eyed north face of Chang Himal (a.k.a. Wedge Peak, 6,802 meters/22,316′) in far eastern Nepal.
Tomaz Humar Rescue Under Way
11/12/09 – Slovenian climber Tomaz Humar is reportedly injured and stuck on the north face of Langtang Lirung (7,234 meters) in Nepal.
French Climber Sends Smith Rock Project
11/11/09 – In early November French climber Pierre Bollinger made the first ascent of an old project at the world famous, standard setting welded tuff cliffs of Oregon’s Smith Rock State Park.
Desperate New Route on Peak Pobeda
11/06/09 – Russian climbers Vitaly Gorelik and Gleb Sokolov completed a difficult and dangerous new line up the north face of Peak Pobeda, the highest summit in the Tien Shan mountains, in late August.
Swiss Climb South Face of Jasemba
11/03/09 – The Swiss climbers Samuel and Simon Anthamatten and Michael Lerjen have completed the alpine-style first ascent of the south face of Jasemba (7,350m/24,114′) in Nepal. (Updated – 11/11/09)
Two 14c FAs, 14a Onsight for Frenchwoman
11/02/09 – 19-year-old Charlotte Durif from France has had an extraordinary few weeks of climbing: two 8c+ (5.14c) first ascents and a massive 8b+ (5.14a) onsight, all in France.
French Climb South Spur of Nemjung
10/30/09 – French alpinists Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff have climbed the south spur of 7,140-meter (23,425-foot) Nemjung in Nepal.
Ondra Completes 5.15a/b First Ascent
10/26/09 – Adam Ondra, the 16-year-old from the Czech Republic, has completed his hardest route yet, and it was a first ascent: Marina Superstar (9a+/b, or 5.15a/b) at the Domusnovas area in southern Sardinia, Italy.
Englekirk Fires Two Valley V 5.13s in a Week
10/26/09 – Between October 16 – 21, Englekirk redpointed Leaning Tower’s Westie Face (V 5.13a/b AO, 9 pitches) after five attempts spread over three months and Washington Column’s Quantum Mechanic (V 5.13a, 15 pitches) on his second attempt; his first attempt was on October 18. (Updated – 10/30/09)
Weird Science in the Fisher Towers
10/23/09 – Jeremy Aslaksen and Paul Gagner have climbed a very hard new aid route on the south face of King Fisher in the Fisher Towers of southeastern Utah.
|Hardest Route at the Red?
10/23/09 – After months of effort Adam Taylor has redpointed The Golden Ticket (5.14d?) and it’s believed, by many, to now be the hardest sport climb in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge.
Welcome to the Red: Siegrist On Fire
10/22/09 – Jonathan Siegrist made the most of his first three days in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge.
Trio of New Routes in Indian Himalaya
10/21/09 – Slovenians Rok Blagus, Luka Lindic, and Marko Prezelj have completed a hat trick of impressive new routes in the Bhagirathi group in northern India’s Garhwal Himalaya.
Extreme Headpoints in CO and NY
10/20/09 – Matt Wilder completed a spectacular and dangerous 5.14a route in the Flatirons above Boulder, Colorado, and Matt McCormick redpointed a run-out 5.13c climb in the Adirondacks.
Austrian’s Sendfest in Rocklands, South Africa
10/19/09 – Emanuel Moosburger of Innsbruck, Austria recently amassed an impressive ticklist during a seven-week trip to the sandstone bouldering mecca, Rocklands in South Africa.
German Woman Makes 8c Redpoint in Frankenjura
10/15/09 – Sarah Seeger has redpointed Steinbock (8c or 5.14b) and is the first woman to climb a route of this grade in the Frankenjura — Germany’s most famous, steep and tiny-pocketed limestone mecca.
Markus Bock Climbs Frankenjura 9a+
10/13/09 – German climber Markus Bock has redpointed a 20 year old project in the Frankenjura that he has graded 9a+ or 5.15a.
Jenny Lavarda: 5.14+ in Dolomites
10/12/09 – The Italian climber Jenny Lavarda has repeated Solo per Vecchi Guerrieri, a 150-meter route in the Dolomites with pitches of 5.12d, 5.12c, 5.13d, and 5.14c/d.
Free Rider Virtually Onsighted
10/08/09 – The Swiss climber Cédric Lachat onsighted the Free Rider variation to the Salathé Wall (5.12d) on El Capitan in September.
Caldwell, Collins Win 24 Hours of Horseshoe
10/07/09 – Tommy Caldwell and Jeremy Collins teamed up to dominate the fourth annual 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell in Arkansas.
Huge Climbs in Chinese Tien Shan
10/05/09 – A small American-Scottish expedition backed by a Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award from the American Alpine Club has completed significant climbs on the Chinese side of the Tien Shan.
Gritstone Action at UK’s Wimberry Rocks
10/02/09 – At the end of September another great gritstone project bit the dust courtesy of Miles Gibson who is one of the UK’s strongest underground climbers. Weighing in at E9 7a this route is now one of the hardest routes on grit.
Huber Brothers Free-Climb Trango Tower
10/01/09 – Alexander and Thomas Huber have redpointed Eternal Flame (5.13a), a classic 35-pitch route to the summit of 20,508-foot Trango (“Nameless”) Tower in Pakistan.
New Climb in Tetons’ Death Canyon
9/30/09 – In early September Mark Givens and Joel Kauffman climbed a new moderate free route in Death Canyon within Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park.
Charlie Houston Dies at 96
9/29/09 – Charles Houston, a pioneering American climber and altitude researcher, died at his home in Vermont on September 27. He was 96. Houston was part of the Anglo-American team that made the first ascent of 25,643-foot Nanda Devi in 1936, and he attempted K2 in 1938 and 1953.
Application Deadline For Two AAC Grants Pushed Forward
9/28/09 – The application deadline for two of the AAC’s major grant programs has been moved two months earlier, to ensure that grant winners can be notified before their expeditions are scheduled to depart in the spring.
McColl Bags 2nd Ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d)
9/24/09 – Canadian Sean McColl has redpointed the second ascent of one of Canada’s hardest rock climbs: Dreamcatcher (5.14d), established in 2005 by Chris Sharma.
Two First Free Ascents in Cirque of Unclimbables
9/22/09 – Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria established a new 400-meter route on Middle Huey Spire in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimbables, and then Papert returned to free-climb the line at 5.13a.
New Mixed Route on the Grand Teton
9/18/09 – Landon Wiedenmann and Paul Rachele have climbed a new mixed rock and ice route on the North Face of the Enclosure on the Grand Teton in Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park.
The Eiger Free and Solo
9/17/09 – Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli completed the first free ascent of the Japanese Direct on the north face of the Eiger in late August. Also in August, the Spanish climber Jordi Tosas free-soloed Le Chant du Cygne (900m, 7a/5.11d, Anker-Piola, 1992) on the far right side of the north face.
New Free Line Up the Diamond
9/17/09 – Phil Gruber and Brett Nelson have completed a new free line up the Diamond on Longs Peak, linking sections of two old aid climbs with some new ground.
Speedy Free-Solo Spree in the Dolomites
9/15/09 – Manfred Stuffer of Ortisei, Italy free-soloed five routes on the North Face of the Torre Orientale di Mesules, Sella, Dolomites in an astonishing 3.5 hours.
Big Canadian Climbs on Baffin Island
9/14/09 – Canadians Chris Brazeau and Jon Walsh enjoyed a productive summer trip to Auyuittuq National Park on Baffin Island, completing seven climbs or attempts in ultra-light style, including a couple of possible new routes or first free ascents.
Kiwi Woman Climbs 8c at Ceuse
9/11/09 – On September 5th, 2009, after two weeks of work, Mayan Smith-Gobat of New Zealand redpointed her hardest route yet, L’arcademicien (5.14b or 8c), at the world class sport crag of Céüse, France.
Swedes Establish Free Route in Greenland
9/10/09 – On June 28, the Swedish climbers Erik Massih and Oskar Alexandersson grabbed the FFA of Life is Beautiful (FA: Suzuki-Yamaoka; VI- 5.9 A2+; 5.13a, 7c+), on Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland.
|Three New Routes, Two Nearly Free Walls in Baffin
9/08/09 – The Belgian team of Olivier and Nicolas Favresse, Stephane Hanssens, and Sean Villanueva completed a remarkable expedition to Auyuittuq National Park on Baffin Island, during which they established three new routes, nearly free-climbed a big-wall route on Mt. Asgard along with Silvia Vidal, and repeated another big-wall climb.
Pou Brothers Complete 5.14c/d Big Wall
9/08/09 – Basque brothers Eneko and Iker Pou have completed a one-day redpoint of their 13-pitch route Orbayu (8c+/9a) on the limestone Naranjo de Bulnes formation in northern Spain.
New 5.14 Crack in Vedauwoo, Wyoming
9/04/09 – Justin Edl has climbed a 50 foot right-slanting crack climb that he’s named Home on the Range (5.14-) at Vedauwoo’s Coyote Rocks near Laramie, Wyoming.
New Austro-Canadian Route on Nanga Parbat
9/04/09 – After a three-month expedition to Pakistan Canadian Louis Rousseau and Austrian Gerfried Göschl climbed a new route on Nanga Parbat and made two attempts to climb K2.
A6+ in the Fisher Towers?
9/01/09 – A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead.
Bautista, Digiulian Shine in Youth Worlds
9/01/09 – Julian Bautista took a bronze medal in his age group, and Sasha Digiulian finished just off the podium in fourth place at the World Youth Championships in Valence, France. (Updated – 9/08/09)
Litz Goes on 5.14 Spree at Ten Sleep
8/31/09 – This summer, James Litz established at least seven 5.14 routes, including General Litzenheimer (5.14c/d) and Master of the Universe (5.14d).
Rare Ascent of Alberta North Face
8/27/09 – Jay Mills and Dana Ruddy climbed the original route on the north face of Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies in mid-August, making a single-push and nearly free ascent of the rarely climbed testpiece.
Fischhuber Sends Rocklands’ Air Star
8/26/09 – Jamie Emerson’s B3 Bouldering blog reports that Kilian Fischhuber has sent a problem at Rocklands, South Africa, previously dubbed the Air Star Project, that likely is V14 or harder.
McColl Takes Third in World Cup
8/24/09 – Canadian Sean McColl finished third at a World Cup lead competition in Imst, Austria, his second top-five finish this month.
Ptarmigan Traverse in 14.5 Hours
8/19/09 – Colin Abercrombie and Leor Pantilat completed the famous Ptarmigan Traverse in the North Cascades of Washington in 14 hours 36 minutes in late July.
Oscar Perez Rescue on Latok II Called Off
8/17/09 – On August 6th, Spanish climber Oscar Perez suffered a broken leg and wrist after a fall at 6,200 meters while attempting to climb a new route, in alpine style, on Latok II (7,125 meters) in Pakistan’s rugged and remote Karakoram Range.
Two 5.12+ First Free Ascents in the Bugaboos
8/14/09 – The Canadian-American trio of Jason Kruk, Will Stanhope, and Matt Segal have completed the first free ascent of the west face of Howser Spire’s Central Tower in the Bugaboos at 5.12+.
Toni Lamprecht “Beats” Another 8c+/5.14c
8/14/09 – Toni Lamprecht has slain another testpiece at his local stomping ground Kochel in Southern Germany that he’s named Beat it (8c+/5.14c).
Oscar Perez Rescue Updates from Latok II
8/14/09 – At 10:15 am (August 14th, 2009) there has been contact from Álvaro Sebastián in Skardu. The news is very encouraging. Today, as expected, all the equipment and people have moved into base camp.
Desperate Rescue in the Karakoram Continues
8/13/09 – The news from Latok II desperate. Efforts in Pakistan to save Spanish climber Oscar Perez, who is at 6,200 meters with a broken leg and arm, are proving to be slow and complicated, although officially it is said that there is total support of the local authorities.
Craig Luebben Killed in North Cascades
8/11/09 – Craig Luebben, the well-known Colorado climber, guide, teacher, and author, was killed early Sunday morning when glacial ice collapsed on Mt. Torment in North Cascades National Park. (Updated – 8/13/09)
Desperate Rescue in the Karakoram
8/12/09 – Pakistani Army Air Corps helicopters and mountain climbers of diverse nationalities are immersed at the moment in a desperate rescue in the mountain range of the Karakoram.
Riccardo Cassin 1909–2009
8/11/09 – The Italian climbing pioneer Riccardo Cassin has passed away on August 6th at his home near Lecco in Northern Italy. The rarely idle Cassin, who continued climbing well into his eighties, made first ascents all over the world in ranges of such as the Alps, Alaska, South America and the Himalaya.
Korean Woman Eyes 14th 8,000-Meter Peak
8/05/09 – Oh Eun-sun from Korea summited Gasherbrum I, her 13th 8,000-meter peak, on August 3.
New-Route Blitz in Mendenhall Towers
8/03/09 – Blake Herrington and Jason Nelson climbed three probable new routes and repeated a fourth line in a quick visit to the Mendenhall Towers of Southeast Alaska that was blessed with exceptionally fine weather.
Beautiful Cascades Testpiece Free-Climbed
7/31/09 – Jens Holsten and Sol Wertkin have free-climbed Dragons of Eden (5.12a R) on Dragontail Peak in the central Cascades of Washington State.
John Bachar Memorial at Mammoth Lakes
7/31/09 – On Monday, July 27, 2009, climbers from all over the country gathered to mourn the loss of climbing legend John Bachar in Mammoth Lakes, California.
New Route on Matterhorn North Face
7/28/09 – 61-year-old Swiss-Canadian climber Jean Troillet has completed a new route on the north face of the Matterhorn with French climbers Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen. (Updated – 8/17/09)
Viesturs Partner Gustafsson Climbs 14th 8,000er
7/28/09 – Veikka Gustafsson has climbed Gasherbrum I in Pakistan, his 14th 8,000-meter peak without supplementary oxygen, making him the ninth person in history to achieve this feat.
|Woods, Johnson Win Major Bouldering Comp
7/24/09 – Daniel Woods and Alex Johnson won the Mammut Bouldering Championship in Salt Lake City.
U.S. Youth National Championships
7/20/09 – More than 400 climbers from around the country gathered in mid-July at Momentum Climbing in Sandy, Utah, for the 2009 Youth National Championships.
Kiwi Woman Bags Unclimbed Pakistani Peak
7/20/09 – New Zealander Pat Deavoll bagged the first ascent of 6,180-meter Karim Sar in Pakistan’s Batura Muztagh.
Americans Free Climb New Route in Norway
7/15/09 – Mike Brumbaugh, Ari Menitove, Andrew Burr, Brian Heppner and Rob Pizem have free climbed a 1,000-foot new route called Man Hands (IV 5.11) literally right off the beach in northwestern Norway.
Dave Turner Solos Huge Baffin Route
7/09/09 – Californian Dave Turner capped a 65-day expedition to Sam Ford Fjord on Canada’s Baffin Island with a solo, 39-hour, single-push ascent of a 4,750-foot new route on Broad Peak.
New Route on Burkett Needle
7/08/09 – Americans Dave Burdick and John Frieh snatched the first ascent of the beautiful west ridge of Burkett Needle in southeast Alaska during a spell of high pressure in early July.
Early-Season Heat in High-Country Bouldering
7/07/09 – Despite a stormy month of June, locals and visiting climbers alike made a super-strong start to the alpine bouldering season in Colorado.
John Bachar 1957-2009
7/06/09 – On July 5, the climbing world lost one of its greatest icons: John Bachar. While climbing alone at the Dike Wall near Mammoth Lakes, California, Bachar fell to the ground, though the circumstances of the fall remain unclear.
McColl Stars in World Championships
7/06/09 – Canadian Sean McColl made the finals in both lead climbing and bouldering at the World Championships in Qinghai, China — the only climber to achieve this remarkable feat.
Maja Vidmar Sends 5.14c in Italy
7/06/09 – Slovenian climber Maja Vidmar has redpointed her hardest route yet, Attilla Luongo (8c+ or 5.14c) at Barratro, in Trieste, Italy.
Hard New Route in Alaska’s Hayes Range
7/03/09 – Samuel Johnson and Matt Klick made the first ascent of the northern ridge on 11,140-foot Mt. Balchen in Alaska’s Hayes Range in a lightweight two-day climb.
Two New Routes in Alaska Range
7/02/09 – British climbers James Clapham and Gavin Pike climbed new routes on Peak 11,300′ and Mt. Church in the Ruth Gorge area of the Alaska Range.
12 Year Old Girl Climbs 5.13c/d
7/02/09 – Zhenja Kazbekova, a 12-year-old Ukrainian girl, has climbed New Kenigsberg( 8a+/8b or 5.13c/d) at the Krasny Kamen or “Red Stone” sector, in Crimea, southern Ukraine.
Honnold, Leary Climb Salathé Wall in 4:55
7/01/09 – Alex Honnold and Sean Leary have climbed the Salathé Wall on Yosemite’s El Capitan in a record 4 hours and 55 minutes. After that, in the scorching heat, the pair ran up the Nose in 7 hours.
Jenny Lavarda Sends 8c/8c+: Q&A
6/26/09 – On Thursday, June 18, 2009, the 25 year old Italian, Jenny Lavarda, redpointed Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+ or 5.14b/c) at Masson’s Pueblo sector, in Italy, for the first female ascent of the route.
Adam Ondra Repeats Alex Huber 9a
6/24/09 – 16 year old Czech phenomenon Adam Ondra has repeated Alexander Huber’s Om at Endstal, Germany and believes the route to be 9a or 5.14d.
Americans Free Climb Big Wall in Namibia, Africa
6/19/09 – Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette, and Kate Rutherford have climbed two new big wall routes: Southern Crossing (V 5.11+) and Painted Giraffe (V 5.9+), on the Orabeskopf Wall in Southeastern Africa.
Search Has Ended for Missing American Climber
6/08/09 – It is with deep regret that the American team and Chinese authorities have ended the search for Micah Dash, the third missing climber, on June 12, 2009.
Denali Mystery Solved With Discovery of Bodies
9/12/09 – Rangers at Denali National Park have located the bodies of Yuto Inoue and Tatsuro Yamada near the 20,320-foot summit of Denali.
Brits Climb Big New Route in St. Elias Range
6/09/09 – Paul Schweizer and Simon Yates made the first ascent of the southwest spur of 15,600-foot Good Neighbor Peak in the St. Elias Range, on the Alaska-Yukon border.
Another American Climber’s Body Found in China
6/08/09 – A second body has been found on Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet), China, and is believed to be Wade Johnson, 24, of Boulder, CO.
Americans Shine at Vail World Cup
6/08/09 – American boulderers dominated the second annual Vail World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games on June 5-6.
American Climber’s Body Identified in China
6/08/09 – The body found in avalanche debris at 4000 meters on Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet), China, has been positively identified as Jonathan “Jonny” Copp, age 35 of Boulder, CO.
Climber’s Body Found in China
6/26/09 – A body has been found in avalanche debris at 4000 meters on Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet) on the Minya Konka massif, Western Sichuan Province, China.
Colorado Climbers Late Home from China
6/05/09 – Three Boulder, Colorado climbers—Jonathan Copp (age 35), Micah Dash (age 30), and Wade Johnson (age 24)—are overdue, having missed their flight on June 3 from Chengdu, China.
|Honnold Frees the Salathé Wall in 8.5 Hours: Q&A
6/04/09 – On May 27th, 2009, Alex Honnold redpointed Yosemite’s Salathé Wall (VI 5.13c) in the blazing fast time of 8 and a half hours.
Alaska Vets Climb Superb New Routes
6/03/09 – Jay Smith and Jack Tackle, longtime veterans of Alaskan climbing, enjoyed a remarkable two and a half weeks in the Alaska Range in May, climbing four new routes.
Sharma Climbs Hard New 9a+ in Spain
6/01/09 – Chris Sharma has redpointed a 50-meter new route at Oliana, Spain, that he called Pachamama (9a+/5.15a).
Big New Routes Near Glacier Bay, Alaska
5/29/09 – In April and May, Paul Knott and Guy McKinnon from New Zealand visited the Johns Hopkins Glacier in southeast Alaska, and they came away with two major new routes, including the first ascent of an 8,599-foot summit.
Toni Lamprecht Climbs New 5.15 at Kochel
5/22/09 – German strongman Toni Lamprecht has climbed a new limestone sport climb, Jaws 11, at Kochel in Southern Germany that he’s graded “up in the French 9th grade”; i.e., mid-5.15.
First Ascent of the Ice Pyramid in Alaska
5/22/09 – Clint Helander and Seth Holden completed the first ascent of the Ice Pyramid (9,250′) in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
Oh-So-Close to El Cap Onsight
5/21/09 – Swiss climber Ueli Steck free-climbed Golden Gate (5.13b, 41 pitches) and fell on only a single pitch, onsighting the rest of the climb. (Updated – 5/22/09)
Brits Climb Two New Routes in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge
5/21/09 – Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker enjoyed a super-productive two-week trip to the Ruth Gorge in the Alaska Range, where stable weather and good ice conditions allowed them to climb two very hard new routes.
Russian Duo Climbs Stunning High-Altitude Pillar
5/18/09 – Mikhail Mikhailov and Alexander Ruchkin completed the first ascent of a 6,134-meter peak in Sichuan, China, by a superb, 1,000-meter rock pillar.
Urubko: New Route on Cho Oyu for 14th 8,000′er
5/15/09 – Kazakh climber Denis Urubko has summited 8,201-meter Cho Oyu by an alpine-style ascent of the difficult southeast face, a stylish finish to his quest to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks.
Hard New Trad & Sport in North Carolina
5/06/09 – Dave Sharratt and Pat Goodman have recently completed some of North Carolina’s hardest new routes in a variety of styles: sport, trad, and headpoint.
Americans Bag Huge Unclimbed Peak in Nepal
5/04/09 – Americans David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear have completed the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) in Nepal, near Nangpa La on the border with Tibet.
Kinder Links 5.14d FA in Utah
5/01/09 – Joe Kinder has completed a link-up of two 5.14 routes at the Wailing Wall in southwestern Utah to create a 5.14d line called The Re-Up, the hardest route he has redpointed and one of the most difficult in the country.
Three Teams Receive Piolets d’Or
5/01/09 – At an award ceremony in Chamonix, France, three climbs from 2008 were honoured with Piolets d’Or for their originality, commitment, and technical difficulty.
Solo New Route on Annapurna South
4/27/09 – The Slovakian Dodo Kopold has soloed the southeast side of 7,219-meter Annapurna South (Annapurna Dakshin) in a 40-hour continuous push.
AAC Announces Major 2009 Expedition Grants
4/21/09 – The American Alpine Club has announced $19,000 in grants to support American expeditions in 2009, from Baffin Island to Pakistan.
Washington’s Lower Index Town Wall Threatened
4/16/09 – The Index Town Walls of Washington feature some of the best concentrations of steep, clean granite cracks and face climbs in Western North America.
Possible M12 Climbed in Maine
4/16/09 – In late March, Josh Hurst redpointed a mixed route in western Maine that could be as hard as M12. (UPDATED – 5/11/09)
Sharma Sending Hard in China
4/15/09 – Chris Sharma is making quick work of many of China’s hardest sport climbs during the final stop of an Asian tour that included Japan and Korea.
Big, New & Hard Ice Climbs in Wyoming
4/15/09 – Good snow and consistent temperatures made for incredible ice climbing conditions near Cody, Wyoming this year.
Argentinian Climbs Spanish 9a (5.14d)
4/14/09 – Danilo Pereyra of Argentina has become the first Latin American climber to send the grade of 9a or 5.14d.
Dozens of New Routes in Norway
4/10/09 – On March 8-15, 2009, the Norwegian Alpine Club invited nearly forty climbers from worldwide to come to Lofoten, Norway, for a come-as-you-are climbing meet.
Hard Sends and Projects at Utah’s Wailing Wall
4/10/09 – A crew of strong climbers based out of St. George, Utah, has been sending hard at the Wailing Wall.
2nd Ascent of Graham V15: Interview and Video
4/08/09 – Bernd Zangerl has completed the second ascent of Dave Graham’s From Dirt Grows the Flowers (8C/V15) at Chronico, Switzerland, on March 17.
Walter Bonatti To Receive Career Piolet d’Or
4/07/09 – Walter Bonatti, perhaps the premier alpinist of the 1950s and early 1960s, will be honored with the first Piolet d’Or for lifetime achievement.
|Fisher Towers’ Cottontail Goes Free at 5.12+ R
4/06/09 – Jason Haas and Rob Pizem have free-climbed every pitch of West Side Story on 800-foot Cottontail tower in Utah’s Fisher Towers. (Updated – 5/14/09)
Big New Routes in Isolated Argentinean Valley
4/03/09 – Two North American teams have completed routes on the striking granite towers of the Piritas Valley of Argentina, a little-explored and remote drainage above the upper Rio Turbio, near the Argentina-Chile border.
Access Fund’s 2009 Grant Recipients
4/03/09 – In the first round of the Climbing Grants Preservation program for 2009, the Access Fund awarded over $20,000 to support local climbing activism and conservation of the climbing environment.
Hueco’s Grenade Boulder Closes Temporarily
3/30/09 – Rock climbers recently noticed canyon wrens nesting at a popular climbing site at Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site near El Paso, Texas.
Speedy Ascent of Mount Kenya
3/27/09 – German climber Felix Berg has set two possible speed records on Africa’s Mount Kenya.
Paul Robinson: 2nd Ascent of Psychedelic (5.14c/d)
3/25/09 – Best known for his bouldering — he was national champion in 2008 — Paul Robinson has completed the second ascent of Psychedelic (5.14c/d), eight years after Dave Graham first climbed the route.
Hard New Trad and Sport in USA
3/20/09 – Matt Segal climbed a new 5.13+ R/X trad line in the Kloof Alcove in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. And, near St. George, Utah, Joe Kinder redpointed an ultra-steep Todd Perkins project at the Hurricave.
Lamprecht Sends Possible V16 in Germany
3/16/09 – 37-year-old Toni Lamprecht of Munich, Germany, has climbed a new limestone boulder problem at the cliff Altantiswand in Kochel, Germany, that he has graded 8C+, or roughly V16.
Sharma’s Latest Projects: New Photos
3/12/09 – Chris Sharma continues to work several 5.15 projects in Catalunya, Spain, and photographer Pete O’Donovan has posted a mini-album of photos from these attempts at 8a.nu.
Six Climbs Nominated for Piolets d’Or
3/10/09 – Six climbs from 2008, including one by an American, have been nominated for the 17th Piolets d’Or — the “golden ice axes” — which will be presented during a four-day festival at the foot of Mont Blanc in April.
Awesome Big-Wall Ice in Norway
3/05/09 – Separate teams of Norwegian, German, and Swiss climbers seized the day in unusually cold temperatures during February and established gigantic new ice routes on Norwegian cliffs the size of Yosemite Valley’s walls. (Updated – 3/11/09)
Major New Route at Willoughby in Vermont
3/02/09 – Ian Austin and Josh Hurst have completed Luna Kahuna (180m, M8 5.11 NEI5+), a five-pitch mixed route above Lake Willoughby in Vermont.
Hukkataival Cranks the Tanks
2/27/09 – Nalle Hukkataival, 22, of Helsinki, Finland, has been making quick work of many boulder problems at Hueco Tanks, Texas, including the first flash of Fred Nicole’s classic Full Monty (V12).
5.14b for Utah Mom JC Hunter
2/27/09 – Jacinda “JC” Hunter has completed the first female ascent of Breaking the Law (5.14b) at the Black and Tan area southwest of St. George, Utah.
Canadians Climb Gigantic Half-Frozen Waterfall
2/24/09 – Will Gadd and EJ Plimley have climbed 1,000-foot Hunlen Falls in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, east of Bella Coola, British Columbia, the first ascent of Canada’s third-highest waterfall.
Three-Year Effort Yields Huge M12 in Canada
2/23/09 – After a three-season effort, a team of Canadians has completed a major new mixed route in Alberta with a long crux pitch that could be as hard as M12.
Sharma: New 5.15a in Spain
2/23/09 – Chris Sharma has completed the first ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) roof project at Margalef in Spain.
Rising Stars: 5.14 at Age 13
2/23/09 – A 13-year-old European has climbed a possible 9a (5.14d) route in Spain. No, it wasn’t Adam Ondra.
Free This! 12-Pitch Mixed Wall in France
2/18/09 – French climbers Philippe Batoux and Lionel Daudet have completed a new 12-pitch mixed rock and ice route on an overhanging 1,000-foot wall at Freyssinière.
Woods, Johnson Are U.S. Bouldering Champs
2/16/09 – Daniel Woods and Alex Johnson won the adult Bouldering National Championship at the Spot gym in Boulder, competing in a field that included some international superstars of bouldering. (Updated – 2/17/09)
Daniel Woods’ Arkansas Rampage
2/12/09 – Coloradan Daniel Woods has posted a first-person account of his three-and-a-half-week New Year’s trip to Arkansas at the Sportiva website.
Huge Route Free-Climbed on Central Tower of Paine
2/10/09 – The Belgian-American team of Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva, and Ben Ditto have completed a 13-day, all-free ascent of the South African Route on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine in Chilean Patagonia.
Moro, Urubko Summit Makalu in Winter
2/09/09 – Simone Moro (Italy) and Denis Urubko (Kazakhstan) have reached the top of Makalu, completing the first winter ascent of the world’s fifth-highest peak.
Central Italy’s Hardest Sport Route?
2/06/09 – On January 11, Gianluca Daniele, of Rome, has linked the most difficult moves of three existing routes (from 5.13c to 5.14a) in the Areonauta Cave, Sperlonga, Italy, to create Grandi Gesti.
Desperate Winter Climb in Russia
2/05/09 – Hard-core winter climbing thrives in Russia, and a quartet of climbers has proved it again with the first winter ascent of the north ridge of Mizhirgi East in the Caucasus Mountains.
|Legendary Mixed Routes Repeated in France
2/04/09 – During a long trip to France, British climber Tim Emmett has completed some rarely repeated ice and mixed routes, including the first free ascent of a seven-pitch testpiece from the mid-1990s.
Hubers, Siegrist Pioneer Huge Antarctic Walls
1/28/09 – During a six-week trip to Queen Maud Land in Antarctica, Bavarian brothers Alex and Thomas Huber, along with Stephan Siegrist from Switzerland, climbed new routes on two enormous, otherworldy rock towers thrusting from the ice cap.
National Champs: Carlo Traversi, Emily Harrington
1/26/09 – In a two-day comp near Salt Lake City, Coloradans Carlo Traversi and Emily Harrington won the 2009 SCS Adult National Championships, sponsored by the North Face and Sterling Ropes.
The First Winter Ascent of a Cascades Summer Classic
1/23/09 – Ade Miller and John Plotz took advantage of a rare spell of good weather in Washington’s North-Central Cascades to complete the first winter ascent of the Backbone Ridge with Fin Directon Dragontail Peak.
Prominent Zion Aid Line Free-Climbed
1/23/09 – Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh have free-climbed Gentleman’s Agreement on Zion National Park’s Three Marys formation at 5.13b.
Sending Spree at the Buttermilks
1/21/09 – Matt Wilder climbed a number of hard problems during a three-week trip to Bishop, California over his winter holiday in December 2008 through early January 2009.
Josh Wharton: M10, V10 and 5.13 in a Week
1/20/09 – Josh Wharton has completed a self-described “arbitrary” goal of redpointing an M10 mixed route, V10 boulder problem, and 5.13 rock route in a single week of climbing.
Steck Solos Matterhorn North Face in 1:56
1/19/09 – The Swiss climber Ueli Steck has climbed the north face of the Matterhorn by the Schmid Route in 1 hour 56 minutes. (Updated – 1/23/09)
Huge New Ice Route in Nepal
1/19/09 – Ines Papert and Cory Richards have climbed a new route on the historic, 1,200-meter north face of Kwangde in Nepal.
The Piolet d’Or is Back
1/14/09 – The Piolet d’Or will return this spring after a one-year hiatus and a search for a new format that aims to make such prizes acceptable to those who believe alpinism has no winners and losers.
2009 Mugs Stump Award Winners Announced
1/13/09 – The applications received for 2009 included many strong teams with objectives in far-flung corners of the mountaineering world, from Patagonia, to Pakistan, to the Canadian Rockies, to Alaska.
Another Gritstone Challenge Falls
1/12/09 – Ryan Pasquill has succeeded in climbing a desperate new route at the Ilkley Crag in Yorkshire, England.
Wharton, Glanc Take Ouray Prize
1/12/09 – Josh Wharton and Dawn Glanc won the mixed-climbing competition at the 14th annual Ouray Ice Festival in southwestern Colorado.
Jorgeson Sends Insane 45-foot Highball
1/09/09 – Fueled by the drink of the gods, Kevin Jorgeson, has made the first ascent of a bold 45-foot tall face on the Grandpa Peabody boulder at the Buttermilk Boulders, near Bishop, California.
Haley Solos Fitz Roy’s Supercanaleta
1/09/08 – Colin Haley has done a rare solo ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, via the Supercanaleta (a.k.a. Super Couloir), the amazing ice and mixed line that splits the mountain’s west face.
Rare Avalanche Kills Wyoming Ice Climber
1/07/09 – Ice climber Keith Spencer died January 2 when a rare and powerful avalanche swept the Main Vein ice climb in the South Fork Valley, near Cody, Wyoming. (Updated – 1/14/09)
MacLeod Repeats “E12″ Slab in England
1/07/09 – Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has made the second ascent of The Walk of Life, a 50-meter steep slab on England’s North Devon coast that was given the unprecedented grade of E12 7a when James Pearson made the first ascent last year.
Steck Solos Grandes Jorasses in 2:21
1/07/09 – Ueli Steck has soloed the Colton-MacIntyre Route on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours 21 minutes, the fastest time for any route on the premier north wall of the Mont Blanc massif. (New Photos Added – 1/12/09)
New Routes in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica
1/05/09 – At the end of 2008, a French expedition climbed a new route on the granite tower Holstind in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, and made the first ascent of several other peaks.
Winter Suffer-fests on Four 8,000′ers
1/02/09 – Attempted winter ascents of three 8,000-meter peaks are under way in Pakistan and Nepal.
Diamond Braves Super-Highball V11 in Bishop
12/31/08 – After sussing the moves with a top rope, Shawn Diamond bouldered the first ascent of a “super-highball” problem called Luminance (tentatively graded V11) near the Buttermilks in California.
Bold Solos in Nepal
12/30/08 – In November, Spanish climber Jordi Tozas completed two solo ascents of 6,000-meter peaks in the Khumbu region of Nepal, and made bold attempts on the south faces of Nuptse and Lhotse.
Sharma: Possible 5.15b in Spain
12/17/08 – Chris Sharma has completed a project at Siurana, Spain, that he believes could be as hard as 9b (5.15b).
Cerro Torre: Todo Natural
12/16/08 – Six teams climbed the upper west face of Cerro Torre in the first nine days of December, doubling the number of previous ascents.
Americans Bag Unclimbed Patagonian Peak
12/15/08 – Dave Turner and Mark Matthews completed the probable first ascent of a small granite tower in the Paine region of Chilean Patagonia.
|Brit Grit Boys Fight Back
12/15/08 – Pete Robins and Ben Bransby have made ground-up ascents of James Pearson’s gritstone test-piece, The Promise (E10 7a), near Sheffield, England.
Josune Bereziartu Ticks Hard Canadian Ice
12/12/08 – Josune Bereziartu, the strongest female rock climber in the world, has been turning more attention to alpine and winter climbing.
Big New Ice Line in North Cascades
12/11/08 – Dan Cappellini and Rolf Larson climbed a long ice line up the north face of Buck Mountain in the North Cascades in early December.
Kings & Queens of the Triple Crown
12/10/08 – The third and pinnacle event of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series concluded on December 5-6, 2008, on the world class sandstone boulders of The Stone Fort (aka Little Rock City) near Chattanooga, Tennessee.
Hot Action on Spanish Crags
12/10/08 – The world’s strongest climbers have lit up the crags of northeastern Spain this week, with Chris Sharma and Ramón Julián Puigblanque both in superb form.
Hensley, McColl Are North American Champs
12/08/08 – American Tiffany Hensley and Canadian Sean McColl were crowned North American champions on Sunday, concluding a three-day competition in Montreal.
Major New Free Climb in North Carolina
12/05/08 – A two-year team effort has resulted in one of the hardest and best multipitch free routes in the Southeast: The Glass I (5.13a or b, four or five pitches) on the north side of Looking Glass Rock in western North Carolina. (New Photos Added – 12/09/08)
Canada’s Wild Thing Gets Free Ascent
12/01/08 – Jon Simms and Jon Walsh have completed a rare ascent of The Wild Thing on the east face of Mt. Chephren in the Canadian Rockies, making the probable first free ascent of the route.
Kinder: 5.14c New Route in Kentucky
11/26/08 – Joe Kinder has completed a 5.14c first ascent at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. Kinder bolted Southern Smoke, a direct start to Ultra-Perm (5.13d) at the Bob Marley Crag, and redpointed the line after six days of work.
Americans Rampage on British Grit
11/25/08 – Americans Alex Honnold and Kevin Jorgeson have astonished British climbers with rapid repeats of some of the testiest routes on “God’s own rock,” the English gritstone.
Much-Eyed Face on Kamet Finally Climbed
11/24/08 – Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi have completed the first ascent of the 6,000-foot southeast face of Kamet (7,756m/25,446′) in northern India.
Desert’s Steepest Tower Goes Free
11/21/08 – Rob Pizem and Pete Vintoniv have free-climbed the wildly overhanging northeast arête of the Shark’s Fin in Utah’s Monument Basin at 5.12 R.
Groundbreaking 5.15 Gets Second Ascent
11/21/08 – Adam Ondra has made the second ascent of Open Air at Austria’s Schleier Wasserfall, a route first done when Ondra was only three years old.
French Pair Climbs Nuptse’s South Face
11/21/08 – Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz climbed a new, direct route up the south face of 7,861-meter (25,791-foot) Nuptse in Nepal, before halting at the summit ridge in the face of extreme cold.
Japanese Complete Coveted North Face of Kalanka
11/21/08 – Japanese climbers Kazuaki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura, and Yusuke Sato have climbed the north face of Kalanka (6,931 meters/22,740 feet) in India’s Garhwal Himalaya.
The First Ascent of Kang Nachugo
11/14/08 – Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of the previously unclimbed peak Kang Nachugo (6,735 meters) in the Rolwaling Himal, Nepal.
New Route in Chilean Patagonia
11/10/08 – Carlos Buhler and Joan Solé Rovirosa have climbed a new alpine route on the East Face of Cerro Castillo in the Aysen region of Cerro Castillo National Reserve, Chilean Patagonia.
Two Possible First Ascents in the Miyar Valley
11/07/08 – Camilo Lopez and Anna Pfaff have made two possible first ascents in India’s Miyar Valley.
Webb and McGinnis: 2008 HP40 Champs
11/04/08 – Jimmy Webb has secured a solid victory at this year’s Horse Pens 40 competition on leg two of the 2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series presented by Marmot.
Adam Ondra Onsights Hotel Supramonte
10/31/08 – The 15-year-old Czech super-climber Adam Ondra has made the first onsight of Hotel Supramonte, a 10 pitch limestone 5.14a, on Italy’s island of Sardinia.
Pringle Sends Colorado Trad Testpieces
10/27/08 – Ethan Benjamin Pringle, usually known for his hard sport and boulder ascents, has redpointed Boulder Canyon’s China Doll (5.14a) and Eldorado Canyon’s Iron Monkey (5.14a) this fall while in Colorado.
Three Dolomite’s Summits and Two BASE Jumps
10/24/08 – Thomas Huber has climbed three summits in Italy’s Dolomites, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and B.A.S.E. jumped off two of them in a single day.
Nose Speed Record: Hans Florine Interviewed
10/22/08 – PodClimber.com has produced an exclusive interview with legendary speed climber Hans Florine about his and Yuji Hirayama’s October 12, 2008 record-fast ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite, California.
Alex Puccio On Fire in Colorado
10/22/08 – Alex Puccio has climbed two V12 boulder problems and a V11 in Colorado in the last week.
New Route on Makalu II
10/21/08 – Vince Anderson has sent a brief report and photo to the Cleanest Line describing a new route on Kangchungtse (a.k.a. Makalu II, 24,850 feet).
|Belgians Create Bold El Cap Free Route
10/20/08 – Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva have completed a new free route on the far right side of El Capitan. See a photo gallery from this ascent.
72 pitch First Ascent in the Changping Valley, China
10/16/08 – Chad Kellogg and Dylan Johnson, funded in part by a Lyman Spitzer Award from the American Alpine Club, completed the first ascent of the Southwest Ridge of Siguniang in southwestern China, (VI 5.11 A2 M5 AI3+), 72 pitches.
Katie Brown: Half Dome All-Free Onsight
10/10/08 – Katie Brown has onsighted the Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.12) of Half Dome, completing the 23-pitch route in about nine hours.
Americans Bag Unclimbed Spire in India
10/09/08 – After storms foiled a traditional porter-assisted approach to a striking peak in India, an American quartet regrouped and went ultra-light to bag the likely first ascent of the 17,697-foot summit.
Eight North Faces Linked in Alps
10/08/08 – The French alpinists Aymeric Clouet and Christophe Dumarest have linked eight high peaks in the Écrins Massif in the western Alps by their north faces.
Slovenian Miha Valic Killed on Cho Oyu
10/08/08 – The tiny nation of Slovenia has lost its second great climber in 2008 to a Himalayan accident. (Updated – 10/09/08)
Hound Ears Bouldering
10/07/08 – Alex Johnson and Jon Glassberg won the 15th annual Hound Ears Bouldering Competition on a splitter day near Boone, North Carolina.
Arrans Free-Climb Wild Venezuelan Wall
10/03/08 – The British couple John and Anne Arran, veterans of several big new routes on Venezuela’s remote sandstone walls, have completed their “most adventurous big-wall expedition yet”.
Desperate New Routes in Germany, Spain
10/02/08 – Toni Lamprecht has redpointed a 150-foot “monster route” on the limestone of Kochel in southern Germany that might be as hard as 5.15a.
Big Sends in Euro Bouldering
10/01/08 – The past few days have seen a rush of activity on Europe’s hardest boulders, with some familiar names in the heart of the action. (New Photo Added – 10/02/08)
Sharma Onsights Two 5.14′s
9/30/08 – Chris Sharma has onsighted two 5.14 routes at Maple Canyon, Utah, in a long weekend of climbing.
Pearson Claims E12 on English Slab
9/30/08 – The young English climber James Pearson has climbed The Walk of Life (E12 7a) on a steep slab on the North Devon coast in southwest England. (New Photos Added – 9/30/08)
Spaniards Bag Virgin Peak in Pakistan
9/29/08 – A Spanish trio has climbed a steep, virgin rock peak in Pakistan, after their large expedition abandoned an attempt on 7,788-meter Rakaposhi.
Joe Kinder Climbs Kryptonite (5.14d)
9/24/08 – Joe Kinder has redpointed Kryptonite (5.14d) at the Fortress of Solitude near Rifle, Colorado.
Sean McColl’s Amazing World Cup Season
9/23/08 – Canadian Sean McColl finished third in a lead-climbing World Cup last weekend in Imst, Austria, extending his remarkable season.
Big Climbs in Alaska’s Arrigetch
9/22/08 – Ryan Hokanson and Samuel Johnson have completed two huge climbs in the Arrigetch Peaks in Alaska’s Gates of the Arctic National Park, including a major new route.
5.14-Plus Explosion in U.S. and Europe
9/15/08 – The past few days have seen a frenzy of hard sport climbing worldwide, including several 5.14d or harder ascents in the United States.
Sharma Redpoints Clark Mountain Project
9/12/08 – Chris Sharma has completed his 250-foot mega-project at Clark Mountain in Southern California.
Honnold Free-Solos Half Dome’s NW Face
9/10/08 – Alex Honnold has free-soloed the Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.12a, 23 pitches) on Half Dome in Yosemite National Park.
Multi-Pitch 5.14 Action in the Alps
9/09/08 – Czech climber Ondra Benes has completed a rare redpoint of The End of Silence (5.14a, 11 pitches), the Thomas Huber route in Germany that is still considered one of the hardest multipitch rock climbs in the Alps, 14 years after Huber first did it.
Koreans Climb Huge Himalayan Wall
9/04/08 – A Korean team has climbed the northeast face of Meru South (6,660m/21,850′), adjacent to the well-known Meru Shark’s Fin in India’s Garhwal Himalaya.
Swiss Redpoint Eiger’s Hardest Free Climb
9/03/08 – Switzerland’s Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck have completed a team-free redpoint ascent of the Eiger’s hardest free climb: Paciencia, a 23-pitch 5.13b on the north face.
Speedy U.S. Girls Sweep World Championship
9/02/08 – More than 300 climbers from 36 countries, including a large U.S. contingent, competed at the 16th Youth World Championship in Sydney, Australia, at the end of August.
Austria’s Zillertal at Risk
8/29/08 – Just weeks after Petzl’s RocTrip (July 23-27, 2008) it was announced that the alpine jewel of Austria is to be destroyed and used for construction materials.
Erbesfield-Raboutou: 5.14a at Age 45
8/27/08 – Fifteen years ago Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou was the third woman to climb 5.14. Now she’s just completed another 5.14a (8b+) near her summer home in France.
|Avalanche Near Mont Blanc Claims 8
8/25/08 – Eight climbers are missing and believed dead after an ice avalanche swept across the climbers’ trail on the slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul in France early Sunday morning.
Italian Duo Completes 21-pitch 5.13
8/22/08 – After three seasons of work, Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma have completed Coelophysis, a 21-pitch 5.13c on the 2,000-foot-high Mahren sector of Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke cliffs.
Rain Heavily Damages Castleton Trail
8/21/08 – A cloudburst on August 7 has badly damaged the climbers’ trail to the base of Castleton Tower, the iconic sandstone pinnacle near Moab, Utah.
New Route on Lower 48′s Biggest Rock Face
8/15/08 – Kelly Cordes and Justin Woods made a one-day ascent of the rarely climbed north face of Mt. Siyeh in Glacier National Park, completing a new route with about 3,000 feet of loose technical climbing in just 11 hours.
Americans Complete ‘Astroman of Peru’
8/14/08 – Dave Anderson and Brady Robinson have free-climbed the full version of Karma de los Condores (V 5.11+R) in the Ishinca Valley of Peru, completing a 14-pitch route that tops out at around 14,500 feet.
Sharma, Puccio win SLC Comp
8/11/08 – Chris Sharma and Alex Puccio won the Mammut Bouldering Championships in Salt Lake City on August 9.
Potter “BASE Solos” The Eiger
8/08/08 – Dean Potter has made a "BASE solo" (or FreeBASE) of Deep Blue Sea (5.12+) on the north face of The Eiger, Switzerland.
First Descent of the Caucasus’s Mt. Shkhara
8/07/08 – With the help of a ski exploration grant from the Hans Saari Memorial Fund, Jason Thompson, 27, Seth Waterfall, 33, and Tyler Jones, made the first (known) descents of Mount Shkhara (17,063 ft.), the highest peak in the Republic of Georgia, early this summer.
Karakoram Successes Obscured by K2 Disaster
8/05/08 – Last weekend’s disaster on K2, in which 11 climbers fell or froze to death on the upper mountain after a summit push on August 1, overshadowed some extraordinary successes in the Karakoram in recent days.
Disaster on K2
8/04/08 – A large number of climbers are dead or missing on K2 after an ice avalanche hit the upper mountain during a big summit push on August 1.
MacLeod Leads Hardest Headpoint Yet
7/31/08 – Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has led the Echo Wall on Ben Nevis, calling it “harder than Rhapsody (or anything else I’ve been on).”
Ondra Redpoints Legendary Swiss Multipitch
7/29/08 – The teenage Czech climber Adam Ondra has done the first redpoint ascent of WoGü (5.14), a super-sustained mini–big wall of limestone in the mountains of Switzerland.
Cobra Crack: Nico’s Story, Ethan’s Near Miss
7/28/08 – Nicolas Favresse, who made the second ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14) at Squamish on July 18, said it was “definitely the hardest trad I have ever done.”
Italians Rescued from Nanga Parbat
7/24/08 – Nine days after the death of Karl Unterkircher in a crevasse fall on Nanga Parbat, Unterkircher’s climbing partners, Simon Kehrer and Walter Nones, have been rescued from the mountain by helicopter.
The Path and Cobra Crack Repeated
7/21/08 – Two of North America’s hardest traditional rock climbs—both Sonnie Trotter routes in Canada—have been repeated in the past few days.
Patxi Usobiaga Onsights 5.14b/c
7/21/08 – The Basque climber Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted Home Sweet Home (5.14b/c) at Pierrot Beach, France, his second onsight harder than 5.14b.
Top Italian Climber Killed on Nanga Parbat
7/17/08 – Karl Unterkircher, one of the leading lights of Himalayan climbing in recent years, has been killed in a crevasse fall while attempting a new route on Nanga Parbat.
Rands Sends South African V12
7/16/08 – Lisa Rands sent Nutsa (V12) despite rainy weather at the sandstone mecca of Rocklands, South Africa.
U.S. Youth Climbing Team Chosen
7/16/08 – The 2008 U.S. Youth Climbing Team for lead and speed climbing was finalized July 13 at the Youth National Championships in Sunnyvale, California.
Climbers Letters Needed to Help Open Minnewaska State Park to Climbing
7/15/08 – Minnewaska State Park, which hosts numerous 50 foot crags on 200 foot quartzite cliffs – part of the greater Shawangunk Ridge (the Gunks) – is revising its Master Plan and potentially significantly expanding climbing opportunities in the Shawangunk region.
Newly Climbed Peak Named for Elizabeth Hawley
7/10/08 – The French ice climber François Damilano has named a newly climbed peak in Nepal after Elizabeth Hawley, the longtime chronicler of mountaineering in the Himalaya.
New High-Altitude 5.13 in Colorado
7/08/08 – Rob Pizem has added a second 5.13 route to the P Wall, located at around 12,000 feet near Mt. Evans in the Colorado Front Range.
Fatality on Mt. McKinley
7/07/08 – A climber collapsed and died on the summit of Mt. McKinley on the evening of July 4, 2008.
Nose Speed Record is Broken
7/02/08 – Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine have broken the speed record for climbing the Nose of El Capitan.
Pamela Varco Onsights Lucille Offwidth
7/01/08 – Pamela Pack Varco has onsighted Lucille (5.12+) at Vedauwoo, Wyoming, making the first female ascent and likely fifth or sixth overall ascent of the legendary offwidth and squeeze chimney.
|Hirayama-Florine Nearly Regain Nose Record
6/30/08 – Last fall, when Alexander and Thomas Huber broke the record for speed-climbing the Nose of El Capitan, Hans Florine vowed to retake the record that he had set in 2002 with Yuji Hirayama.
German Team Explores Remote Baffin Walls
6/24/08 – A five-man German expedition led by well-known climbers Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper has completed an arduous expedition along the coast of northeastern Baffin Island, including the first ascent of a 2,300-foot big-wall route.
AAC Sends Bradford Washburn’s Camera to Space
6/20/08 – John Grunsfeld, a life-long member of the AAC and lead astronaut on the Hubble Telescope mission will blast off this fall, 2008.
McClure Bags Third Ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a)
6/19/08 – The English climber Steve McClure nabbed the third ascent of Dave MacLeod’s Dumbarton Rock, Scotland, testpiece, Rhapsody (E11 7a; 5.14c R/X) on June 15, just six days after Sonnie Trotter redpointed the route, for its second ascent.
Pent Up in the Black Canyon – New 5.12 Added to Colorado’s Somber Gorge
6/16/08 – On June 7, Jason Nelson, Jack Jeffries, and Cody Sims, put up Pent Up, (5.12c 700 feet), a new seven-pitch Black Canyon line.
New Route on Kichatna Spire
6/12/08 – Zack Smith and Josh Wharton have climbed a new ice and mixed route to the summit of Kichatna Spire in Alaska.
Norwegians Repeat Historic Trango Route
6/11/08 – A four-man Norwegian team has made the probable second complete ascent of the Norwegian Buttress (VII 5.10+ A4) on Great Trango Tower in Pakistan. (New Photos Added – 6/16/08)
A 20-Hour Magic Mushroom Trip: Caldwell Raises The Bar (again) for El Capitan Free Climbing
6/11/08 – 20 hours and 2 minutes — that’s how long it took Tommy Caldwell to free-climb Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a), a strong contender for the world’s hardest big wall, in a single push, leading every pitch.
Sonnie Trotter Repeats Rhapsody
6/10/08 – Canadian Sonnie Trotter has repeated Rhapsody on Dumbarton Rock, Scotland, the first route in Great Britain given the E11 grade.
Alex Johnson Wins Vail World Cup
6/08/08 – As often happens at World Cup comps, the host country’s climbers stepped up this weekend to thrill the hometown crowd.
Americans Strong in Teva Qualifiers
6/07/08 – North American boulderers put on a very strong showing in the opening round of the Bouldering World Cup, hosted by the annual Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado.
New York Times Building Climbed Twice
6/06/08 – The world-renowned, free-soloist Alain "Spider-Man" Robert climbed the 52-story New York Times building on Thursday morning to raise awareness about global warming.
Alpinists Complete 100-Mile Mega-Traverse
6/06/08 – Alaskan Joe Stock, along with partners Dylan Taylor and Andrew Wexler, have completed a coveted 100-mile traverse of the Tordrillo Mountains, a western subrange of the Alaska Range.
Fallen Solo Climber Rescued From Peters Glacier
6/05/08 – Denali mountaineering rangers led a life-saving technical rope rescue of a fallen solo climber on Mt. McKinley the evening of June 3. (New Photos Added – 6/06/08)
Japanese “Warmed Up” on New Alaskan Testpiece
6/04/08 – Before completing their superb link-up of the Isis Face and Slovak Route on Denali in May, Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and Katsutaka Yokoyama completed the first ascent of the intimidating northeast face of Bear Tooth.
Sharma Climbs 5.15, Heads to Vail World Cup
6/03/08 – On the eve of the Vail World Cup, Chris Sharma has established a new 9a+ (5.15a) in Spain, his second new 9a or harder of the month.
Britain’s Got Talent: Champions Crowned in Blackpool
6/03/08 – British climbers showed their climbing prowess as they battled it out at the PlanetFear British Lead Climbing Championships at Blackpool Climbing Towers this weekend (24-25 May, 2008).
McClure’s new 5.15a Plus Q and A
6/02/08 – On May 20, 2008, Steve McClure, 37, freed his super-sustained 100-foot crimpfest project on the North Buttress at Kilnsey Crag, in Yorkshire, U.K., on his second redpoint attempt.
Climbers Lost Near End of Huge Alaskan Traverse
5/30/08 – The National Park Service has called off the active search for Japanese climbers Yuto Inoue, 24, and Tatsuro Yamada, 27, who disappeared high on the Cassin Ridge of Denali this month. (Updated – 6/02/08)
Massive Link-Up and Missing Climbers in Alaska
5/28/08 – A trio of Japanese climbers with years of experience in the Alaska Range completed a monumental link-up of hard routes on Denali over eight days in mid-May.
76 and 75 Atop Mt. Everest
5/27/08 – A 76- and 75-year-old have summited Mt. Everest, setting new age records for the world’s highest mountain.
Caldwell and Sjong free El Capitan’s Magic Mushroom
5/25/08 – This May, over the course of five days and in an uninterrupted push from the ground, Tommy Caldwell, 29, and Justen Sjong, 35, added a new first-free El Cap free feather to their already accomplished caps — Magic Mushroom (VI 5.13d/14a) — climbed from May 12 through 16.
McColl and Thirza Top Canadian Nationals
5/22/08 – For the third consecutive year, Canadian wunderkind Sean McColl took top spot at the Tour De Bloc Bouldering Championships, having little challenge defeating a strong field of contenders.
Ondra, 15, Repeats Action Directe
5/21/08 – Adam Ondra, the 15-year-old Czech who has already completed nine 5.14d or harder routes, added perhaps the first and most famous 5.14+ to his resume this week: Action Directe in Germany’s Frankenjura. (New Video Added – 5/28/08)
Speedy Ascent of Deprivation on Mt. Hunter
5/20/08 – Zoe Hart and Max Turgeon took advantage of unusually good conditions on the north buttress of Mt. Hunter in Alaska and raced up Deprivation in just 23 hours from the bergschrund to the cornice at the top of the 4,000-foot wall.
|New Route to Ama Dablam’s Summit
5/15/08 – An Italian-Spanish pair has climbed a new variation on the west face of 22,493-foot Ama Dablam, the striking peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
French Climb Major New Route on Mt. Dickey
5/13/08 – Four French climbers have made the first ascent of the northeast arête of Mt. Dickey in Alaska.
Hidden Alaskan Peak Gets First Ascent
5/13/08 – Ben Gilmore, Maxime Turgeon, and Freddie Wilkinson have completed the first ascent of the Bat’s Ears, an 11,044-foot peak that was possibly the highest unclimbed major summit in the Alaska Range.
French Team Repeats Alaskan Testpiece
5/09/08 – A quartet of French climbers has repeated the 1974 route on the southeast face of Mt. Dickey in the Alaska Range, likely the third ascent of this mile-high alpine climb.
The Haute Route in a Day!
5/05/08 – A pair of elite French skiers has completed the famed Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt in less than 24 hours.
Austrian Woman Climbs 11th 8,000′er
5/02/08 – Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summited 8,167-meter Dhaulagiri in Nepal on May 1, giving her 11 of the 14 main 8,000-meter summits on Earth, more than any other woman. (New Photo Added – 5/15/08)
Swiss Duo Completes Much-Tried Nepalese Face
4/30/08 – Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck from Switzerland have completed the highly prized north face of Tengkangpoche in Nepal to its 21,283-foot summit, on their second attempt this season. (Updated – 5/15/08)
Kinder Creates Utah Testpiece
4/28/08 – Joe Kinder has completed Golden Direct (5.14c/d) at the Cathedral near St. George, Utah.
Yuji Hirayama Still Has the Power
4/24/08 – Japan’s Yuji Hirayama, one of the great all-around rock climbers of the past decade, has focused on bouldering at home this spring, with impressive results.
Colorado Headpoint Gets Four Repeats
4/23/08 – The trad-style/headpoint testpiece Must’a Been High (5.13c R), on the Rincon Wall in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, saw a record four ascents over a three-week period in late February, early March.
Woods Places Third in Bouldering World Cup
4/21/08 – Coloradan Daniel Woods finished third in the first bouldering World Cup of 2008, in Hall, Austria. The podium finish was Woods’ best result ever at a European competition.
Lamprecht’s Hardest Problem: In His Own Words
4/20/08 – The superb all-arounder Toni Lamprecht has climbed his hardest boulder problem—and perhaps the hardest in Germany—with the first ascent of Assassin, Monkey and Man (ungraded) at Kochel in Bavaria.
AAC Gives Nearly $20K in Climbing Grants
4/18/08 – The American Alpine Club has announced the 2008 winners of its two major expedition grants: the Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award and the McNeill-Nott Award. Seven grants totaling $19,500 will help American climbers attempt new routes from Alaska to Pakistan.
Two Quick Ascents of The Fly
4/14/08 – The Fly, a short 5.14+ route or V14 boulder problem in Rumney, New Hampshire, has seen two quick repeats, including the second bouldering ascent and the second one-day ascent of the climb.
Graham Puts Up V15 in Cradle of Bouldering
4/11/08 – Dave Graham has completed a longstanding project at Fontainebleau, France, and graded it 8C (V15). (New Photo Added – 4/14/08)
Near-Winter New Route on Alberta’s North Face
4/09/08 – Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House climbed a new route through the rock headwall atop Mt. Alberta’s 3,250-foot north face in late March—the first time this daunting Canadian Rockies wall has been ascended in full winter conditions.
Honnold Makes a High-Stakes Solo in Zion
4/08/08 – Some thought it was an April Fools joke. Who would, or could, free solo Zion’s Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12d; 1,200 feet)? No joke, it turns out, and the climber was Alex Honnold, 22, of Sacramento, California.
Big New Route in Alaska’s Mendenhall Towers
4/08/08 – Ryan Johnson and Sam Magro, recipients of a 2008 Mugs Stump Award, have made the first ascent of the north face of the West Tower of the Mendenhall Towers (near Juneau, Alaska), via a beautiful 2,500-foot mixed route.
Climber Plans Olympic Protest atop World’s Summits
4/08/08 – Italian mountaineer and artist Alberto Peruffo has unveiled a plan for a series of mountaintop protests of Chinese repression in Tibet.
Climber Helicopter Crashes in Pamir Mountains
3/31/08 – A Soviet era Mi-8 helicopter owned by the state carrier Tajik Air, which was transporting eleven climbers, crashed in the Pamir mountains, according to a statement issued by the Interior Minister.
Slovenian Woman Climbs 5.14c
3/27/08 – Natalija Gros has redpointed Histerija, an 8c+ (5.14c) route at Misja Pec in Slovenia.
Huge Canadian Faces Fall in Winter Conditions
3/26/08 – Two major Canadian Rockies walls have had significant ascents in winter conditions: one by a first winter ascent, and the other by a new route.
Ice Climbers Clean Up in Remote Rockies
3/26/08 – An all-star international team has reaped a rich bounty of new ice and mixed climbs in the Canadian Rockies during a nine-day trip to the remote Icefall Brook area.
Speed-Flying Descent of Aconcagua South Face
3/24/08 – François Bon has made a speed-flying descent of the south face of Aconcagua, one of the world’s great mountain walls. (New Video Added – 5/20/08)
Pizem Completes Massive 5.13+ Roof Crack
3/22/08 – Rob Pizem has done the first ascent of a long horizontal crack near Moab, Utah, that he is giving 5.13d, making it one of the hardest roof cracks in America.
|Honnold Rapid-Fires Two Desert-Crack Testpieces
3/21/08 – Alex Honnold crushed two wicked crack routes, Bushido and Hong Kong Phooey, in the arid southeast desert of Utah, between March 9 and March 11, 2008.
Wild Ben Nevis Route Completed
3/19/08 – After making news earlier this month for his free solo of a possible 5.14b in Spain, all-star all-arounder Dave MacLeod returned to his home in Scotland, where he finished off one of the hardest winter routes in the United Kingdom.
MacLeod Solos 5.14b in Spain
3/14/08 – The bold Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has soloed a 5.14b sport climb in Spain. MacLeod free-soloed Darwin Dixit (8c/5.14b) at Margalef; he had made the third ascent of the climb last spring. (New Video Added – 3/17/08)
Coloradans Bag FA of South Avellano Tower
3/13/08 – Jim Donini and Thom Engelbach have made the first ascent of the southernmost Avellano Tower, a group of remote granite spires northwest of Lago General Carrera in Chilean Patagonia. (New Photos Added – 3/17/08)
Beautiful New Route on Patagonian Spire
3/13/08 – Americans Toby Grohne and Jesse Huey established a striking new route on Agjua St. Exupery, a satellite peak south of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Beth Rodden’s Meltdown: The Interview
3/11/08 – On February 14 (Valentine’s Day), Beth Rodden made the first ascent of what’s likely Yosemite’s single hardest traditional pitch: Meltdown, a 70-foot 5.14 crack at Upper Cascade Falls.
Weihenmayer Does 14-Pitch Nepali Ice Climb
3/11/08 – Blind mountaineer Erik Weihenmayer has climbed the 700-meter frozen waterfall Losar (VI WI5) in Nepal.
New 5.12+ Wall in Zion
3/07/08 – Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have added yet another desperate free climb in Zion National Park.
Americans Climb Big Route in Oman
3/06/08 – Four Americans climbed a new route on the 900-meter south face of Jebel Misht, the enormous limestone wall in Oman, at the eastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula.
Potter Climbs Desperate 40-Foot Roof Crack
3/06/08 – Dean Potter has completed a 40-foot sandstone roof problem near his Moab, Utah, home that he called “definitely the hardest roof crack that I know of.”
BASE Jump From Cerro Torre
3/04/08 – A Russian climber has BASE jumped from the upper tower of Cerro Torre, making the first known flight from Patagonia’s iconic spire.
5.14c at Age 12
3/03/08 – Once again a phenomenally strong young European climber has climbed a hard 5.14: This time it’s Geoffray de Flaugergues from France, who redpointed La Novena Puerta (8c+/5.14c) at Santa Linya, Spain, during his February school vacation.
Possible V15 in Italy
3/03/08 – Italian Christian Core has completed the long version of a boulder problem called Gioia at Varazze, Italy, and given it 8C (V15).
Trad is Rad in the Canadian Rockies
2/25/08 – Inspired by high-end winter activity in Scotland, some of the Canadian Rockies’ leading winter activists have adopted a back-to-the-future attitude this season, with a slew of new mixed routes protected with traditional gear.
M14 Climbed Spur-Less in Colorado
2/21/08 – Frenchman Jeff Mercier, who won the international competition at the Ouray Ice Festival in January, subsequently made a trip to the remote town of Lake City to attempt Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden’s Jedi Mind Tricks, a possible M14.
Jody Hansen Climbs Hueco V12
2/19/08 – Coloradan Jody Hansen sent Rumble in the Jungle (V12) at Hueco Tanks, making the first female ascent of the roof problem—and making Hansen one of the few women in the world to boulder a consensus V12.
Robinson, Puccio Are National Bouldering Champs
2/19/08 – Paul Robinson and Alex Puccio won the men’s and women’s open bouldering comps at the ABS National Championships in Colorado.
Fitz Roy’s Royal Flush Climbed Alpine-Style
2/15/08 – Americans Jimmy Haden and Mike Pennings have made the first alpine-style ascent of Royal Flush—and only the second complete ascent of the route to the summit of Fitz Roy.
Steck Smashes Own Record on Eiger
2/14/08 – Switzerland’s Ueli Steck has chopped more than an hour off his own speed record for climbing the north face of the Eiger.
New Englanders Complete Huge Traverse in Patagonia
2/12/08 – New Hampsherites Dana “Mad Dog” Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson have done a superb three-day traverse of Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, and Fitz Roy by its North Pillar.
Adam Ondra: Two 5.15′s in a Week
2/11/08 – Adam Ondra, the Czech wunderkind who just turned 15, celebrated his birthday and a short break from high school by climbing two 5.15a routes in a week.
Dolomites of the Desert
2/07/08 – The massive limestone cliffs of Oman on the eastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula are hot this winter, with many new routes being established.
Legendary Gritstone Route Gets First Ascent
2/05/08 – James Pearson has climbed one of the “last great problems” of English gritstone, The Groove (E10 7b), at Cratcliffe.
Spain’s Edu Marin Climbs Second 5.15
2/04/08 – Edu Marín, one of Spain’s brightest young stars, has redpointed La Novena Enmienda (9a+/5.15a) at Santa Linya, his second 5.15 route.
The AAC Announces Annual Awards
2/01/08 – Every year, the American Alpine Club honors those who have advanced climbing’s frontier and made significant strides in protecting the planet’s most iconic and threatened mountain environments.
|Harrington, Sharma Are National Champs
1/28/08 – Emily Harrington and Chris Sharma topped very strong fields at last weekend’s comp near Salt Lake City to be named adult national champions in lead climbing.
34 Days Alone on a Patagonian Wall
1/28/08 – Californian Dave Turner has reportedly completed a solo new route on the east face of Cerro Escudo, a colossal peak just to the west of the Torres del Paine in Chile.
Garibotti and Haley Complete Torre Traverse
1/26/08 – Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley have completed the much-discussed—and occasionally attempted—Torre Traverse: the link-up of Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre in a single alpine-style outing.
50 Pitches at Tennessee Wall in a Day
1/25/08 – Chattanoogan transplants Nathaniel Walker and Luke Laeser recently climbed 50 pitches at Tennessee’s T Wall in a day.
New Route on Fitz Roy’s North Pillar
1/21/08 – Bean Bowers and Rolando Garibotti have climbed a much-eyed line on the “back side” of the North Pillar (aka Goretta Pillar) of Fitz Roy in Argentine Patagonia.
Lisa Rands Boulders Mandala (V12)
1/21/08 – Lisa Rands has climbed The Mandala (V12) in the Buttermilks near her home in Bishop, California. Rands first started trying the overhanging granite prow last season.
Piolet d’Or Suspended for 2008
1/18/08 – Organizers of the Piolet d’Or, the best-known prize in international mountaineering, have scrubbed plans for the 2008 award ceremony after running out of time to organize a prize with new criteria.
2008 Mugs Stump Award Winners Announced
1/17/08 – The recipients of the 2008 Mugs Stump Award were announced at the Ouray Ice Festival in mid-January, at Ouray, Colorado.
Stiff Mixed at Cannon Cliff
1/16/08 – Peter Doucette and Freddie Wilkinson have climbed the second major new route of the season on the left side of New Hampshire’s Cannon Cliff.
Big-Wall Free Climbing in South Africa
1/15/08 – Jeremy Samson and a gang of other climbers have completed the first free ascent of Newborn (29/5.13a, 14 pitches) at Yellowwood, a massive sandstone cliff in the Du Toits Kloof area, north of Cape Town.
Frenchman Mercier Wins Ouray Comp
1/15/08 – Jeff Mercier from France won the mixed-climbing comp at the 13th Ouray Ice Festival in southwestern Colorado.
2008 – Hillary Dead at 88
1/11/08 – Sir Edmund Hillary, one of the first two men to climb the world’s highest peak, died January 11 in Auckland, New Zealand, his home city.
Whitehorse Slabs Skied
1/10/08 – Dan Corn and Jim Surette have skied the snow-covered granite slabs of Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway, New Hampshire, making two short rappels to bypass unskiable ice.
Nice New Ice in New England
1/10/08 – Before the big meltdown this week, New Englanders snagged some fine first ascents. In New Hampshire’s Crawford Notch, Eric McCallister completed the first lead of Dial M for Murder (WI4+ M8) on Mt. Willard.
McColl Beats Storms to V14 in Bishop
1/08/08 – Canadian Sean McColl snuck in an ascent of Goldfish Trombone at the Happy Boulders in California, as major storms pounded the Sierra.
Two “New” Routes in Patagonia
1/04/08 – Colin Haley spent Christmas climbing the rarely summited Aguja Desmochada in Patagonia via a partial new route.
Paul Robinson Repeats Terremer (V15/V16)
1/03/08 – Paul Robinson has made the second ascent of Terremer (V15), the hardest boulder problem at Hueco Tanks, Texas.
First V13 Flash by an American
1/02/08 – Paul Robinson has flashed Nagual, a “hard V13” at Hueco Tanks, Texas. Robinson “waited two years” to try Nagual, hoping for a successful flash of the 45-degree overhanging wall in the East Spur Maze.
Major New Routes in Antarctica
1/02/08 – An international team has climbed new routes on 16,050-foot Mt. Vinson, Antarctica’s highest peak, and 14,803-foot Mt. Epperly, making the third and fourth ascents of Epperly in the process.
Hueco’s Mushroom Boulder Closed
12/31/07 – Sometimes called the single best boulder in the world, the Mushroom Boulder at Hueco Tanks, Texas, has been closed to climbing to protect the soil, plant life, and possible archaeological resources under the rock.
McBride On Fire in Bishop
12/26/07 – Kelly McBride visited Bishop in mid-December, and came away with a handful of high-level sends.
Owls Head Cliff Saved
11/24/07 – The U.S. Forest Service has added 360 acres of land containing Owls Head Cliff to White Mountain National Forest in New Hampshire, completing protection of the large granite cliff.
Solo on Mt. Cook’s Biggest Face
12/21/07 – Twenty-year-old Dave Manning has soloed the Caroline Face on Aoraki–Mt. Cook in New Zealand.
Slovenians Find Success in Nepal
12/20/07 – A six-member Slovenian team managed four new routes in the Kangchenjunga area of northeastern Nepal, after failing to reach the base of its original objective.
12/17/07 – Daniel Woods has made the second ascent of Midnight Express (V14) near Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon, Colorado.
|Usobiaga Makes Historical First Onsight of an 8c+ (5.14c)
12/13/07 – The superhuman Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted the first ascent of Bizi Euskaraz (8c+, or 5.14c), at the Etxauri crag in the Navarra region of Spain.
Cannon’s Mean Streak
12/12/07 – New Englanders Andy Tuthill and Will Mayo have climbed a difficult new mixed route on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire, 200 feet to the left of Omega (IV 5+) and just right of the Henderson Buttress.
New Testpiece on Ben Nevis
12/12/07 – Finding excellent conditions on Ben Nevis, Steve Ashworth, Viv Scott, and Andy Turner made the first ascent of The Secret, a two-pitch crack line on the side of Number 3 Gully.
Winter Dance Free-Climbed
12/10/07 – Whit Magro and Kristoffer Erickson have free-climbed the classic Montana ice route Winter Dance, nearly ten years after its first ascent.
Triple Crown: The Stone Fort
12/07/07 – Lisa Rands and Paul Robinson won the third and final stage of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series at the Stone Fort (aka Little Rock City) near Chattanooga, Tennessee.
Unclimbed China: Photos to Drool Over
12/05/07 – The great Japanese explorer Tamotsu Nakamura has returned from another expedition to far western China with photos of stunning unclimbed peaks.
Best Week of Climbing Ever?
12/03/07 – Patxi Usobiaga has concluded perhaps the most impressive week in sport-climbing history with his repeat of La Novena Enmienda (9a+/5.15a) at Santa Linya, Spain.
World Cup Champ Climbs Another 5.15
11/28/07 – Nine days after he clinched the 2007 World Cup title in Slovenia, Patxi Usobiaga returned to Spain and very quickly made the fifth ascent of La Rambla (9a+/5.15a) at Siurana.
Patagonian Torres Traversed Twice
11/27/07 – Two teams seized the same weather window last week to traverse three of the four summits of the Torre group in Argentine Patagonia, a feat only accomplished once before.
Two Winter Attempts on 8,000-ers
11/27/07 – Two tiny teams, each pairing an Italian and a Pakistani climber, are about to attempt unprecedented winter ascents of 8,000-meter peaks in the Karakoram.
New Route in Nepal for French Team
11/26/07 – A four-man French team has climbed a difficult new route to a previously unclimbed subpeak of Ganesh V in Nepal.
Mighty MOG Gets First Ascent
11/20/07 – Rob Owens and Eamonn Walsh have climbed another big “alpine cragging” route in the Canadian Rockies – and possibly made the first ascent of a peak little more than 30 minutes’ drive from Banff.
Trice as Nice
11/19/07 – Thirty-two years after its first ascent, one of Colorado’s most famous boulder problems was repeated twice in the same afternoon.
Vidmar, Usobiaga are World Cup Champs
11/19/07 – In a topsy-turvy last stage of the lead-climbing World Cup, in Kranj, Slovenia, several of the main contenders for the 2007 overall title didn’t even make the finals.
Bouldering World Cup Coming to Vail
11/14/07 – A World Cup is coming to Vail, Colorado, and this time it isn’t for skiers. The Teva Mountain Games will host the first Bouldering World Cup ever staged in the U.S. on June 6 and 7, 2008.
Big New Routes Keep Falling in the Rockies
11/13/07 – Two more major new ice routes have been climbed in the Canadian Rockies, still weeks before the official start of winter.
Bouldering Championships: Boston and Brno
11/12/07 – Paul Robinson and Alex Puccio won the third and final Mammut/EMS Bouldering Championships, at the Metrorock gyms outside Boston.
Andrada Calls New Link-Up 5.15b
11/09/07 – Dani Andrada has given 9b (5.15b) to a link-up he has completed in the Alí Baba cave at Rodellar, Spain.
Visitors Pillage the Canadian Rockies
11/07/07 – A Swiss duo that had already climbed one major new route in the Canadian Rockies has added another big new route, along with several impressive repeats. Meanwhile, visiting French climber Daniel du Lac joined locals Eric Dumerac and Steve Holeczi to climb another new route.
Jorgeson FAs Bishop Highball
11/07/07 – Forty feet high with no rope, no belayer, and only one decent hold—a left-foot nubbin. No problem for 23-year-old Kevin Jorgeson, who just nabbed the first ascent of Footprints (V9 or E6), on the North Face of Grandpa Peabody just outside Bishop, California.
Americans Climb Big New Route in China
11/06/07 – Peter Inglis and Joe Puryear have made the probable first ascent of Peak 5,965m, the second-highest peak in the Genyen Massif in western China.
Banff Book and Film Winners Named
11/06/07 – Two works about mountain tragedies—on Nanga Parbat and Denali—took the grand prizes at the Banff Mountain Festivals, which concluded on November 4.
Swiss Duo on a Rampage in Canada
10/30/07 – The Swiss climbers Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck are on an early-season rampage in the Canadian Rockies, climbing a significant new route and two major repeats over the last two weeks.
Report: Humar Solos Annapurna South Face
10/30/07 – Tomaz Humar from Slovenia has reportedly soloed the legendary South Face of Annapurna. It is not yet known which route he followed, or if he climbed a new route.
Huge New Ice Climb in the Rockies
10/25/07 – Cory Richards, Dana Ruddy, and Ian Welsted have climbed a huge and dangerousnew ice route in the Canadian Rockies.
|Mt. Alberta’s West Face Climbed
10/25/07 – Raphael Slawinski and Eamonn Walsh made the first ascent of the West Face of 11,873-foot Mt. Alberta, one of the Canadian Rockies’ most daunting peaks, in mid-September.
Alpine-Style New Route on Jannu
10/22/07 – Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov have completed the northwest buttress of 7,710-meter Jannu in Nepal in a superb alpine-style ascent.
Big New Ice Route in Patagonia
10/17/07 – A Spanish quartet, driven off Cerro Torre by falling ice, switched gears and quickly climbed a 1,000-meter new route on a neighboring peak.
Sports Action at the Petzl RocTrip
10/16/07 – This year’s Petzl RocTrip and Rocktoberfest rocked the Red River Gorge in the lush forests of Kentucky on October 12-14. VIEW THE EVENT PHOTO GALLERY
Possible 5.15a in New Hampshire
10/16/07 – Vasya Vorotnikov has re-redpointed Jaws at Rumney, New Hampshire, after several key holds broke, giving it a new name and a whopping big grade: 5.15a.
Second Ascent of V16 Boulder
10/15/07 – Chris Webb Parsons has made the second ascent of The Wheel of Life (V16) in the Grampians of Australia.
North Americans On Fire at Rodellar
10/11/07 – American Ethan Pringle and Canadian Sean McColl have had a brilliant autumn at Rodellar, Spain.
Slo-Am in the Charakusa: The Full Report
10/10/07 – The Slovenian-American team of Marko Prezelj, Vince Anderson, and Steve House completed a highly productive visit to the Charakusa Valley in the Karakoram in Ausugst and September, despite a generally poor season of climbing conditions.
Hubers Shave More Time From Nose Record
10/09/07 – Alexander and Thomas Huber have completed their second record-breaking climb of the Nose of El Capitan, climbing the 31-pitch route in 2 hours 45 minutes 45 seconds.
Turgeon Solos Unclimbed Peak in Pakistan
10/08/07 – Canadian Maxime Turgeon, whose partner was injured during an acclimatization climb, forged ahead all alone on Farol East, making the first ascent of the 6,350-meter peak in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan.
Hubers on the Nose: 2:48:35
10/06/07 – The Huber brothers, Alex and Thomas, have climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2 hours 48 minutes 35 seconds, breaking the speed record for Yosemite Valley’s iconic big-wall climb by a mere 20 seconds.
Kazakhs Climb K2′s North Ridge
10/03/07 – After abandoning their dreams of an alpine-style new route on the North Face of K2 because of continuing severe weather, Serguey Samoilov and Denis Urubko succeeded on the rarely climbed North Ridge of the 28,250-foot peak on October 2.
Big Day on Mt. Evans
10/02/07 – Paul Robinson had an extraordinary day of bouldering on the slopes of Mt. Evans in Colorado last week, climbing all of the problems on the heavily stacked Dali Boulder in a single afternoon.
Two-Kilometer Free Route in Greenland
9/27/07 – Polish climbers David Kashlikowski and Eliza Kubarska have completed an all-free route on the 4,900-foot sea cliff of the Thumbnail at the southern tip of Greenland.
Astroman and Rostrum Free-Solo
9/26/07 – Alex Honnold has free-soloed Astroman (5.11c, 10 pitches) and the Rostrum (5.11c, 8 pitches) in Yosemite Valley in a single day.
World Champions Crowned
9/24/07 – The weeklong world championship of climbing in Aviles, Spain, has concluded, crowning new champions in lead climbing, bouldering, and speed.
High-Altitude Testpiece in Colorado
9/20/07 – Rob Pizem has redpointed a three-pitch line at around 12,000 feet (3,658m) on Mt. Evans in Colorado with a crux second pitch that goes at 5.13c/d.
Women’s Team Pioneers Pakistani Free Route
9/19/07 – The Anglo-Canadian team of Luisa Giles, Sarah Hart, and Jacqueline Hudson has established a 3,000-foot free route on a 17,000-foot rock spire near the base of Latok III in Pakistan.
2007 – Bob Bates Passes
9/19/07 – Robert Hicks Bates, a pioneer of American climbing in the Yukon and the Himalaya, died on September 13 at age 96.
2007 Go Fast Games
9/18/07 – On September 14–16, 2007 at the Royal Gorge Bridge near Canon City, Colorado speed demons Brian Gallant, Aaron Simmons climbed the Clean Dan Memorial (5.11b) five times over three days in the Go Fast Games. The event also features Base Jumping off the bridge.
Four Big Free Routes in India
9/18/07 – An American expedition completed four new routes in the Miyar Valley of India’s Himachel Pradesh mountains, climbing all free and bagging three virgin summits.
Americans Fare Well at Arco
9/18/07 – Emily Harrington and Daniel Woods, the only Americans competing at the 21st Rock Master in Arco, Italy, each finished fifth in their events at the world’s most prestigious invitation competition.
Pringle Sends Realization
9/06/07 – American Ethan Pringle has climbed Realization (5.15a, aka Biographie) at Ceüse, France, making the fifth ascent of the landmark climb.
Coloradans Climb Huge Indian Wall
9/04/07 – Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made a speedy, alpine-style first ascent of the 19,200-foot “Shafat Fortress” in Kashmir, India.
Welcome to Crackistan
8/31/07 – British couple John and Anne Arran had a very successful expedition to the Nangma Valley in Pakistan, making almost entirely free ascents of two very hard and continuous big-wall routes.
|Canadians Bag Rock Needle in Pakistan
8/31/07 – A Canadian expedition, foiled by poor conditions on its primary objective, managed a probable new route on Peak 5,750m.
More Ticks of Colorado’s Hardest Boulders
8/30/07 – Two of Colorado’s hardest boulder problems have each gotten a third ascent. Paul Robinson made the third ascent of Jade (V15) in Rocky Mountain National Park, after six days of work on the line.
2007 World Youth Championships
8/28/07 – American climbers landed four podium positions at the World Youth Championships in Ecuador, more than holding their own with superstars like Charlotte Durif of France and Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic.
MacLeod: To Hell and Back
8/27/07 – Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has completed “the most dangerous lead I’ve ever done,” a new route at Hell’s Lum crag in the Cairngorm mountains.
Huge Free Climbs in Pakistan
8/24/07 – A small Belgian-Polish team completed three free or mostly free routes on huge walls in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan, near the base of massive K7 and K7 West.
Trotter Climbs 5.14 R in Alberta
8/23/07 – Canadian Sonnie Trotter has redpointed The Path (5.14 R) at the Back of the Lake area in Lake Louise, Alberta.
Five Bugaboo Routes in a Day
8/22/07 – Canadian Matt Maddaloni has completed likely the biggest link-up yet in the Bugaboos of British Columbia: five multipitch routes to five different summits, all free and all solo.
Russians Conquer K2′s West Face
8/21/07 – A Russian expedition has completed the 8,500-foot-high West Face of K2 after more than 10 weeks of effort.
60 British Classics in 36 Days
8/17/07 – Is it newsworthy to climb 60 routes graded 5.10 and easier? If the routes are the 60 climbs in the classic British book Hard Rock and they’re climbed in just five weeks during one of the rainiest U.K summers in memory, it’s a remarkable achievement.
2007 – Trundled Rock Kills NOLS Leader
8/14/07 – Peter Absolon, 47, was killed by rock fall in the Wind River Range on August 11, apparently the victim of a rock thrown from above by a hiker.
Massive Squamish Link-Up
8/13/07 – Paul Cordy and Matt Maddaloni have completed an extended version of the “Triple Crown” of long, hard free climbing at Squamish, British Columbia.
New Route on Beautiful Taulliraju
8/13/07 – Californian Dave Turner and Micah Retz have climbed a new route on the North Face of Taulliraju, the 5,830-meter “ice flower” of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
Huber Climbs Dolomites Mega-Roof
8/10/07 – Alexander Huber has redpointed an enormous 5.14 overhang, once called the “biggest roof on earth,” starting five pitches up the 1,500-foot north face of Cima Ovest in the Dolomites’ famous Tre Cime.
5.14 Crack Redpointed Again
8/08/07 – Sylvain “Sly” Masse has redpointed La Zébrée, the 5.14a crack climb at Mont King in Québec.
Landman Repeats V15 Jade
8/08/07 – Tyler Landman has made the second ascent of Jade (V15), a boulder problem in Rocky Mountain National Park that had bouted the best for years before it was completed earlier this year by Daniel Woods.
Ondra Shines in the Alps
8/07/07 – Adam Ondra, the 14-year-old Czech phenom best known for his 5.14d redpoints, has repeated the legendary Alpine testpiece Silbergeier (5.14a, 6 pitches) and free-climbed Zub za Zub (5.14a, 5 pitches) on the limestone walls of the Rätikon in Switzerland.
MacLeod Puts Scottish Legend to Rest
8/04/07 – Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has completed a legendary unfinished project in Glen Nevis, near the base of the highest peak in Great Britain.
Trident: Yes; Latok: No
8/03/07 – A highly experienced American team bagged the first ascent of a huge spire in Pakistan but came up short on their main objective: the North Ridge of Latok I.
New Route on Shipton Spire
8/02/07 – A Russian team has squeezed another line on Shipton Spire’s Southeast Face in Pakistan—a 1,300-meter granite wall that, remarkably, is getting almost as crowded as El Capitan’s Southeast Face.
Graham Nails Realization’s 4th Ascent
7/31/07 – Dave Graham has redpointed Realization (5.15a) at Ceüse, France, completing the landmark route’s fourth ascent. Graham had been attempting the route periodically ever since he belayed Chris Sharma on the first ascent in 2001, and had spent several weeks at the cliff this summer hoping to finish it off.
World Dyno Record Broken Twice
7/27/07 – High flyers from America and Germany broke the world dyno record twice in just over a week at contests in Europe.
Mr. Peru Does It Again
7/27/07 – Slovenian Pavle Kozjek and partner Grega Kresal have made the first ascent of the East Face of 5,410-meter Puscantrupa Este—and probably the second ascent of the peak—in Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash.
Two New Routes on Great Trango
7/25/07 – Two Russian teams have completed big-wall routes on the enormous Northwest Face of Great Trango Tower in Pakistan. A four-man team climbed a new line on the right side of the 2,000-meter wall in six days, free climbing about three-quarters of the route.
Italians Climb G-II’s North Face
7/25/07 – Daniele Bernasconi and Karl Unterkircher summited 8,035-meter Gasherbrum II on July 20, completing a new route up a prominent 3,000-meter spur on the peak’s unclimbed North Face.
Celebrating Micheal O’ Riordan
7/23/07 – Valentia Island lies off the southwest corner of Ireland, off the famed Ring of Kerry and forming the southern arm of Dingle Bay. Fogher cliffs lie at the northern side of Valentia near where the first trans-Atlantic cable brought Morse messages to Newfoundland, 150 years ago.
|2007 – Reardon Presumed Dead in Ireland
7/15/07 – Michael Reardon, 36, the accomplished free soloist based out of Oak Park, California, went missing off the southwestern coast of Ireland around 5 p.m. Friday.
Speedy Ascent of Denali Diamond
7/06/07 – Colin Haley and Mark Westman climbed the Denali Diamond route on Mt. McKinley’s southwest face in less than 48 hours, from the bergschrund to the summit, making the probable fifth ascent of one of Alaska’s most beautiful climbs.
Beautiful New Route in Pakistan
7/04/07 – Himalayan veterans Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff from France have climbed a difficult route in pure alpine style to make the first ascent of 7,350-meter Pumari Chhish South.
New Route on Stunning Arwa Tower
6/26/07 – A Swiss trio has made the first ascent of the striking Northeast Face of 20,840-foot Arwa Tower in India’s Garhwal Himalaya.
Harrington Third in World Cup
6/25/07 – Colorado’s Emily Harrington proved once again that she is one of the world’s best competition sport climbers, finishing third in a World Cup in Zürich, Switzerland.
Woods Bags Rocky Mountain Super-Project
6/21/07 – Daniel Woods bagged the first ascent of a much-coveted Rocky Mountain National park super-project, Jade (V15, and formerly known as the Green 45).
Alps Masters: An Interview With Miha Valic and Martin Moran
6/20/07 – When the Slovenian alpinist Miha Valic topped all 82 4,000-meter Alps peaks in 102 days, beginning on December 27, 2006, and ending April 7, he completed a major feat, one that has, in his words, “been a thorn in the European alpinists’ flesh for a while.”
Base Camp: Malaysia
6/20/07 – On Malaysia’s high point, Mount Kinabalu (13,435 feet), lurks a climber’s paradise, a granite plateau beetling with unclimbed aiguilles and rent by a 2,000-foot-deep canyon.
New Routes on Alaska’s Pika Glacier
6/20/07 – Martin Gutmannn and Lucas Iten, both from Switzerland, and the Coloradoan Jack Sasser took a successful spring trip to Alaska’s Pika Glacier, climbing three first ascents and repeating two routes, without placing any bolts or pitons.
Ode to the Modern Man
6/12/07 – The English phenom Tyler Landman scored the second ascent of one of Colorado’s hardest boulder problems, Ode to the Modern Man (V15), on May 26.
Teva Mountain Games Results
6/08/07 – Daniel Woods snatched his third consecutive victory at the annual Teva Mountain Games bouldering comp in Vail, Colorado, and Alex Puccio won her second title in a row.
Two Major New Routes in the Black Canyon
6/08/07 – Two pairs of the leading activists in Colorado’s Black Canyon of the Gunnison have completed major new free climbs, each a multiyear project.
All-Free Rope Solo of El Capitan
6/06/07 – Canadian Stéphane Perron capped a remarkable string of solo ascents in Yosemite Valley with an all-free rope solo of Free Rider (37 pitches, 5.12d) on El Capitan.
Mr. Serious – Ethan Pringle flashes Utah V12
5/31/07 – When someone gets on a rip — as the California climber Ethan Pringle has in the last few months — it’s almost impossible to keep up with him.
Robson: Then and Now
5/31/07 – Other than Steve House and Colin Haley, the person most excited about the new House-Haley Route on the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson was Jim Logan, who made the first ascent of the face in 1978.
McClure Climbs Possible 5.15a
5/30/07 – Steve McClure has redpointed a possible 9a+ (5.15a) at Malham Cove in Yorkshire, creating what could be the hardest sport climb in Great Britain.
New Route on Robson’s Emperor Face
5/29/07 – Colin Haley and Steve House leapt into an open weather window and quickly climbed a new route on the massive Emperor Face of Mt. Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.
Free Solo of El Cap-Sized 5.12 in Dolomites
5/24/07 – Austrian Hansjörg Auer has free-soloed the legendary route “The Fish” on the South Face of the Marmolada in Italy, completing the 900-meter 5.12c in just under three hours.
Trio of Hard New Routes in the Ruth
5/23/07 – A Japanese threesome has climbed a trio of hard new routes in the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range. Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and Tatsuro Yamada spent 24 days in the Ruth in April and made five attempts on unclimbed lines, three of them successful.
Brits Climb Much-Discussed Face in Alaska
5/22/07 – Gareth Hughes and Vivian Scott made the first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Dan Beard, the 10,260-foot peak that forms the north end of the Ruth Amphitheater in the Alaska Range.
Woods Nabs Second Ascent of Suspension of Disbelief (V13+)
5/21/07 – Daniel Woods nabbed the second ascent of Dave Graham’s Suspension of Disbelief (V13), a techy 18-foot overhanging arête near Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, put up by Dave Graham on November 26, 2005.
Alaskan Testpiece Finally Gets Second Ascent
5/21/07 – Britons Jon Bracey and Andy Houseman have made the second ascent of the French Route on the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter, 23 years after the first ascent.
Before Tragedy: A New Route in China
5/18/07 – When Lara Karena Kellogg died in a rappelling accident in the Alaska Range on April 23, her husband, Chad, could not be notified for several days.
New Routes in Kichatna Spires
5/17/07 – Simon Hitchens, Phil Jefferey, and Mike “Twid” Turner traveled from the U.K. to Alaska’s Kichatna Spires in April and made the first ascents of three long ice gullies.
High Ambitions on K2
5/16/07 – As the hordes once again plod up Mt. Everest’s normal routes this May, an extraordinary season lies just ahead on K2, the world’s second-highest peak.
|Ouellet Redpoints 5.14 Crack Climb
5/15/07 – Crack ace Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet has repeated one of North America’s hardest crack climbs, La Zébrée (5.14a), placing all of his protection except for the first piece on the lead.
New Hampsherites Climb Wild Alaskan Wall
5/11/07 – Peter Doucette, Ben Gilmore, and Freddie Wilkinson have climbed a steep new route up the 4,000-foot South Face of the Fin, a 13,300-foot subpeak on the wild and remote southwest side of Alaska’s Mt. Foraker.
“Alpine” Adventure in Zion Backcountry
5/11/07 – Proving there’s still plenty of adventure to be found in the Lower 48, David Everett and Dan Stih spent three days making the probable first ascent of an extremely remote formation called the Bishoprics in Zion National Park.
Wild Underground Ice Climbing in Sweden
5/08/07 – Where will ice climbers go if climate change destroys the world’s classic ice routes?
Two New Routes in Eastern Tibet
5/07/07 – Britons Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have made the first ascent of Menamcho (6,264 meters) in the Nyainqentanglha East Range of Tibet.
Speed Record on Skye’s Cuillin Ridge
5/07/07 – Taking advantage of an extended spell of excellent weather in the United Kingdom, Es Tressider smashed the record for traversing the Cuillin Ridge on Scotland’s Isle of Skye on May 4.
MacLeod Finishes Scotland’s Hardest Sport Climb
5/03/07 – Dave MacLeod, perhaps the best all-around climber in Great Britain, has completed the hardest sport climb in Scotland, a severely overhanging route called Metalcore at the Anvil.
Bindhammer Redpoints La Rambla (5.15a)
5/03/07 – Germany’s Andreas Bindhammer has repeated La Rambla (9a+/5.15a) at Siurana, Spain, after three weeks of work.
5.13 on Jordanian Sandstone
5/02/07 – A Canadian-American team established an eight-pitch 5.13a in Jordan during the month of March, battling sandstorms, extreme temperature changes, loose rock, and spitting camels to complete their new route.
Teenage Women Climbing 5.14
5/02/07 – Frenchwoman Charlotte Durif has returned from a knee injury to top form, climbing two 5.14a routes very quickly last week.
2007 – Lara Kellogg Killed in Alaska
4/30/07 – Seattle climber Lara-Karena Kellogg, 38, was killed in a rappelling accident while descending Mt. Wake in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge last Monday.
Massive Link-Ups at Red Rocks
4/30/07 – Coloradans Kelly Cordes and Josh Thompson linked three Red Rocks classics in about 22 hours car-to-car.
Red River Outdoors Burns Down
4/26/07 – Red River Outdoors is a restaurant, gear shop, guiding service and cabin rental service in Slade, Kentucky.
5.15 at Age 15?
4/24/07 – Can a 15-year-old climb 5.15? It looks increasingly possible for Adam Ondra, the young Czech who just climbed his second 5.14+ route at age 14.
Not All Roses: Climbing Rapper in Hot Water over Delicate Arch Parody
4/23/07 – The Ohio climber Kris Hampton, best known as the rapper Odub, almost found himself in legal hot water over a rap-song parody concerning the talented free soloist Dean Potter.
The Alps’ 82 Biggest Peaks in 102 Days
4/16/07 – There are 82 peaks over 4,000 meters in the Alps, and during this winter season Slovenian Miha Valic climbed all of them.
Arches National Park Climbing Management Plan: A Chance Make Your Voice Heard
4/13/07 – In a recent press release, Arches National Park Superintendent, Laura Joss, stated that the park will be creating a Climbing Management Plan, which is intended to “consider a full range of alternatives to protect resources, visitors and visitor experience.”
Co-op Donating Up to $350K to Save Skaha
4/12/07 – Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC), the major Canadian outdoor retailer, will donate up to $350,000 CAN to help preserve Skaha Bluffs, the superb crags and unique ecosystem near Penticton, British Columbia.
Anderson Frees Three More Zion Routes
4/10/07 – Air Force Captain Mike Anderson has free-climbed another trio of long climbs in Zion National Park. By far the most prolific recent activist on these massive sandstone walls, Anderson now has done 10 first free ascents in Zion since 2004.
Polish Woman Climbs Third 5.14b
4/06/07 – Which woman has climbed more 5.14b routes than anyone except Josune Bereziartu (who’s in a class of her own)? It’s not Liv Sansoz or Beth Rodden or Martina Cufar.
First Winter Ascent in Tetons
4/06/07 – Teton hardmen Greg Gollins and Hans Johnstone have made the first winter ascent of the North Ridge of Mt. Owen, one of the longest climbing routes in Grand Teton National Park.
AAC Honors Buhler, Chouinard
4/03/07 – The American Alpine Club presented its annual award for outstanding mountaineering achievement, the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, to alpinist Carlos Buhler, at the club’s annual meeting and Mountain Fest in Bend, Oregon.
4/02/07 – A Ukrainian brother and sister won the first Bouldering World Cup of 2007, in Erlangen, Germany.
$18,000 of Climbing Grants Handed Out
3/31/07 – Two American Alpine Club grant programs have selected nine teams for a total of $18,000 in grants, backing expeditions from Greenland to Tibet.
Biggest Desert Spire Free-Climbed
3/27/07 – Fitz Cahall, James Q Martin, and Albert Newman completed the first free ascent of Tooth Rock, a 1,600-foot-high sandstone monolith in the Vermilion Cliffs near Lee’s Ferry, Arizona.
|Solo in Winter on Foraker
3/21/07 – Japan’s Masatoshi Kuriaki summited 17,400-foot Mt. Foraker in the Alaska Range on March 10, completing the first solo winter ascent of the sixth-highest peak in North America.
Mt. Huntington Climbed in Winter
2/20/07 – Jed Brown and Colin Haley made the probable first winter ascent of Mt. Huntington in the Alaska Range, via an extremely fast ascent of the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk route).
European Bouldering Championships
3/19/07 – David Lama and Juliette Danion won the European Bouldering Championship in Birmigham, England, last weekend. Lama, 16, won the European lead-climbing championship last summer and finished second in the 2006 lead-climbing World Cup series.
Two 5.14c Routes in a Day
3/12/07 – Despite a lingering finger injury, David Graham is firing on all cylinders in Spain. Last month, he redpointed two 5.14c routes in a single day at the Spanish crag Terradets, and then, two weeks later, redpointed a 5.14d.
Swiss Make Most of Patagonia Season
3/09/07 – By the end of February 2007, if you had asked any of the international “talent” in Argentinean Patagonia what kind of season it was, they would have said “not so good” or “very unstable” or “too windy and cold.”
Steck Solos Eiger in Under 4 Hours
3/06/07 – Switzerland’s Ueli Steck has soloed the classic 1938 route on the North Face of the Eiger in 3 hours 54 minutes.
Burly New Route in Patagonia
3/05/07 – Americans Ryan Nelson and Crystal Davis-Robbins made the first ascent of the South Face of Aguja de L’S in Patagonia, via one of the steepest lines in the range.
Big Day on Ben Nevis
3/05/07 – Ben Nevis, the capital of Scottish winter climbing, witnessed an explosion of high-end activity late last week, on the final day of the British Mountaineering Council’s International Winter Meet.
Skipping Clips on Cerro Torre
2/21/07 – Americans Zack Smith and Josh Wharton made a bold attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre in Patagonia without using the protection bolts that were power-drilled by Cesare Maestri during his 1970 attempt on the granite needle.
U.S. National Bouldering Championships
2/21/07 – Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio repeated as the U.S. bouldering champions at the ABS 8 National Championship.
Harrington Joins Women of 5.14b Club
2/17/07 – On a quick trip to Sonora, California, Emily Harrington made an ascent of Burning Down the House, a 5.14b established by her coach, Justen Sjong, at the blocky limestone crag of Jailhouse.
American Climbers to Teach Pakistani Women
2/17/07 – A small team of American women will head to Asia this summer to train Pakistani women in mountaineering skills.
New Route on Grand Teton’s North Side
2/13/07 – Hans Johnstone and Stephen Koch have climbed a 1,000-foot new mixed route on the Grand Teton’s lower North Face.
5.12 on Acopan Tepui in Venezuela
2/12/07 – A German-Venezuelan team established a 20-pitch free route up the North Pillar of Acopan Tepui in Venezuela in December.
Favorites Win Ice World Championship
2/07/07 – Evgeny Kryvosheytsev from Ukraine and Jenny Lavarda from Italy won the North Face Ice Climbing World Cup in Switzerland last weekend.
Mugs Stump Award Winners Announced for 2007
2/05/07 – Mugs Stump Award sponsors, Black Diamond Equipment, Patagonia, Climbing Magazine, Mountain Gear, and W.L. Gore, announce the recipients of the 2007 Mugs Stump Award.
Epic New Line on Fitz Roy
2/05/07 – Slovenians Tomaz Jakofcic and Grega Lacen scraped up a major new variation on the North Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, then traversed the mountain in a brutal storm.
Rands Climbs Bishop Highballs
2/03/07 – Lisa Rands sent the high and hard This Side of Paradise (V10), making the fourth ascent of this problem in the Buttermilks, near Bishop, California.
2007 – Climber Chris Hunnicutt dies ice climbing in Provo Canyon
2/01/07 – Chris Hunnicutt, a 32-year-old Salt Lake City climber, lost his life on Tuesday, January 30th while climbing Stairway to Heaven (WI5) in Provo Canyon.
2007 – Washburn Dead at 96
1/11/07 – Bradford Washburn, one of the key figures of American mountaineering in the 20th century, died last night at a retirement home near Boston. He was 96.
Millet’s Mixed Endurance Challenge
1/31/07 – Benoît Dubois won the second Challenge Millet in Québec, leading 26 overhanging mixed climbs in three hours on the scruffy cliffs of Saint-Alban.
New Route in Remote Guyana
1/30/07 – Greg Child, Jared Ogden, and Mark Synnott have climbed a new, mostly free route on the overhanging northern prow of Mt. Roraima in Guyana.
Slovenians Win 2006 Piolet D’Or
1/27/07 – The first ascent of Chomo Lhari’s 6,000-foot Northwest Pillar by Slovenians Boris Lorencic and Marko Prezelj won the 16th Piolet d’Or, the annual prize awarded in France for the year’s “best” alpine climb.
Big Ascent in Antarctica’s Sentinel Range
1/25/07 – For the second time this season, an international team has claimed the first ascent of the highest unclimbed peak in Antarctica’s Sentinel Range.
Two New Routes In Patagonia
1/23/07 – The Canadian-American trio of Chris Brazeau, Crystal Davis-Robbins, and Jon Walsh have climbed two probable new routes on peaks north of the Cerro Torre group in Patagonia.
|54 Colorado 14′ers Skied in 12 Months
1/22/07 – Free skier Chris Davenport has succeeded in an ambitious quest to ski all 54 of the Colorado 14′ers in less than 12 months.
Sea Change at Hueco Tanks?
1/19/07 – Access to Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, the world-class bouldering area outside El Paso, Texas, might be at risk with a proposed transfer of ownership of roughly 20 parks and historical sites in the Lone Star State.
27-Pitch Mexican Route Nearly Onsighted
1/18/07 – Two French teams managed near onsights of Logical Progression, a 27-pitch, 5.13a "sport climb" on northern Mexico’s El Gigante, with Arnaud Petit onsighting all but one pitch over two long days.
Ouray Ice Comp Results
1/17/07 – As a winter storm pounded the southern San Juan Mountains of Colorado, Ukrainian Evgeny Kryvosheytsev won the annual mixed-climbing competition at the 12th Ouray Ice Festival.
Wild British Grit Action
1/16/07 – Finally catching a break in a dreary winter, climbers leaped into action on British gritstone last week, completing two new lines and a very hard repeat.
Major Grant To Protect Alpine Ecosystems Worldwide
1/12/07 – The American Alpine Club and the Mountain Institute have received a $150,000 grant from the Argosy Foundation to launch the Alpine Conservation Partnership (ACP), a program designed to protect and restore alpine ecosystems worldwide.
Huge Wall Climbed in Antarctica
1/12/07 – Almost 13 years after making the first ascent of Ulvetanna, a striking 9,710-foot granite spire in Antarctica, a Norwegian team returned to Queen Maud Land to climb the tower’s vertical North Face.
Hueco Tanks Sending Spree
1/11/07 – It’s mid-season at Hueco Tanks again, and stuff’s getting done. Like last year, the park has seen droves of visitors in 2006/2007 – some of the sport’s leading climbers, like Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Jon Cardwell, and Sean McColl.
New Route on Patagonia’s Poincenot
1/10/07 – New Englanders Dave Sharratt and Freddie Wilkinson climbed a new route up the South Face of Aguja Poincenot, a neighbor of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Major New Link-Up on Cerro Torre
1/09/07 – Americans Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley completed a fast, alpine-style ascent of a much-discussed link-up on Cerro Torre, following the Marsigny-Parkin line to the Col of Hope, then the original 1974 route up the West Ridge to the summit.
South Face of Lhotse in Winter
1/08/07 – A six-member team of Japanese climbers, assisted by a Korean expedition and Sherpa climbers, completed the steep South Face of Lhotse in Nepal but could not reach the summit of the 27,940-foot peak.
Witness the Fitness: Nicole’s Story
1/05/06 – On December 23, Fred Nicole from Switzerland made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Witness the Fitness roof problem in Arkansas.
Close But No Cigar on South Paine
1/04/07 – Britons Stuart McAleese and Mike “Twid” Turner pioneered a route up the unclimbed 3,500-foot South Face of the South Tower of Paine in Chilean Patagonia, but a five-day storm near the top prevented them from climbing easier terrain to the summit.
New Aconcagua Speed Record
1/03/07 – Jorge Egocheaga made a new speed record ascent of Argentina’s Aconcagua (22,841 feet; the tallest peak in the Southern Hemisphere) in seven hours and 52 minutes from Horcones Valley (9,350 feet) to the summit, with a roundtrip time of 14 hours, five minutes, and 54 seconds.
Solo in Winter on Piz Badile
1/03/07 – Italian Fabio Valseschini has made the first solo winter ascent of the Northeast Face of Piz Badile, on the border between Switzerland and Italy.
12/31/06 – The search for American alpinists Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff in the Yunnan Province of China has ended.
Berger Dies in Ice Climbing Accident
12/21/06 – Austrian climber Hari Berger was killed while ice climbing in an ice cave near Hintersee Flachachau, Austria, on Wednesday, December 20, after approximately 150 tons of ice collapsed, burying the Austrian World Champion during training.
Skaha Bluffs Closed
12/19/06 – Skaha Bluffs, near Penticton, in southern British Columbia, is a collection of over 50 gneiss cliffs with over 800 climbs ranging from 30 to 160 feet in length.
Major Rockfall in Sedona, AZ
12/19/06 – Check out the megaton of rockfall that cleaved off of Teapot Rock at Schnebly Hill Road in Sedona, AZ, mid-day on December 12.
Searchers find one of 3 missing climbers on Mount Hood
12/19/06 – Tempestuous Oregon weather calmed enough for search teams to reach the highest parts of Mount Hood on Sunday during their search for three missing climbers.
Regulations Changing in Patagonia
12/19/06 – The following is to inform you and your readers of several changes that have taken effect and will take effect in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massif, in the northern part of Los Glaciares National Park.
Fowler, Boskoff Missing in Tibet
12/18/06 – Charlie Fowler and Chris Boskoff, two of America’s leading alpinists, have gone missing in Tibet’s Genyen region, since November 29 (they were due to return to the United States on December 4).
Climbers Stranded on Mount Hood
12/14/06 – High winds and heavy snow continue to hamper search efforts for three climbers stranded on Oregon’s Mount Hood (11,249 feet).
5.13 Offwidth Bouldering at Vedauwoo
12/13/06 – In early November, before winter’s arctic chill descended upon Wyoming, Justin Edl completed his hardest offwidth problem yet among the huge granite boulders of Vedauwoo: Monsters Incorporated (5.13 or V8-).
First Ascent in Antarctica
12/12/06 – Veteran Antarctic explorer Damien Gildea from Australia and a team of young climbers, including Alaskan Jed Brown, have climbed a virgin summit in a remote range near Mt. Vinson.
|Hard Traverse at Bottom of the World
12/11/06 – A French team made the first traverse of little-known Mt. Ross on the isolated Kerguélen Islands in the southern Indian Ocean.
Graham A Muerte
12/11/06 – On December 7, Dave Graham climbed what is likely the third ascent of Siurana, Spain’s A Muerte (5.14c/d), a route opened in March 2006 by Richard Simpson of the United Kingdom.
Piolet D’Or Candidates Selected
12/08/06 – Five climbing teams have been nominated for the 16th annual Piolet d’Or, the golden ice axe presented to the “best” mountaineering ascent of the year.
Stout New Ice Route in Nepal
12/08/06 – Frenchmen Stéphane Benoist and Frédéric Gottardi have added another extremely difficult ice climb to the North Face of 20,269-foot Kwangde in Nepal.
2006 – Eric Brand: Big-Wall Pioneer
12/05/06 – Eric Brand left us on September 30. He went into the home he shared with his wife Carol in Silver City, New Mexico, lay down on the couch, and never woke up.
Sharma Repeats La Rambla
12/04/06 – One day after the original La Rambla (5.15a) saw its second ascent, Chris Sharma redpointed the endurance-fest in Siurana, Spain, for its third ascent.
Usobiaga 5.14d First Ascent
12/04/06 – Patxi Usobiaga is at it again, this time with the first ascent of Begi Puntuan in the limestone crag of Etxauri, near Pampalona, Spain.
Andrew Earl, The Ace Climber
12/01/06 – Jerry Moffatt’s The Ace (V13) saw its fifth ascent by sleeper climber Andrew Earl on Novermber 29.
Spaniard Climbs La Rambla (5.15a)
12/01/06 – Spain’s Edu Marin has nabbed the second ascent of the original La Rambla (5.15a), right under the noses of several of the world’s best sport climbers, who also have been trying the route.
Ramón Julian on 5.14 Tear
11/29/06 – Barcelona climber Ramón Julián sent eight routes 5.13d or harder in a five day stretch this month, beginning on November 23.
McColl, Harrington Wear North American Crowns
11/28/06 – Sean McColl of Canada and American Emily Harrington, the two most successful North Americans on the international comp scene this year, added the continental sport-climbing championship to their laurels last weekend.
Near Miss in Nyainqentanglha
11/27/06 – Despite “the hardest effort any of us have given in the mountains,” the Anglo-American team of Jim Lowther, Mark Richey, and Mark Wilford came up just short in an attempt on unclimbed Nenang (22,539 feet) in far eastern Tibet.
5.13 Big Walls in Madagascar
11/27/06 – A Czech-Austrian team put up Short Cut (5.13a, 16 pitches) on the big granite walls of southern Madagascar and repeated two other hard free climbs.
Canadian Sending Spree at Indian Creek
11/21/06 – Canadian crack-master Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet drove more than 2,000 miles to Utah from his home in Québec for a two-week vacation, and he still had enough time to bag Indian Creek’s hardest routes.
Ben Moon Sends V14
11/20/06 – On November 18, after a year’s-worth of effort, 40-year-old Ben Moon completed his hardest boulder problem, Voyager with a sit-down start (SDS), in Burbage West in the United Kingdom.
World Cup Finale in Slovenia
11/20/06 – Slovenian Maja Vidmar thrilled the local crowd with a victory in the final lead-climbing World Cup of 2006 in Kranj, Slovenia.
Triple Crown Hopeful Sends Circadian Rhythm
11/16/06 – On November 11, Paul Robinson made a quick ascent of the granite testpiece Circadian Rhythm (V13/14), in Poudre Canyon, near Rustic, Colorado.
10 Climbers Missing in Nepal
11/16/06 – A total of 10 climbers are missing on two Nepalese peaks, and searches are under way. On Tuesday, an avalanche wiped out Camp 3 at around 20,600 feet on 22,349-foot Ama Dablam, sweeping away six climbers from two teams.
New Routes in China’s Genyen Massif
11/15/06 – An American-Canadian team explored the Genyen Massif of China’s Western Sichuan Province in October, and came away with the first ascents of two striking peaks.
New Route, New Roof in Morocco
11/13/06 – A team of North Face climbers established a long 5.12 route in Morocco’s Taghia Cirque and also built a new roof for a school in the remote village below the limestone cliffs.
Youngster Grabs 5.14d Martin Krpan
11/13/06 – On November 11, thirteen-year-old Adam Ondra (from the Czech Republic) has likely made the third ascent of Martin Krpan (5.14d) in Misja Pec, Slovenia, a "quite logical" link-up of four routes.
Scary Half Dome Route Gets Second Free Ascent
11/10/06 – Leo Houlding and Dean Potter have free-climbed the notorious Southern Belle (V 5.12d) on the South Face of Half Dome in Yosemite Valley.
Good Times at Kalymnos RocTrip
11/08/06 – One of the world’s great climbing festivals brought pro athletes from around the globe along with hundreds of other climbers to Greece, as the Petzl RocTrip descended on the island of Kalymnos in late October.
Bibik, Meyer Wear 2006 Bouldering Crowns
11/03/06 – Despite finishing only fourth in the final bouldering World Cup of the year, Russia’s Olga Bibik had enough points after the Moscow comp to win the overall World Cup title for 2006.
Woods Comes to Frogtown
11/04/06 – Daniel Woods made an impressive week-long, whirlwind visit to the Virgin River Gorge where he made an onsight ascent of Hell Comes to Frogtown (5.13d) on October 22, as well as ticking the VRG testpiece Necessary Evil (5.14c) in six attempts over four days, on October 28.
|Beautiful New Routes in Tibet
11/02/06 – Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic capped an extremely successful Slovenian expedition to the Tibet-Bhutan frontier by climbing the spectacular Northwest Pillar of Chomo Lhari (ca. 24,000 feet).
Andreas Bindhammer Makes Second Ascent of Abyss
10/31/06 – On October 26, Andreas Bindhammer made the second ascent of Abyss (5.14d) in Déversé (Gorges du Loup; Nice, France).
Brits Climb Hard Ice Line in Nepal
10/31/06 – Got two weeks and want to put up a new route in Nepal? Try keeping up with Britons Jon Bracey and Nick Bullock, who pulled off a 3,000-foot-plus ice route to an unclimbed summit just nine days after landing at Lukla airport.
Broken Harness Likely Caused Skinner’s Death
10/26/06 – Although an official investigation remains to be completed, it appears increasingly likely that a broken belay loop on Todd Skinner’s harness caused his death.
Todd Skinner Killed in Yosemite
10/24/06 – Todd Skinner, one of the great American free-climbing pioneers of the late 20th century, has been killed on Leaning Tower in Yosemite Valley.
New Route on Meru Shark’s Fin
10/23/06 – A pair of Czech climbers has completed a new route to the summit of 20,700-foot Meru Central (aka the “Shark’s Fin”) in the Garhwal Himalaya of India.
MacLeod Brings Hardest Sport Climb to Scotland
10/20/06 – Scotland saw the ascent of its hardest sport route, on October 10, as Dave McLeod made a first ascent of Body Swerve (5.14b).
Huge All-Free Route in Indian Himalaya
10/20/06 – Britons Tim Emmett and Ian Parnell have climbed a gigantic new route on 22,408-foot Kedar Dome in the Garhwal Himal area of northern India.
Big-Wall Free Climbing in Newfoundland
10/19/06 – In mid-September, Justen Sjong and Chris Weidner established the hardest free route yet on the 1,500-foot granite seacliffs of Devil Bay on the south coast of Newfoundland.
Kinder Sends Causey Testpieces
10/19/06 – Joe Kinder went on a sending spree in a little limestone crag in northern Utah called Causey, 45 minutes outside of Ogden, Utah, sending three 5.14 routes in three days of climbing.
Solo New Routes on 8,000-Meter Peaks
10/18/06 – The Slovenian Pavle Kozjek has climbed a new route on the Southwest Face of 8,201-meter (26,906 feet) Cho Oyu in a solo single push from advanced base camp.
Good Temps, Small Crimps: Emerson sends Freaks of the Industry
10/17/06 – Jamie Emerson grabbed a fall ascent of Rocky Mountain National Park’s (RMNP) hardest boulder problem, Freaks of the Industry, on September 29, after a summer’s-worth of off-and-on effort.
Hansen Sends RMNP’s Bush Pilot
10/17/06 – On September 28, Jody Hansen of Boulder, CO made the second female ascent of Bush Pilot (V11) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Major New Route on Yamnuska
10/17/06 – Will Gadd has completed a seven-year-old project to establish a new free climb up the most daunting buttress on Yamnuska, the Canadian Rockies’ famed adventure crag.
Proof of Progression: Usobiaga Onsights Second 5.14b
10/13/06 – Patxi Usobiaga onsighted his second 5.14b, Pata Negra (Rodellar, Spain), on October 7. This route is a 120-foot, steep, endurance line that was first onsighted by Czech climber Tomás Mrázek in September 2005.
Raudner Enters "Women of 5.14b" Club
10/11/06 – On September 20th, Barbara Raudner made the third ascent of Keitos Palast (5.14b), in Höllental, Austria.
Hardest Route in Frankenjura?
10/09/06 – Markus Bock has just redpointed a new route in Germany’s Frankenjura that he says is the hardest climb he has ever done, according to an email posted on www.moonclimbing.com.
Late-Summer New Route in Tetons
10/06/06 – Stealing a last bit of summer, Bean Bowers, Greg Collins, and Hans Johnstone onsighted a 5.12 new route on the South Buttress of Mt. Moran in Grant Teton National Park on September 29.
Bosley Climbs V14 in New York
10/06/06 – Matt Bosley has added a new start to a V11 boulder problem in southern New York to create what may be the first V14 in the area.
Astroman of the Winds
10/04/06 – A two-season effort in the Cirque of the Towers has produced the hardest reported route in Wyoming’s Wind River Range: a 5.12+ crack and face climb up the steep south face of popular Wolf’s Head peak.
Poles Will Try Nanga Parbat in Winter
9/29/06 – Starting in December, a Polish expedition will launch the country’s fifth attempt to climb 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat in winter.
Fifth Annual HERA – Salt Lake – Recap
9/29/06 – he HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation raised just over $134,000 for ovarian cancer research at their fifth annual Ovarian Cancer Climb for Life in Salt Lake City.
Modern Man: Daniel Woods’ V14 First Ascent
9/28/06 – On September 27, Daniel Woods made the first ascent of Mount Evans’ now hardest boulder problem, Ode to the Modern Man (V14).
Late-Season Firsts on Nameless Tower
9/28/06 – Chasing rumors of stable late-season weather for rock climbing, a Slovenian expedition found plenty of storms but still managed some very notable ascents in Pakistan’s Trango Towers, including the first one-day ascent and first all-female ascent of Nameless Tower.
Hot Summer in the Bugaboos
9/27/06 – The enormous West Face of North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos got its third free route this summer, as Ulysse Richard and Manuel Quiroga free-climbed the Seventh Rifle, the 34-pitch original full-length line on the face, established in 1971 by Chris Jones, Tony Qamar, and Galen Rowell.
|House and Anderson Attempt Kunyang Chish East in Pakistan
9/27/06 – All climbers talk about karma, and when you make an international climbing trip to attempt a virgin peak you hope the good karma comes with.
Sharma Sends Mallorca Arch Project
9/26/06 – “Hey guys, Chris Sharma did his arch project in Mallorca today. He hasn’t named it yet — he’s still in the bar celebrating … ” read the email that filmmaker Josh Lowell wrote Climbing on September 26.
King Traverse in Sierra Nevada
9/22/06 – Pavel Kovar and Misha Logvinov made the first ascent of the northeast ridge of Mount Clarence King (IV+ 5.7), in Kings Canyon National Park, September 15 through 17.
Eiter Onsights Skyline
9/21/06 – Angela Eiter onsighted the long, endurance route, Skyline (5.13d), in Bürs, Austria over a 45-minute attempt.
9/21/06 – How many routes could you lead in 24 hours? Last weekend’s 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell challenged teams of two climbers to find out.
Christian Griffith, V12 at Age 41
9/21/06 – Since sport climbing came to the United States in the 1980s, Christian Griffith has been a household name.
5.14b Girl’s Club Adds Two
9/21/06 – The elite club of women who climb 5.14b or above, just added two new members, Kinga Ociepka, of Poland and Jenny Lavarda, of Italy.
Urubko Crushes Mt. Elbrus Course
9/20/06 – Himalayan veteran Denis Urubko dominated this year’s race up Europe’s highest mountain, 18,513-foot Mt. Elbrus in the Russian Caucasus Range.
Moroni on Point
9/19/06 – Gabriele Moroni, of Novara, Italy, has been on a roll lately, sending several routes in the 5.13b – 5.14b range, including Hawaiian Heroes, in Plan Bernardo, on his second attempt.
Dave Graham Climbs “Massive” V14
9/18/06 – After months of nursing a hand injury, Dave Graham is back in Europe and back to cranking hard. Last week, he completed a 30-move boulder problem in Fionnay, Switzerland, near the residence he has taken up at the resort town of Verbier.
Americans Climb Latok II and V
9/18/06 – Americans Doug Chabot, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson made a rapid, alpine-style ascent of 23,304-foot Latok II in Pakistan via its steep southern buttress.
Huge Canadian North Face Free-Climbed
9/14/06 – Steve Holeczi and Mike Verwey braved an arduous wilderness approach to the North Face of Mt. Geikie, near Canada’s Jasper National Park, and pulled off the first free ascent of the classic Lowe-Hannibal Route (formerly VI 5.10 A3).
Big Free Route in Kyrgyzstan
9/13/06 – A pair of Polish climbers has established a major free route on Ortotubek (aka Central Pyramid) in the Ak-Su Valley of Kyrgyzstan.
New Line Blazed Up Alberta’s North Face
9/12/06 – Chris Brazeau and Jon Walsh blitzed a new route up the mighty North Face of Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies, climbing the 3,300-foot face all-free in a single push on September 7.
Remote New Routes in the Cascades
9/12/06 – Undaunted by some of the most fearsome approaches in the North Cascades, Wayne Wallace climbed two major new routes in August, one with a partner and one all alone.
New Free Route on El Capitan
9/11/06 – On August 30, Ivo Ninov of Bulgaria, and Nico Favresse of Belgium, established Lost in Translation (V 5.12b/c), a new 10-pitch free route on El Capitan.
Yosemite Climber Represents in Peru
9/11/06 – Dave Turner, 25, from Sacramento, California, established and attempted a variety of routes in the mountains outside of Huaraz, Peru in June and July.
Potter in Free Solo Heaven
9/11/06 – Dean Potter continues upping the ante this year, racking up more daring and controversial feats. Last month, Potter achieved his hardest free-solo yet, a beautiful, 40-foot overhanging crack, Heaven (5.12d/13a) in Yosemite Valley.
First Ascents in Peru
9/11/06 – As the summer climbing season winds down in Peru, new-route news is trickling out of the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhuash.
Big New Route in Tien-Shan
9/11/06 – A Russian expedition has climbed the remote Chinese (southern) flank of 22,549-foot Peak of the Army Topographers via its beautiful central buttress.
Spectacular Cat’s Ear Spire Climbed
9/05/06 – Micah Dash and Eric DeCaria made the second ascent of Cat’s Ear Spire (17,585 feet) in the Trango area of Pakistan, climbing a 12-pitch variation to the original route on the stunning rock needle.
Seven-pitch 5.14 in Switzerland
9/05/06 – Matthias Trottmann has completed the latest of Europe’s desperate multipitch free climbs: 6,4 Sekunden (“6.4 Seconds”), a seven-pitch 5.14a on Switzerland’s Fürenwand.
Big, Fast, and Free in the Bugaboos
9/01/06 – Bean Bowers and Dave Nettle made an 11-hour free ascent of the 34-pitch All Along the Watchtower (VI 5.12-) on the West Face of North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos.
The Wrath of Mt. Blanc
8/31/06 – On Thursday, August 24, 21 climbers felt the wrath of Mt. Blanc (15,774 feet), Western Europe’s highest peak. Fortunatley, all escaped alive.
Italian Frees 4-Pitch 5.14+
8/31/06 – The Italian Maurizio “Manolo” Zanolla has free-climbed a four-pitch line in the Dolomites with a crux at the top that he estimates between 5.14b and 5.14d.
|45 Pitches on Shingu Charpa
8/30/06 – Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton experienced an “excellent failure” on the striking North Ridge of 18,373-foot Shingu Charpa in Pakistan, climbing 45 pitches to complete the ridge but failing to reach the true summit.
McColl Wins Twice at Youth Worlds
8/29/06 – Canada’s Sean McColl was a double winner at the Youth World Championships in Imst, Austria, last weekend, taking gold in both lead climbing and speed in his age group.
Images of Bachar Soloing to Benefit John’s Medical Expenses
8/29/06 – Many of you may be aware the John Bachar broke his neck in a tragic vehicle accident recently.
2006 Rockmaster Climbing Comp, Arco, Italy
8/24/06 – This year, as a tradition since 1986, the world-renowned Rockmaster Climbing Comp will take place in Arco, Trentino, from September 1 through 3.
2006 – Acopa President, Steve Karafa, Killed in Car Accident
8/18/06 – On monday, August 14, John Bachar, his girlfriend Anastasia, and Acopa president Steve Karafa were involved in a car accident returning home from the 25th annual Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE PERMANENTLY MOVES TO RECYCLED PAPER
8/16/06 – In an effort to protect and preserve the environment climbers call home, CLIMBING Magazine announced today that it has become the first vertical publication in the world to switch permanently to 100-percent recycled paper…
Pou Brothers Create Multipitch 5.14c
8/16/06 – Basque brothers Eneko and Iker Pou have free-climbed an 850-foot route in Spain with a first pitch graded 5.14c.
2006 – Hueco Pete Passes
8/15/06 – A legendary player in Hueco Tanks State Park passed away on August 2nd, at 66 years of age. Pedro Zavala, Jr., otherwise known as “Hueco Pete,” owned and operated the Hueco Tanks Country Store outside the park until 2000…
Four Killed by Avalanche Near K2 Summit
8/15/06 – Four Russian climbers were swept to their deaths on Sunday just below the summit of 28,251-foot K2, the world’s second-highest peak.
Payne and Pringle Rise at SLC SENDFEST
8/13/06 – Ethan Pringle and Angie Payne won the second annual USAC SENDFEST in Salt Lake City on August 11th at The Front climbing gym , taking home a top prize purse of $1,000 each.
Free Route on the Eiger
8/11/06 – Robert Jasper has made a 12-hour, all-free ascent of a route on the right side of the Eiger’s north face at 5.13-, according to www.desnivel.es.
Berger Adds Ratikon Testpiece
8/09/06 – Better known as an ice and mixed climber, Austria’s Harald Berger is also a master of Alpine mega-sport climbs.
Massive Link-Up in Mt. Whitney Group
8/08/06 – Everyone loves Sierra granite, but few love this much in a day. On August 5, Renan Ozturk and Jake Whitaker linked about 8,000 vertical feet of free climbing around Mt. Whitney during an 18-hour car-to-car outing.
Chabot Emerges from the Depths of the Sea
8/08/06 – Frenchman Alex Chabot redpointed a severely overhung, new 5.14d in Deversé, dubbed Abyss. His route involves no manufacturing, and climbs out a 66-foot, 45- to 70-degree overhanging column.
First Ascent: Gasherbrum East North Face
8/07/06 – A Swiss-led international expedition has climbed a new route up the north side of 25,499-foot Gasherbrum East, along the China-Pakistan border in the Karakoram Range.
Ski Traverse of Neacola Range
8/07/06 – Earlier this year, Joe Stock, Dylan Taylor, and Andrew Wexler made the first full-length traverse of the rugged Neacola Mountains in Alaska’s Lake Clark National Park.
Papert repeats route on North Face of Cima Grande
8/03/06 – Ines Papert of Bavaria, Germany, completed the first female (and third overall) free ascent of the 1,500-foot, 11-pitch Camillotto Pellisier (5.13c/d), the most difficult route on the Cima Grande di Lavaredo, located in the Dolomites, on July 20.
Ukrainians Pick Plum in Karakoram
8/02/06 – A Ukrainian trio has climbed the much-sought north ridge of 18,373-foot Shingu Charpa in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan.
First K2 Ascent in Two Years
7/31/06 – Italians Romano Benet and Nives Meroi summited K2 in Pakistan last week via the Abruzzi Spur, making the first climb of the world’s second-highest peak since 2004.
Zozobra Niagra Glen’s Hardest
7/30/06 – At Niagra Glen, native NY state hitman, 25-year-old Ian Irving, established arguably the hardest line, in Zozobra (V12), on April 30.
Harrington Wins European Invitational
7/26/06 – merican papers were full of the successes of Floyd Landis in the Tour de France and Tiger Woods in the British Open, but there was a third American victory in Europe last weekend: Emily Harrington of Boulder, Colorado, won the annual Serre-Chevalier comp in France, her best result ever in international competition.
Slovaks Climb Huge Ice Line on Uli Biaho
7/26/06 – Slovaks Gabo Čmárik and Jozef “Dodo” Kopold traveled to Pakistan’s Karakoram in early season in search of difficult ice, and they came away with two new routes, including the first ascent of the 7,000-foot northwest face of Uli Biaho.
Alaskan “Eiger” Climbed
7/26/06 – Jed Brown and Colin Haley have climbed an enormous new route on the Eiger-like north face of Mt. Moffit in Alaska.
Reticent Wall in a Single Push
7/26/06 – Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov, and Dean Potter raced up El Capitan’s Reticent Wall (VI 5.7 A5) in 34 hours 57 minutes on July 12-13.
East Face of Eiger Collapsing
7/24/06 – On the evening of July 13, More than 20 million cubic feet of rock came crashing down from the east face of the Eiger (13,025 feet) in Grindelwald, Switzerland.
|Good Show at Chamonix World Cup
7/24/06 – North American climbers just missed the finals at a World Cup sport-climbing comp in Chamonix, France.
Trad Testpiece in North Carolina
7/19/06 – Pat Goodman climbed a desperate trad line in western North Carolina, creating one of the boldest leads in the country.
Spanish 5.15a Repeated
7/18/06 – One of Europe’s hardest sport climbs, Definicion de Resistencia Democrata (9a+/5.15a), has been repeated by Spaniard Tino Lois, according to www.8a.nu.
U.S. Youth Teams Selected
7/13/06 – More than 300 young climbers gathered at ClubSport outside Portland, Oregon, last weekend for the 2006 Youth National Championship, and after it was all over the new U.S. Youth Teams for sport and speed climbing had been named.
Welcome to The Show
7/12/06 – Emily Harrington nabbed the first female ascent of Rifle’s The Seven P.M. Show on June 25th.
Disabled Ascent of Nose in a Day
7/12/06 – Wayne Willoughby, who contracted paralytic polio as a baby and has suffered numerous surgeries and debilitating post polio syndrome ever since, climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 22 hours with Hans Florine and Tico Allulee in late June.
Climbing Grant to Honor McNeill and Nott
7/11/06 – Mountain Hardwear and the American Alpine Club are creating a new climbing grant, the McNeill Nott Award, in honor of Karen McNeill and Sue Nott, who disappeared during an attempt on the Infinite Spur of Mt. Foraker in Alaska last month.
Two New Routes in Peru
7/10/06 – An American trio climbed two new routes in the Cordillera Vilcanota of southern Peru, including a beautiful buttress on 20,046-foot Cayangate.
Mount Saint Helens reopens to climbers
7/7/06 – The nation’s most famous volcano, Mount Saint Helens (8,365 feet), closed due to volcanic activity since Fall 2004, will reopen to climbers in late July.
2006 – Hans Gmoser Dies After Bike Accident
7/7/06 – Legendary Canadian mountaineer Hans Gmoser, 73, died this week after a cycling accident. Gmoser founded Canadian Mountain Holidays, a leading guide service and helicopter skiing operation, in 1957, and he inspired generations of Rockies climbers and skiers.
5.13+ Roof Crack Gets Second Ascent
7/7/06 – Canadian Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet has made the probable second ascent of Fiddler on the Roof (5.13d), a roof crack in Fremont Canyon, Wyoming, nearly 20 years after Steve Petro first climbed the route.
Scandal at Euro Bouldering Champs
7/05/06 – What if you threw an international bouldering competition and didn’t provide decent pads for the landings? At the European Championship in Russia last weekend, the result was no contest.
Ghengis Khan found in the ‘Gunks
7/05/06 – A renewed energy invades the East Coast’s seemingly “tapped-out” ‘Gunks bouldering scene, as Paul Robinson, Andy Salo, Ivan Greene, and Vadim Vinokur establish newer, sicker, harder lines.
Slovenians Bag Coveted Nepalese Peak
6/29/06 – A Slovenian duo has completed the alpine-style first ascent of Janak (ca 23,200 feet) in Nepal via its spectacular southwest pillar.
Trotter Climbs 5.14 Cobra Crack
6/28/06 – Canadian Sonnie Trotter has redpointed the much-tried Cobra Crack at Squamish, B.C., calling it solid 5.14, a strong candidate for the world’s hardest crack climb.
Meyer Locks Up Bouldering World Cup
6/27/06 – Frenchman Jérôme Meyer has cemented the overall victory in the 2006 bouldering World Cup.
Thunderbird Wall Free-Climbed
6/26/06 – Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have made the first free ascent of the Thunderbird Wall route on the North Face of Timbertop Mesa in Zion National Park.
2006 – Nott and McNeill honored
6/21/06 – Climbers and friends gathered on Sunday, June 18, in the Ford Amphitheater in Vail Village to celebrate the life of 36-year-old climber Sue Nott, of Vail, Colorado, recently disappeared with partner Karen McNeill, 37, in the Alaska Range.
New Routes on Foraker, Denali
6/12/06 – Canadian Maxime Turgeon, climbing with two different partners, has put up two new routes in the Alaska Range, including a major new line on Denali’s south face with Louis-Philippe Menard.
Foraker Search Focuses on Tracks
6/06/06 – After analyzing photos taken yesterday, National Park Service rangers have confirmed footprints at about the 16,400-foot level on Mt. Foraker. They have redirected search efforts for missing climbers Karen McNeill and Sue Nott to focus on an area below the south summit of 17,400-foot Foraker.
McNeill and Nott Missing on Foraker
6/05/06 – Karen McNeill and Sue Nott, two of the foremost female alpinists in North America, are missing on 17,400-foot Mt. Foraker in the Alaska Range.
Teva Mountain Games Results
6/05/06 – Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio were the big winners at the two-day, three-event Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado, last weekend.
Kazakhs Climb New Route on Manaslu
6/05/06 – Sergey Samoilov and Denis Urubko of Kazakhstan have climbed a direct new route up the northeast face of Manaslu in Nepal, the world’s eighth-highest peak, in alpine style.
Ramonét Onsights 5.14b
5/31/06 – Spanish climber Ramón (“Ramonét”) Julian Puigblanque has onsighted Suma 0 (8c/5.14b) at Cuenca, Spain, according to www.8a.nu.
Rising Gas Prices Curtail Summer Road Trips
5/31/06 – That venerable Volkswagon bus or the pickup with the sticker-covered shell may be proud symbols of the vagabond elite. But with gas prices soaring, keeping such beasts running could push road-tripping climbers even closer to dirtbag status.
|Big New Route on Andromeda
5/31/06 – Scott Semple and Raphael Slawinski have climbed a difficult new route on the northeast face of 11,319-foot Mt. Andromeda in the Canadian Rockies, left of the classic Andromeda Strain.
Skier Survives 2600-Foot Fall on Denali
5/30/06 – Ed Maginn cartwheeled a vertical half-mile down the Orient Express route on Denali last week but survived with minor injuries.
Major Black Canyon Link-Up
5/30/06 – Josh Wharton has linked two of the Black Canyon’s premier free climbs, leading every pitch of the Free Nose (VI 5.12) on North Chasm View Wall and Tague Your Time (V+ 5.12) on South Chasm View Wall in a single day.
New Routes in the Ruth
5/25/06 – During an Alaskan season in which most climbers have so far come up short, two parties have climbed big new routes in the Ruth Gorge.
Harrington 5th in World Cup
5/23/06 – Colorado’s Emily Harrington, 20, finished fifth in a truncated World Cup lead-climbing comp in Dresden, Germany.
Pringle Just Does It
5/23/06 – Ethan Pringle redpointed Just Do It (5.14b/c) at Smith Rock, Oregon, on May 20.
One-Day Ascent of Native Son
5/19/06 – The amazing Ammon McNeely chalked up his 11th first one-day ascent on El Capitan, climbing Native Son in 23 hours 53 minutes with frequent speed partner Ivo Ninov.
Everest: The Story So Far
5/19/06 – The traditional late-May peak for summit bids is only now upon us, and 29,029-foot Mt. Everest has already seen a full season’s worth of highjinks.
Austrian Woman Climbs 9th 8,000-er
5/17/06 – Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner reached the summit of 28,169-foot Kanchenjunga on Sunday, along with four other climbers, adding a ninth 8,000-meter peak to her list of climbs—more than any other woman in history.
World Cup Bouldering: Midseason Report
5/17/06 – Halfway through the World Cup bouldering season, the men’s competition has become a real dogfight while the women’s crown appears to be headed toward Olga Bibik of Russia.
At Least 7 Dead on Elbrus
5/11/06 – Authorities have found the bodies of seven climbers out of 11 that have been missing since Tuesday near the top of Mt. Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe.
Melloblocco Bouldering Fest
5/10/06 – If you thought the late, lamented Phoenix Bouldering Contest was a big deal, check out the 3rd annual Melloblocco, which went off last weekend high in northern Italy’s Val di Mello.
Speed Record on Elbrus
5/05/06 – Austrian mountaineer Christian Stangl has claimed a new speed record for climbing 18,506-foot Mt. Elbrus, Europe’s highest peak.
Angel Falls All-Free
5/4/06 – An international team has repeated Rainbow Jambaia (31 pitches, 5.13), a bold big-wall free climb beside remote Angel Falls in Venezuela.
Steve House injury update
5/02/06 – A seriously blown finger tendon will shut down most climbers for weeks, if not months. Not Steve House.
Indian Creek Testpieces Repeated
5/02/06 -Two of Indian Creek’s hardest crack climbs got their second ascents in April. Canadian Sonnie Trotter dispatched Learning to Fly on his second try and From Switzerland with Love after “five or six tries.”
Museum Named for Brad Washburn
5/01/06 – The new museum of American mountaineering, slated to open in Golden, Colorado, in the winter of 2007-08, will be named for pioneering mountain photographer and cartographer Bradford Washburn.
1 Dead, 1 Miraculously Lives in Avalanche
4/26/06 – Mount Rainier lead climbing ranger Charlie Borgh, 26, was killed in an avalanche while descending Mount Deltaform in British Columbia last week.
Grand Teton’s East Ridge Skied
4/19/06 – Rick Hunt and Hans Johnstone skied the East Ridge of the Grand Teton on March 24 on their second attempt.
Rands Headpoints Gaia
4/18/06 – Lisa Rands has headpointed the English gritstone classic Gaia (E8 6c), a bold route immortalized in the film Hard Grit.
Bereziartu Onsights 5.14
4/18/06 – Josune Bereziartu has onsighted Hidrofobia (5.14a) at Montsant, Spain. The Basque woman, who has redpointed as hard as 5.14d, had previously onsighted three 5.13d routes.
Sending in Bishop
4/17/06 – Daniel Woods repeated two V14 problems in Bishop, California, during a spring-break trip to the Buttermilks: The Swarm and Mandalion, the sit start to Mandala.
AAC Backs Four Expeditions
4/16/06 – Four teams of climbers have won the American Alpine Club’s Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants for cutting-edge climbing, funding expeditions from Alaska to Uzbekistan.
Rands on Highball Tour
4/13/06 – Lisa Rands made quick work of two classic John Bachar highballs in Joshua Tree, sending So High and Planet X with no toprope rehearsal.
Hardest Trad Pitch in World?
4/10/06 – Several British websites are reporting that Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has completed the direct finish to Requiem at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, a longstanding project that MacLeod expected to go at hard 5.14 with huge runouts.
|Mega Ice Line in Chile
4/07/06 – Harald Berger and Albert Leichtfried, along with photographer Hermann Erber, have pioneered a wildly overhanging ice route at over 4,500 meters in Chile.
Steve House seriously injured
4/06/06 – Steve House, the 2006 winner, along with Vince Anderson, of the prestigious Golden Piton from Climbing and the lesser-known Piolet d’ Or for their alpine-style ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanaga Parbat, seriously injured…
Wild New Route in Rockies
4/05/06 – Jon Walsh and Caroline Ware have climbed a brand-new thin-ice testpiece to the left of the 1987 thin-ice testpiece Riptide (225m, WI 7 R) in the Canadian Rockies.
San Lorenzo North Face
4/04/06 – An Italian team completed the north face of 12,156-foot San Lorenzo, Patagonia’s second-highest peak, in late March.
2006 – Doug Coombs Killed
4/04/06 – Legendary ski mountaineer and Teton climbing guide Doug Coombs was killed yesterday near La Grave, France, along with American Chad VanderHam.
Graham Flashes Two 5.14s
4/03/06 – Dave Graham has flashed two 5.14a routes in a little over a week. According to his scorecard on www.8a.nu, Graham flashed Half Baked and Half Broken at the Wailing Wall, near St. George, Utah, on April 2.
Ski Mountaineering America’s Cup
3/31/06 – The first America’s Cup of ski mountaineering sent racers up and down Jackson Hole resort last weekend in a grueling test of fitness and skiing ability.
Mammut Bouldering Championships
3/29/06 – Daniel Woods and Lizzy Asher won the third and final stop of the Mammut Bouldering Championships, March 24-25 at the New Jersey Rock Gym.
Devil’s Thumb: Epic First Winter Ascent
3/22/06 – A solo first winter ascent of Devil’s Thumb in southeastern Alaska was followed by a hairy helicopter rescue after a crevasse fall during the descent.
Pigeon Spire Winter Ascent
3/21/06 – Sean Isaac and Marc Piche made the first winter ascent of Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos via its north face.
World Cup Bouldering Kicks Off
3/21/06 – The 2005 runners-up in World Cup bouldering came out firing on opening day this season, as France’s Jérôme Meyer and Russia’s Olga Bibik dominated the year’s first comp in Birmingham, England.
Canadian Ice Linkups
3/17/06 – Jon Walsh and Caroline Ware have used the long winter days of March for some big ice linkups in western Canada.
3/16/06 – Curious about where top climbers are headed this summer? Here’s a short list of interesting expeditions planned by well-known North American and British alpinists.
More Fitz Roy Action
3/10/06 – Crystal Davis-Robbins and Jon Walsh climbed the Casarotto Route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia, with Davis-Robbins making the probable first female ascent of the classic pillar.
Ice Climbing Champs Crowned
3/07/06 – Harald Berger of Austria and Ines Papert of Germany are the 2006 Ice Climbing World Cup champions. Berger won the final competition in Hemsedal, Norway, last weekend to seal the victory for the season.
Woods, Harrington Are National Champs
3/07/06 – Daniel Woods and Emily Harrington won the Sterling Rope/USA Climbing Adult National Championship on March 4, giving the two Coloradans the top spots on the 2006 U.S. Adult Difficulty Team.
5.12+ on Fitz Roy
3/02/06 – Americans Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue and Erik Roed have free-climbed Linea di Eleganza on Fitz Roy at 5.12+, onsighting the second ascent of the Patagonian route in a single, team-free push.
Alpine Mega-Mixed Route
3/01/06 – Robert Jasper and Markus Stofer have created a 12-pitch mixed route behind the Staubbachwasserfall in Switzerland, one of the highest waterfalls in the Alps.
Fitz Roy’s Casarotto All-Free
2/28/06 – Bean Bowers and Josh Wharton free-climbed the Casarotto Route on Fitz Roy in Argentinean Patagonia in 16 hours from the bergschrund to the summit.
Muir Repeats Jedi Mind Tricks
2/27/06 – Scott Muir has made the second ascent of Jedi Mind Tricks in Colorado, calling it “by far the hardest route I have ever completed.”
Massive Ice Solo
2/24/06 – American Whit Magro soloed the 700-meter water-ice climb Losar (WI5) in the Khumbu region of Nepal in early February.
U.S. Bouldering Championships
2/22/06 – Hundreds of boulderers jammed The Spot and Boulder Rock Club in Boulder, Colorado, last weekend as the ABS Adult and Youth Bouldering Nationals went down.
2/17/06 – A new route and a couple of superb repeats have been accomplished in Patagonia in the past few weeks. Alexander Huber and Stephan Siegrist climbed a 25-pitch new route up the south face of Aguja Desmochada, reaching the summit at 10 a.m. after a single bivy 800 feet below the top.
AAC Lauds Henry Barber
2/16/06 – The American Alpine Club honored Henry Barber with its Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, the nation’s highest honor for climbing achievement, at the club’s annual meeting and Mountain Fest in Attitash, New Hampshire.
Zion’s Touchstone Free-Climbed
2/15/06 – Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have free-climbed Zion’s classic Touchstone route, using a new variation to the second pitch.
|Anderson, House Win Piolet d’Or
2/15/06 – Vince Anderson and Steve House have won the 15th Piolet d’Or, the annual prize for the year’s top feat in mountaineering.
Steck Solos Extreme Eiger Route
2/08/06 – Over five days in mid-January, Switzerland’s Ueli Steck soloed The Young Spider on the North Face of the Eiger, the second ascent of a route that he established in 2001 with Stephan Siegrist.
Graham: 3 V14s in 3 Weeks
2/07/06 – Dave Graham has repeated El Techo de los Tres B, a desperate boulder problem established last spring by Fred Nicole at Hueco Tanks, Texas.
Americans Busy in Patagonia
2/02/06 – Americans Taki Miyamoto, Dave Sharratt, Paul Turecki and Freddie Wilkinson climbed a new route on the northwest Pillar of Aguja Rafael in Patagonia in late December.
2006 – Lafaille Believed Dead on Makalu
1/31/06 – Jean-Christophe Lafaille, one of France’s greatest modern climbers, is now believed dead high on the slopes of Makalu, where he was attempting the peak’s first winter ascent completely solo.
Massive Cerro Torre Link-Up
1/31/06 – Stephen Koch, Dean Potter and Marko Prezelj forged a massive link-up from the lowest cliff at the base of Cerro Torre’s eastern flank to the summit of the Patagonian spire.
Lafaille Missing on Makalu
1/30/06 – Jean-Christophe Lafaille, attempting to solo Makalu in winter, has not been heard from since Thursday.
Towering New Route in Italy
1/30/06 – Tired of hearing about mixed climbing in scrappy, low-ceilinged caves? Albert Leichtfried has established a more substantial mixed route—a lot more substantial.
Another M13 in Europe
1/27/06 – Markus Bendler has climbed Hell’s Angels Paradise (M13), a severely overhanging mixed routes in the mountains of Tirol in southern Austria.
New Lines on Stanley Headwall
1/24/06 – Local climbers have completed two major new routes on the famed Stanley Headwall, home of such Canadian Rockies testpieces as French Reality and The Day After Les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot.
Ice World Cup Results
1/23/06 – Ines Papert won the first stage of the women’s 2006 Ice Climbing World Cup, while the men’s comp ended in a tie between Harry Berger and Samuel Anthamatten after eight competition routes.
Nicole Adds Hueco Testpiece
1/19/06 – Fred Nicole has climbed yet another desperate boulder problem at Hueco Tanks, Texas.
Two Major Bouldering Comps
1/18/06 – Elite boulderers and amateurs alike gathered in Maryland and Nevada last weekend for two major bouldering competitions.
Ouray Ice Fest Results
1/18/06 – The 11th annual Ouray Ice Festival drew hundreds of ice climbers to the unique ice park in southwestern Colorado, including many of the world’s best, who competed on an overhanging sport-mixed route and a vertical speed pitch.
Libecki Solos Antarctic Spire
1/12/06 – Mike Libecki spent five weeks completely alone in remote Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, and soloed to the top of two big rock formations, including a 1,600-foot needle.
Gadd Creates Mixed Testpiece
1/11/06 – Will Gadd has redpointed Steel Koan, a new route in the Cineplex cave of Alberta, and said it was “the hardest mixed climb I’ve ever done.
Lama Flashes Four 5.14s
1/10/06 – David Lama, a 15-year-old Austrian, has onsighted or flashed four 5.14 routes in Spain, including a flash of El Koala (5.14b) at Santa Linya, according to www.8a.nu.
Climbing at Olympics—Sort Of
1/09/06 – UIAA Climbing will organize bouldering and speed-climbing demonstrations in Bardonecchia, Italy, during the 2006 Winter Olympics.
M13 Repeated Twice
1/04/06 – Game Over, the M13 route in Austria said to be the hardest mixed climb in Europe, has received its second and third ascents, including a repeat by the first ascensionist in a more challenging style.
Woods on Fire at Hueco
1/03/06 – Daniel Woods had an extraordinary high school break at Hueco Tanks, Texas, sending two V14s and two V13s, along with a host of easier problems, during a two-week visit.
Ondra, 12, Climbs 5.14c
1/03/06 – The 12-year-old Czech climber Adam Ondra has redpointed Alien Carnage (8c+/5.14c) at Castillon, France, according to www.nice-climb.com.
Slovenian Woman Climbs 5.14b
12/28/05 – Martina Cufar joined the short list of women who have climbed 8c (5.14b) with an ascent of Vizija, a 35-meter-long route at Misa pec in Slovenia.
Free Route on Zion’s Isaac
12/27/05 – Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have climbed their third big Zion free route of the year, a 12-pitch 5.12d on the giant Isaac formation.
Berthod Climbs Desperate Splitter
12/16/05 – The Swiss ace Didier Berthod established Learning to Fly (5.13+) on the Wingate sandstone of Indian Creek, Utah, in November.
More Willoughby Action
12/14/05 – Flooded by heavy rains in the fall and frozen by recent Arctic fronts, the ice cliffs above Lake Willoughby in Vermont are in the best shape in years and have yielded two more major new routes.
|Wild New Route at Willoughby
12/13/05 – Doug Dillon, Will Mayo and Alden Pellett have climbed a much-watched-but-never-formed ice climb at Lake Willoughby in Vermont.
3 Zion Records in 3 Days
12/12/05 – Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeeley shivered through three productive early-winter days in Zion National Park, setting speed records on three Grade V aid routes.
Core’s Traversing Testpiece
12/07/05 – Italian Christian Core has established one of the world’s hardest bouldering traverses at Varazze in northwestern Italy.
Two Big Routes in Nepal
12/05/05 – Seth Hobby and John Kear made the second ascent of 6186-meter Kyajo Ri via a new route and then made a fast, alpine-style ascent of the Northeast Face of 6440-meter Cholatse in Nepal.
Action in Eldorado
12/01/05 – Eldorado Canyon in Colorado has seen a burst of activity in recent weeks, as locals and visitors established hard new boulder problems and a traditional leading testpiece.
Indian Creek Requires Waste Removal
11/30/05 – The BLM has approved a management plan for Indian Creek, Utah, that will mostly allow climbing and camping to continue in its current unregulated form, while also requiring climbers to clean up after themselves.
Tons of Gear Shipped to Pakistan
11/23/05 – After two days of packing by volunteers and staff at its Colorado headquarters, the American Alpine Club today will ship six tons of winter gear and clothing to Pakistan for victims of the recent devastating earthquake.
Crespi, Eiter Win Final World Cup
11/21/05 – Italy’s Flavio Crespi did what he needed to earn the 2005 World Cup season title, winning the final comp in Kranj, Slovenia, by flashing all three routes.
North Face of Cerro Torre
11/17/05 – Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti, and Ermanno Salvaterra have climbed a new route on the northern side of Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Glowacz, Jasper Complete Murallón
11/17/05 – After three years of effort, Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper have completed their dream of a new route up the main North Face of Cerro Murallón, a daunting summit that rises more than 1000 meters above the Patagonian Ice Cap.
Diamond Couloir Still Climbable
11/17/05 – Global warming may be melting the snows of Kilimanjaro, but the famed Diamond Couloir on Mount Kenya is still climbable, as long as climbers adopt a modern approach.
Tibetan “Matterhorn” Climbed
11/16/05 – Mick Fowler and Chris Watts have made the first ascent of Kajaqiao, a striking 6447-meter peak in eastern Tibet.
Lee Sheftel, 59, Climbs 5.14
11/14/05 – Fifty-nine-year-old Lee Sheftel has redpointed The Whole Shot (5.14a) at the enormous Pipe Dream cave of Maple Canyon, Utah.
Alpine Film Tops Banff Festival
11/7/05 – Sur le fils des 4000,” directed by Gilles Chappaz, is the grand-prize winner at the Banff Mountain Film Festival.
Two New Routes in China
11/2/05 – Americans Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear and Stoney Richards established two long rock routes in the mountains of Sichuan, China, in mid-October.
Access Fund Awards 3rd Round Climbing Preservation Grants
11/1/05 – The Access Fund has awarded $30,900 in its third round of grant funding for 2005 bringing the total for the year to just over $100,000 across 23 grants.
Caldwell Frees Nose and Freerider in a Day
11/1/05 – Two weeks after he free-climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 12 hours, Tommy Caldwell has linked the Nose and Freerider all-free in 23 hours 23 minutes.
Dutchman Takes World Cup
10/31/05 – Emerging star Jorg Verhoeven of the Netherlands won his first World Cup in Valence, France, on Saturday, while defending champ Angela Eiter of Austria resumed her usual place atop the podium.
Schneider, Leary Send Freerider
10/28/05 – Sean Leary and Steve Schneider made a free-ascent of Freerider (VI 5.12d) on El Capitan over three days in early October.
Zion’s Dunn Route Goes Free
10/28/05 – Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem freed the Dunn Route (aka Angel Hair) in the center of Zion National Park’s Angels Landing in a bold one-day push, after working on the crux pitches on two previous days.
Davis frees Salathe Wall
10/27/05 – Steph Davis has become the first woman to free El Cap’s Salathe Wall (VI 5.13b/c).
DNA Validates Messner Claim
10/24/05 – DNA testing has shown that a corpse discovered at the base of Nanga Parbat this summer almost certainly was the body of Günther Messner.
Action Directe: It’s a Trade Route
10/24/05 – After only five ascents in 13 years, Germany’s Action Directe (5.14d) has been redpointed three times in a little over a week.
The Nose – Free in a Day
10/18/05 – Tommy Caldwell has free climbed the Nose of El Capitan in less than 12 hours, taking only one fall on the Changing Corners pitch.
The Serpent in a Day
10/18/05 – Mike Pennings and Josh Wharton have climbed the Black Canyon of the Gunnison testpiece The Serpent (5.11+ R/X, 16 pitches) in 13.5 hours, car-to-car.
|Koyamada Repeats Action Directe
10/17/05 – Dai Koyamada of Japan has repeated Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura, two days after Britain’s Rich Simpson made the landmark route’s sixth ascent.
Caldwell-Rodden Free the Nose
10/17/05 – Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden have completed a free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan.
Rich Simpson Does Action Directe
10/13/05 – Britain’s Rich Simpson, 22, has repeated Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura region.
Emily Harrington Climbs 5.14
10/12/05 – Emily Harrington, runner-up at this summer’s sport-climbing World Championship, has redpointed Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle, Colorado.
Bereziartu Onsights 5.13d
10/06/05 – Josune Bereziartu has onsighted Fuente de Energia (8b/5.13d) at the Spanish crag Vadiello.
“The Nose” of the Grandes Jorasses
10/05/05 – Mauro “Bubu” Bole and Mario Cortese have completed a 38-pitch free climb on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses.
Zangerl’s Hardest Problem Yet
10/04/05 – Bernd Zangerl has climbed a boulder problem high in the Austrian mountains that he says is his hardest yet.
World Cup Bouldering Finale
10/03/05 – Sandrine Levet of France won the World Cup bouldering season title for the fifth time in six years, while Kilian Fischhuber of Austria came from behind to snag the season title at the fourth and final comp in Firminy, France.
5.14 Roof Crack Redpointed
9/29/05 – Didier Berthod has returned to Greenspit, the 5.14a roof crack he climbed two years ago in Italy, and completed a traditional redpoint, placing gear as he climbed.
New Sharma 5.14+
9/28/05 – Chris Sharma has redpointed a new sport route among the giant granite boulders below The Chief in Squamish, B.C., and says it’s “probably 14c or 14d.
Big Free Route in Zion
9/27/05 – Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have freed Golden Years, an eight-pitch 5.12+ on Shuntavi Butte in the Kolob area of Zion National Park.
Free in a Day on North Howser
9/23/05 – Bruce Miller and Chris Weidner of Boulder, Colorado, capped a superb visit to the Bugaboos with a new route on giant North Howser Tower, which they later repeated all-free in a day.
Khan Tengri Alpine-Style
9/20/05 – Russian climbers Pavel Shabalin and Ilyas Tukhvatullin have made the first alpine-style ascent of the North Face of Khan Tengri as a two-man team.
One Fall From El Cap Onsight
9/19/05 – Leo Houlding narrowly missed becoming the first person to lead every pitch of an El Cap free route onsight, taking just one fall on Free Rider.
Free and Trad in the Valley
9/16/05 – Belgian Nicolas Favresse has free-climbed a major new route in Yosemite Valley without any new fixed protection. Favresse, 25, worked for a month on L’Appât (VI 5.13a), the first free route up a big wall about 200 feet right of Yosemite Falls.
Major Route in North Cascades
9/14/05 – Mike Layton and Erik Wolfe made the first ascent of the 2,500-foot East Face of Southeast Mox Peak in North Cascades National Park, considered one of the “last great problems” of the range.
Details Emerge on Rupal Face
9/13/05 – Steve House has sent an email from Pakistan describing his and Vince Anderson’s alpine-style ascent of the central pillar on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, sure to go down as one of the great climbs in modern Himalayan history.
Huge Route on Great Trango
9/9/05 – Slovaks Dodo Kopold and Gabo Čmárik have climbed an enormous new rock route on the southwest side of 20,460-foot Great Trango Tower in Pakistan.
Americans Climb Rupal Face
9/9/05 – Vince Anderson and Steve House have climbed a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, according to www.grivelnorthamerica.com.
32 Pitches in 12 Hours on Trango
9/7/05 – Three U.S. climbers made a 12-hour ascent of the Eternal Flame route on Trango (“Nameless”) Tower in Pakistan, but were kept from the true summit by a fierce snowstorm.
New Routes in Kyrgyzstan
9/7/05 – A team of six British climbers put up three big routes on the granite spires of the Karavashin area of Kyrgyzstan, infamous as the place where Americans Tommy Caldwell, John Dickey, Beth Rodden and Jason Smith were kidnapped by militants in 2000.
Eiter, Ramonet Win Arco
9/6/05 – Angela Eiter of Austria and Ramón Julián (Ramonet) Puigblanque of Spain won the 19th Rock Master competition in Arco, Italy, the most prestigious annual competition in the world.
Carstensz Reopened to Climbers
9/1/05 – Several companies have begun guiding climbers up 16,023-foot Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia, one of the Seven Summits, three years after the mountain was closed to climbing.
World Youth Championship
8/29/05 – Forty-three members of the U.S. Youth Climbing Team journeyed to Beijing, China, to compete on a huge outdoor wall in the Youth World Championship, Aug. 25-28.
New Route in Trango Towers
8/25/05 – A small international team has climbed a major new route on what’s believed to be Trango II (20,758 feet), a peak adjacent to Nameless Tower in Pakistan.
|Messner Mystery Solved?
8/23/05 – Reinhold Messner has identified a body found near the base of the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan as that of his brother, Günther, based on the boots and jacket with the body.
Diamond Climbs French 5.14c
8/23/05 – Shawn Diamond, the 22-year-old who described his long battle with Crohn’s disease in Climbing 242, has redpointed Biographie (8c+/5.14c) at Ceüse, France.
Rodden Redpoints Anaconda
8/17/05 – In early August Beth Rodden-Caldwell repointed Lumpy Ridge’s Anaconda (5.13b/c), her second hardest crack climb to date.
Mammut Sendfest Results
8/17/05 – Chris Sharma easily won the men’s elite competition at the Mammut Sendfest in Salt Lake City, while Tomoko Ogawa of Japan won a closely fought battle among the women.
Mrázek Onsights 5.14b
8/16/05 – Tomás Mrázek, the two-time World Champion of sport climbing from the Czech Republic, has onsighted the route Patra Negra (5.14b) at Rodellar in northern Spain.
Humar Saved By Helicopter
8/12/05 – Tomaz Humar was plucked from his perch on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat by a Pakistani Army helicopter in a dramatic and rare instance of modern “short-haul” rescue at high altitude.
Weather Blocks Humar Rescue
8/09/05 – Two Pakistani helicopters attempted to rescue Tomaz Humar from partway up the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat today, but clouds prevented the choppers from plucking the Slovenian alpinist from the wall or delivering supplies to him.
The Nose Solo in Under 12 Hours
8/09/05 – Hans Florine has broken the record for speed-soloing The Nose on El Capitan, climbing Yosemite’s centerpiece route in 11 hours 41 minutes.
Humar Trapped on Nanga Parbat
8/08/05 – The great Slovenian alpinist Tomaz Humar is pinned on a tiny snow ledge about one-third of the way up the Rupal Face on 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat, and Humar’s support team has called for a helicopter rescue.
Solo New Route on El Cap
8/05/05 – Dave Turner completed a rare solo new route on El Capitan in June. Block Party (VI 5.9 A4) took Turner 18 days on the wall and three days of fixing.
New Route in St. Elias Range
8/4/05 – Britons Paul Schweizer and Simon Yates climbed a new route on the 6,000-foot West Face of Mount Alverstone in the St. Elias Range this spring.
First Ascent on Kichatna Spire
8/03/05 – Chad Kellogg and Joe Puryear bagged a new route on Kichatna Spire in a single-push climb in mid-July, making only the eighth ascent of the Alaskan peak.
Zenyatta Mondatta in a Day
7/29/05 – Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov and Kevin Jaramillo made the first one-day ascent of the hard-aid classic Zenyatta Mondatta at the end of June.
New Route on Broad Peak
7/27/05 – The Kazakh duo of Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov has climbed a new route alpine-style on the Southwest Face of 26,401-foot Broad Peak in Pakistan.
Climbing at the World Games
7/26/05 – American Vadim Vinokur missed a medal at the World Games 2005 by just two handholds, finishing fourth in the quadrennial “alternative Olympics.”
Diamond Sends 5.14c
7/23/05 – Shawn Diamond, who wrote about his longtime battle with Crohn’s disease in the current issue of Climbing (No. 242), has redpointed the hardest route of his life, Hasta La Vista (5.14c) at Mount Charleston in Nevada.
Peruvian Testpiece Completed
7/22/05 – A four-man team has finished off a 20-year-old Jeff Lowe climb in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru—a route Lowe called the most difficult solo ice climb of his distinguished career.
Koreans Traverse Nanga Parbat
7/20/05 – A pair of Korean climbers has completed the first traverse of 26,660-foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan since the Messner brothers’ infamous climb in 1970.
Big New Routes Near Mount Logan
7/15/05 – The Canadian-American team of David Dornian and Joe Josephson seized short breaks from a lousy weather spell in the Mount Logan massif to establish two big Yukon routes in single-push style.
Speedy Free Climbs in Peru
7/15/05 – Brian McMahon and Josh Wharton, stymied by severe rock fall in their bid to climb the North Face of Huascaran Norte, salvaged a trip to Peru with four lightning-fast free climbs in a little over a week on the beautiful granite of La Esfinge (The Sphinx, 17,470 feet).
Chamonix World Cup
7/14/05 – Frenchman Alex Chabot seems to be back in form: After making the podium only once so far this season, Chabot placed third in the World Championships two weeks ago and this week won a World Cup in Chamonix, France, the first victory since last October for the three-time World Cup champion.
Solo on Cholatse and Tawoche
7/13/05 – Twenty-nine-year-old Ueli Steck from Switzerland exported the “enchainment” concept from the Alps to the Himalaya this spring, attempting to solo three difficult north faces in the Everest region.
Cobra Pillar Free-Climbed
7/12/05 – Coloradans Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden free-climbed the East Face of Mount Barrille in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, via the classic Cobra Pillar.
House and Prezelj in Peru
7/11/05 – Steve House and Marko Prezelj made good work of a three-week trip to Peru, with a new route on 18,770-foot Cayesh and a quick repeat on 19,127-foot Taulliraju.
U.S. Youth Team Selected
7/11/05 – More than 400 youth and adult climbers competed in the USA Climbing 2005 National Championship at Metrorock in Everest, Mass., and the top four young Americans in each age category were named to the U.S. Youth Team.
|Hill Frees Leaning Tower
7/11/05 – Lynn Hill made a one-day free ascent of the West Face of Leaning Tower in Yosemite while her partner, Katie Brown, freed the climb’s crux pitches over a couple of days.
Bouldering World Championships
7/06/05 – July 5 was a day for upsets at the World Championships of bouldering in Munich, Germany, as the 37-year-old veteran Salavat Rakhmetov of Russia stole the show.
Harrington 2nd in World Champs
7/05/05 – Emily Harrington pulled off the greatest climb of her life to take second at the biannual World Championships of lead climbing in Munich, Germany.
“Idiot Peak” in Alaska
6/29/05 – Chris Thomas and Will Mayo made the first ascent of the 10,700-foot subpeak to the right of Mount Huntington’s southwestern face.
Eiter Rules World Cups
6/28/05 – The young Austrian Angela Eiter won her fifth World Cup comp in a row in Zurich, Switzerland, on June 25.
Spaceshot Goes Free
6/28/05 – Brothers Mike and Mark Anderson free climbed the classic Zion aid route Spaceshot at 5.13a, following several variations to the standard eight-pitch climb.
Second Ascent on Hunter
6/22/05 – Samuel Johnson of Alaska and Freddie Wilkinson of New Hampshire made the second ascent of Mount Hunter’s Diamond Arête on the 20th anniversary of the Alaskan classic’s first ascent.
Asher in Finals at World Cup
6/20/05 – American Lizzy Asher made the finals of last weekend’s bouldering World Cup in Fiera di Primiero, Italy, finishing eighth overall.
New Route on Denali
6/17/05 – Valery Babanov and Raphael Slawinski have climbed a new route on Denali in single-push style.
North Face of Mount Bradley
6/16/05 – Canadians Louis-Philippe Ménard and Maxime Turgeon capped a terrific visit to the Alaska Range with an alpine-style first ascent of the North Face of Mount Bradley.
New Route on Huntington
6/15/05 – Jack Tackle and Fabrizio Zangrilli climbed a new route on the Southwest Face of Mount Huntington in the Alaska Range, completing the 4,000-foot line alpine-style in a three-day round trip.
6/14/05 – Colorado ultrarunners Peter Bakwin and Buzz Burrell have linked Mount Rainier, Mount Adams and Mount Hood in 28 hours of climbing and driving.
Hinkes Climbs Final 8,000’er
6/14/05 – Briton Alan Hinkes has summited 28,172-foot Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world and the final peak in his quest to climb all 14 8,000-meter summits.
Teva Mountain Games 2005
6/08/05 – It was a powder day in Vail on Saturday and for once that wasn’t a good thing.
2005 – Biskit Passes On
5/31/05 – A week ago, Biskit, the beloved climbing dog went missing in Gold Hill, Colorado and never returned.
World Cup 2005 Results
5/31/05 – The third UIAA/ ICC World Cup Event of 2005 took place this past weekend in Imst, Austria, where Angela Eiter of Austria and Flavio Crespi of Italy climbed into first place.
Helicopter Lands on Everest
5/26/05 – Put away the crampons and oxygen bottles, you can reach the top of Mount Everest via Helicopter.
Two Himalayan First Ascents
5/23/05 – A French expedition has made the first ascent of two 7,000-meter peaks in the Himalaya: the north and central summits of Chomo-Lonzo.
8,000-Meter Chase Turns Deadly
5/20/05 – Less than a week after Ed Viesturs summited Annapurna to become the first American to climb all 14 of the worldís 8,000-meter peaks, the same mountain dealt a reminder of just how dangerous this game can be.
New Hallucinogen Speed Record
5/17/05 – Inspired by the recent first one-day ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall in Colorados Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden smashed the speed record for the route.
Jimmy Chin Wins Rowell Award
5/17/05 – Climbing photographer Jimmy Chin has won the inaugural Rowell Award for the Art of Adventure.
Viesturs Makes it 14
5/12/05 – Ed Viesturs has completed his 16-year quest to be the first American to climb all 14 of the worlds 8,000-meter peaks.
Josune Climbs Possible 5.15
5/11/05 – The world’s best female rock climber, Josune Bereziartu, posted to www.8a.nu that she has made the second ascent of Bimbaluna at St. Loup, Switzerland, a possible 5.15.
14-Year-Old Redpoints 14b/c
5/10/05 – David Lama, age 14, has redpointed Reini’s Vibes at Massone in Arco, Italy, a route considered “easy” 5.14c, according to www.8a.nu.
New Route on Kichatna Spire
5/10/05 – Sean Isaac, Rob Owens and Roger Strong pioneered a 2,300-foot mixed route on the Northwest Face of Alaska’s Kichatna Spire on May 1.
|2005 – Jim Ratz Killed in Fall
5/06/05 – Climber, mountain guide, educator and activist Jim Ratz was killed May 4 in a fall in Sinks Canyon, near his home in Lander, Wyoming.
Pou Flashes 5.14b
5/05/05 – Iker Pou Azkarrga, the Basque climber who has done everything from V14 boulder problems to 5.14 free walls, is now the third climber to flash an 8c (5.14b) rock climb.
Secor Recovering From Severe Fall
5/04/05 – Author and mountaineer R.J. Secor was severely injured in mid-April when he lost control of a glissade on Mount San Antonio (aka Mount Baldy) in Southern California’s San Gabriel Mountains.
Vinokur Fifth in Belgium
5/02/05 – Could this be Vadim Vinokur’s year? Brooklyn’sfinest climber pulled off the best World Cup of his career, taking fifth in Flanders, Belgium, on April 30.
Three Expeditions Win Large Grants
5/02/05 – Three teams of young climbers have won Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants from the American Alpine Club totaling $12,000, plus gear from MSR, Therm-a-Rest and Platypus.
Mount Cleveland in Winter
4/29/05 – After years of attempts, two brothers succeeded on the probable first winter ascent of Glacier National Park’s highest peak.
Another V16 for Koyamada?
4/28/05 – The Japanese Dai Koyamada has established another long boulder problem that may be harder than V15, according to www.8a.nu.
Hallucinogen in a Day
4/27/05 – Alan Doak and Stefan Griebel completed a one-day ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+), Colorado’s premier aid route, on April 23.
Crespi, Eiter Win 1st World Cup
4/25/05 – Italian Flavio Crespi won the first lead-climbing World Cup of 2005, in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria.
31 Pitches, 5.13, No Bolts for Pro
4/25/05 – A multinational team has free-climbed the El Capitan-sized wall to the left of Angel Falls in Venezuela, using no bolts for protection.
New Route on Andromeda
4/22/05 – The budding partnership of Valeri Babanov and Raphael Slawinski has completed yet another winter-conditions route on a classic face of the Canadian Rockies.
1.4 Miles of Climbing
4/20/05 – A trio of desert adventurers has established one of the longest girdle traverses in North America: the 1.4-mile traverse of the Great White Wall in Utah.
Andrada Ticks Second Possible 5.15
4/18/05 – Maximizing the last days of spring before hot weather settles on northern Spain, Dani Andrada has redpointed his second possible 5.15 in a single month.
Graham Ticks Classic 5.14+
4/15/05 – Turning his attention from bouldering to routes as the weather warms, Dave Graham, our man in Europe, has done a pair of desperate climbs, including the classic Bain de Sang (9a/5.14d).
Zangerl Repeats Two Hueco V14s
4/13/05 – Austrian Bernd Zangerl spent a month at Hueco Tanks this winter and repeated two of the park’s V14 boulder problems.
French Dominate Moscow Comp
4/11/05 – Sandrine Levet won her second World Cup in a row while Jérôme Meyer narrowly won the men’s crown for a French sweep of the Moscow Bouldering World Cup.
Nicole Adds Two Hueco Testpieces
4/07/05 – The great Swiss boulderer Fred Nicole, who has established most of the cutting-edge problems at Hueco Tanks, completed two more desperates in a late-winter visit.
3/30/05 – Chris Sharma, said to be in the best shape of his life, established his hardest boulder problem yet in Arkansas’ Ozark Mountains.
Pure Power in Campusing Comp
4/05/05 – Climbers from all over Europe tested the limits of their power at the No Foot Contest VI in Strasbourg, France.
13-Year-Old Climbs 13d/14a
4/04/05 – Thirteen-year-old Matt Fultz has redpointed Black Out (5.13d/5.14a) in Logan Canyon, Utah.
Finger of Fate Goes Free
3/25/05 – Britons Ben Bransby and Pete Robins have freed the classic Finger of Fate route on Utah’s Titan, according to www.ukclimbing.com.
Wasatch Powder Keg
3/23/05 – Euros dominate the third annual Black Diamond Wasatch Powder Keg,the only Ski Mountaineering World Cup on U.S. soil.
Solo on Cerro Torre
3/23/05 – Aaron Martin had a remarkable season in Patagonia, leading an ascent of Fitz Roy and making a rare solo ascent of Cerro Torre.
New V15 for Dave Graham
3/22/05 – Dave Graham has climbed another possible 8c (V15) boulder problem, according to www.8a.nu.
Female Dyno Record Broken
3/22/05 – Austrian Nina Arch extended the womens dyno record by nearly 10 inches at a competition in Britain.
|Brit Wins First World Cup
3/21/05 – Hometown hero Mark Croxall of the U.K. narrowly won the first Bouldering World Cup of 2005 in Birmingham, England.
Powers to Head AAC
3/17/05 – Phil Powers, a longtime mountain guide who has climbed everything from K2 to 5.13 sport routes, has been named Executive Director of the American Alpine Club.
Phi Phi Relief Effort Growing
3/16/05 – The islands of Koh Phi Phi, site of the first rock climbing in Thailand, were devastated in the December 26 tsunami yet received relatively little attention from climbers compared with better-known Railay Beach, which was spared the worst of the destruction.
Andrada’s New-Route Spree
3/14/05 – The Spanish star Dani Andrada is showing the best shape of his life: Since the start of the year, he has completed seven new routes of 5.14c or harder, including one possible 5.15a.
Wild Times in Patagonia
3/14/05 – The husband-and-wife team of Dean Potter and Steph Davis climbed several peaks in Patagonia, including a one-day ascent of the mighty Torre Egger, and Potter made the first BASE jump in the range.
Ralston Finishes Winter 14’ers
3/14/05 – Aron Ralston, the Colorado man who had to amputate his own arm below the elbow after a canyoneering accident, has completed a seven-year project to solo the Colorado 14’ers in winter.
Caldwell Injured in Ground Fall
3/11/05 – Tommy Caldwell, America’s best all-around rock climber, dislocated his elbow and broke his wrist in a ground fall at Indian Creek, Utah.
U.S. Climbing Team Chosen
3/08/05 – The 2005 U.S. Climbing Team for difficulty (roped) and speed climbing was selected March 5-6 at the USA Climbing Nationals, presented by Sterling Rope and Stone Age Climbing.
Wilford Honored by AAC
3/08/05 – Mark Wilford, a leading American rock climber and alpinist for more than two decades, received the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award for outstanding climbing achievement at the American Alpine Club’s annual meeting on March 5.
Mount Alberta in Winter
3/7/05 – Scott Semple, Raphael Slawinski, and Eamonn Walsh made the first winter ascent of 11,873-foot Mount Alberta in the Canadian Rockies.
“Sit Start” to Cerro Torre
3/03/05 – As if Cerro Torre weren’t hard enough to climb already, the Slovenian duo of Andrej Grmovsek and Silvo Karo added a long, indirect start to the Compressor Route on the mountain.
Stuart’s North Ridge in Winter
3/01/05 – Taking full advantage of fine conditions, Mark Bunker and Colin Haley did the first winter ascent of the complete North Ridge of Mount Stuart in Washington state.
Jannu Wins Piolet d’Or
2/28/05 – The Russian expedition that climbed the North Face of Jannu in Nepal has won the Piolet d’Or, the golden ice axe that is awarded annually in France for the top mountaineering ascent of the year.
Trad M10 in Scotland
2/25/05 – Dave MacLeod has climbed The Hurting, a summertime E4 6a (hard 5.11) on Cairngorm, creating Scotlands first Grade XI route. The Scottish XI 11 grade translates roughly to M9+ or M10 climbing with groundfall potential.
Youth Bouldering Team Chosen
2/23/05 – At the finals of the USA Climbing Youth Bouldering National Championship, the top four climbers in each age group were selected for the 2005 Youth Bouldering National Team.
Woods, Menlove Win National
2/22/05 – Daniel Woods from Colorado and Portia Menlove from Utah won the American Bouldering Series National at The Spot Gym in Boulder, Colorado.
Verve for City Council
2/18/05 – Christian Griffith, one of the best climbers ever produced by Boulder, Colorado, has jumped into politics in a bid to protect his hometown’s climbing, bouldering, and other mountain sports.
Women’s Team Climbs Cerro Torre
2/18/05 – Two Slovenian women, Monika Kambic Mali and Tanja Grmovsek, have made the first all-female ascent of Cerro Torre, via the Compressor Route.
Four Classics in Three States
2/15/05 – Will Mayo led a tri-state romp across the Northeast’s best ice, bagging four classics in a single long day of climbing and driving.
Mugs Stump Climbing Award Winners for 2005
2/15/05 – The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing award is given each year to support small teams with climbing objectives that exemplify fast, light, and clean alpinism.
Storms Destroy Bouldering Paradise
2/10/05 – The torrential winter rains in Southern California have washed away one of the nation’s best boulder gardens: the Tar Creek, a.k.a. Swimming Hole, bouldering area.
Judge Upholds Cave Rock Ban
2/10/05 – A federal judge has rejected an Access Fund lawsuit that sought to overturn a Forest Service ban of climbing at Cave Rock, Nevada.
Alcatraz Gets Quick Repeats
2/09/05 – The new mixed route Alcatraz in Glenwood Canyon, Colorado, touted as a possible M14, was repeated by Will Gadd and Ryan Nelson in early February.
2005 – Eiger Pioneer Heckmair Dies
2/07/05 – Anderl Heckmair, who led the first ascent of the great North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, died last week at age 98.
Ice “Bouldering” Worlds
2/07/05 – Ines Papert from Germany and Harald Berger of Austria won the European and World Championship of “Ice Boulder” in Valle di Daone, Italy.
|54 Fourteeners in Winter
1/31/05 – Twenty-eight-year-old Hamish Gowans has climbed 21 Colorado fourteeners in the first month and a day of this winter, making steady progress in a bid to solo all 54 of the Colorado fourteeners in a single calendar winter.
Possible M14 in Colorado
1/28/05 – Rich Purnell has redpointed an enormous cave route in Glenwood Canyon, Colorado, and labeled the climb Alcatraz (M14).
Ice World Championships
1/25/05 – With no World Cup ice climbing series this year, last weekend’s World Championships in Saas-Fee was by default the biggest European competition of the season.
Papert Takes Ouray Crown
1/20/05 – German Ines Papert was the overwall winner in the difficulty competition at the 2005 Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado, the first time a woman has taken top prize at the event.
Graham’s Hardest Yet
1/20/05 – Dave Graham has completed a boulder problem in Switzerland that he says is his hardest yet — and may be the hardest in the world.
Moon Rises Again
1/19/04 – Still at it 15 years after he rose to the top of the climbing world, Ben Moon has made the third ascent of The Ace, a V13 gritstone boulder problem at Stanage, England.
New Routes in Rockies
1/18/04 – November and December brought some of the best ice conditions in recent memory to the Canadian Rockies, and locals seized the day with repeats of well-formed testpieces and some superb new routes.
Winter Climb of Shishapangma
1/18/05 – Here’s one for the history books: The Tibetan giant Shishapangma (8,027 meters) has received its second “first winter ascent” of the season.
Barnes Lights up Hueco
1/13/05 – The 21-year-old Californian Natasha Barnes is emerging as one of the world’s best female boulderers, with sterling trips to Hueco Tanks, Texas, and Bishop, California, this winter.
Chamonix Testpiece Gets Free Ascent
1/11/05 – A British pair has made the third ascent, and possible first free ascent, of the decade-old testpiece Omega on France’s Petit Jorasses.
Rally for Railay Fund
1/07/04 – Michelle Garbert and Barb Clemes, in conjunction with Sam Lightner, have arranged two fund-raisers for the most needy locals of Thailand’s Railay Bay, Ao Nang, and PhiPhi Island, whose homes, clothing, boats, livelihoods, relatives and friends were lost in the tsunami.
Vermont Crag Saved
1/07/05 – A climbers’ group in Vermont has purchased the Bolton Quarry, a popular resource for both ice and rock climbing near Burlington.
The Game Reloaded
1/03/05 – Turning words into action, Will Gadd has repeated what’s likely the world’s hardest mixed climb, The Game (M13) at Alberta’s Cineplex crag, without the long heel spurs that have been used extensively on recent mixed testpieces.
11-Year-Old Climbs 14b
1/04/05 – Eleven-year-old Adam Ondra sent 2004 out with a bang by redpointing Mascherina (8c/5.14b) at Grotta dell’Aeronata, a limestone cave near Sperlonga, Italy.
Climber helps tsunami victims in Thailand
12/30/04 – Sam Lightner is on his way to Thailand and beginning New Year’s Eve, or as soon as he arrives, will be making his home there available as a base for parents looking for their kids or other emergency tasks.
Sharma Climbs V14, Makes GQ
12/20/04 – Chris Sharma has made the third ascent of the Fred Nicole boulder problem Esperanza (V14) at Hueco Tanks and been named one of the “Amazing Bodies of the Year” by GQ magazine.
Indian Creek Testpiece
12/17/04 – Swiss climber Didier Berthod, who last year climbed a 5.14a roof crack in Italy, redpointed perhaps the hardest route in Indian Creek, Utah, during a long visit this fall.
Angels Landing Free-Climbed
12/17/04 – Mike Anderson has freed the classic Lowe Route on Angels Landing in Zion National Park, creating Zion’s most sustained hard free route.
Jenerik Boulders Her Age
12/14/04 – On December 10 Cicada Jenerik sent Lowrider (V10), the extension to Cholos (V9), at the Happy Boulders in Bishop, California, becoming the first person to “boulder her age” — V10 at age 10.
Bouldering Triple Crown
12/14/04 – The Triple Crown, a three-event bouldering series at some of the Southeast’s best bouldering areas, concluded Dec. 4 with a competition at Little Rock City, outside Chattanooga, Tenn.
Solo on Shisha Pangma
12/13/04 – Jean-Christophe Lafaille topped out on Shisha Pangma via the South Face on Dec. 11, a solo ascent without supplementary oxygen that will provide plenty of fodder for debate over the meaning of a “winter ascent.”
North American Championships
12/09/04 – Vadim Vinokur and Emily Harrington won the difficulty comp at the North American Championships in Mexico City over Thanksgiving weekend, and Patrick Cassiday and Alex Johnson were the top speed climbers.
Rockies Testpiece Gets 2nd Ascent
12/08/04 – Scott Semple, Greg Thaczuk, and Eamonn Walsh completed the second ascent of Striving for the Moon (VI WI6) on the East Face of Mount Temple in the Canadian Rockies.
Congress Extends “Fee Demo”
12/07/04 – The U.S. Congress has passed a law that will extend the “Fee Demo” program on public lands for at least a decade, making it likely that $5 daily fees will be charged at hundreds of trailheads on National Forest and BLM lands.
|$15K Adventure Grant Announced
12/07/04 – A new award could provide big bucks to a climber who benefits the mountain world through his or her experiences.
Josune Bereziartu Does Another 5.14+
12/02/04 – The Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu has redpointed her second 9a (5.14d), Logical Progression in Joyama, Japan.
New Route on Mont Blanc
11/29/04 – With various partners, John Harlin III completed a lifelong dream to climb a new route on Mont Blanc’s storied south face in Italy.
Five 14a Onsights in a Year
11/29/04 – Remember when a 5.14a onsight was the ultimate tick? Now, less than a decade later, Patxi Usobiaga of Spain has demonstrated just how far elite climbing has progressed, by making his fifth 5.14a onsight in a single year.
Woods Boulders V14
11/24/04 – Fifteen-year-old Daniel Woods has sent Circadian Rhythm (V14), a Dave Graham problem in the granite 420′s Boulders of Poudre Canyon, Colorado.
World Cup’s Dramatic Finale
11/22/04 – When the pressure was on, Angela Eiter of Austria and Tomas Mrazek of the Czech Republic never flinched in a dramatic conclusion to the 2004 World Cup.
World Dyno Record Broken
11/19/04 – Stefan Hadfield has broken the world dyno record by leaping 2.7 meters, or nearly 9 feet, from hold to hold. Hadfield made his body-length-and-a-half jump in Auckland, besting the old mark by 10 centimeters.
New Route on Cerro Torre
11/17/04 – The Italian Ermanno Salvaterra has led a team of three up the East Face of Cerro Torre via a new route, his latest conquest in a 20-year affair with Patagonia
World Cup Down to the Wire
11/15/04 – Nearing the end of an up-and-down season in which two young upstarts are threatening to unseat the defending World Cup champions, the final competition of 2004 next weekend promises to be a cliffhanger.
New 5.14d for Fred Rouhling
The French climber Fred Rouhling, profiled in Climbing #232, has completed his fourth new route rated 5.14d or harder.
Denali Raises Peak Fee
11/09/04 – Denali National Park has raised the special-use fee for climbers on Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker to $200, effective for the 2005 season.
37-Year-Old Film Wins at Banff
11/08/04 – A long-forgotten Polish film made in 1967 won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. Odwrót (“Retreat”) recreates an anonymous climber’s epic solo descent after a mountaineering accident.
Banff Book Awards
11/05/04 – A survival story, a history of North American climbing, and an ice-climbing instruction manual were among the prize winners announced Nov. 4 at the 11th annual Banff Mountain Book Festival.
Woman Convicted of Murder, Heads to Prison
11/3/04 – The woman who killed climber Jack Mileski in 1997 has been convicted of first-degree murder and sentenced to life in prison.
Sarkany Back on Top
11/02/03 – With only two World Cup competitions remaining in the 2004 season, Belgium’s Muriel Sarkany has regained the lead in the overall standings with a superb victory in Valence, France.
Rodden Frees 5.14b
11/01/04 – Beth Rodden has made the first free ascent of an old aid pitch at Smith Rock, Oregon, and rated it 5.14b.
New Route in Nepal
11/01/04 – Britons Nick Bullock and Nick Carter made the first ascent of the 5,250-foot Northwest Face of Nepal’s Tengkang Poche (21,325 feet) in a three-day, alpine-style roundtrip.
Asher Shines in World Cup
10/29/04 – American Lizzy Asher has proved she can compete on a world level in lead climbing as well as in bouldering.
Jail Time for Wall Operator
10/22/04 – Marcus Floyd, the Missouri man charged with involuntary manslaughter after his portable climbing wall failed and a woman was killed, pled guilty to a lesser charge and will serve a short jail sentence.
5.14 Crack Climbed in Québec
10/21/04 – One of the hardest crack climbs in North America has been pinkpointed after three years of attempts by the Québecois Jean-Francois “Jeff” Beaulieu.
Nice Ice on Grand’s North Face
10/20/04 – Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton.
9-Pitch Speed Climbing
10/15/04 – A nine-pitch, fully bolted, 5.10a climb in Colorado’s Royal Gorge was the scene of a high-stakes big-wall sport-climbing race in the 2004 Go Fast Games.
New Route on Indian Giant
10/14/04 – The Anglo-American team of Ian Parnell and John Varco made the first ascent of the Northwest Face of 22,674-foot Saf Minal in the Garhwal Himalaya of India.
New Routes in Greenland
10/14/04 – A Swiss-German expedition to the southern tip of Greenland in late summer yielded nine new routes, almost all of them free, on beautiful granite walls.
Rands Climbs E8 in Britain
10/13/04 – American Lisa Rands has climbed End of the Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar Edge in England, perhaps the boldest single-pitch rock climb yet by a woman.
10/07/04 – French climber Julien Nadiras has repeated Tonino ’78, the V16 boulder problem established in January by Mauro Calibani.
Yuji Onsights 5.14b
10/07/04 – Yuji Hirayama has onsighted the route White Zombie (5.14b) at Baltzola in Spain’s Basque country.
Vinokur 12th in China
10/4/04 – American Vadim Vinokur earned 12th place at a World Cup climbing comp in Shanghai, China, for his best finish so far this season. Vinokur is now ranked 15th in the 2004 season.
French Take Bouldering Crowns
10/01/04 – Sandrine Levet and Daniel Du Lac of France are the 2004 bouldering World Cup champions. Levet closed out her season in style, taking the final World Cup comp of the year in steamy heat in Houzou, China.
Three Black Routes in a Day
9/31/04 – Undeterred by autumn’s shorter days, Thad Friday and Josh Wharton climbed three full-length routes in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in Colorado in under 21 hours.
Aconcagua by Bike, Boat and Foot
9/28/04 – Erden Eruc is about to leave Seattle to climb Aconcagua, but he won’t reach the 22,841-foot summit for over a year.
2004 – Pete Schoening Dies
9/23/04 – Pete Schoening, one of the greatest climbers from the golden age of expeditionary mountaineering in the 1950s, died this week. He was 77.
Quick Success in Patagonia
9/22/04 – Sean Isaac and Will Mayo made a winter ascent of Guillaumet in the Fitz Roy region of Patagonia, notable mainly for the speed of the outing.
Vinokur, Pringle in World Cup
9/22/04 – Perennial contender Vadim Vinokur from New York and first-time World Cup competitor Ethan Pringle from California both made strong showings at the Marbella, Spain, stop on the circuit September 18-19.
Two 5.14 Flashes in a Day
9/21/04 – Proving you don’t have to be a teenager to remain at the top of the sport, Serik Kazbekov, 34, had an amazing day at Covolo, Italy, last week.
Everest Speed Record Upheld
9/17/04 – The Nepalese government has endorsed a new speed record for climbing Mount Everest’s 11,335-vertical-foot South Col route from basecamp: 8 hours 10 minutes, set by Pemba Dorjee Sherpa on May 21.
New Route in Rockies
9/17/04 – Dave Marra, Dana Ruddy, and Tom Schnugg pioneered the Northwest Face of Mount Belanger in the Canadian Rockies this summer, via a moderately difficult 2,000-foot ice chute.
9/15/04 – Last weekend’s World Youth Championship victory for Charlotte Durif, who just turned 14 in mid-August, came as no surprise to those who have witnessed the young Frenchwoman’s meteoric rise through the grades.
World Youth Championships
9/14/04 – Sean McColl of Canada won his third world title in difficulty, Daniel Woods of Colorado finished third in his age category, and American Alex Johnson won the speed-climbing championship at the World Youth Championships in Scotland.
Alex Lowe Peak?
9/07/04 – An outdoor writer in Bozeman, Mont., has launched an effort to name a local peak after the late Alex Lowe.
Chabot, Eiter Win at Arco
9/07/04 – Alexander Chabot of France and Angela Eiter of Austria won the 18th annual RockMaster competition in Arco, Italy, the most prestigious invitational comp in the world.
Kongur Sees Rare Ascents
9/01/04 – Three separate Russian expeditions have climbed 25,325-foot Kongur, making the probable third, fourth, and fifth ascents of the highest peak in the Chinese Pamirs.
Hot Summer in Pakistan
8/31/04 – A lengthy American-Slovenian expedition to Pakistan this summer made a slew of first ascents and impressive attempts.
Asher Makes World Cup Final
8/25/04 – American Lizzy Asher made the final of a bouldering World Cup last weekend in Bardonecchia, Italy, finishing seventh in a field that included most of the world’s strongest bouldering competitors.
Free in a Day in Greenland
8/26/04 – Nathan Martin and Jared Ogden completed a major new route in southern Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord in superb style, establishing the 2,000-foot-plus wall route in a single day.
Huge New Route on Great Trango
8/24/04 – Americans Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton have made a bold, alpine-style first ascent of the enormous Southwest Ridge of Great Trango Tower (20,617 feet) in Pakistan.
New Routes in Arctic Alaska
8/23/04 – The four-man team of Justen Sjong, Adam Stack, Tim Kemple, and Max Hanft made a rare visit to the western side of Alaska’s Arrigetch Mountains and came away with two new routes.
Big Wall Freed in Madagascar
8/20/04 – The Basque brothers Iker and Eneko Pou have freed Bravo Les Filles, a 2,000-foot granite route in Madagascar established in 1999 by an all-female team led by Lynn Hill.
K2’s Magic Line Completed
8/17/04 – Two more teams have completed ascents of K2, including the second ascent of the “Magic Line,” K2’s steep and technical South-Southwest Pillar.
Take Back North America
8/17/04 – Climbers For Kerry, a Seattle-based group supporting presidential hopeful John Kerry, is launching an unusual PR stunt — a three-week effort to “take back” North America.
|Kellogg Races Up Rainier
8/16/04 – Acclimatized by many weeks on Broad Peak and K2, Chad Kellogg broke his own record for speed climbing Mt. Rainier on August 9.
I Robot, I Climb
8/13/04 – Engineers at Stanford University and NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory have developed a spiderlike robot that can ascend an artificial climbing wall.
Toll Rises on Khan Tengri
8/11/04 – The number of confirmed dead following an avalanche on 22,998-foot Khan Tengri in Kyrgyzstan has risen to 11.
Indian Creek Environmental Assessment
8/09/04 – The unsigned Finding of No Significant Impact (FONSI) and the EA #UT – 090-00-47 for the Indian Creek Corridor Plan and Environmental Assessment are available for public review and comment for 30 days beginning on August 2, 2004.
Japanese Climb K2
8/09/04 – Four members of a Japanese expedition and two Sherpa climbers summited K2 via the Abruzzi Spur on Saturday, Aug. 7, and returned to basecamp safely late Sunday evening.
Deadly Avalanche on Khan Tengri
8/06/04 – At least six climbers are dead on 22,998-foot Khan Tengri in Kyrgyzstan after an ice avalanche smashed into a large group around 6 a.m. on Aug. 5.
UIAA Suspends Rope Test
8/05/04 – The UIAA, the international federation of alpine clubs, has suspended certification of ropes under its “sharp edge” test, after problems surfaced at its approved testing laboratories.
New Champs at World Cup
8/02/04 – Could Olga Bibik give defending champion Sandrine Levet a serious run for the 2004 bouldering World Cup title? It’s starting to look that way.
Realization: It’s A Trade Route
7/30/04 – Patxi Usobiaga of Spain has made the third ascent of Realization, the 2001 Chris Sharma route at Céüse, France, that may be 5.15a.
Dozens Reach Top of K2
7/29/04 – A few days shy of the 50th anniversary of K2’s first ascent, more than 40 climbers summited the world’s second-highest peak over three days, ending a two-year drought of successful summits.
Fixed Anchor Ban Proposed for Tahquitz Rock
7/27/04 – No studies have ever been made by the Forest Service to determine whether there is any justification or need for the proposed ban. Neither has the Forest Service examined the likely consequences from such a drastic policy change.
New 5.12 on Longs Peak
7/26/04 – Roger Briggs and Chip Chace have free-climbed The Invisible Wall, a 1965 Layton Kor aid route on Longs Peak in Colorado.
Malcolm Smith Does 5.14+ Traverse
7/26/04 – Scottish strongman Malcolm Smith has completed the old "Big Link" project on the quarried and drilled limestone of Parisella’s Cave in North Wales.
U.S. Youth National Team Chosen
7/22/04 – Nearly 300 young climbers competed in the U.S. Youth National Championships, July 9-11 at the Pipeworks gym in Sacramento, California.
It’s Chabot, Sarkany in Chamonix
7/20/04 – Alex Chabot of France and Muriel Sarkany of Belgium returned to their winning ways at the Chamonix World Cup, July 12-13.
New Trial in Wall Death
7/20/04 – A Missouri judge has ordered a new trial in the case of a man charged with involuntary manslaughter after the portable climbing wall he operated malfunctioned and fatally injured a woman lowering from the wall.
2004 – Reese Martin Killed Paragliding
7/14/04 – Longtime climber and climbing activist Reese Martin III was killed July 9 in a paragliding accident in Washington State.
Women Break Speed Records for El Cap, Half Dome
7/14/04 – During a single week in mid-June, Heidi Wirtz and Vera Schulte-Pelkum smashed the women’s-team speed records for climbing Leaning Tower, Half Dome and El Capitan.
5.13 in High Sierra
7/13/04 – Peter Croft and Dave Nettle have completed the most difficult rock climb in the High Sierra, a spectacular line on the Indredible Hulk formation, according to a report on www.supertopo.com.
Maine Woman Climbs 5.14
7/13/04 – Eliza Sprecher, 26, of Portland, Maine, has redpointed Strict Scrutiny (5.14a) at Rumney, New Hampshire.
New Bolts in the Flatirons
7/09/04 – For the first time in 13 years, two new bolted routes will be legally established in the Flatirons of Boulder, Colorado.
Sjong, Schneider Free Golden Gate
7/07/04 – Justen Sjong and Steve Schneider free-climbed Golden Gate (5.13b) on El Capitan, making the fourth or fifth ascent of this 41-pitch Huber brothers testpiece.
Hubers Smash Zodiac Record
7/06/04 – The Huber brothers, Alexander and Thomas, have climbed El Capitan in less than two hours. During five separate climbs of the 16-pitch Zodiac route on the right side of the Yosemite monolith, the two Germans systematically hacked time off their existing speed record of 2 hours 31 minutes 20 seconds.
Davis Frees El Cap in a Day
7/02/04 – Steph Davis became the second woman to free-climb El Capitan in a day when she climbed Free Rider in 22 hours 15 minutes in late May.
2004 – Jules Cartwright Killed in Alps
7/01/04 – Jules Cartwright, 29, one of the foremost British alpinists of his generation, was killed in a fall from the Piz Badile in Switzerland, along with his client, Julie Colverd, a 43-year-old Scottish police officer.
|Gaskins climbs 5.15
7/01/04 – Briton John Gaskins has climbed a short, powerful route on northern England limestone and rated it 9a+ (5.15a).
Favorites Dominate World Cup
6/30/04 – Kilian Fischhuber of Austria and Sandrine Levet of France continued to dominate the World Cup bouldering circuit for 2004, winning the third stop June 20 in Fiera di Primiero, Italy.
Bouldering Event Draws 500-Plus
6/09/04 – Look out Phoenix, the next big bouldering event may be … La Targasonnic Freeclimb?
Vadim Vinokur sends Underground
6/08/04 – This wasn’t supposed to be a redpoint trip. But with the World Cup in Imst, Austria over and a few days till his flight back to New York, Vadim Vinokur decided to give Underground one more try.
Millet Won’t Grade Realization
6/08/04 – Frenchman Sylvain Millet, who made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Realization at Ceüse, France, in late May, says he doesn’t know how hard it is — the only sure thing, he says, is that it’s harder than the 8c+ (5.14c) routes he has climbed at the same crag.
Make that Quattro Torri?
6/08/04 – One of the famed Cinque Torri dolomite towers above Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy, has toppled over due to melt-freeze erosion.
Recreation fees at Indian Creek?
6/07/04 – At 11 a.m. on Monday, June 7, at the courthouse in Monticello, Utah, the Western Slope No-Fee Coalition will be making a presentation to San Juan County commissioners regarding the future of the Recreation Fee Demonstration Program in San Juan County, which includes the crack-climbing mecca of Indian Creek.
11-year-old climbs 5.14
6/07/04 – The 11-year-old Czech wonder boy Adam Ondra has redpointed Baby Basher (10+/5.14a) at Kochel, the fingery limestone area south of Munich, Germany.
Kennedy Northwest Face Completed
6/04/04 – Britons Jon Bracey and Rich Cross have completed the Northwest Face of Mt. Kennedy in the Yukon Territory to the 13,905-foot summit.
New Route in Kichatnas
6/04/04 – It might be overstating the case to say Twid Turner has an “enviable” record in Alaska’s Kichatna Spires, given the fact that the Kichatnas’ notoriously nasty weather isn’t for everyone.
Chabot, Eiter Win World Cup
6/01/04 – Alex Chabot of France regained his customary position atop the World Cup winners’ podium at Imst, Austria, while local heroines Angela Eiter and Bettina Schöpf finished one-two among the women.
Russians Top Everest North Face
6/01/04 – After more than two months of punishing effort, a Russian expedition has completed the direct North Face of Mt. Everest.
Success on Jannu North Face
5/26/04 – Russian climbers Dmitry Pavlenko and Alexander Ruchkin reached the summit of Jannu (7,710 meters) today via the north face, completing one of the most difficult high-altitude big walls ever attempted.
Caldwell Frees Dihedral Wall
5/25/04 – Tommy Caldwell has freed the Dihedral Wall on El Capitan, a strong candidate for the hardest big-wall free climb in the world. Caldwell redpointed the 25-pitch route over four days in mid-May.
Hallucinogen Goes “Free and Dry”
5/24/04 – Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson have made a post-modern ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, freeing 13 of the 14 pitches in standard big-wall free-climbing style and dry tooling one super-thin face high on the wall.
Solo New Route on Makalu 2
5/24/04 – Jean-Christophe Lafaille soloed a new route on the north side of Makalu 2 (7,650 meters), but was unable to continue to the 8,481-meter main summit of Makalu.
Fixed tyrolean in the Black
5/21/04 – This May rangers at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park upgraded the tyrolean traverse that spans the Gunnison River between the North and the South Chasm View walls.
Twins Free El Cap
5/21/04 – Twin brothers Mike and Mark Anderson, 27, free climbed all 37 pitches of Free Rider (5.12+) on lead or seconding, and Mike Anderson freed every pitch first time without falling.
Getting Close on Jannu, Everest
5/20/04 – In a season in which more than 100 climbers already have summited Mt. Everest by its normal routes, two large, well-orchestrated Russian teams are within striking range of the top on much more daunting Himalayan challenges: the north face of Jannu (7,710 meters) and the direct north face of Everest (8,848 meters).
280 Routes in a Day
5/18/04 – Californian Michael Reardon free soloed more than 280 routes at Joshua Tree over 19 hours in late April.
Koyamada Completes V16
5/17/04 – Japan’s Dai Koyamada has completed a massive link-up at the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia and rated it 8c (V16).
Payne, Hume Take PCA Championship
5/17/04 – Angela Payne took her second Professional Climbers Association (PCA) victory of the season, and David Hume won the first PCA comp he entered all year at the Season III Championships in Boulder, Colorado.
Elie Chevieux Alive!
5/14/04 – According to several news sources, Swiss on-sight phenom Elie Chevieux is NOT one of the two Europeans that were stoned to death in Kabul, Afghanistan.
Elie Chevieux murdered in Afghanistan
5/11/04 – The Swiss climber Elie Chevieux was found murdered in Kabul, Afghanistan, on May 9. Chevieux, 31, winner and finalist in many international climbing competitions from 1991 to 1997, was brutally murdered with stones in a public park, along with an unidentified friend.
Francois Nicole Climbs 5.14+
5/10/04 – Francois Nicole has finished an old project at St. Loup, Switzerland, and graded it 9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a), according to www.8a.nu.
|Steph Davis Frees El Cap
5/07/04 – Steph Davis has free-climbed El Capitan by the route Free Rider, a variation to the Salathé Wall. Davis is the third woman to free El Cap, and only the second to lead every pitch of a free route.
Huber Solos 5.14
5/7/04 – Alexander Huber has soloed a 70-foot 8b+ (5.14a) at his favorite crag, Schleierwasserfall in Austria.
North Face of Baruntse Climbed
5/4/04 – An international team has climbed the north wall of Baruntse in the Khumbu region of Nepal, an imposing face that has been eyeballed by thousands of trekkers from the summit of Island Peak.
Two New Routes in Alaska
5/4/04 – Climbing between storms, Shawn Huisman and Sean Isaac managed to complete two new ice and mixed routes during a short trip to Alaska — their first visit to the Alaska Range.
Remote Patagonian Peak Climbed
4/30/04 – An American-Chilean team completed the first ascent of striking Avellano Tower, in what was probably the first climbing expedition to the Avellano Valley of northern Patagonia.
The 2004 Shipton Tilman Award winners
4/29/04 – Now in its 14th year, the Shipton/Tilman Grant awards up to $30,000 annually to adventurers planning small expeditions that reflect the philosophies of the late explorers Eric Shipton (b. 1907) and H.W. "Bill" Tilman (b. 1897).
2004 – Berhault Killed in the Alps
4/29/04 – Patrick Berhault, one of the most visionary and accomplished climbers of recent decades, died in a fall from the Dom, the highest peak in Switzerland, three-quarters of the way through his unprecedented bid to climb all of the 4,000-meter peaks of the Alps non-stop by foot and ski.
Sjong and Stack Free Salathé
4/27/04 – Adam Stack and Justen Sjong have completed a traditional free ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b) on El Capitan, swinging leads and either leading or following every pitch all free.
Trotter Cleans Up Monkey Face
4/27/04 – Canadian Sonnie Trotter has made an all-traditional redpoint of the East Face (5.13d) of the Monkey Face at Smith Rock, placing all of his pro on the lead.
New Faces at World Cups
4/26/04 – If the first World Cup difficulty comp of 2004 is any indication, this year’s circuit could be a lot more exciting than last season.
Fischhuber Flashes 5.14b
4/27/04 – The Austrian Kilian Fischhuber has flashed Tai Chi, a route rated 5.14b (8c). The 26-foot, slightly overhanging limestone route at Lorüns was established by Beat Kammerlander and graded 5.14a.
Caldwell Flash-Frees Leaning Tower
4/20/04 – Tommy Caldwell has flashed the mostly free version of the Leaning Tower, Yosemite’s steepest big-wall climb.
New Star in Men’s Bouldering
4/19/04 – Austrian Kilian Fischhuber has won his first World Cup bouldering competition and moved into the top spot in the overall standings.
51 down, 31 to go
4/15/04 – Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin are well past the halfway mark on their visionary Tour des Alpes.
11-year-old wows Euros
4/13/04 – An 11-year-old from the Czech Republic is rapidly emerging as one of the brightest lights in European sport climbing.
North Twin Finally Climbed Again!
4/09/04 – Steve House and Marko Prezelj have made the coveted third ascent of the North Face of North Twin in the Canadian Rockies—the third ascent in 30 years.
New Route on Moose’s Tooth
4/09/04 – Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney have climbed a new route on the famed East Face of the Moose’s Tooth in the Alaska Range.
Sharma, Payne Win ABS National
4/06/05 – Chris Sharma and Angela Payne won the Petzl Roc Comp national bouldering championships at Earth Treks gym in Maryland.
French Top Bouldering World Cup
4/05/04 – Daniel Dulac and Sandrine Levet won the first bouldering World Cup of the year, April 4 in Birmingham, England.
Russians Begin New Everest Route
4/02/04 – A large, all-star team of Russian mountaineers has launched a new direct route up the North Face of Mt. Everest, one of the most ambitious attempts in years on the world’s highest peak.
Sphinx Face in a Day
3/31/04 – The huge Sphinx Face on Mount Temple in the Canadian Rockies, which just two weeks ago got its first winter ascent (and possibly second ascent in 15 years), was climbed in a single day round-trip by Scott Semple and Eamonn Walsh.
Ski Mountaineering Champs
3/30/04 – The burgeoning sport of ski mountaineering concluded its race season in North America in late March with two major events, including the first World Cup on U.S. snow.
Second Winter Route on Temple
3/26/04 – Raphael Slawinski has made his second trip up the North Face of Mt. Temple this winter, climbing the “Eiger of the Canadian Rockies” with Valery Babanov.
19 Down, 63 to Go
3/25/04 – After three and a half weeks of effort, Frenchmen Patrick Berhault, 47, and Philippe Magnin, 39, have climbed 19 4,000-meter peaks in the Alps, but two spells of snowy weather have put them nearly a week behind schedule.
Purnell Climbs The Game
3/22/04 – Coloradan Rich Purnell has repeated The Game (M13) near Canmore, Alberta, becoming the first American to climb the world’s hardest mixed route.
|Pringle, Payne Win ABS National
3/22/04 – Ethan Pringle and Angela Payne won the American Bouldering Series (ABS) national at the Pipeworks gym in Sacramento, California, on Saturday.
Vinokur, Harrington Win National
3/19/04 – Vadim Vinokur and Emily Harrington won the difficulty comp at the USA Climbing Adult Open National, held at the X-Treme climbing gym in Miami, Florida, on March 13.
Diamond Blitzed in Winter
3/19/04 – On a warm, calm day last Friday, Jonny Copp and Josh Wharton raced up the Diamond of Colorado’s 14,259-foot Longs Peak in 14 hours and 17 minutes, car to car.
Squamish Film Tops Festival
3/16/04 – In the Shadow of the Chief, a 50-minute documentary of the 1961 first ascent of Stawamus Chief in British Columbia, won the grand prize at the 7th Annual Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival.
Flurry of Mixed Repeats
3/12/04 – Many of Europe’s best mixed climbers descended on Canmore, Alberta, for the annual ice festival during the first week of March, and the Cineplex, site of Canada’s hardest mixed routes, saw numerous repeats.
Big Wall in Antarctica
3/10/04 – Americans Josh Helling and Mike Libecki climbed a new big-wall route in rarely visited Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, during a two-month visit to the southern continent.
Copp, Wharton in Patagonia
3/09/04 – Good news, bad news for Jonny Copp and Josh Wharton in Patagonia this year: On the one hand, they arrived in time for one of the longest good-weather windows in memory and reached two summits.
New Grit Challenge
3/05/04 – Steve McClure, Britain’s strongest sport climber, has turned his attention to gritstone and climbed a desperate but fairly well-protected problem at Curbar Edge.
Temple North Face in Winter
3/04/04 – Ben Firth and Raphael Slawinski have made a winter ascent of the much-tried Greenwood-Locke Route on the North Face of Mt. Temple in the Canadian Rockies.
Devils Tower Route Closure to Protect Prairie Falcons
3/03/04 – To protect Prairie Falcon nesting sites, the National Park Service will temporarily close climbing routes along the west and northeast face of Devils Tower beginning March 15th.
Segal, Payne win ABS National
3/03/04 – Matt Segal and Angela Payne were the top finishers at the Mammut ABS National Bouldering Championship in Boulder, Colorado.
Charlie Fowler Honored by AAC
3/03/04 – Charlie Fowler received the American Alpine Club’s Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, the club’s highest honor for climbing achievement, at the AAC’s annual meeting in Las Vegas on February 28.
Vail Gets 2 New Testpieces
2/26/04 – Coloradan Rich Purnell has added two extremely difficult mixed lines to the Secret Cicle area of Vail, which now holds “the highest concentration of hard routes in Vail and the USA.
82 Alps in 82 Days
2/25/04 – Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin are about to launch a new endurance test in Europe: All 82 of the 4,000-meter summits of the Alps in 82 days.
Major New Route in Rockies
2/25/04 – Canadian guide Dave Marra and Californian Tom Schnugg climbed a huge and extremely dangerous new ice route on the North Face of Snow Dome in the Canadian Rockies.
Winter New Route on Ak-Su
2/24/04 – A Russian team has completed a 36-pitch new route on the north face of 17,552-foot Ak-Su in the Pamir-Alai mountains of Kyrygzstan.
Gaskins Climbs Possible V15
2/23/04 – British strongman John Gaskins has climbed a new boulder problem at Trowbarrow in the Lakes District of England that he thinks may be V15.
Three More Daks Testpieces
2/20/04 – The superb conditions that draped the Adirondacks with ice earlier this year are mostly gone, but unusually thick ice continues to cover the popular walls above Chapel Pond.
Another V15 for Koyamada
2/13/04 – The prolific Dai Koyamada has climbed another V15 (8c) boulder problem in Japan. Methuselahzation is a 25-move problem at the Yatsue area in Kagoshima, near the southern tip of the island.
European Power Surge
2/11/04 – Hard boulder problems are falling left and right to European strong men.
Americans do Euro-Mixed
2/09/04 – Coloradans Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden made a two-week tour of Europe’s highly publicized mixed-climbing venues and quickly cleaned up some of the hardest routes.
Grand Traverse in Winter
2/06/04 – In mid-January, two teams of veteran alpinists completed the Tetons’ Grand Traverse in winter for the first time.
Fly Boys at Rumney
2/04/04 – Not to be dissing Dave Graham, but one of his hardest Rumney routes, The Fly (9a or 5.14d), received an embarrassing amount of attention this fall.
Crack House Rules
2/04/04 – Steph Davis, crack-climbing diva from Moab, made the “first girly ascent” (her words) of the local testpiece The Crack House, a long roof-crack problem.
Limestone Alps highlights
2/04/04 – Mauro “Bubu” Bole and Harry Berger made the fourth and fifth ascents, respectively, of Thomas Huber’s End of Silence on the Feuerhorn in Germany’s Berchtesgaden region.
|Amazing Year for Slovenians
2/04/04 – Slovenians Marko Lukic and Andrej Grmovsek pushed free-climbing standards across the Alps last season, with a remarkable string of high-level multipitch climbs.
Rosaasen, Lee #1 in SLC
2/02/04 – Canadian Nels Rosaasen won his fourth PCA bouldering competition in a row Saturday night in Salt Lake City, while Lauren Lee took her first PCA victory in the women’s competition.
Litz Rages in Hueco
1/30/04 – James Litz, the Tennessee stud, has been galloping up Hueco Tanks’ hardest boulder problems since mid-December.
M13 Claimed in Canada
1/28/04 – Ben Firth has given an M13 rating to his new climb The Game in Canada, the first mixed route in the world of that grade.
A V16 Boulder Problem?
1/26/04 – Italian Mauro Calibani has suggested a grade of 8c+ (V16) for his new boulder problem Tonino ’78 in central Italy.
Berger, Papert Are Ice Champions
1/26/04 – Favorites Harald Berger of Austria and Ines Papert of Germany won the 2004 Ice Climbing World Championships in Switzerland.
Trotter Headpoints Eldo 5.13
1/23/04 – Canadian Sonnie Trotter has made a second lead ascent of the Eric Decaria testpiece You Must Be High, aka Musta Bin High (5.13c R/X), the hardest of a recent crop of headpoint routes in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.
Cody Roth’s Epic 5.14b
1/21/04 – Who says sport climbing isn’t scary? American Cody Roth, now living in Innsbruck, Austria, climbed his second 5.14b in December, and the climb nearly punched his lights out before he sent it.
Ouray Ice Fest Results
1/21/04 – Europeans dominated the 2004 Ouray Ice Festival competition in southwestern Colorado last weekend, although, as usual, the Canadians also made a strong showing.
No Go on Shishapangma
1/20/04 – Deep cold and an unexpected serac barrier halted a winter attempt on 8,027-meter Shishapangma last weekend with only easy ground leading to the summit.
Berger Flashes M12
1/06/04- Ice World Cup champion Harald Berger has flashed the M12 mixed climb Vertical Limits.
Bubu Onsights M10
11/15/04 – Mauro “Bubu” Bole has onsighted the M10 route Fly in the Wind in the Val di Landro of the Italian Dolomites.
Lindner muy fuerte in Mexico
1/14/04 – Chris Lindner is having a happy new year in northern Mexico. The 19-year-old Southern Californian has onsighted a slew of 5.13 sport climbs on the limestone walls of El Potrero Chico and the tufa-laden caves of El Salto.
Getting Close on Shishapangma
1/12/04 – After a month of hard work, a Polish-Italian team is well-positioned to make the first winter ascent of 8,027-meter Shishapangma.
WI 6 in the Daks
1/09/04 – The Adirondacks of upstate New York are experiencing a phenomenal ice season. At the Exit 30 Crag, Chris Thomas, a 20-year-old from the great ice climbing state of Maryland, led The Fecalator, a 40-foot, 120-degree-overhanging handcrack to a thin ice dagger.
New Route on Aconcagua
1/08/04 – Tomaz Humar has forged a new line up the south face of Aconcagua with Ales Kozelj, the first major new route for Humar since a freak home-building accident nearly crippled his legs.
Heason Solos New E9
1/05/04 – Ben Heason has added a slab-climbing testpiece to the British gritstone crag Froggatt Edge According to www.planetfear.com, Heason soloed the unprotected Lonely Heart (E9 6c) after several visits for toprope rehearsal.
Italian Woman Climbs M10+/M11-
1/05/04 – Italian Anna Torretta has repeated Tomahawk (M10+/M11-) at the Swiss crags of Kandersteg. Established in 2001 by Robert Jasper, Tomahawk links a 30-foot rock overhang to a fragile Grade 5 ice dagger.
Urubko Wins Speed Climb
1/5/04 – Denis Urubko, the standout high-altitude mountaineer from Kazakhstan, has won the speed-climbing competition up Amangeldy Peak for the fourth time.
A “new” season in the Ruth
Unhappy with the short summer window in Alaska’s famed Ruth Gorge, climbers have long contemplated alternate times to visit.
This past March at Futagoyama, near Tokyo, Yuji Hirayama redpointed Flat Mountain, now probably the hardest sport climb in Asia.
On the granite of Valle dell’Orco, Italy, this summer, Didier Berthod climbed a 12-meter roof crack, a strong candidate for Europe’s hardest crack climb.
Just Short on Lhotse
12/22/03 – A Japanese expedition just missed the first winter-season ascent of the South Face of Lhotse (8,516 meters) in Nepal, according to www.mounteverest.net.
Eureka! A new route!
12/17/03 – Near the southwestern Colorado mining village of Eureka, home to the popular Stairway to Heaven ice climb, climbing guide Vince Anderson and Pike Howard established the four-pitch Dukes of Hazard (WI 6 M6).
Chinese Peak Gets First Ascent
12/16/03 – British alpinists Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne bagged the first ascent of 20,919-foot Mt. Grosvenor in Sichuan Province of central China.
|Solo New Route in Nepal
12/12/03 – Briton Nick Bullock soloed a new route on the unclimbed north side of Teng Kangpoche (6500 meters) in the Khumbu region of Nepal, although he didn’t quite make the summit.
New Route on Patagonian Icecap
12/11/03 – The isolated and storm-lashed summit of Murallon on the southern Patagonian Icecap has been reached by a new route.
Caldwell Frees Zodiac
12/10/03 – Tommy Caldwell has added the Zodiac to his tick list of El Cap free climbs. Caldwell completed the 5.13-plus version of the classic El Cap aid route in late November.
12/10/03 – On Friday November 28th Rich Purnell and M9entertainment hosted the first annual Psyche Night show at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO.
Levet Wins Twice in Scotland
12/08/03 – Sandrine Levet of France left no doubt that she was the dominant all-around competition climber of 2003, as she won both the final World Cup bouldering and difficulty (lead climbing) events in Edinburgh, Scotland.
Hard Problems in Hueco
12/05/03 – Matt Wilder is at it again in Hueco. Last weekend, he repeated the classic Fred Nicole problem Crown of Aragorn (V13) at Hueco Tanks, Texas.
French Host Dry-Tool Comp
12/04/03 – An ice climbing competition in balmy southern France? Well, not exactly. Last weekend, the world’s first dry-toooling competition on natural rock was held at the Gorges des Gâts, about an hour south of Grenoble.
The end of free camping at Joshua Tree?
12/03/03 – Camping fees at the climbers’ campgrounds at Joshua Trees go into effect February 17th, and are causing quite a stir.
World’s First V16?
12/03/03 – Dai Koyamada has established a new boulder problem at Hourai, Japan, that he rates “at least 8c,” or V15, according to www.8a.nu.
The Russians are Coming!
12/02/03 – Sixteen-year-old Vasya Vorotnikov has redpointed Steady Slobbin’ (5.14b) at Rumney.
Litz Repeats Utah 5.14c
12/01/03 – James Litz has redpointed I Scream (5.14c) in the Hell Cave of American Fork Canyon, Utah, according to www.8a.nu.
2003 – Jack Durrance Dies
11/26/03 – Jack Durrance, one of the best American climbers of the late 1930s and early ’40s, has died at 91.
Vinokur 6th in World Cup
12/01/03 – Vadim Vinokur must like Asian food. For the second year in a row, the American climber has made the finals in a World Cup in the Far East, finishing sixth in Shenzen, China, on November 22.
Jack Durrance Dies
11/26/03 – Jack Durrance, one of the best American climbers of the late 1930s and early 1940s, has died at 91.
Spanish Stars Keep Sending
11/21/03 – Iker Pou, the Spaniard who has already repeated two 5.14d routes, Action Directe and Bain de Sang, has established a 5.14d (9a) of his own in northern Spain.
Spicy Ice in Canada
11/18/03 – How hard can WI4 be with modern ice tools? Pretty darned hard if the ice is only 0.5 to 1.5 inches thick for many pitches in a row.
Chabot’s W.C. Lead Narrows
11/17/03 – Ramón Julián of Spain edged closer to an overall World Cup upset by beating Alex Chabot of France in Kranj, Slovenia, on Saturday.
Access Fund to File Suit in Response to Unlawful Climbing Ban at Cave Rock
11/13/03 – In response to the recent decision by the US Forest Service (USFS) to uphold the Cave Rock climbing ban, the Access Fund announced today that it will file a lawsuit requesting the courts overturn the USFS ruling.
New Route on Annapurna III
11/13/03 – British climbers Ian Parnell and Kenton Cool, along with American John Varco, made the first ascent of the much-tried Southwest Ridge of Annapurna III (7,555 meters) in Nepal.
British Columbia’s Bugaboos saw a warm, dry summer, with much high-level free-climbing action to match.
”It was like trying to sell three Kirbys in a week,” says Joe Kinder of the effort required for his new route at Rumney, New Hampshire, his hardest to redpoint date.
Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck of Switzerland finished the first free ascent of the Rote Fluh on the right side of the Eiger’s great Nordwand.
Banff Film, Book Winners Announced
11/11/03 – A non-climbing film took the grand prize at the 28th Banff Mountain Film Festival last weekend.
Cave Rock Access Alert
11/10/03 – The US Forest Service has rejected the Access Fund’s appeal of its decision to shut down climbing at Lake Tahoe’s Cave Rock.
Boulder Brawl II
11/10/03 – Continuing his domination of North American bouldering comps, Nels Rosaasen easily won the Professional Climbers Association’s Boulder Brawl II on November 8.
|Canadian WI 8 Repeated
11/7/03 – Canada’s only WI 8 ice climb saw its first repeat earlier this year when Ben Firth, Eamonn Walsh and Greg Thaczuk climbed Rights of Passage on the north face of Mt. Kitchener.
Nuptse East Climbed
11/05/03 – Russians Valery Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko climbed Nuptse East (7,804 meters) in Nepal via the spectacular Southeast Buttress, a line that had defied 15 years of serious attempts.
Permanent road and campground closures possible at Turkey Rock, Colorado
11/03/03 – Access to Turkey Rock could change drastically in the years to come if climbers don’t get more involved.
Chabot Back on Form
11/03/03 – After finishing 15th three weeks earlier in Prague, Alex Chabot returned to the top of the World Cup podium at Valence in southern France last weekend.
Rumney Rock Stars
10/30/03 – During a one-week visit to New Hampshire, a trio of French climbers made short work of some of Rumney’s hardest climbs. Also, Chris Sharma repeated the Fly (5.14d) in a single day.
New Flatiron Speed Records
10/28/03 – Mountain runner Buzz Burrell has broken the speed records for climbing the First and Third Flatirons, the landmark slabs looming over Boulder, Colorado.
14-year-old nabs second 5.14
10/27/03 – In a stellar couple of days of climbing at Rumney, New Hampshire, 14-year-old Daniel Woods climbed his second 5.14 and flashed his first 5.13.
Indian Creek BLM plan
10/23/03 – The initial comment period for the Bureau of Land Management’s Environmental Assessment of the Indian Creek, Utah, corridor is about to end.
Trotter Creates Canadian Testpiece
10/22/03 – Sonnie Trotter has completed a much-discussed line on the limestone cliffs of Lions Head, Ontario, that may be 5.14c or harder.
Rands Leads Grit Testpiece
10/21/03 – American Lisa Rands has climbed an E7 on British gritstone — only the second woman ever to lead a grit route of this grade, which equates to 5.13 with poor protection.
Yuji: Two Falls on El Niño
10/20/03 – Barely missing on his third attempt to onsight an El Cap route, Yuji Hirayama managed a two-fall free ascent of El Niño (30 pitches, 5.13c) on the right side of El Capitan.
Hubers Free Zodiac
10/17/03 – The Huber brothers have free-climbed the Zodiac route on El Capitan, according to reports on several European web sites.
Bereziartu goes steep
Near Bilbao in the Basque Country of northern Spain, Josune Bereziartu made the third ascent of Na-Nai, given 8c+ (5.14c)
Bernabé Fernández claimed the first ascent of Chilam-Balam near Málaga, Spain, proposing the grade of 9b+ (5.15c)
Libecki Returns to Greenland
10/14/03 – In late summer, exploratory climber Mike Libecki returned to the extremely remote fjord in southeastern Greenland in which he soloed an enormous rock wall last year.
Roth, Vinokur Show Promise at Prague World Cup
10/14/03 – For the first time in memory, two American men are within reach of the podium at the World Cup competition level.
Oiarzabal Makes it 20
10/09/03 – Juanito Oiarzabal returned to the top of Cho Oyu for the second time in 11 days, giving the Basque climber his 20th 8,000-meter summit, more than any other man.
McClure Storms Rainshadow
The wild black-streaked rock of Malham Cove has long been one of Britain’s proving grounds for hard sport climbing, as evidenced most recently by Steve McClure’s Rainshadow.
Yuji Repeats Golden Gate, Narrowly Misses Onsight
10/06/03 – Yuji Hirayama made a two-day third ascent of Golden Gate, a 41-pitch 5.13b established by the Huber brothers in 2000.
Changing of the Guard at World Cups?
10/06/03 – New faces won the first World Cup of the fall in the northern Italian ski resort of Aprica.
Basque Climbs 19th 8,000’er
10/03/03 – Juanito Oiarzabal soloed to the top of Cho Oyu on September 23, marking his 19th 8,000-meter summit.
Europe’s Hardest Crack Climb
10/02/03 – Didier Berthod, a 22-year-old Swiss climber, has redpointed a 12-meter roof crack on the granite of Orco Valley, Italy, and graded it 5.14.
Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation
10/1/03 – The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation is looking for new or used gear for its Sherpa Climbing School Project in the Khumbu region of the Himalaya, set to hold its first course in February 2004.
Eiter Upsets Women at Arco
9/29/03 – A teenager from Austria upset the defending female champions at the 17th annual Arco Rockmaster in Italy, the most prestigious invitational competition in the world.
Yuji opens possible 5.15, onsights Uncertainty Principle
9/26/03 – Rumors of a possible 5.15 by Japanese star Yuji Hirayama have swirled around the internet in recent days. Here are the facts from Hirayama himself.
|The 3rd Annual Flagstaff TRASH BASH
9/25/03 – Boulder, CO – Over one hundred and twenty people showed up for the 3rd Annual Flagstaff TRASH BASH on Wednesday, October the 17th, to pickup a ton of trash in the freezing rain.
M12 Summer Drytooling Route
9/25/03 – It was bound to come to this: According to www.planetfear.com, Scott Muir has established one of the world’s hardest mixed-climbing routes — in the summer.
Youth World Championships
9/24/03 – The U.S. and Canadian teams put three young climbers on the podium at the Youth World Championships in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria, last weekend.
New Record for California 14’ers
9/22/03 – Hans Florine has smashed the record for climbing California’s 14,000-foot peaks. Starting in the wee hours of September 17, Florine bagged eight Sierra 14’ers in the next 24 hours.
New 5.13d on Cima Grande
9/19/03 – After several days of preparation, Mauro “Bubu” Bole redpointed the 11-pitch Camillotto Pellesier on Italy’s Cima Grande di Lavaredo, finding three pitches of 5.13 (up to 5.13d), two pitches of 5.12, and four pitches of 5.11.
Vampire Spires Get First Free Route
9/17/03 – Pat Goodman and Hank Jones climbed the first all-free route in the Vampire Spires, a remote area of granite towers about 25 miles from the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories.
Koch, Chin abandon Everest attempt
9/16/03 – Stephen Koch and Jimmy Chin, along with their two Sherpa companions, turned back at 6,800 meters in waist-deep snow on Mt. Everest’s North Face.
Grand Teton Epic
9/15/03 – Climber Joe Hestick broke his hip and several ribs in a fall while descending to the peak’s lower saddle with his wife Beth.
Rakhmetov, Levet best in Rovereto
9/15/03 – Salavat Rakhmetov of Russia proved once again that, at 35 years old, he still keeps up with the youngsters in World Cup bouldering.
McMillen Climbs 5.14b
9/10/03 – Jared McMillen of Las Vegas redpointed his first 5.14b, Legend of the Overfiend at Mt. Charleston, on September 8.
Derek Hersey Masterpiece Repeated
9/09/03 – Matt Samet and Tim Kemple made the probable second and third ascents, back-to-back, of the late Derek Hersey’s run-out masterpiece To RP or Not to Be (5.12a X) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.
9/08/03 – Alex Chabot of France concluded one of the best weeks of sport climbing ever by climbing three solid 5.14s in one day.
9/05/03 – A strong group of British climbers completed an extremely successful free-climbing expedition to Torssuagatoq Sound in southern Greenland this summer.
New Huber Testpieces in Alps
9/03/03 – Alexander and Thomas Huber have created two more alpine testpieces on the limestone North Face of the Feuerhorn in the Bavarian Alps.
El Niño freed by Americans
9/02/03 – The El Capitan testpiece El Niño got its first American free ascent (and fourth overall), when Steve Schneider, Brian Cork and Heather Baer redpointed the climb this summer.
Chabot (sort of) flashes 5.14b
9/02/03 – French superstar Alexandre Chabot, the reigning World Cup sport climbing champion, has "amnesia onsighted" a 5.14b (8c).
Teton Ice Disappears Again
8/29/03 – Bad news for alpine-ice enthusiasts: The most classic ice routes of Grand Teton National Park have melted out for the second year in a row.
Canadian Flashes 5.14a
8/25/03 – Canadian Mike Doyle capped a superb week at Maple Canyon, Utah, by flashing Millenium (5.14a) on August 22, according to www.8a.nu.
Favorites Win Aviles World Cup
8/26/03 – Nearly halfway through the competition schedule, Alexandre Chabot of France and Muriel Sarkany of Belgium continue to dominate World Cup difficulty (lead) climbing.
Alps Suffer in Heat Wave
8/21/03 – The worst of the European heat wave may have ended, but for Alpine climbers the disastrous summer continues.
Shock and Awe – Milton Gets Aggro Linkage
8/20/03 – This April, as bombs fell on Baghdad, itinerant Canadian climber Scott Milton was suffering from Shock and Awe (5.14c) on the Aggro Wall at Smith Rock.
E Josune Va
8/20/03 – On May 6, Josune Bereziartu, of Spain, climbed one of the world’s hardest boulder-problem traverses, E la Nave Va, at Lindental, Switzerland.
“Dream” Route in Peru
8/19/03 – Realizing a 24-year-old dream, Carlos Buhler and Thaddeus Josephson bagged the Northwest Face of Pucahirca Norte (19,836 feet) in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru.
Sharma, Rands Upset in Salt Lake
8/18/03 – Canadian Nels Rosaasen dominated the PCA Summer Showdown bouldering comp, August 16, at The Front gym in Salt Lake City.
5.12 on the Grand Teton
8/14/03 – Greg Collins and Hans Johnstone have climbed a new, direct line up the classic North Face of the Grand Teton, creating one of the hardest multi-pitch rock climbs in the range.
|World Championships 2003
8/13/03 – Climbers and spectators gathered in Chamonix from July 9-13th for the lead climbing and bouldering World Cup.
Triple Lindy in RMNP
8/13/03 – Jonny Copp and Kelly Cordes climbed three of the biggest faces in Rocky Mountain National Park in less than 24 hours, car-to-car.
Ukrainians on Great Trango
8/11/03 – Four members of a Ukrainian expedition climbed a new route on the Northwest Face of Great Trango Tower (20,415 feet), one of the largest rock walls in the world.
Avalanche Kills 8 in Peru
8/9/03 – An avalanche on Alpamayo (19,511 feet) in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru killed eight foreign climbers in July.
Australian Hard Woman
8/8/03 – In a single month, Monique Forestier has climbed the two hardest sport routes by an Australian woman.
Climbers banned from Nevada sport crag
8/7/03 -Nevada’s Cave Rock climbing area, home to such classic sport routes as Undertow and Slayer, is now closed, following a Record of Decision (ROD) reached by the US Forest Service Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit in July.
5 Diamond Routes in a Day
8/6/03 -Topher Donahue and Tommy Caldwell climbed five routes in one day on the Diamond, the 900-foot granite wall on Longs Peak, Colorado.
Kellogg fastest on Khan Tengri
8/04/03 – American Chad Kellogg won the annual Khan Tengri speed-climbing competition in Kazkhstan on August 1.
Chilam Balam – first 9b+?
8/01/03 – Spaniard Bernabé Fernández claimed the first ascent of Chilam Balam, at Villanueva del Rosario in Málaga, Spain.
Multi-Pitch Speed Fest
7/7/03 – Tired of plastic-pumping comp coverage ? Check out the Klaus Fengler photos from the fourth annual Red Bull-Big Wall Speed Climbing Contest, held on the limestone big walls of Croatia’s Paklenica Canyon.
Success on Nanga Parbat
7/7/03 – French climber Jean Christophe Lafaille and American Ed Viesturs of Bainbridge Island, WA reached the summit of 26,548 foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan on June 27th.
French, German, and Swiss storm the Alps
6/24/03 – In early February, Frenchmen Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin blitzed the Italian side of Mont Blanc, climbing an astonishing 16 routes over 19 days.
Potter climbs the mother of all cracks
6/24/03 – Dean Potter has freed the aid route Acromaniac, formerly 5.10 A0, in Day Canyon near Moab, Utah.
AAC to support restoration project in Khumbu region
6/18/03 – In conjunction with the 50th anniversary celebration of Mount Everest’s first ascent, the American Alpine Club (AAC) announced its financial backing of a five-year conservation effort aimed at restoring the alpine environs of Mount Everest.
Helicopter crashes on Everest one day before 50th anniversary celebration
6/02/03 – A helicopter transporting climbers crashed near Everest basecamp on Wednesday.
Zion Duo scores first one-day ascent of Streaked Wall, and three other speed records
5/21/03 – In February, Brian McCray and Ammon McNeeley made two visits to the sandstone big walls of Zion National Park and came away with four speed records
Papert and Jasper go on standard-setting dry-tooling spree in Europe
5/21/03 – During the first two months of 2003, Germans Ines Papert and Robert Jasper raised the bar for mixed climbing by picking their way up several high-end routes in Switzerland.
Friends of Joshua Tree revives Climb Smart in the Park
5/19/03 – Climb Smart presented by The Friends of Joshua Tree (FoJT), is a fun-filled and action packed four days planned in Joshua Tree over Memorial Day weekend.
Statement of Youth
4/17/03 – Look out Realization. Scoot over Flex Luthor. There’s a new all-natural 5.15a on the scene– La Rambla Direct, an extension to Alex Huber’s 5.14c.