Copyright 2010 The San Francisco Chronicle In the height of summer, San Francisco and most bayfront neighbors could be called the land of the last-minute dinner party. Cooks in other parts of the country might consider a late July evening the perfect time for a barbecue under the stars, but we know better. With a blanket of fog ready to steamroll the bay at any given moment, it's virtually impossible to plan ahead. The few warm days are usually spent lounging at the beach, picnicking in the park or heading out for a hike - not exactly optimal for prepping a major meal. However, having one or two fun elements already made - condiments, for example - makes it possible to assemble a guest-worthy meal quickly by simply throwing some meat or vegetables on the grill or into the grill pan. Most refrigerators are already stocked with mustards, ketchup, soy sauce or syrup, but unique, seasonal additions are the most interesting. Whether it's a pickled vegetable relish, a fruit-laden mostarda or a more traditional barbecue sauce, these finishing touches can be used to elevate and complete an array of dishes (see ideas on Page K4). The chimichurri, for example, gets a twist from summer herbs like basil and mint, and can be used to enhance meats like sliced, grilled skirt steak, which can be cooked in minutes. The brilliant green color will fade as the sauce sits, but generous hits of sherry vinegar and lemon juice keep the flavors bright. Vinegar also helps flavor a peach mostarda, an Italian-style condiment that's great on most cooked meats. Less a traditional mustard than a tangy fruit cooked in its own syrup, the rustic chutneylike sauce can be adapted to almost any summer fruit, from cherries to plums. With such a rich bounty of summer produce, it's easy to improve even the most basic sauces. Fresh heirloom tomatoes just entering peak season, for example, lift a more traditional tomato-based barbecue sauce. Rubbing the tomatoes along the large holes of a box grater is an easy way to remove the skins, resulting in a light puree that cooks down with brown sugar, vinegar and spices. You can add freshly diced tomatoes at the end for a chunkier texture. The fig syrup was inspired by a thick fig honey that lives in my refrigerator year-round. It's direct from southern Italy, where my husband's grandparents harvest fresh figs from their trees and cook it down into a dark, viscous sauce. Their fruit has so much natural sugar that it's able to reach a honey-like consistency; here, even ripe fruit needs a little help from a handful of sugar. It doesn't thicken to the same viscosity so we've dubbed it a syrup, but the flavors are still deeply figgy, perfect for drizzling over everything from ice cream to salad. The sugars - both natural and added - allow the syrup to stay usable for a long time. In fact, to hang out in the fridge more than a day or two, condiments need some kind of preserving method - either a good dose of vinegar, sugar, citrus or salt - to keep things fresh and vibrant. Bear in mind that packing them to last will require more than a loose cover of plastic wrap over a bowl. These will do better if the plastic is pressed directly onto the surface of the sauces, then tightly stored in an airtight container that's been secured again in plastic wrap or foil. The condiments will last anywhere from a week - as in the case of the chimichurri - to months. In that time, fingers crossed that we see at least a few warm days for a last minute, outdoor dinner party. Recipes and tips: K4 -------------------------------------------------- Heirloom Tomato Barbecue Sauce Makes 4 to 5 cups This tomato-based sauce offers a market fresh take on a traditional barbecue sauce. Kick up the heat by adding more cayenne pepper, if you like. It will last in the fridge for 2 weeks, but stir in some fresh diced tomatoes right before serving if you're holding it for a long time. 5 pounds heirloom tomatoes, mixed colors 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1 medium-size yellow onion, diced 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste 1/4 cup cider vinegar 1/3 cup packed brown sugar 1 tablespoon dry mustard 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 1/2-1 teaspoon cayenne pepper Kosher salt, to taste Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste Instructions: Chop 1/3 of the tomatoes into medium dice, and set aside. Using the large holes of a box grater set over a bowl, grate the remaining tomatoes, discarding the skins as you go. You should be left with about 3 to 4 cups of tomato puree. Set aside. In a large sauce pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add the garlic and the onion, and saute until the onion is softened and slightly translucent, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the reserved tomato puree, the tomato paste, vinegar, brown sugar, mustard, paprika and cayenne pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for about 20 to 25 minutes, until the sauce has thickened slightly and the flavors have infused. Remove from heat, and puree sauce in a blender until mostly smooth. Return to the pot and set back on the stove over medium-low heat. Stir in the reserved heirloom tomatoes, and simmer until the tomatoes have just begun to break down, about 10 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and add a squeeze of lemon to brighten the sauce, if desired. Use immediately, or cool to room temperature, then store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. -------------------------------------------------- Summer Herb Chimichurri Makes 1 1/2 to 2 cups Though it will lose some if its brilliant green color, the vinegar and lemon juice in this herb-based sauce will allow it to last, refrigerated, for at least a week. Feel free to substitute other favorite herbs, like fresh oregano, if desired. 3 cloves garlic, peeled 1/2 large shallot, peeled 1 1/2 cups packed parsley leaves 1 1/2 cups packed basil leaves 3/4 cup packed mint leaves 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/2 small red onion, minced Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste Instructions: Using the blade attachment of a food processor, chop the garlic, shallot, herbs, vinegar and lemon juice until well combined and slightly chunky. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil through the tube in a steady stream until the sauce is well blended and the herbs are finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the red onion, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, or transfer to a covered container and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the sauce. Cover and refrigerate up to 1 week. -------------------------------------------------- Peach Mostarda Makes 4 cups This Italian-inspired condiment has mustard flavorings, but is more of a vinegar-spiked syrup made from fresh fruit. You can add any stone fruit into this recipe, but we love the rosy hue that peaches lend to the sauce as they cook down. If you're going to store this before using, stir in some freshly chopped peaches before serving. 3 pounds peaches 1 cup sugar 1 1/4 cups water 1/4 cup cider vinegar 1-inch piece peeled ginger 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes 3 crushed garlic cloves 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons brown mustard seeds Kosher salt, to taste Instructions: Pit the peaches, cut each half though the middle and then cut into 1-inch chunks. Set aside. In a saucepan, combine the sugar, water, vinegar, ginger, red pepper flakes and garlic. Bring to a boil over medium heat, gently stir in the peaches and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook at a gentle simmer until peaches look slightly translucent and begin to soften, about 5 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift out the peaches and put into a heat-proof container. Discard any large pieces of garlic and the ginger. Bring the syrup back up to a boil, then lower heat to a simmer and whisk in the mustard and the mustard seeds. Cook until the liquid has reduced enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon, about 8 to 10 minutes. Pour over the peaches, gently stir to combine, and let sit at room temperature until mostly cooled. Serve immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container up to 1 week. -------------------------------------------------- Pickled Pepper & Corn Relish Makes 3 to 4 cups Preserve fresh corn and red peppers using this cumin and oregano-flavored brine. As it sits, the relish will get a little more viscous, so it's best to at least hold it overnight. It will keep in the refrigerator without much loss of quality for 1 to 2 weeks. 1 cup white wine vinegar 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup water 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 3 large red peppers, seeded and minced Kernels from 3 ears of corn Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste Instructions: Bring the vinegar, sugar, water, oregano and cumin to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer for about 15 minutes, until the flavors have infused and syrup has thickened slightly. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and peppers, season to taste with salt, and cook for about 5 minutes, until peppers have softened slightly but still retain some crunch. Add the corn and cook for another minute. Place the vegetables into a non-reactive heatproof container, and pour in the syrup. Stir to combine, season to taste with salt and cool to room temperature. Cover tightly, and refrigerate overnight before using, is possible. -------------------------------------------------- Fig Syrup Makes about 1 1/2 cups Ultra-ripe figs are cooked down into syrup that will last for several weeks in the refrigerator. The recipe takes time to cook, but is incredibly simple. You may need to adjust the sugar depending on the sweetness of the fruit. 4 pints ripe figs 1/2-3/4 cup sugar Instructions: Place the figs and the sugar in a heavy-bottomed pot, and add water to cover by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat and cook at a very low simmer until the water has turned a dark eggplant color and has thickened slightly, about 2 hours. Place a cheesecloth or tea towel-lined strainer over a bowl, and pour the figs and liquid through. Close the cloth or towel around the figs and squeeze tightly to drain out as much liquid as possible. Weight down the figs with a plate and a couple of cans, and let drain for at least 1 to 2 hours at room temperature. Discard figs (or snack on them), and return the fig liquid to a pot on the stove. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for another 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the liquid has reduced to about 1 1/2 cups and has the consistency of maple syrup. Use immediately or refrigerate. The syrup will continue to thicken slightly as it cools. -------------------------------------------------- Heirloom Tomato Barbecue Sauce -- Brush over chicken and grill, basting occasionally with more sauce. Serve extra chunky sauce on the side. -- Serve with other meats, like brisket or grilled steak. -- Skewer seasoned shrimp, brush with the sauce, and grill until lightly golden and just cooked through. Serve with more sauce on the side for dipping. -- Use as a condiment to top hot dogs or grilled sausages. -- Shred rotisserie or other leftover chicken, toss with the sauce, and pile onto a soft, sweet bun with coleslaw for a pulled chicken sandwich. You can do the same with shredded pork. Summer Herb Chimichurri -- Serve over grilled and sliced flank or skirt steak. -- Mix with homemade or store-bought mayonnaise to make a 'chimichurri aioli.' Serve with grilled potatoes or other grilled vegetables for dipping. -- For a large dinner party, rub over the top of a whole side of salmon and slow roast in the oven. The same can be done with smaller fillets. -- Whisk in a little extra olive oil to loosen the chimichurri and toss with seasonal greens for an herb-tinged salad. -- Rub over grilled lamb chops. Pickled Pepper & Corn Relish -- Serve over grilled or pan-seared white fish, like halibut or cod. -- Use as a salsa-type condiment to garnish fish or steak tacos. -- Spread onto your favorite hot dogs or grilled sausages. -- Mix with diced jicama, red onions, black beans and avocado, and serve over a bed of greens for a vibrant Mexican-style summer salad. -- Toss with a few other diced vegetables and your favorite grain - like brown rice, quinoa or farro - and stuff into scooped-out heirloom tomatoes. Cook just to heat through and serve with grilled meat or fish as a side dish. Peach Mostarda -- Serve with grilled pork chops or pork loin. -- Use as a compote over sliced, pan-seared duck breast or chicken. -- Place into a small bowl and serve as part of a cheese platter. -- Mash the fruit so that the mostarda is a little more spreadable. Add as a condiment on your favorite sandwich - it would go well with sliced turkey, salami or pork loin. -- Tuck a slightly sweet or spicy grilled Italian sausage into a bun and top with the mostarda. Fig Syrup -- Drizzle over vanilla ice cream and top with your favorite crumbled cookies or serve with biscotti. -- Stir into iced or hot tea for a unique sweetener. -- Toast or grill slices of rustic country bread, spread with mascarpone or ricotta cheese, and drizzle with the syrup. -- Bake or buy a pound cake or sponge cake, cut into slices and soak with some of the fig syrup. Top with fresh figs or other seasonal fruit and lightly sweetened whipped cream. -- Whisk with balsamic vinegar or lemon juice and olive oil, and season with salt and pepper to make a fig vinaigrette. Toss with seasonal greens, and garnish the salad with toasted nuts, fresh figs and cheese. 