The new Burberry has made its mark with Riccardo Tisci on board as Chief Creative Director. It began with a reworked logo and monogram, and then progressed to the see-now-buy strategy he debuted with the 24-hour product releases of his introductory collection. Tisci’s vision of the storied British label celebrates inclusivity. “It appeals to everyone no matter their age, their social standing, their race, their gender,” he shares. And its a theme that’s been largely consistent. His debut Spring/Summer 2019 collection “celebrated the heart and diversity of England” with its eclectic collection that combined elegant basics, red-carpet gowns and punk elements. Likewise, with his pre-fall 2019 collection, Tisci stuck to his mantra of appealing to the multi-generational family. What can we expect from the iconic British fashion house this fall/winter? We’re certain we’ll be seeing the signature Burberry palette of beige with classic trenchcoats in modern variations, outerwear offerings of parkas and jackets and the season’s ‘It’ bags, that’s hot on the heels of the new TB Bag (pictured in the Spring/Summer 2019 campaign above). Watch the video above on 18 February, Monday at 1am (Singapore time) to view the collection in real time.<doc-sep>Held at Tate Modern the set was divided into two sections with a contrast of luxury and grit, guest were given a gold or silver ticket. Gold ticket holders sat in luxe wooden paneled seats furnished with cream cushion, while silver ticket holders sat in a more industrial space with youths in hoodies and sweats climbing the surrounding scaffolding. The show started with a section that was dedicated to streetwear and modern daywear (perhaps inspired by Tisci’s time as a fashion student at Central Saint Martins in the 90’s). There was a strong reference to 90’s youth cultures, rave, grunge, buffalo, grime, and hip hop. Tisci was channeling British street style and showcased, sweatsuits, sneakers, and sport-jeresy’esque dresses. 90s street looks were followed by a formal section, Tisci showed the classic Burberry trench coat and, evening dresses in a wide spectrum of styles, from demure to party girl. The clothes were soft and feminine but were mixed with a tough attitude, strength and confidence. The collection played on the high/low aspects of design and explored tailoring, some pieces were soft and relaxed while other pieces were sharp and defined. Tisci also played with texture showing, puffa jackets, fringing, pleats, faux fur and feathers. There were also segments of transparency that was explored through layering. Accent colors of red and gold evoked regal connotations but the biggest success was Tisci’s development of the iconic ‘Burberry beige’. Taking the DNA of the Fashion House Tisci elevated the colour, presenting it in shades of camel, caramel, fawn, taupe and nudes, making tones of beige an exciting colour for formal and evening wear. Model Gigi Hadid walked the runway as did O.G veterans Natalia Vodianova, Stella Tennant and long time friend and muse Mariacarla Boscono. The soundtrack was created by M.I.A who curated a mashed-up soundscape of raps, beats and voice overs, “She says the same things as me, that we need to help young people to have their voice”. Tisci’s goal for Burberry is “including, not excluding. At Burberry you can buy very expensive luxury clothes, but at the same time I make sure there are tracksuits that kids can really buy. I know what it means to not be able to buy clothes from the designer you like,” Tisci “Burberry is a lifestyle. You can find both.” The collection explored contrast and perspective it was very powerful and freeing! With a modern viewpoint Tisci celebrated the very best of British heritage, taking classic Burberry aesthetics and making them new, Tisci is brining Burberry to a wider audience.<doc-sep>A Burberry show is about acting out what Britishness looks like, on the stage of London fashion week. France and Italy each have multiple powerhouse brands, but as the only British fashion brand listed on the FTSE100 index, Burberry stands for Britain. “To me Burberry isn’t just fashion, it’s everything about British life. It pretty much represents a country,” the designer Riccardo Tisci said backstage on Sunday after his second Burberry show. Tisci, who was born in Italy and spent much of his career in France, is bringing to Burberry the theatrical bent that made his Givenchy shows appointment-viewing at Paris fashion week. Following Kingdom, his debut show in September, his second Burberry outing was named with an equally Shakespearean flourish as Tempest. ‘Burberry is everything about British life,’ said Riccardo Tisci. Photograph: David Levene/The Guardian Arriving at Tate Modern, the audience found that those with gold tickets were divided on arrival from those with silver, and directed into two distinct spaces. One was plush, with guests seated in individual upholstered armchairs; the other raw and industrial with scaffolding and cube seating. As the lights went down, the theme music for News at Ten resounded through both spaces, followed by snippets of news reports of the early 1990s rave scene and the clash between the establishment and youth culture in the pre-Criminal Justice Act era. Quick Guide London fashion week Show London fashion week Started in the 1980s, London Fashion Week is organised by the British Fashion Council. It takes place four times a year, in February and September for womenswear and January and June for menswear. February showcases autumn and winter looks, while September’s focus is on the following spring and summer seasons Around 14,000 people attend each year, including press and buyers, and the designers exhibiting include major heritage brands as well as emerging talent. After the main event has ended, the 4-day London Fashion Week Festival takes place. This allows consumers and shoppers a chance to experience the shows and view collections. Was this helpful? Thank you for your feedback. Oversized puffer jackets in high-shine nylon were worn with check baseball caps and thick creeper-soled sneakers. With a soundtrack designed for the collection by MIA around classic 1990s tracks (1994’s Incredible by General Levy, for instance) the show brought rave culture faithfully back to life. There were oversized bumbags, slip dresses, track pants pooling around trainers. Backstage after the show, Tisci said that he had drawn on his memories of living in London “as a student, with no money” when he was 18. “I was very lucky to be here in the 90s. It was a great era – one of the best, I think. And I was here, and I was 18.” The concept for the two contrasting spaces, he said, was for one side to represent the British establishment, and the other side streetlife. “But both of them are Britain, both of them are part of the same culture, and Burberry lives in both of those worlds.” Check baseball caps were evident. Photograph: David Levene/The Guardian A year into his second stint living in London, he believes that “British kids these days don’t have the freedom that we had back when I was a student here. It’s a difficult time, and it’s not easy for them to express themselves. They are scared.” He was encouraged “and amazed, impressed” by the school student strike on Friday. “They are fighting for their rights. That’s amazing. It’s their future.” This was a collection in two parts. Photograph: David Levene/The Guardian Like his first show, this was a collection in two parts. Just as his first season morphed from pleated skirts into punk, this collection’s Shane Meadows-esque section segued into silk scarves and tailoring. The chic house codes of check and trench have an added frisson, thanks to Tisci’s bad-bourgeoisie twist. A trench coat comes with a faux-fur lining, like a parka; a blouse is painted with oysters, each one with a pearl stitched on. The street-style clothes had an authenticity from being rooted in Tisci’s own experience. Photograph: David Levene/The Guardian Successful Burberry shows connect with the audience by capturing something about British culture, and this one did that. The street-style clothes had an authenticity from being rooted in Tisci’s own experience, and lent excitement to the more sedate pieces. Christopher Bailey, Tisci’s predecessor at Burberry, made his Burberry sing by tapping into a vein of bookshoppish, cardigan-wearing bohemia hitherto unseen at a luxury brand. The new Burberry is very different, but underscored with the same sense of Britishness.<doc-sep>
Looks from the Burberry Fall 2019 collection. Photo: Courtesy of Burberry On Sunday evening, Riccardo Tisci presented his sophomore collection for Burberry at the Tate Modern by setting up two bespoke environments — one evoking structure and the other, rebellion. It was a fitting juxtaposition, granted the Italian designer is fascinated with class dynamics and continually emphasizes a more democratic vision for the British label; he wants people to come to the brand to buy a beautiful trench, just as much as he wants them to come for a hyped pair of trainers. The two runway setups were also a testament to Tisci's own past and connection to the U.K. "I will be forever grateful to London for being the city that opened my eyes and mind and gave me the freedom when I was young to discover who I truly am," the designer wrote in an Instagram caption following his Fall 2019 presentation. He also dedicated the show to "the youth of today, to them having the courage to scream for what they believe in, for them to find the beauty in expressing their voice." The show opened with youth-approved sneakers and a series of streetwear-leaning looks, punctuated by bold stripes and not-so-preppy polos made into mini skirts and dresses. There were hoodies, track pants, sleek leather jackets and shiny puffers, as well as a high fashion incarnation of mesh sports jerseys. Tisci once again proved he's a vanguard of the haute-streetwear movement by adding touches of lace, flared hems, chain link detailing and sparkly fringe to elevate pieces you'd expect to find in the closet of a cool British teen. The collection mimicked the soundtrack, which alternated between rap, a calming, instrumental tune and staticky news broadcasts. One part of the show quite literally interpreted the choppy nature of the background music with various cheetah prints and the label's signature checks piled on top of one another for a look that was a bit chaotic, perhaps echoing the current state of disillusionment in the U.K. as it prepares for the Brexit aftermath. In the latter half of the show, we met Burberry's customer that is less likely to be found at the club, and more likely to take royal style cues from the Duchess of Sussex. The beige brigade came out strong, with a camel-colored lineup of trench coats that were far from boring thanks to contrast leather piping. Tisci's more buttoned-up client will be pleased with the selection of silk blouses — many of which came with ties — and the assortment of knee-grazing skirts done in a subtle pleated pattern or in a light brown buttery leather. An emerald green puffer and a springy lime suit helped bring some life into the otherwise neutral color palette. Tisci's final sartorial statements came in the form of his familiar sensual eveningwear in fluid silhouettes. It was a small but sweet taste of what the Burberry girl can wear to a fancy function, after a long day of fighting for what she believes in. Click through the gallery below to see Burberry's Fall 2019 collection in full. 101 Gallery 101 Images Stay current on the latest trends, news and people shaping the fashion industry. Sign up for our daily newsletter