In general, I think this is my favorite book in the series so far. As is typically in the books in general, I find the first 400 pages or so to be slow and tedious, and the rest of the book turns into something i cannot put down. I love the characters, I love the way the story is told from their point of view and sequentially, and I love the world Martin has created. 
 But mostly, I love that I truly have no idea what will happen next. Since Martin has no respect for the idea of "main characters" and keeping them alive through the series, you never know when someone you like will be the next casualty and so you can't even begin to guess what will happen next.