So at last I have left Malaysia. I re-entered Singapore to fly to Bali through the 'back door' - by train from Kuala Lumpur. Anyone who has been in Singapore airport will know that it epitomises the country, flash, efficient, air-con, expensive shops. By contrast the railway station is scruffy, not many facilities and a roadside-type canteen. This puzzled me until I was told that all Singaporeans fly and in fact the station belongs to Malaysia.
I returned briefly to my nephew's to pick up a few things. I had bought a sports bag for those times when I go off for just a few days, and somehow this has become full as well. I haven't bought much - only another pair of shorts, two T-shirts, a pair of flip flops, a second novel, and a few toilet rolls - this was a mistake as I asked for one in a market and was sold one pack of 12. I've taken the middles out and did abandon some. . . perhaps I am beginning to see how I have filled another bag. Oh and I forgot the dozen hotel soaps.
With all my bags I arrived in Bali at 1am. Despite all the warnings from emailers I stayed in Kuta that night as it was so near. Having had a few late nights and not getting to bed that night until after 2am, I got the shock of my life when I woke the next day to find it was 2pm. The staff were polite enough to laugh when I asked if it was too late for breakfast. A wander through Kuta, crowded with touts, bronzed surfers, and pink Europeans led me straight to the travel office to book a ticket to Ubud, where I am now.
Still fairly touristy, Ubud is much more laid back than Kuta with far fewer touts. Wandering around the shops full of paintings, wood carvings, batik and knick-knacks can fill many an hour. There is a dance show every evening and I went to see the Larong dance, the more formal court dancing with wonderful costumes. It was great. I met up with American Ed, my neighbour in the lovely homestay where I am lodging, and James and Dominique, from NZ and France, all with years of being on the road around the world with lots of stories and tips. We hired a car at a ridiculous price (times are not good in Bali) and went up to the rim of the volcano, Mt. Batur and the lake beside. We were just in time to admire the view before the clouds came over and it rained. The touts here were terrible, pulling at your arm and even shouting through the door of the restaurant.
We found a deserted road that skirted the lake through a layer of solidified lava. Feeling free of sellers we got out of the car to enjoy the views at leisure. Out of nowhere came a motorbike, complete with driver and collection of paintings. How do they do it? - radar, short wave radios, acute sense of the smell of tourists?
We carried on to some hot springs. Here an entrepreneur had built a luxury hotel, lovely swimming pool and a complex of discrete thatched jacuzzis - all except the swimming pool now abandoned and gradually decaying - perhaps a reflection of how Bali has been hit by the recent political and economic troubles of the region. A few desperate locals tried to sell us some shorts, crisps or a massage, but were good humoured enough when we declined. Driving back off the main roads you begin to see the appeal of Bali, with the rice fields, forests and little villages.
On Tuesday I rented a rather dubious mountain bike and headed off. I couldn't seem to find a way off the scary main road and found myself by accident at the Neka museum, a beautifully laid out art gallery showing the development of Balinese art. I loved the traditional paintings but was also impressed by the work of new young artists, retaining a distinct Balinese style despite European influences. I did then manage to find some back roads, often walking down as well as up the very steep hills, even finding a little cafe where they did not speak English (fortunately Coke is universal). An enjoyable, if hot and tiring day. I wonder if anyone at home has repaired my bike, immobile for three years.
Thinking of home, I am increasingly struck by how much poorer and yet much happier the people seem in Asia. Everywhere I have been the people all smile and say hello, the youngsters career about joyfully on their scooters and motorbikes with no sign of disaffection, even the babies and toddlers, always up very late, rarely seem to cry. It seems such a contrast to the stress and rush of people in England, with road rage and Friday night drunken brawls. Maybe it is the sunshine, or maybe the knowledge that Western wealth is virtually unattainable makes them more content with their lot. I do not know. I only know it is a pleasure to be among them.
On Thursday poor Ed was struck down with 'Bali belly'. I think he must have eaten the same as Bruce who has been poorly this week and would not have his photo taken when not looking his best. Typical male - they are much vainer than us women.
Leaving Ed with stocks of bottled water, sweet tea and aspirin, I went on the 'sunset tour' of west Bali. This was a visit to a rice terrace, the Royal Family Temple at Mengwi, a batik studio, where I was sorely tempted to spend lots of money, and the Holy Monkey forest, swarming with greedy monkeys, bats and tourists. I decided I had taken enough monkey photos and went for the bats. The last stop was the Tanah Lot temples, perched on the cliffs above volcanic rocks and sand, battered by huge rollers. Hundreds of tourists jockeyed for positions to take photographs of the stunning sunset - me included.
At last I feel I am getting to grips with Bali. Initially the crowds and touts, umpteen rows of bamboo wind chimes and wooden cats made it disappointing, but as the week has gone on and you see the ordinary Balinese at work in the countryside, notice the little rice offerings outside every shop and house, see the wonderful art still vibrant, you come to appreciate that there is more to Bali than tourism. It is still a beautiful place and its native culture still very much alive.
Having recharged my batteries in Ubud these last few days, I may round it off with a massage this afternoon, if I can find somewhere that looks OK. Tomorrow I am setting off to the east and north of the island, following email advice - thanks everyone.
All you emailers who promised advice on Australia, now is the time. I fly to Darwin next Friday. I am going to try and change the next flight which is from Darwin to Sydney two weeks later. If I can't, I need a two-week trip from Darwin that allows me to see as much as possible. Any suggestions - should I go east, west or south?
I hope spring has arrived back home - I will miss the daffodils.