The Neglected Place
There is a little part of Malaysia that has not managed to catch the eye of the prospective tourist. There is a little Tropical Island called Labuan situated off the Coast of Sabah and at the mouth of Brunei Bay that has missed the far reaching tourist and remains unfulfilled as a place to go and as a destination that must be visited. At the weekends the place does gain a sense of proportion as day trippers and overnighters from nearby Brunei swarm in for the cheaper goods but during the week it is empty. From Monday to Friday when far flung tourists should be swarming in for sun, sea and shopping the place remains bare, silent and bypassed, a tribute to what could be but is not.
Surrounded by coral reefs and secluded white sandy beaches, Labuan comprises six Islands covering 98Km Sq. full of lush tropical flora and fauna. Lying 8km offshore and accessed by frequent and high speed ferries, Labuan is inhabited by a diverse, stimulating and cosmopolitan society. Malaysia designated the Islands an offshore financial center, a duty free port and tourist destination, designed with such in mind as an intended jewel of the crown for Malaysia.
A little corner hidden away, offering ideal relaxation combined with good shopping, sight seeing and easy access by ferry or plane, but a place that suffers from the lack of one all important requirement: An abundant and continuing supply of tourists.
Walking around the main town a well laid and organized city is the immediate picture that springs to mind. Straight streets abound all resplendent with sidewalks and pavements which is often a novelty in Asia outside of Singapore. Parallel and aligned roads cut through neat blocks of houses and shops: all set out like a chess board but a game without the pieces. The design is excellent and the setup well thought out. Drivers complain because the system is a myriad of one way streets but for the tourist the ease and casual setup allows an enjoyable walk to be undertaken without fear of accidentally being mowed down by a budding motorbike racer or a head-nodding car driver.
Trees adorn the larger roads, changing the gloom of the tarmac to a pleasing picture of greenish color, the smaller roads are decorated with flower boxes or flower beds filled with a variety of reds and pinks and down by the waterfront a large park gives space for relaxation and shelter under the boughs of the large trees ? shelter from the heat of the day. Further towards the sea breathtaking views of the mountains and islands beyond give suitable backdrop to a stroll along the beach or waterfront. Take a swim or a trip to a neighboring Island, study the flora and fauna or chomp an ice cream before entering the shopping district and spending money on goods at duty free prices. Browse the market and find a bargain, eat in a first class restaurant or dine out at a street vendors? single table, party the night away at the latest in Night Club fashion or have a beer by the sea and watch the waves splashing on the shore.
A rich marine life in the waters surrounding Labuan are suitable for many a sport-fishing enthusiast for year round fishing. The interiors of some of the bigger Islands are covered with dense jungles and flora and fauna for the adventurer. In the surrounding waters of Labuan Island are several wrecks that are diving havens with their rich marine life and historical value. The island also boasts proudly many facilities for golfing, angling, and yachting, for water sports and walking and for diving and hill climbing. Historical culture abounds with a diverse array of past and futuristic religious mosques, temples and churches, historical buildings from the days of the British Empire and the Japanese Occupation, sites of scenic beauty and breathtaking views make up an Island that just calls for the tourist to visit.
Sadly though the place is like a ghost town, deserted and lying to waste? Yet it retains hope through the clean streets and the flower beds that are weeded carefully, the beaches that are scrubbed clean, the water sport equipment that is displayed ready and eager, the fully equipped and well maintained harbor, the colorful shops that open late and the hotels that offer comfort and relaxation. It is all there in Labuan: except for the holidaymakers themselves.
Labuan was part of the Majapahit Empire until its collapse in the 14th century. Then it was ruled by the Sultan of Brunei and until 1846 when it was ceded to the British. As a strategic refueling point for the British Steamships it was declared a free port and became the center for British Operations in the Far East. It became a significant coal mining center of the then British Empire and was used as the base for combating piracy in Brunei Bay. The main town of the Island was named Victoria after Queen Victoria and still retains much of the influence of the time. During the Second World War and during the Japanese Occupation the Island was renamed Maida Island as part of Greater Sabah and then in 1963 it joined Malaysia and was subsequently declared Federal Territory in 1984.
The main town today is known as Bandar Labuan. More than 50% of the Islands 80,000 population claim Brunei-Malay descendants, with the remainder mostly claiming Java origins or are local Chinese and immigrant Filipinos and Indonesians.
In 1990 Labuan was declared an International Offshore Financial Center offering the serious advantage over its European Counterparts as being cheaper due to its low cost environment in terms of physical facilities and professional fees. It was thus declared such due to its close and central location to Singapore, Vietnam, Taiwan, and other South East Asian countries, due to the fact that it is the home to the only deep water anchorage that Malaysia has and due to its proximity with the large and plentiful offshore Oil and Gas fields in Brunei Bay and surrounding areas.
During the weekends the city lights up. Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays give to Labuan a sense of purpose, the shops gain bargain seekers, the sports equipment gets used and the hotel rooms end up knee deep in discarded pool towels, in goods bought and clothes worn as the weekend is enjoyed and lived to the full. By Monday all is silent again as the weekend holidaymakers return home leaving the city empty and in want. This mass weekend influx is from the neighboring state of Brunei, a rich and wealthy nation that keeps Labuan alive and in hope through the money that they spend during the weekend period. Without them Labuan would have long since slipped under the waves and have returned to another silent and desolate Island without future.
But during the week the place is desolate. Five star hotels swarming with liveried waiters and staff eager to please look after the lone customer that sits at the bar, hopeful that he will order another drink, praying that he will eat in the hotel restaurant tonight and tripping over themselves in their rush to provide service. Cooks peer hopefully out from behind kitchen doors, unwrapping food and rewrapping it as the lone customer decides to eat out. Bored cleaners chat in corners with unsullied mops having long since cleaned the one room that needed it and the few others that did not. Brightly lit shops with doors flung open wide beckon to empty streets?, music blares invitingly from a myriad of pubs and discothèques but into silent space and taxi drivers fall asleep in unused vehicles whilst street vendors shout their wares to each other if only to keep in practice.
The city lies ready and waiting like a lion waiting to pounce, filled with potential and opportunity. But is it going to happen?
Ieuan Dolby Author and Webmaster of http://www.seadolby.com
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Published on 3/16/03