Curious as well... Just did the conversions: 65 to 205 kph ~ 40 to 127 mph, video time ~:07 to ~:17 sec. on a car putting down 450Hp/487Tq. I've not followed the 60-130s much, is this <10 second time significant, or is just the lack of slipping the significance?

~Nate

I was just showing that the shifts are firm and that I'm not slipping at these power levels. Once I get a Vbox, I'll do some 60-130 runs. Also believe I need to shift a little bit earlier in 4th and 5th to be in the peak power range.

I was just showing that the shifts are firm and that I'm not slipping at these power levels. Once I get a Vbox, I'll do some 60-130 runs. Also believe I need to shift a little bit earlier in 4th and 5th to be in the peak power range.

right.. but the time it takes to do that, is not indicting your running anymore power than normal FBO cars.. so there wouldnt BE an issue..

@BuraQ seems like you havent done anything significant, i mean a JB car out trapped you, using your "old" technique,

I was just showing that the shifts are firm and that I'm not slipping at these power levels. Once I get a Vbox, I'll do some 60-130 runs. Also believe I need to shift a little bit earlier in 4th and 5th to be in the peak power range.

Get dyno'd & check your powerband. Most Stock Turbo N54s leave the powerband at 6k (which puts them right back in the meat of the boost curve), can't speak to RBs/Vargas Stage 2+3s/Single Turbos

@Sticky: I also have the SSP 700HP clucth pack Viton seals and SSP alu oil pan. I am also waiting for Kris to exchange my clutch pack to the new, not so aggressive 16 plate clucth pack.
(I will rebuilt my engine with the stock clutch pack and modified SSP alu pan and once i am done with the engine brake-in period with sligtly increased power than stoc and have a more clearer way on DCT upgrade i will modify my tranny.

I know the reasons, why SSP alu pan has oil leakage. As i am located at Europe/Hungary (overseas to SSP), for me its cheaper and quicker to modify the alu pan and fabricate some well designed Countersunk screw (14 pcs to be exatly). And some baffles are also needed into the alu oil pan.

From an outsider's perspective, this says a lot about the quality/customer service at SSP. It is obvious they are aware of the issue with the pan, and you will fix yours on your own which is fine, but the minimum SSP should do is replace the oil pan free of charge with one that does not leak.

They should also stop selling defective pans. I wonder how many leaking pans they have sold?

I know the reasons, why SSP alu pan has oil leakage. As i am located at Europe/Hungary (overseas to SSP), for me its cheaper and quicker to modify the alu pan and fabricate some well designed Countersunk screw (14 pcs to be exatly). And some baffles are also needed into the alu oil pan.

I had to modify my oil pan as well but I would just like my OEM back not sure why Kris has it and hasn't sent it back to me. Not sure why he has any of my parts any longer to be honest.

From an outsider's perspective, this says a lot about the quality/customer service at SSP. It is obvious they are aware of the issue with the pan, and you will fix yours on your own which is fine, but the minimum SSP should do is replace the oil pan free of charge with one that does not leak.

They should also stop selling defective pans. I wonder how many leaking pans they have sold?

I find this very interesting actually. @BuraQ, given what you've reported I think your car might do really well by stepping up to a Wavetrac or Quaife 3.08. It'd enhance your gearing advantage quite a bit AND, the part that I think is "interesting" is, your final drive and your driveshaft might be safer with that pinion/ring gear setup. If you recall a while back I tried that 2.56 Quaife on my car (OEM 335is DCT final drive gear). After only a few launches my driveshaft got damaged along with the 2.56 pinion. With my first 3.08 Wavetrac I never had this issue, hundreds upon hundreds of runs. I sold it to get the 2.56 Quaife. Then, when my 2.56 Quaife pinion and driveshaft got damaged, I went back to another (used) Wavetrac 3.08 unit. That's what I have on the car right now and have beaten on it senseless without any issues again. I wonder if there's something about that which could help on a DCT car along with a clear gearing advantage which could put you in the ballpark with M3's DCT gearing hmmmmmm...

I find this very interesting actually. @BuraQ, given what you've reported I think your car might do really well by stepping up to a Wavetrac or Quaife 3.08. It'd enhance your gearing advantage quite a bit AND, the part that I think is "interesting" is, your final drive and your driveshaft might be safer with that pinion/ring gear setup. If you recall a while back I tried that 2.56 Quaife on my car (OEM 335is DCT final drive gear). After only a few launches my driveshaft got damaged along with the 2.56 pinion. With my first 3.08 Wavetrac I never had this issue, hundreds upon hundreds of runs. I sold it to get the 2.56 Quaife. Then, when my 2.56 Quaife pinion and driveshaft got damaged, I went back to another (used) Wavetrac 3.08 unit. That's what I have on the car right now and have beaten on it senseless without any issues again. I wonder if there's something about that which could help on a DCT car along with a clear gearing advantage which could put you in the ballpark with M3's DCT gearing hmmmmmm...

Noted... instead of going back to a OEM diff, I might as well upgrade it. car is still drivable but I have to be gentle. Going back to stock tune helped out some with the vibration.