Give Us Our Daily Indian Bread
I did something this weekend I've always wanted to do: I made Indian flat bread. I know, that's like saying I prepared "fish;" there are more types of Indian bread than you can count on both hands, an extensive umbrella category that includes north-south India variations as well as immigrant versions in neighboring Pakistan, Malaysia and Singapore, and further afield in Guyana and Trinidad, in the eastern Caribbean.
For most Westerners, Indian bread means naan, the pillowy leavened rounds baked in a tandoor oven, which, according to Madhur Jaffrey in "From Curries to Kebabs," is a relatively recent addition to the ancient tradition of Vedic breads. "Delhi and most of India knew little of the tandoor or the naan until after the partition of India into India and Pakistan in 1947," writes Jaffrey. "At that time refugees from western Punjab came bearing portable ovens to make their daily bread."
Today's focus is on roti, one of several types of more traditional unleavened whole-wheat breads (versus naan, which is made from white flour and leavened either with a starter or with yeast), which, depending on the country and the cook, can be as thin as a "skin" or soft and pliable, closer to a pita. I would define Jaffrey's version, below, as a roti-chapati hybrid -- chapatis traditionally are made from very finely milled whole wheat "chapati flour" and tend to be thin and papery. Jaffrey's dough includes yogurt, which yields a softer result.
I have always wanted to see for myself just how easy (or not) Indian bread could be to make in my own kitchen. Unlike Western-style leavened loaves, this roti requires very little resting time, as little as 30 minutes. Translation: You can have homemade unleavened whole-wheat Indian bread ready for supper in an hour. If that sounds reasonable to you, then let's get this roti party started!
I tried my first batch on Saturday night with my friends D., C., and their two hairless Mexican dogs as an accompaniment to a pot of cilantro chicken curry. After griddling each piece of dough individually, D. transferred the rotis, one by one, to the microwave, where she "cooked" them for about 30 seconds to allow for a quick steam and resulting puff. As with fresh tortillas, the rotis like the enveloping warmth of a tea towel, which keeps their unleavened selves from getting hard.
We were delighted with the results, and because the dough was so easy to put together, I made a second batch last night to go with a chickpea curry (yes, I'll share the spicy curry details this week because it is too darn good to keep to myself -- and you can use canned chickpeas!). Once again, the dough came together in just 15 minutes, and I had beautifully griddled rounds in time for supper.
Honestly, I expected this to be a more elaborate project, requiring more of my energy and wits. Get out those cast-iron skillets and see what my fussin' is all about.
Recipe below the jump.
Today's Eco-Bite: Last week, The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) updated its national list of farmers markets, which has a new Web address. This list includes non-USDA-sponsored markets.
Madhur Jaffrey's Whole-Wheat "Roti"
Adapted from "From Curries to Kebabs" by Madhur Jaffrey
1 cup whole-wheat flour, plus more for dusting (I used white wheat flour with success)
1/3 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon plain whole-fat yogurt
1/2 cup warm water, minus 1 tablespoon
butter or ghee for serving (optional)
Combine flour, salt, baking soda and yogurt in a mixing bowl with a rubber spatula or with your hands, making sure ingredients are integrated. Add warm water, mixing into a soft dough.
Turn out dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead (press, fold, turn) for about 10 minutes. Dough will be soft and somewhat springy. Place dough in a bowl covered with a damp towel. Allow to sit for at least 30 minutes (it's okay to leave it sit for longer, if necessary).
Heat a cast-iron skillet (at least 9 inches in diameter) or a tava (aka tawah), a slightly concave disc-shaped griddle. Allow it to get hot.
Divide dough into four balls. Work with each ball one at a time, keeping the remaining balls covered. Dust work surface with flour and roll out ball into a six-inch round. Pick up roti and slap between your palms to dust off extra flour. Slap onto hot cooking surface. Cook for five seconds. Flip it over. Cook second side for five seconds. Continue to flip on each side at least six times.
Place roti in a microwave oven and cook it for 30 seconds or until slightly puffed. Remove and keep covered in a tea towel. You may add butter or ghee at this time.
Keep pan hot; if necessary, wipe surface with a slightly damp paper towel to remove remaining flour. Roll out second dough ball and repeat process.
By Kim ODonnel |
April 7, 2008; 10:12 AM ET
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