All I can say is,
if, in the future, and for all time, it is not taken for a precedent, and
made an important part of the Patriotic Coronation ceremony, the Blue
Mountaineers will prove themselves to be a much more stupid people than
they seem at present to be. The conclusion of the Coronation festivities was a time of unalloyed joy. It was the banquet given to the King and Queen by the nation; the guests
of the nation were included in the royal party. It was a unique
ceremony. Fancy a picnic-party of a hundred thousand persons, nearly all
men. There must have been made beforehand vast and elaborate
preparations, ramifying through the whole nation. Each section had
brought provisions sufficient for their own consumption in addition to
several special dishes for the guest-tables; but the contribution of each
section was not consumed by its own members. It was evidently a part of the scheme that all should derive from a
common stock, so that the feeling of brotherhood and common property
should be preserved in this monumental fashion. The guest-tables were the only tables to be seen. The bulk of the
feasters sat on the ground. The tables were brought forward by the men
themselves--no such thing as domestic service was known on this day--from
a wood close at hand, where they and the chairs had been placed in
readiness. The linen and crockery used had been sent for the purpose
from the households of every town and village. The flowers were plucked
in the mountains early that morning by the children, and the gold and
silver plate used for adornment were supplied from the churches. Each
dish at the guest-tables was served by the men of each section in turn. Over the whole array seemed to be spread an atmosphere of joyousness, of
peace, of brotherhood. It would be impossible to adequately describe
that amazing scene, a whole nation of splendid men surrounding their new
King and Queen, loving to honour and serve them. Scattered about through
that vast crowd were groups of musicians, chosen from amongst themselves. The space covered by this titanic picnic was so vast that there were few
spots from which you could hear music proceeding from different quarters. After dinner we all sat and smoked; the music became rather vocal than
instrumental--indeed, presently we did not hear the sound of any
instrument at all. Only knowing a few words of Balkan, I could not
follow the meanings of the songs, but I gathered that they were all
legendary or historical. To those who could understand, as I was
informed by my tutelary young friend, who stayed beside me the whole of
this memorable day, we were listening to the history of the Land of the
Blue Mountains in ballad form. Somewhere or other throughout that vast
concourse each notable record of ten centuries was being told to eager
ears. It was now late in the day. Slowly the sun had been dropping down over
the Calabrian Mountains, and the glamorous twilight was stealing over the
immediate scene. No one seemed to notice the coming of the dark, which
stole down on us with an unspeakable mystery. For long we sat still, the
clatter of many tongues becoming stilled into the witchery of the scene. Lower the sun sank, till only the ruddiness of the afterglow lit the
expanse with rosy light; then this failed in turn, and the night shut
down quickly. At last, when we could just discern the faces close to us, a simultaneous
movement began. Lights began to flash out in places all over the
hillside. At first these seemed as tiny as glow-worms seen in a summer
wood, but by degrees they grew till the space was set with little circles
of light. These in turn grew and grew in both number and strength. Flames began to leap out from piles of wood, torches were lighted and
held high. Then the music began again, softly at first, but then louder
as the musicians began to gather to the centre, where sat the King and
Queen. The music was wild and semi-barbaric, but full of sweet melody. It somehow seemed to bring before us a distant past; one and all,
according to the strength of our imagination and the volume of our
knowledge, saw episodes and phases of bygone history come before us. There was a wonderful rhythmic, almost choric, force in the time kept,
which made it almost impossible to sit still. It was an invitation to
the dance such as I had never before heard in any nation or at any time. Then the lights began to gather round. Once more the mountaineers took
something of the same formation as at the crowning. Where the royal
party sat was a level mead, with crisp, short grass, and round it what
one might well call the Ring of the Nation was formed. The music grew louder. Each mountaineer who had not a lit torch already
lighted one, and the whole rising hillside was a glory of light. The
Queen rose, and the King an instant after. As they rose men stepped
forward and carried away their chairs, or rather thrones. The Queen gave
the King her hand--this is, it seems, the privilege of the wife as
distinguished from any other woman. Their feet took the time of the
music, and they moved into the centre of the ring. That dance was another thing to remember, won from the haunting memories
of that strange day. At first the King and Queen danced all alone. They
began with stately movement, but as the music quickened their feet kept
time, and the swing of their bodies with movements kept growing more and
more ecstatic at every beat till, in true Balkan fashion, the dance
became a very agony of passionate movement. At this point the music slowed down again, and the mountaineers began to
join in the dance. At first slowly, one by one, they joined in, the
Vladika and the higher priests leading; then everywhere the whole vast
crowd began to dance, till the earth around us seemed to shake. The
lights quivered, flickered, blazed out again, and rose and fell as that
hundred thousand men, each holding a torch, rose and fell with the rhythm
of the dance. Quicker, quicker grew the music, faster grew the rushing
and pounding of the feet, till the whole nation seemed now in an ecstasy. I stood near the Vladika, and in the midst of this final wildness I saw
him draw from his belt a short, thin flute; then he put it to his lips
and blew a single note--a fierce, sharp note, which pierced the volume of
sound more surely than would the thunder of a cannon-shot. On the
instant everywhere each man put his torch under his foot. There was complete and immediate darkness, for the fires, which had by
now fallen low, had evidently been trodden out in the measure of the
dance. The music still kept in its rhythmic beat, but slower than it had
yet been. Little by little this beat was pointed and emphasized by the
clapping of hands--at first only a few, but spreading till everyone
present was beating hands to the slow music in the darkness. This lasted
a little while, during which, looking round, I noticed a faint light
beginning to steal up behind the hills. The moon was rising.