A culinary gem in the Mews
GEORGE TOWN, July 26 — Muntri Street (Lebuh Muntri) in town is said to have been named after the 19th century Menteri of Larut, Ngah Ibrahim. In Hokkien,it is known as Lam Wah Ee Kay (Lam Wah Ee Street), because the eponymous hospital, now located off Green Lane, started life here in 1883.
This road, which joins Jalan Penang to Love Lane, has some of the best-preserved Straits eclectic houses in George Town. During the late 19th century,the horses that drew the carriages of the rich folk who lived nearby were stabled here. About halfway down is a little mews where the carriages themselves were housed in a deep, two-storey building.
“The drivers and staff were quartered above,” explained Chris Ong, international award-winning hotelier and owner of boutique hotel Muntri Mews. “During the Edwardian period (1920s), they were converted into garages for cars.” After World War II, it deteriorated into slum housing for trishaw drivers.
Chris bought the Grade 2 listed building in 2009,and with typical flair and aplomb, converted it into the charming boutique hotel it is today. He’s managed to retain the old yet imbue it with a contemporary ambience.
The ground floor Mews Café, with its simple, marble-topped tables and stools indoors, is a sort of a cross between an old-fashioned kopitiam (coffee shop) and a trendy chill-out place, popular with locals and out-of-towners alike. Outside, it is kitted out with comfortable outdoor furniture, and makes for a calm oasis in the middle of noisy and bustling George Town.
The small, pork-and-MSG-free menu was put together by Chris himself, and consists of a mix of local and international fare which he personally favours. “It is my passion,” he declared. “This is my hang-out, and I want to eat good food.”
Since the café started a year ago, the menu has slowly evolved to what it is today. “I analyse the sales closely, and whatever doesn’t sell is removed,” added the former investment banker, who is also keen to help the local community, which, with the advent of establishments such as his, is currently undergoing a revival of sorts.
“As far as possible, all the ingredients are sourced and bought locally.” Everything is prepared fresh daily.
Staples like his “Nyonya Nasi Lemak,” “Nyonya Laksa Lemak” and his personal favourite and what he reckons is his bestseller, “Helen’s Curry Mee” (named, sadly, not after this writer but the mother of his business partner who used to cook and sell this hawker favourite, and who continues to make her special “rempah” for them) remain, and indeed, have become Mews signatures.
“They are dishes that people come here specially for,” he said.
With the advent of Chef Mohd Ari, affectionately known as Nasri, 37, from Baling in Kedah on board, however, there is now an added depth to the menu: he specialises in traditional Malay food.
There’s “Beef Rendang” (dry beef curry), “Ikan Bakar” (grilled fish), or a daily “Melayu Platter” which will depend on what he feels like cooking that day! Each is accompanied by pickles and other condiments, and presented in a contemporary, attractive style on round wooden platters lined with banana leaves.
The younger generation though prefer trendier food, so he’s included some Western dishes like home-made (fried) gnocchi, pastas, salads and daily specials.
Desserts are written up on a chalk board,and can be local, Western or both; so it could be “Sago Gula Melaka,” sweet, creamy “pengat” made with soft bananas, yam and sweet potato or a Mixed Fruit Crumble. “We are also including Serawa,” he said, “a traditional Malay dessert made with seasonal fruit.”
Mews Cafe starts serving from 7.30am, with breakfast, washed down with a good coffee which Chris considers absolutely essential. “I have a wonderful barista who takes his job very seriously.”