[{"text_idx": "#000000", "text": "\u201eKo\u0303rvadega\u201c po\u0303lled \u2013 Aprons with \u2018ears\u2019"}, {"text_idx": "#000001", "text": "Ro\u0303ivastusega seotud leiud muinasaja lo\u0303pu kalmetest on fragmentaarsed ja sageli raskesti mo\u0303istetavad. Neid detaile kokku klapitades u\u0308ritame taastada tervikpilti. See on nagu pusle, millest suurem osa tu\u0308kke on puudu. Iga uus leid annab juurde infokillu, mis sunnib varasema materjali juurde tagasi po\u0308o\u0308rduma ja seda uue pilguga vaatama. Nii muutuvad ka rekonstruktsioonid."}, {"text_idx": "#000002", "text": "2012\u20132014. aastal valmis meeskonnato\u0308o\u0308na Kukruse memme ro\u0303ivakomplekti rekonstruktsioon. Juba tookord olime kindlad, et see ei ole lo\u0303plik, vaid kajastab meie teadmisi sel hetkel. Kukruse memme uhkeim ro\u0303ivaese oli spiraaltorudest mustritega kaunistatud po\u0303ll. Selline po\u0303ll, mille pikiservad ja alla\u0308a\u0308r on metalliga kaunistatud, on olnud kaasas mitmetel Po\u0303hja-Eestis, Saaremaal ja La\u0308a\u0308nemaal 12.\u201313. sajandil maetud naistel."}, {"text_idx": "#000003", "text": "Meie esialgne na\u0308gemus Kukruse memme po\u0303llest: po\u0303lle pikiku\u0308lgedel ja allservas on kangale kinnitatud mustriribad ja lisaks on ro\u0303ivaeseme alumisele a\u0308a\u0308rele serv-servaga o\u0303mmeldud spiraaltorudega ko\u0303lapael. Ko\u0303ige all on omakorda no\u0308o\u0308rile lu\u0308kitud ro\u0303ngastest rivi. Our initial vision of the Kukruse apron: the long sides and the hem are adorned with spiral tube decorations placed on the fabric. In addition, a tablet-woven band with spiral tubes is sewn edge-to-edge to the hem, followed by a row of ringlets that finishes the garment\u2019s lower edge."}, {"text_idx": "#000004", "text": "Teatud detailid po\u0303lleleidudel ja\u0308id Kukruse rekonstruktsiooni valmimise ajal lahendamata. Na\u0308iteks olime ma\u0308rganud arusaamatut spiraalikestest lisamotiivi u\u0308he Loona po\u0303lle alumise serva all ja Kaberla kalmistu kaevamisjoonisel po\u0303lle nurgas. Kaks samalaadset \u201ekolmnurgakest\u201c avastati ka Lo\u0303havere ka\u0308sito\u0308o\u0308vakast. Need viimased rekonstrueerisime 2014. aastal rosetina."}, {"text_idx": "#000006", "text": "Sarnane mustrimotiiv Lo\u0303havere ka\u0308sito\u0308o\u0308vakast. Nende puhul ei saa siiski pa\u0308ris kindel olla, kas need olid mo\u0303eldud po\u0303lle nurgakaunistusteks. A similar decoration was discovered in the Lo\u0303havere craft and jewellery box. In this case, however, it is not entirely sure whether this was intended to use as an apron corner."}, {"text_idx": "#000007", "text": "Uue teadmise hilisrauaaja po\u0303llede va\u0308ljana\u0308gemisest andis Valjala matuse 15b po\u0303lle puhastamine ja uurimine, millest ra\u0308a\u0308gib u\u0308ks meie varasem blogipostitus. Selgus, et po\u0303lle pikiservade muster ei olnud kanga peal, vaid o\u0303mmeldi hoopis serv-servaga kanga ku\u0308lge, ja po\u0303lle alumistes nurkades olid kolmnurksed lisamotiivid. Viimaseid hakkasime hellitavalt nimetama \u201eko\u0303rvadeks\u201c. Edasine to\u0308o\u0308 Valjala leidudega na\u0308itas, et teised sama kalmistu po\u0303lled on samuti \u201eko\u0303rvadega\u201c, mis igal eksemplaril on erinevad. Samal ajal hakkasid \u201eko\u0303rvad\u201c ennast ilmutama ka Kukruse leidude u\u0308le vaatamisel. Seal on neist sa\u0308ilinud va\u0308ga va\u0308he \u2013 lahtiselt leitud spiraaltorukeste kogumeid po\u0303lle nurkade juures oli varem peetud mo\u0303nest teisest mustrist pudenenuteks. Nu\u0308u\u0308dsete teadmiste valguses vo\u0303ib siiski arvata, et \u201eko\u0303rvad\u201c olid to\u0303esti ka seal olemas. Seega on praegu ERMis sa\u0308ilitatav rekonstruktsioon juba vananenud."}, {"text_idx": "#000008", "text": "Ko\u0303ikidel Valjala po\u0303lledel olid alumistes nurkades kolmnurksed \u201eko\u0303rvad\u201c, ehkki muus osas on mustrid erinevad. Haualeidude po\u0303hjal ei ole alati selge, kuidas \u201eko\u0303rv\u201c po\u0303lle ku\u0308lge kinnitus. Joonis kujutab mustreid nii, nagu need paiknesid maa sees. Pildil on Valjala matuste 14 ja 15c po\u0303llemustrid. All Valjala aprons had triangular \u2018ears\u2019 in the lower corners, although each pattern differs. Based on the grave finds, it is not always clear how the \u2018ear\u2019 was attached to the apron. The figure shows the patterns as they were located in the ground. The apron patterns of Valjala graves nos. 14 and 15c."}, {"text_idx": "#000009", "text": "Loona po\u0303lle alla\u0308a\u0308re mustrikatkete la\u0308hem uurimine andis sellise tulemuse. A closer examination of the decoration fragments of Loona\u2019s apron hem reveals this result."}, {"text_idx": "#000010", "text": "Kukruse memme po\u0303llmustri esialgne ja uus rekonstruktsioonjoonis. The initial and new reconstruction drawing of the apron of Kukruse Lady."}, {"text_idx": "#000011", "text": "Karja ja Po\u0308ide kiriku skulptuuride po\u0303lledel selliseid detaile kujutatud ei ole. Nende dateering on haualeidudest veidi hilisem. Kas ei olnud \u201eko\u0303rvadega\u201c po\u0303lled siis enam moes vo\u0303i ei osanud uhket po\u0303lle kujutanud skulptor neid u\u0308ksikasju ta\u0308hele panna, ja\u0308a\u0308b muidugi teadmata."}, {"text_idx": "#000012", "text": "To\u0308o\u0308tuba, kus katsetasime Saaremaa po\u0303llede kaunistusi. The workshop where we tried to make the decorations of the Saaremaa 13th-century aprons."}, {"text_idx": "#000013", "text": "Finds related to clothing in the 12th\u201313th-century graves are fragmentary and often challenging to interpret. We attempt to restore the complete \u2018picture\u2019 based on these details, but it is like a puzzle with most pieces missing. Each new find can provide additional information, forcing you to return to the previous material and look at it again. This is how reconstructions change."}, {"text_idx": "#000014", "text": "The Kukruse Lady\u2019s dress reconstruction was completed in 2012\u20132014. Even then, we knew it was not final but reflected our current knowledge. The most luxurious item of this costume was an apron adorned with decorations made of tiny spiral tubes. This kind of apron, selvedges and lower hem decorated with metal is relatively common in the 12th\u201313th-century female burials in Northern Estonia, Saaremaa and La\u0308a\u0308nemaa."}, {"text_idx": "#000015", "text": "Some details of the apron decorations remained unresolved during the completion of the Kukruse reconstruction. For example, we noticed an additional decoration fragment of spiral tubes under the apron hem found in Loona and in the corner of the apron hem depicted on the drawing of a burial in Kaberla cemetery. Two similar \u201ctriangles\u201d were also discovered in the Lo\u0303havere craft and jewellery box. We reconstructed the latter as a rosette in 2014, believing they were just broken."}, {"text_idx": "#000016", "text": "New knowledge about the appearance of the 12th\u201313th-century aprons was provided by cleaning and examining the spiral tube decorations of Valjala burial 15b, discussed in one of our earlier blog posts. It turned out that the decorations on the long edges of the apron were not placed on the fabric but sewn edge-to-edge to the fabric. There were additional triangular motifs in the lower corners of the apron; we began to call the latter \u2018ears\u2019. Further work with the Valjala finds showed that other aprons from the same cemetery also have \u2018ears\u2019, differently designed in each case. At the same time, the \u2018ears\u2019 began to reveal themselves while reviewing Kukruse\u2019s finds. Not much is preserved there \u2013 clusters of spiral tubes found loose at the corners of the aprons were previously thought to be fallen from another pattern. However, in light of the current knowledge, it can be assumed that the \u2018ears\u2019 were really there. Thus, the Kukruse reconstruction currently preserved in Estonian National Museum is already outdated."}, {"text_idx": "#000017", "text": "Details, such as corner decorations, are not depicted on the aprons of the sculptures in the Karja and Po\u0308ide churches in Saaremaa. These figures have been dated slightly later than the grave finds. We do not know whether aprons with \u2018ears\u2019 were no longer in fashion or whether the craftsperson who depicted these beautiful aprons did not notice these details."}]