They find a place around the side of Nice Cathedral, an unpretentious Niçoise establishment with a chalkboard menu and paper cloth-covered tables lining the worn cobbles outside. They order plates to share: petit farci, chickpea fries, olives, tourte aux blettes. They drink cold beer and watch the city move around them: middle-aged tourists with their socks and sandals and maps, locals on their lunch breaks, young couples on dates and parents trying to amuse their children.