texts: tactics. A particularly well-used approach against land targets was to fly at high altitude with engines switched off, then dive and release the bombs at 1,000 ft (300 metres), then start the engines for a hasty departure. By August 1938 16 sorties per week were flown, in small formations of three with each aircraft carrying a ton of bombs.12 He 59s were lost in 1938 and 1939—three to night fighters. Losses were replaced by aircraft flown in from Mallorca, via Sardinia. At this time the unit operated two Heinkel He 115s and evaluated them. AS/88 operations in Spain were undermined by a lack of support services. The He 59 units had been transferred to the Luftwaffe by the Kriegsmarine yet the navy still stored the spares for the complex machine. The only engineering unit was based in Seville, permanently and was not transferred to meet operational needs. The aircraft had to be sent back to Germany.They were flown to Cadiz, dismantled and shipped; a process that lasted three months and often left the unit severely under resourced. In his first combat mission he destroyed the Campsa fuel depots in Valencia which had been a priority target for some time. <mask> became the first pilot to sink a ship using an air-dropped torpedo when he sank a cargo ship off Valencia harbour on 21 July 1938. The 4,798-ton freighter was named Thorpeness and British. It sank one nautical mile from Valencia. Francisco Franco informed the English that the ship had struck a mine. On 1 August 1938 <mask> was promoted to Major.In commanding in Spain, Harlinghausen became a pioneer of attacking ships accurately with bombs.

masks: Harlinghausen Harlinghausen


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 German aircraft—mainly Heinkel He 59 and Heinkel He 60s—sank 144 ships out of the 554 lost by the Republican forces. Before the fall of Barcelona in 1939, for example, German aircraft sank 30 ships and damaged scores more in the harbour. At the end of the war, which ended in a Nationalist victory for Franco, Hitler and Mussolini, AS/88 had been credited with 52 ships sunk. Nevertheless, the anti-shipping arm failed to achieve any strategic results in Spain. Harlinghausen continued to develop this neglected sphere in opposition to the Oberkommando der Luftwaffe. The high command remained aloof from naval air power matters because it did not foresee a war with the British Empire.<mask> left AS/88 to return the air war school at Gatow in December 1938. In April 1939 he became the operations officer for Luftflotte 2 (Air Fleet 2) known at the time as Luftflottenkommando 2 (Air Fleet Command 2). World War II
On 3 September 1939—two days after the invasion of Poland—Hans Geisler was removed the staff of Luftflotte 2 and given command of Fliegerkorps X, which was initially named Fliegerdivision 10 upon formation on 5 September. <mask> was appointed as chief of staff, effective from 1 November 1939. The headquarters located to Blankenese, Hamburg. The OKL regarded the war at sea and the destruction of British sea communications as secondary to the defeat of the Royal Air Force (RAF) and the British aviation industry. In September 1939, Harlinghausen's Fliegerkorps carried out sporadic operations off Eastern England with some success.After it was renamed and formed from a division to a corps on 3 October


texts: 1939 the command was given I./Kampfgeschwader 30 and I./Kampfgeschwader 26, equipped with the Junkers Ju 88 and Heinkel He 111. The air corps operated in the North Sea during the Phoney War period. In a memorandum, dated 15 January 1940, the navy wished to procure the Dornier Do 217 bomber, then under development, but Hermann Göring, commander-in-chief of the Luftwaffe, refused citing the intent to transfer all offensive operations over to Fliegerkorps X, along with all new types. The He 115 was allocated to the navy instead. Harlinghausen was influential in ending production of the He 115 in favour of the He 111 for naval operations. For Harlinghausen, the war began in the autumn. On 17 October 1939, elements of the air corps attacked Scapa Flow, a major anchorage for the Royal Navy.Nazi propaganda wrongly claimed the aircraft carrier Ark Royal sunk. Operations in the north sea over the course of 17-19 December 1939 sank 10 vessels, all fishing trawlers, for a meagre 2,949 tons. On 17 December 1939, five trawlers were sunk, with at least two dead and five wounded. The following day there were three deaths aboard two sunken trawlers. Another was damaged and lost three crew killed. On 19 December, Star of Scotland suffered three dead in an attempt to sink her. From 9–30 January 1940, the air corps sank 12 freighters for 23, 994 gross register tons off eastern England.Specifically, KG 26 and 30 sank four ships and damaged four more in a single operation on 29 January. The following day, 35 Heinkel He 111s sank a further two and damaged a further eight. Shipping operations were extended to Scotland


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 in 1940. In March 1940 German aircraft attacked 57 merchant ships and 38 Trawlers. Seven of the former and one of the latter were seriously damaged. Despite being the chief of staff in Fliegerkorps X, Harlinghausen flew missions and sank two merchant ships of , and severely damaged the 8,441 grt passenger ship Domala. The attack, carried out off St Catherine's Point, killed 98 people.On 1 March 1940, a He 111 from the Korpsführungkette (Corps Command Section)/Fliegerkorps X with Harlinghausen aboard, sank the 1,388 grt Norwegian freighter, Vestfoss south-east of Copinsay Island. On 20 March he sank the transport Barn Hill (5,439 grt) on a southward armed reconnaissance mission into the English Channel. The ship sank off Brighton. The vessel settled on a sand bank in shallow water and her cargo was salvaged. Operations incurred casualties. No. 12 Group RAF and No.13 Group RAF moved into Scottish and Northumbrian airfields in greater strength. With this move, the number of interceptions by RAF Fighter Command increased. 10  26 bombers were lost from 17 October 1939 to 15 August 1940 over Northumbria and Durham. 30 lost a further aircraft; all but one to fighter aircraft. A number of these interceptions were made during attacks on the Orkney islands from 8–10 April, made as a precursor to the invasions of Norway and Denmark. Operation Weserübung

Anti-shipping operations were interrupted. On 5 March 1940, Harlinghausen and Geisler travelled to Berlin.They were informed of the intention to invade Denmark and Norway. The planning for these invasions ended the prospect of intensive operations in the


texts: North Sea. In April 1940 the air corps' order of battle showed considerable reinforcement. The Luftwaffe order of battle April 1940 included transport groups KGr zbv 101–108, equipped with the Junkers Ju 52. Kampfgeschwader 4, 26 and 30 provided its bombing power. Harlinghausen remained chief of staff. The long coastline allowed for the use of longer range aircraft.Only weak dive-bomber units were allocated. Fliegerkorps X was given 500 aircraft; just 40 were dive-bombers. The air corps issued an order to all naval and land forces with the finalised plans, suggesting the air staff had a strong influence on the invasion plans. Operation Weserübung began on 9 April 1940. Denmark was in German hands within the day. Airborne forces assiste in the Capture of Egersund, Kristiansand and the Oslo Airport, Fornebu. All ports, from Stavanger in the south to Trondheim in the north were to be reinforced by air once captured.From the second week, Fliegerkorps X turned to defeating the Åndalsnes landings and supported the Battle of Dombås and Namsos campaign. Southern and central Norway was secured within days. In the north, the Royal Navy prevented the capture of Narvik and the subsequent Battles of Narvik ended in a series of German naval defeats. Harlinghausen earned a reputation as one of the more aggressive commanders and excelled in his command of the ad hoc Fliegerführer Trondheim. The Royal Navy acknowledged the air corps' effectiveness. Admiral Charles Forbes kept his distance from the Norwegian coast after a series of damaging air attacks on his Home Fleet. Forbes was especially concerned about his


texts: smaller ships; his cruiser and destroyers after the loss of  Gurkha.Harlinghausen's air corps flew in supplies to Eduard Dietl in the days following the invasion, as his forces fought the Battles of Narvik. The snow and weather conditions made landing and take off difficult. Aircraft were vulnerable in the narrow fjords. The supply operations had limited effect; they improved morale but did not improve the battle-readiness of Dietl's forces. On 30 April 1940 Harlinghausen flew a patrol between Trondheim and Namsos in one of two staffel KüFlGr (Coastal Flying Group) 506's He 115s. Over Namsfjord he discovered many targets. His reconnaissance mission guided 3./StG 1 to the area and the Junkers Ju 87 Stukas sank the anti-submarine warfare trawlers Siretoko, Jardine and Warwickshire.was also badly damaged necessitating her scuttling by . <mask> was awarded the Knight's Cross of the Iron Cross () on 5 May 1940 for his service piloting Heinkel He 115s and commanding an ad hoc group named Fliegerführer Stavanger. Harlinghausen's command made a significant operational contribution to the German victory in the Norwegian Campaign by rendering Allied sea communications insecure. On 18 May 1940 Harlinghausen probably sank the 55-year old 988 brt Sirius—claimed as a 1,500 grt freighter. The campaign ended on 9 June with the Allied evacuation from Norway. The Luftwaffe tipped the balance, compensating for the weakness of Wehrmacht sea power. Interdicting shipping lanes, air superiority and transport operations were crucial to the eventual German victory.The invasion cost Fliegerkorps X 1,130 air crew; 341


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 killed in action and 448 missing in action. Battle of Britain to Mediterranean

Fliegerkorps X remained in Norway. It formed the only combat formation of Luftflotte 5 (Air Fleet 5). KG 26 and 30, the anti-shipping specialists were the only bomber units under its command. 4 was reassigned to Fliegerivision 9, the minelaying unit, which was formed into a flying corps of the same number in October 1940. While Fall Gelb was put into effect—the Battle of the Netherlands, Battle of Belgium and Battle of France—Fliegerkorps X continued in attacks on British coastal shipping. By the conclusion of the campaigns in June 1940, JG 77 provided the only single-engineḍ fighter group.ZG 76 was the long-range fighter group present for fighter escort over the North Sea. The air corps sat out the Battle of Britain until mid-August 1940, while Luftlfotte 2 and 3 carried out the main effort in southern Englanḍ. On 15 August 1940, Luftflotte 5 carried out its only large scale bombing attack of the battle on land-based targets. The OKL hoped to divide Fighter Command's fighter squadrons and destroy them by attacking the British Isles from all directions. The operation was a failure and the air corps suffered heavy losses among bombers and long range fighter escorts. The air fleet (effectively Fliegerkorps X) lost 10 percent of its strength on one sortie. ZG 76 suffered one-third losses; some 19 aircraft over the North Sea and English Channel.The German air fleets lost 77 aircraft that day. Operations against the mainland were out of the question thereafter. The air fleet did not venture over Britain again for the


texts: duration of the battle. The Norwegian and Danish-based German aircraft resumed the war against the Royal Navy and merchant traffic. Harlinghausen refined and developed ship-attack tactics that the Luftwaffe used over Great Britain in 1940. The bomber approached on the beam at low-level and released bombs to damage the ship's hull below the water line. The types of vessels targeted extended to Lightships and fishing boats which the Germans saw as legitimate targets.The number of ships attacked and damaged in 1940 rose to 127 in 1940 and to a peak of 164 in 1941. On 3 November 1940 <mask> was credited with sinking a 6,000 grt ship, probably the 3,871 grt Kildale off Kinnaird Head bringing his claim total to approximately 100,000 grt. The air corps was sent to Sicily, Italy in late 1940. It formed the first wave of attacks on the intensively bombed British base at Malta and to support the Axis powers in the Battle of the Mediterranean. The air corps moved to Axis-held Greece in June 1941, by which time <mask> had left the corps. During its operations in the first half of 1941, the air corps effectively suppressed the Royal Navy Submarine Service, and its 10th Submarine Flotilla. Even with two antishipping experts occupying the position of commander, and chief of staff, the air corps failed to neutralise or paralyse the island's defences.The staff blamed limited supplies and the distractions on other fronts for the failure to achieve more; and above all, closing the Strait of Sicily to British naval forces. Harlinghausen tried to secure assistance from the Regia Marina to help shut the straits. His


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 idea was for naval forces to patrol in darkness for his air corps could not see the enemy. The Italians could shadow the enemy until daybreak when his air power could be used against them. His efforts were in vain. The major success in this region was achieved on 11 January with the sinking of the cruiser Southampton and damaging of Gloucester. He was awarded the Knight's Cross of the Iron Cross with Oak Leaves () 30 January 1941.Harlinghausen was part of the disastrous raid on British convoys moving through the Suez Canal. After four hours they reached the southernmost region, but found nothing. Harlinghausen ordered the other seven to seek alternative targets. After attacking a Ferry, Harlinghausen spotted the scattered convoy in the Great Bitter Lake. The head winds were double than expected, and all the He 111s ran out of fuel. Harlinghausen and Kowalewski crash landed in the desert 280 km south east of Benghazi. They were rescued after five days; three crew were captured.Fliegerführer Atlantik
On 28 February 1941 <mask> was appointed Fliegerführer Atlantik (Flying Leader Atlantic). As a ship-attack expert, he was a logical choice to lead Atlantic air operations. His headquarters were stationed in the village of Brandérion. Harlinghausen was responsible for organising fleet and U-boat support, meteorological missions and even coastal protection, although Küstenfliegergruppe (KuFlGr) (coastal aircraft group), Minensuchgruppe (MSGr—minesearch group) existed for that purpose. He had barely 100 aircraft operational. His commitment to the Mediterranean Theatre of Operations while managing the


texts: staff of X Fliegerkorps, delayed his command until 31 March 1941. He agreed with the operational methods of Karl Donitz at BdU, who favoured using the four-engine Focke-Wulf Fw 200 "Condors" to shadow convoys and direct U-Boats to their quarry; then to begin a coordinated air-sea attack to defeat the convoy.Harlinghausen was given meagre forces to achieve these ends owing to Hermann Göring's intransigence. Among his duties was to coordinate attacks on convoys with the Kriegsmarine's U-Boats. Harlinghausen's command was effective, and often transmitted accurate locations of convoys but because of a paucity in submarines, they failed to respond. Harlinghausen remonstrated with Dönitz who decided a more flexible approach was needed, rather than close cooperation. Harlinghausen frequently clashed with the Admiral over operational deployments, and opposed the shifting of air operations to interdict Gibraltar sea lanes as opposed to the Western Approaches. Harlinghausen's appointment coincided with the "First Happy Time", which was already rapidly approaching its end when Harlinghausen took charge. By Christmas 1940, KG 40, for example, had sunk 19 ships of approximately 100,000 tons and damaged 37– 180,000–tons worth of shipping.In January 1941, 17 ships were sunk amounting to 65,000 tons and five damaged. February was worse for the British, losing 21 ships to Fw 200s, totalling 84,301 tons. During the first quarter of 1941, the Condors sank , the vast majority being lone ships. In one case, a sustained attack upon convoy OB 290 on 26 February 1941 accounted for seven to nine vessels (), all sunk by


texts: KG 40 Fw 200s. However, with never more than eight aircraft operational, this was an exception. Soon, British CAM ship (catapult aircraft merchantmen) appeared, and the time of light Condor losses ended. Three months into his leadership, <mask> was held responsible for the Luftwaffe'''s failure to prevent the loss of the battleship Bismarck, which sank on 27 May 1941.His command was reinforced by II./KG 1, II./KG 54 and I./KG 77, to help the Bismarck, but the air effort failed to reach the combat area before the ship sank. No German Capital ship sailed into the Atlantic again, leaving only the U-boat war in operation. The last half of 1941 had been a severe blow to Fliegerführer Atlantik. It had sunk just four ships (10,298 tons) and damaged two for the loss of 16 Condors, including seven to convoy defences. From 15 March to 31 October 1941 Fliegerführer Atlantik reported 57 convoys. Through cooperation with U-boats 74 ships, totalling 390,000 tons, one aircraft carrier, and one destroyer were sunk. The command sank 161 vessels for 903,000 grt, probably sank seven for 31,000 grt, damaged 113 for 590,000 grt.Within six months, this trend underwent a radical change. The transfer of Condors to other theatres, according to  OKL wartime report, in mid-December 1941 brought air-submarine cooperation to "a standstill". <mask>'s insistence on flying combat operations left his command leaderless after he was shot down and wounded without his usual pilot Robert Kowaleski on 13 October while attacking a transport ship in the Irish Sea. The crew managed to slip back to the French coast near Vannes,  where


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 they were rescued by fishermen. He spent the next three months in hospital. In January 1942 he was replaced by Ulrich Kessler as Fliegerführer Atlantik. North Africa, return to Mediterranean
In January 1942 <mask> was appointed Geschwaderkommodore of Kampfgeschwader 26, an anti-shipping bomber wing.KG 26 operated three Gruppen, groups, simultaneously but often they operated in different theatres. Harlinghausen and the staff command remained based in the Mediterranean. Harlinghausen had long been a supporter of torpedo bomber development. Along with the operational command, he was appointed Bevollmächtigten for das Lufttorpedowesen—Plenipotentiary for airborne torpedoes. KG 26 relocated to Italy in early 1942, and began torpedo training at Grosseto. Harlinghausen soon lost one Staffeln (6) to the Black Sea campaigns. I and III./KG 26 were ready for operations and deployed to Norway while II./KG 26 transferred to the Eastern Front in April, only to return in early August.<mask> remained wing commander through the intensive attacks on Malta convoys in February 1942. Among their successes was the Rowallan Castle, which sank after her escorts scuttled her. III./KG 26 moved to France near Rennes from Norway. Southwest of the  Scilly Isles on 3 and 4 August it carried out its first torpedo attack against a small convoy and claimed six ships totalling 20,000 grt. 6./KG 26, recalled from the Soviet Union, claimed two freighters from the infamous Pedestal convoy in mid–August. From May 1942, KG 26 engaged targets from Norway and sank a significant number of ships. Convoy PQ 10 and Convoy PQ 14 by KG 26 and


texts: 30 resulted in the sinking of two by air and two by submarine attack.It attacked Convoy PQ 16 and achieved success. In September 1942, I./KG 26 were involved in the destruction of Convoy PQ 17 and attacks on Convoy PQ 18, during the Arctic convoys. In the later operation, the III./KG 26 lost 52 crew missing, seven wounded and five killed. Against PQ17, aircraft sank 10 of the 24 ships; though U-boats claimed ships that had already been crippled by air attack. This amounted to 56,000 of the 142,000 grt sunk. 26 were supported by torpedo-equipped He 115s. Against PQ18 ten of the 13 ships were sunk by air attack.26 and 30 had a hand in sinking a further three; all in 300 sorties. But the cost was high; 44 aircraft. The operations, despite the losses, were a vindication of Harlinghausen and the use of torpedo bombers. In November 1942 the Axis front in North Africa began to collapse. The Second Battle of El Alamein destroyed their foothold in Egypt and led to their pursuit across Libya by the British; Operation Torch had seized Algeria, Morocco and threatened to take Tunisia. The OKW reacted swiftly and dispatched air and land forces to Tunisia to maintain a bridge head. The Run for Tunis was narrowly won by the Axis beginning the Tunisian Campaign.Harlinghausen was appointed Fliegerführer Tunesien. Harlinghausen was responsible to the Commander in Chief South, Albert Kesselring, in the initial stages, who was given complete command of the Tunisian bridgehead. The limited forces available forced the Axis to establish their lines on defencible terrain with the shortest logistics line, one as far


texts: inland from the main supply ports as Axis forces could maintain. Harlinghausen led three companies of 1st Tunis Field Battalion, one company of paratroopers, one antiaircraft artillery company, 14th Company, 104th Panzer Grenadier Regiment, advance detachment of the 5th Parachute Regiment of the Hermann Göring Panzer Division (3 officers and 150 enlisted men). Harlinghausen's forces seized the key positions in Tunis with his troops after the bulk of the Vichy French forces had withdrawn from the city on the night of 13–14 November. Harlinghausen had 140 aircraft, including 109 fighters. Harlinghausen was given command of Fliegerkorps II from February to May 1943.The air corps fought a defensive battle over Tunisia into 1943. Axis air forces in Tunisia were under constant threat of fuel and ammunition starvation. Supplies that reached Tunis were immediately used up. From March to April Allied naval and air forces sank 108 ship—41 percent of all Axis supply shipping. In contrast, Harlinghausen ordered his anti shipping units to abandon forward bases in Sardinia for the mainland, due to Allied air raids. The daily sorties against Allied warships fell from 11 to two. In April 1943 Operation Flax permanently disrupted the air bridge from Sicily to Tunisia.At the end of April there was no fuel left to run radar sets, or move tanks from workshops. The vain effort to supply Tunisia was disastrous. In April and first week of May, 1943, 177 Junkers Ju 52s were lost; six months after the beginning of the failed air lift during the Battle of Stalingrad. Harlinghausen escaped the 13 May capitulation in which


texts:
 130,000 soldiers, starved of food, fuel and ammunition, surrendered. <mask> survived a month longer until dismissed from command on 10 June 1943 following a series of disputes with Kesselring. <mask>'s desire to rest and rebuild his Kampfgruppen was overruled by Göring. The Reichsmarschall demanded air attacks on Allied ports at night in strength.Harlinghausen's complaints to Kesslering were counter productive and the main reason for his dismissal. Later commands

After his dismissal, Harlinghausen briefly returned to Fliegerführer Atlantik as a member of Kessler's staff but was placed in reserve on 26 June 1943. In October 1943 he was appointed General der Kampfflieger. On 11 November, Reichsmarschall (Marshal of the Realm) Hermann Göring, in his role as commander-in-chief of the Luftwaffe, organized a meeting of high-ranking Luftwaffe officers, including Nordmann. The meeting, also referred to as the "Areopag" was held at the Luftkriegsakademie (air war academy) at Berlin-Gatow. This Luftwaffe version of the Greek Areopagus—a court of justice—aimed at finding solutions to the deteriorating air was situation over Germany. In December 1944 Harlinghausen was appointed Chef des Luftwaffenkommandos "West", a position he held until the cessation of hostilities.He was captured by American troops and was released in 1947. Postwar career
<mask> served in the new West German Air Force from 1957 to 1961. He was sent into retirement, having been politically uncomfortable during his post-war career, after demanding a proper investigation in the 1961 F-84 Thunderstreak incident, after which Oberstleutnant


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 Siegfried Barth, commander of Jagdbombergeschwader (JaBoG) 32, was removed from his post without a proper investigation. <mask> died in Gütersloh in March 1986. Awards
 Spanish Cross in Gold with Swords and Diamonds
 Iron Cross (1939)
 2nd Class (30 January 1940)
 1st Class (3 February 1940)
 Knight's Cross of the Iron Cross with Oak Leaves
 Knight's Cross on 4 May 1940 as Major in the general staff and chief of staff of the X. Fliegerkorps
 8th Oak Leaves on 30 January 1941 as Oberstleutnant'' in the general staff and chief of staff of the X. Fliegerkorps
 Great Cross of Merit

References

Citations

Bibliography

1902 births
1986 deaths
People from Rheda-Wiedenbrück
Luftwaffe World War II generals
German World War II pilots
People from the Province of Westphalia
Lieutenant generals of the German Air Force
Commanders Crosses of the Order of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany
Recipients of the Knight's Cross of the Iron Cross with Oak Leaves
German military personnel of the Spanish Civil War
Condor Legion personnel
Reichsmarine personnel
Bundeswehr generals
Lieutenant generals of the Luftwaffe
German prisoners of war in World War II held by the United


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<mask> (June 22, 1922 – June 12, 2002) was an American fashion designer, born in Fort Wayne, Indiana. He was the recipient of many fashion awards, including seven Coty Awards and the Fashion Institute of Technology's Lifetime Achievement Award (1999). Early life
<mask> was born in Fort Wayne, Indiana, the son of <mask>, a traveling hardware salesman, and his wife, Ethyl (Keyser<mask>. In his autobiography, <mask> wrote that the margins in his school books were filled with sketches of Hollywood-inspired fashions instead of notes. At fifteen, he began sewing and selling evening gowns for $25 each to a New York manufacturer. At seventeen he had saved enough money to move to Manhattan and study fashion. At eighteen, he was the first male to win Mademoiselle's Design for Living award.He spent his salary of $30 a week on clothing, shoes and elegant meals. In 1943, <mask> enlisted in the Army. Due to his intelligence and talent, he was assigned to the 603rd Camouflage Battalion. Its mission was to deceive the German Army into believing the Allies were positioned in fake locations, for example by using dummy tanks. He served in this unit at several major operations including the Battle of the Bulge, and the Rhine River crossing. Fashion career

After the war, <mask> returned to New York, and was promptly hired as Anne Klein's assistant. However, he was soon fired; allegedly, Anne told him that while he had good manners, he had no talent.He was a protégé of Baron de Gunzburg. In 1970, after two decades of success in menswear and womenswear, he bought Maurice Rentner Ltd., which he had joined in 1959, and renamed it Bill Blass Limited. Over the next 30 years he expanded his line to include swimwear, furs, luggage, perfume, and chocolate. In 1967, he was the first American couture fashion designer to start a men's wear line. That part of his business grew to offer everything from ties, socks and belts to suits and evening clothes. It was made by 18 licensees. Like many designers, his

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William Ralph Blass
Blass
Ralph Aldrich Blass
) Blass
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 women's couture collections lost money but served to promote other parts of his business.By the mid-1990s, his ready to wear business grossed about $9 million annually and his 97 licensing agreements had retail sales of more than $700 million a year. His clients, many of whom were also his friends, included Happy Rockefeller, Brooke Astor, Nancy Kissinger, Jessye Norman, Gloria Vanderbilt and Patricia Buckley. Design Style
<mask> is largely credited with creating the relaxed, elegant look that American fashion favored in the late 20th century. In a time period where international attention was solely focused on French fashion, <mask> was able to create designs that would eventually shift the focus onto American fashion as well. Inspired by European fashion designers like Coco Chanel, <mask> modernized womenswear by allowing them comfort while still maintaining a sense of glamour; he would create designs typical of sportswear, but create them using luxurious fabrics. His signature style consisted of feminine ruffles, luxury materials such as mink or cashmere, and sharply-cut, simple silhouettes. <mask>'s looks would incorporate Golden Age Hollywood's glamour with sportswear, taking sportswear silhouettes, and creating them with luxurious materials such as mink, silk, and cashmere, or blending pieces traditionally found in sportswear with dramatic ball skirts.<mask> was the first American to incorporate fabrics traditionally only found in menswear, such as pinstripes and houndstooth, into womenswear. His clothing was always very wearable, a characteristic that set him apart from his contemporaries, as most of them were focused on creating fantastical clothes. Advertisements
<mask> was one of the first designers bold enough and recognizable enough to star in his own advertisements. In one such campaign launched during the 1960's, <mask> was pictured alongside two models wielding machine guns. Text proclaiming, "They can't knock off <mask>" was emblazoned across the image.

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Blass
Blass
Blass
Blass
Blass
Blass
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Bill Blass


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 Employing witty slogans such as ''Positively Blassphemous", <mask> became a celebrity in his own right. Versailles 1973
During November 1973, at the Palace of Versailles, five American fashion designers, one of whom was <mask>, faced off against five French designers who were at the time considered to be the best of the best: Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro, Pierre Cardin, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior, in a battle of fashion shows.The event is often credited as the event that put American fashion in the international spotlight. The Bill Blass Edition Continental Mark series
Beginning in 1975, and continuing until 1992, <mask> lent his talents to the Ford Motor Company for an edition of their Continental Mark series of automobiles. In 1976, he shared model configurations with Emilio Pucci, Hubert de Givenchy, and Cartier. Each year, as goes true fashion, the interior and exterior color combinations would be updated. One of the most popular was the 1979 edition honoring a nautical theme, as did the Blass logo of the time. Small anchors were incorporated into the exterior accent striping and interior accents within the Blass "back-to-back B" design theme. The 1979 through 1983 Mark series Blass models were available with a "carriage roof" giving a convertible top look to the cars.After 1983, the <mask> edition became a color option with rear quarter window model designations and a few features that were options on the standard model. Awards and recognition
Over the years, <mask> won three Coty American Fashion Critics Awards. He won the 1968 Coty for men's wear. The Council of Fashion Designers of American awarded <mask> their Lifetime Achievement Award in 1987 and was the group's first winner of their Humanitarian Leadership Award in 1996. He was also named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame List. New York Public Library
In 1994, <mask> gave $10 million to the New York Public Library. In recognition of the gift, the Public Catalog

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Bill Blass
Bill Blass
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 Room of the New York Public Library Main Branch at Fifth Avenue and 42nd Street was named the <mask> Public Catalogue Room.Retirement and death
In 1999, <mask> sold Bill Blass Limited for $50 million to Michael Groveman and retired to his home in New Preston, Connecticut. <mask> was diagnosed with oral/tongue cancer in 2000, not long after he began writing his memoir. His cancer later developed into throat cancer, resulting in his death on June 12, 2002, ten days away from his 80th birthday. <mask> collected art and was a connoisseur of antiquities and in his will bequeathed half of his $52 million estate, as well as several important ancient sculptures, to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Quote

"The beauty of being able to draw, or paint, from an early age is that you never feel trapped, least of all by your immediate circumstances." "The secret of living is not staying too long. I have learned when to leave the party."“When in doubt, wear red.”

“Fashion can be bought by anybody; style takes discernment, it has to do with individuality.”

“Sometimes the eye gets so accustomed that if you don't have a change, you're bored. It's the same with fashion, you know. And that, I suppose, is what style is about.”

“Simplicity is the soul of modern elegance.”

Publications
 Dining in Manhattan Cookbook: A Collection of Gourmet Recipes for Complete Meals from Manhattan's Finest Restaurants, with Joan G. Hauser (1983)
 Bare Blass, edited by Cathy Horyn (2002)

See also

 <mask> Group

References

External links
 Official website of Bill Blass Group

 American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s-1970s, an exhibition catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries (fully available online as PDF), which contains material on <mask> (see index)

1922 births
2002 deaths
American fashion designers
Artists from Fort Wayne, Indiana
Deaths from throat cancer
Deaths from cancer in Connecticut
United States Army personnel of World War II
United States Army soldiers
People from New Preston,

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Bill Blass
Blass
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Bill Blass


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<mask> (崔寧) (723 – November 10, 783), né <mask> (崔旰), was a general of the Tang dynasty of China. For over a decade, he ruled over Xichuan Circuit (西川, headquartered in modern Chengdu, Sichuan) effectively independently from the imperial government, but was eventually kept at the capital Chang'an by the imperial government in 779. Subsequently, when the general Zhu Ci rebelled in 783 and established a new state of Qin, the chancellor Lu Qi, apprehensive that <mask> would blame the rebellion on him, falsely accused <mask> of being complicit in Zhu's rebellion. Emperor Dezong, believing Lu's accusations, had <mask> strangled. Background
<mask> was born in 723, during the reign of Emperor Xuanzong. His family was from Wei Prefecture (衛州, in modern Puyang, Henan), and had a long tradition of Confucian scholarship. Despite this, though, <mask> was interested in military strategies.At one point, Ru Zhang () the prefect of Wei Prefecture recommended him to be the magistrate of Fuli County (符離, in modern Suzhou, Anhui). After his term of service was complete, however, he was not given another official position. He journeyed to Jiannan Circuit (劍南, headquartered in modern Chengdu) and became a soldier in the army there. He successively served under the military governor (Jiedushi) Xianyu Zhongtong () and the general Li Mi () and participated in Li Mi's campaign against Nanzhao in 754. After Li Mi's defeat that year, <mask> returned to the circuit headquarters at Chengdu. The military commander <mask> Lun () was impressed by <mask> Gan's appearance and was endeared to him because they shared the same surname, and therefore recommended him to be a commander of the guards for the military governor. Subsequently, <mask> Gan served under

masks:
Cui Ning
Cui Gan
Cui
Cui
Cui
Cui Gan
Cui Gang
Cui
Cui
Cui
Cui


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 <mask> Yuan and Pei Mian.After Pei was falsely accused and exiled in 762, Emperor Daizong (Emperor Xuanzong's grandson) sent eunuchs to try to investigate Pei for possible misconduct while serving as governor. <mask> Gan induced his subordinates to cut off their ears to proclaim Pei's innocence. When the eunuchs returned to capital Chang'an to report this to Emperor Daizong, <mask> was recalled to Chang'an to serve as an officer in the imperial forces. Around this time, there was much disturbance in the Shu region (i.e., modern Sichuan and Chongqing), and bandits often blocked off road access. Emperor Daizong was concerned about this, and the official Yan Wu () recommended <mask> Gan to be the prefect of Li Prefecture (利州, in modern Guangyuan, Sichuan) to combat the banditry. Once <mask> arrived at Li Prefecture, the banditry ceased, and this led to fame for him. Service under Yan Wu
Subsequently, in 764, Yan Wu was made the military governor of Jiannan Circuit, and as he was heading to his post, he went through Li Prefecture.He wanted <mask> Gan to serve under him, but as at that time <mask>'s superior was Zhang Xiancheng () the military governor of Shannan West Circuit (山南西道, headquartered in modern Hanzhong, Shaanxi), Yan did not feel comfortable requesting Zhang to allow him to have <mask> as a subordinate. <mask> pointed out that Zhang never fully trusted him and that Zhang favored treasure—suggesting that if Yan made the request and also gave Zhang a substantial gift, Zhang would agree. Once Yan arrived at Chengdu, he sent Zhang a gift of rare treasures, and then requested Zhang to allow him to have <mask>. Zhang agreed, and Yan commissioned <mask> as the prefect of Han Prefecture (漢州, in modern Deyang, Sichuan). At

masks: Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui


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 that time, a large part of former Jiannan territory had been captured by Tufan and its allied Qiang tribes. Yan had <mask> command an army to attack Tufan, and it was said that because <mask> was capable in comforting his soldiers, the soldiers fought hard for him. He was able to recapture four cities from Tufan, and when he returned to Chengdu, Yan showed his favor to <mask> by making a wagon with seven kind of jewels to welcome him back into the city.Seizure and control of Xichuan Circuit
Yan Wu died in 765. His deputy Du Ji () served as acting military governor after his death, but there were competing recommendations for his permanent replacement. One of the key officers, Guo Yinggan (), and the discipline officer Guo Jialin (), recommended Guo Yinggan's brother Guo Ying'ai (), who was then an imperial official at Chang'an. <mask> recommended another officer, Wang Chongjun (). Emperor Daizong named Guo Ying'ai as the military governor, and it was said that because of <mask>'s contrary recommendation, Guo Ying'ai bore a grudge against <mask> and Wang. Immediately after he arrived at Chengdu, he made false charges against Wang and executed him. He then summoned <mask>, who was then back on the Tufan front, back to Chengdu.<mask>, believing it to be a trap, refused. Guo Ying'ai then cut off <mask>'s army's food supplies and further took an army, ready to attack <mask>. His advances were stymied by a sudden snowstorm that killed many of his soldiers and animals, however, and <mask> then made a surprise attack, defeating him and forcing him to flee back to Chengdu. At that time, the army at Chengdu was resentful toward Guo Ying'ai because he was arrogant, wasteful, and harsh. <mask> seized the moment to publicly accuse Guo

masks: Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui


texts: Ying'ai of treason—pointing out that Guo Ying'ai had taken an effigy of Emperor Xuanzong out of a Taoist temple dedicated to Emperor Xuanzong and converted the temple to his own mansion. <mask> then attacked Chengdu and defeated Guo Ying'ai, forcing him to flee. Once <mask> entered into Chengdu, he slaughtered Guo Ying'ai's household, and Guo Ying'ai himself was killed in flight by Han Cheng () the prefect of Pu Prefecture (普州, in modern Ziyang, Sichuan), who delivered Guo Ying'ai's head to <mask>.Several other Jiannan officers rose against <mask>—Bo Maolin () at Qiong Prefecture, Yang Zilin () at Lu Prefecture (瀘州, in modern Luzhou, Sichuan), and Li Changkui () at Jian Prefecture (劍州, in modern Guangyuan, Sichuan) -- throwing the circuit into a confused state. Emperor Daizong tried to settle the situation by dividing the circuit—making the eastern half of the circuit into Dongchuan Circuit (東川, headquartered in modern Mianyang, Sichuan) and giving the command to Zhang Xiancheng, making the rest into Xichuan Circuit, while giving Bo and <mask> the lesser titles of defender (防禦使, Fangyushi) under the command of the new military governor Du Hongjian, who had been chancellor. <mask> did not submit to this arrangement, and when Zhang attacked him in spring 766, <mask> defeated Zhang easily. Meanwhile, Du and <mask> were exchanging messengers, and <mask> acted as respectfully as possible and offered bribes to Du. When Du arrived at Chengdu, <mask> treated him with the utmost formal respect but did not permit him any actual control over the governance. In response, Du repeatedly recommended to Emperor Daizong to let <mask> become military governor while placating Bo, Yang, and Li Changkui by making them prefects of their


texts: prefectures. Emperor Daizong reluctantly agreed, although he initially made <mask> only the mayor of Chengdu Municipality and the military commander, under Du.In 767, Du requested to return to Chang'an. Emperor Daizong agreed, and he made <mask> the military governor and let Du resume his service as chancellor. Meanwhile, <mask> also assured of his position by giving large bribes to Du's powerful chancellor colleague Yuan Zai. In 768, <mask> went to Chang'an to pay homage to Emperor Daizong, leaving his brother <mask> Kuan () as acting military governor in his stead. Yang took this opportunity to make a surprise attack from Lu Prefecture and briefly entered Chengdu. When the news arrived at Chang'an, Emperor Daizong immediately sent <mask> Gan back to Xichuan to put down Yang's uprising—and also bestowed on <mask> a new name of Ning (寧, meaning "comfort"). Meanwhile, <mask> Kuan initially could not fight Yang off, but <mask> Ning's concubine Lady Ren was herself capable in military matters, and she used her wealth to engage a group of soldiers; <mask> Kuan was able to use the soldiers she gathered to fight Yang off, and Yang left Chengdu, eventually leaving the circuit by heading east on Yangtze River.<mask> <mask> subsequently sent <mask> Kuan to Chang'an, and because of the large amount of bribes that <mask> <mask> gave Yuan Zai, Yuan had <mask> Kuan and another brother, <mask> Shen (), repeatedly promoted. In 775, <mask> <mask> reported that he had a great victory over Tufan forces, killing over 10,000 Tufan soldiers. In 776, he again reported a victory over Tufan and its allied Tujue, Tuyuhun, Di, and Qiang tribes, killing over 10,000 soldiers. He repelled a Tufan attack in 777 as well. Meanwhile, it was said that

masks: Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Ning Cui Cui Ning Cui Cui Cui Ning


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 because Xichuan Circuit had natural defenses and was rich, <mask> grew arrogant of his position and gathered great wealth. It was also said that he committed adultery with many wives and concubines of his subordinates. The imperial government feared him but could not control him, and had to repeatedly bestow additional honors on him to keep him in check.Retention by the imperial government
In 779, Emperor Daizong died and was succeeded by his son Emperor Dezong. After Emperor Dezong's ascension, <mask> Ning went to Chang'an to pay homage to the new emperor, and was given several high honorific titles -- Sikong (司空, one of the Three Excellencies), chancellor (同中書門下平章事, Tong Zhongshu Menxia Pingzhangshi), director for construction of Emperor Daizong's tomb (山陵使, Shanlingshi), and chief imperial censor (御史大夫, Yushi Daifu). Treating his chief imperial censor title as not just honorary, however, <mask> proposed that the subordinate imperial censors be recommended by the chief imperial censor (i.e., himself) rather than by chancellors—and this drew resentment from Yang Yan, who by that point had become the most powerful chancellor at court, despite the fact that they had a previous cordial relationship as fellow associates of Yuan Zai's. The relationship between <mask> and Yang was further strained as Yang was repeatedly making accusations against another imperial official, Liu Yan, and <mask> was defending Liu. While <mask> was at Chang'an, Tufan and Nanzhao forces launched a major joint attack against Xichuan Circuit, and <mask>'s subordinates were unable to fight them off. When the news arrived at Chang'an, Emperor Daizong was inclined to order <mask> to return to Xichuan Circuit at once. <mask> was set to depart, but Yang

masks: Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui


texts: opposed—pointing out that during <mask>'s tenure, he had effectively turned Xichuan into an independent realm, not submitting taxes or other resources to the imperial government.Yang argued that even if <mask> were able to successfully defeat Tufan and Nanzhao forces, it would be even more difficult to move him later on; instead, he suggested that imperial guard soldiers and elite soldiers from Lulong Circuit (盧龍, headquartered in modern Beijing) -- who had followed their military governor Zhu Ci to Chang'an when Zhu was made chancellor—be sent to fight the Tufan and Nanzhao forces, and once the campaign was over, Xichuan would be back in imperial control. Emperor Dezong agreed with Yang's proposal and kept <mask> at Chang'an. Subsequently, Yang claimed that the northern border needed a senior general—someone like <mask>—to defend it, and had <mask> made the military governor of Shuofang Circuit (朔方, then headquartered in modern Yan'an, Shaanxi). Shuofang was normally a very important and powerful command. However, Yang weakened <mask>'s authority substantially by naming three deputies for <mask> with independent authorities to act—Du Xiquan (), stationed at Ling Prefecture (靈州, in modern Yinchuan, Ningxia); Zhang Guangsheng (), stationed at Sui Prefecture (綏州, in modern Yulin, Shaanxi); and Li Jianhui (), stationed at Fang Prefecture (坊州, i.e., at <mask>'s headquarters). Yang secretly ordered the three of them to watch over <mask> carefully. Nevertheless, <mask> and his subordinate Lü Xiqian () -- whom Yang had commissioned as well—were successful in persuading many Dangxiang tribesmen to submit to Tang, and this drew further displeasure from Yang.He had Lü recalled to Chang'an under guise of a promotion and replaced Lü

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 with Shi Changchun (). Eventually, in 781, he also had <mask> recalled to the capital, and <mask> retained only his honorary title of Sikong but also had him serve as You Pushe (), one of the heads of the executive bureau of government (尚書省, Shangshu Sheng), but not chancellor. Death
By 783, Emperor Dezong was waging a number of campaigns against several military governors to the east who were not following imperial orders—Zhu Ci's brother Zhu Tao, Wang Wujun, Tian Yue, and Li Na. He summoned soldiers from Jingyuan Circuit (涇原, headquartered in modern Pingliang, Gansu) to Chang'an, ready to send them to join the campaigns in the east. When the Jingyuan soldiers arrived at Chang'an, however, they were displeased at the lack of imperial awards, and they mutinied, forcing Emperor Dezong to flee to Fengtian (奉天, in modern Xianyang, Shaanxi). The Jingyuan soldiers then supported Zhu Ci as their leader, and while Zhu was initially pretending to be preparing to put down the mutiny and welcome Emperor Dezong back to Chang'an, it soon became clear that he was planning to take over as emperor. Meanwhile, when Emperor Dezong fled out of the city, few imperial officials knew the direction of his flight and therefore few followed him.Several days later, <mask> Ning arrived at Fengtian, and initially, Emperor Dezong was pleased. However, Emperor Dezong's trusted chancellor Lu Qi soon received word that <mask> had commented:

Lu feared that <mask> would accuse him of causing the calamity, and therefore secretly plotted with an official who had arrived at Fengitan with <mask>, Wang Hong (). He had Wang make a secret report to Emperor Dezong that on the way to Fengtian, <mask> had frequently stopped to defecate or urinate and appeared to be

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 waiting for Zhu Ci's soldiers. Meanwhile, Zhu, who had declared himself emperor of a new state of Qin, in order to try to create suspicion in Emperor Dezong's minds, also publicly announced that he was making <mask> and Liu Hun chancellors. Lu and Wang also forced <mask>'s secretary Kang Dan () into forging a letter from <mask> to Zhu, offering to betray Fengtian to him. Lu, presenting the forgery to Emperor Dezong, thus falsely accused <mask> of treason. Emperor Dezong believed Lu's accusations.He summoned <mask> to his presence under the guise of giving him the mission of comforting the Yangtze-Huai River region, and once <mask> arrived, had imperial soldiers strangle <mask> to death. When Emperor Dezong commissioned the imperial scholar Lu Zhi to issue an edict declaring <mask>'s guilt, Lu Zhi requested that Lu Qi give him the letter from <mask> to Zhu—and Lu Qi then claimed that the letter had been lost. Further, many people were then proclaiming <mask>'s innocence. As a result, Emperor Dezong, who was initially set to make <mask>'s family members slaves and confiscate his assets, did neither. In 796, <mask>'s former subordinate Han Tan (), then a military governor himself, offered to give up an honorary title he had in exchange to be posthumously declared innocent. Emperor Dezong agreed, and also returned <mask>'s body to his family for proper reburial. Notes and references

 Old Book of Tang, vol.117. New Book of Tang, vol. 144. Zizhi Tongjian, vols. 224, 225, 226, 227, 228. 723 births
783 deaths
Tang dynasty jiedushi of Xichuan Circuit
Tang dynasty jiedushi of Shuofang Circuit
Tang dynasty generals at war against Tibet
Mayors of Chengdu
Politicians from Puyang
Tang dynasty generals from Henan
Tang dynasty politicians

masks: Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui Cui


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<mask> (born Tomas Thormodsæter Haugen, 9 June 1974) is a Norwegian musician and multi-instrumentalist in the country's black metal scene. He is well known for his distinct guitar work and drumming in the band Emperor, as well as his formation of the death metal band Zyklon. In very early Emperor releases, he was called Samot (his name "Tomas" backward), and with the formation of Zyklon he became known as Zamoth. <mask> was the owner of the record label Nocturnal Art Productions and had a close relationship with Candlelight Records. Biography
<mask> was born on 9 June 1974 in Hammerfest, Norway. He is the son of Spoonful of Blues bass player Jens Haugen, who encouraged his son to play bass guitar. He grew up in Akkerhaugen, Norway.When <mask> was a young man, he met a fellow musician, who would later become known as Ihsahn, at a rock clinic in Bergen. The two soon became friends and started playing music together. They formed a band and moved through various names – they were called Dark Device, Xerasia, and finally Embryonic. The group eventually settled on the name Thou Shalt Suffer in 1991. They were playing an early form of black metal with keyboards strongly influenced by death metal, particularly vocally. <mask> and Ihsahn's friendship proved to be strong, and the two eventually took their musicianship to a new level. Partially due to the influence of Euronymous of the band Mayhem, <mask> left Thou Shalt Suffer and with Ihsahn, began writing music for a new band called Emperor (in which he played drums).Ihsahn was the only member of Thou Shalt Suffer to remain, and soon bass player Mortiis and drummer Faust were recruited for Emperor; <mask> moved back to his more familiar

masks: Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth


texts: position of guitar. At this point, the group was playing fully developed black metal. Emperor was quick to release several demos in 1992 and 1993, which gained them recognition and popularity in the underground. Mortiis did not stay in the band, and decided to form his own, more electronic-based solo band. He was succeeded by Tchort. In 1994 <mask> was sentenced to 16 months in prison for burning Skjold Church in Vindafjord, together with Varg Vikernes. The arson was committed during a pause in the recording of the Burzum EP Aske (Ashes), where <mask> performed as a session bass player.As Tchort and Faust were also imprisoned at this time, Ihsahn was the only remaining band member outside prison, and Emperor did not release another album for three years. Tchort and Faust did not return to the band. After years of playing in Emperor and being featured on various black metal side projects, <mask>, in conjunction with Ihsahn, decided to dissolve Emperor in 2001 due to their differing musical tastes. Although black metal was both <mask> and Ihsahn's biggest influence and favorite genre of music, <mask> was leaning toward a futuristic death metal sound, while Ihsahn was more influenced by progressive metal and symphonic metal. After Emperor's final release, Prometheus: The Discipline of Fire & Demise, composed entirely by Ihsahn, Emperor was no more. <mask> went on to play guitar with fellow drummer Trym in the death metal band Zyklon. Emperor regrouped in 2006 with the core trio of Ihsahn, <mask> and Trym augmented by a bassist and a keyboardist, and played a few one-night-off gigs in Europe and USA in 2006 and 2007.Recently <mask> was involved in Norwegian-American supergroup Scum,

masks: Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth Samoth


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 which also featured Bård Faust, Cosmocrator of Mindgrinder, Chasey Chaos of Amen and Happy Tom from Turbonegro. <mask> did voice work for 2007's Adult Swim cartoon Metalocalypse episode "Dethfashion". In 2008, <mask> formed The Wretched End with Cosmo and went on to release 3 albums: Ominous (2010), Inroads (2012) and In These Woods, From These Mountains (2016). Personal life

Haugen was married to German musician Andrea Haugen (née Meyer), with whom he fathered a daughter. The couple later divorced. On 13 October 2021, Andrea was killed alongside four other people in the Kongsberg attack. After his divorce from Andrea, he married his second wife Erin, with whom he also has a daughter.Endorsements and equipment
Endorsements
ESP Guitars & Basses
Marshall Amplifiers
Vader Cabinets
Dunlop Picks
Ernie Ball Strings
Other equipment
Gibson Guitars
Jackson Guitars
B.C. Rich Guitars
Fender Basses
ENGL Amplifiers
Peavey Amplifiers
Pearl Drums & Hardware
Sabian Cymbals
Ahead drumsticks

Drum kit
<mask> has stated in an interview with Metal Hammer that the following kit was used by himself to record drum tracks for the demo "Wrath Of The Tyrant". Emperor Interview - <mask>'s Interview for The Lodge
Zyklon Interview - <mask>'s Interview for The Lodge

|-

1974 births
Living people
Norwegian male bass guitarists
Norwegian heavy metal guitarists
Norwegian black metal musicians
Norwegian heavy metal drummers
Male drummers
Norwegian multi-instrumentalists
Norwegian rock guitarists
Musicians from Hammerfest
Satyricon (band) members
Gorgoroth members
Zyklon members
Arcturus (band) members
Emperor (band) members
21st-century Norwegian drummers
21st-century Norwegian bass guitarists
Norwegian

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<mask> is a distinguished professor of Communication Arts and Sciences Department at Penn State University. He has authored and co-authored over 50 manuscripts primarily on the role of emotion and persuasive influence. Dillard graduated in 1976 from the University of Kansas with a Bachelor's degree in Speech Communication and Psychology. In 1978, he earned his Master's degree in Communication from Arizona State University and in 1983, he received a Ph.D. in Communication from Michigan State University. Dillard is currently teaching Measurement in Communication Science and Persuasive Message Processing classes at Penn State University. His awards include the NCA Golden Anniversary Award for the most outstanding, Distinguished Book Award, Communication and Social Cognition Division of the National Communication Association and many others. Dillard is most known in the academic world for his views on affect and persuasion.His research aims to enhance understanding of the role of emotion in persuasion and interpersonal influence. Views on Affect
Dillard has done many studies of the use of affect in our social and environmental interactions. He theorizes how mood and emotion guide our behavior in our everyday interactions. Dillard concludes that affect affects human behavior in three main ways:

 The primary function of affect is to guide behavior. Affect evolved because it enabled successful interaction with the environment. For human beings, the most important environment was the social environment. Affect evolved in the presence and service of social interaction.Human beings strategically manage their affective states. The relative utility of these efforts can be judged only by reference to the environment. Dillard explains how affect is "phasic" and "tonic" or baseline, each one affecting the other. Affect as "phasic"  acting with emotion. If someone feels fear from a stimulus, then they run away from that stimulus. If someone feels happiness when around a certain stimulus, then they would approach


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 that stimulus. But Dillard concludes that emotions more involved than just approach and withdrawal: "If we view emotions as phasic responses to the environment, the other side of the solution is the tonic (baseline) state of the organism.Any decision as to the appropriate course of action (i.e., engagement versus withdrawal) must depend on the resources available to the organism at the time the action is required. The experiential aspect of moods can be thought of as a readout of the operating level of the organism's various biopsychological systems." "Affect enables organisms to address the challenges posed by interaction with the environment. One fundamental problem is how to acquire the resources that enable survival and reproduction. Social life-forms have adopted a strategy for solving that problem, which depends on cooperation and role specialization." Dillard takes on a Darwinian perspective on affect: it evolved out of a need for survival. Perspectives on affect
 Affect might proceed and serve as the basis of communication.Communication is emotion-manifesting when it provides information about the internal state of the actor. Communication can be emotion-inducing. Views on mood
Dillard concludes that mood is a complex phenomenon, but it may be simplified as being either positive or negative. If a person is in a negative mood, then his or her reactions will be skewed towards the negative. A negative mood assumes that resources are seemingly depleted and takes into account challenging interactions with one's environment. If a person is in a positive mood then one feels he has ample resources to react to environmental stimulus. Be it a positive or a negative mood, Dillard considers this state to be a persons "tonic" state, or baseline mood.When the "phasic" and "tonic" states are combined, a reaction to stimulus is considered to be natural. "Dominance and affiliation relations are efficient means of regulating resource distribution and arguably the defining ingredients in the human


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 experience. The communication of emotion is central to the development, maintenance, and modification of these structures." Academic Timeline
1971-76 B.A., Speech Communication & Psychology. University of Kansas. 1976-78 M.A., Communication. Arizona State University.1978-83 Ph.D., Communication. Michigan State University. 1982-83 Visiting Assistant Professor. Department of Communication Arts. University of Wisconsin–Madison. 1983-1989 Assistant Professor. Department of Communication Arts.University of Wisconsin–Madison. 1989-1994 Associate Professor. Department of Communication Arts. University of Wisconsin–Madison. 1992 Special Member of the Graduate Faculty. University of Maryland, College Park-College Park. 1993-2003 Director.Center for Communication Research. University of Wisconsin–Madison. 1994-2004 Professor. Department of Communication Arts. University of Wisconsin–Madison. 1997-1999 Associate Chair. Department of Communication Arts, University of Wisconsin–Madison.1999-fall Visiting Professor. Department of Communication. Michigan State University. 2001-spring Visiting Professor. Department of Communication. Kent State University. 2004-2007 Visiting Professor.Department of Pediatrics, University of Wisconsin–Madison. 2004–present Professor, Department of Communication Arts & Sciences, The Pennsylvania State University

Books and Journals
 <mask>, J.P. (Ed.). (1990). Seeking compliance: The production of interpersonal influence messages. Scottsdale, AZ: Gorsuch-Scarisbrick. Dillard, J.P., & Wilson, B.J.(Eds.) (1993). Special issue of Communication Research on The Role of Affect in Persuading and Informing. Burgoon, M., & Dillard, J.P. (Eds.) (1995). Special issue of Communication Research on Social Influence.Wilson, S.R., Greene, J.O., & <mask>, J.P. (Eds.) (2000). Special issue of Communication Theory on Message Production. <mask>, J.P., & Pfau, M. (Eds.) (2002).The persuasion handbook: Developments in theory and practice. Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage. <mask>, J.P., & Shen, L. (2013). The

masks: Dillard Dillard Dillard Dillard


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 SAGE handbook of persuasion: Developments in theory and practice (2nd ed.). Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage. Awards and honors
1978 - First Place in the Interpersonal/Organizational division of the Western Speech Communication Association. Phoenix.Mode of uncertainty reduction as a determinant of the amount of communication during initial interactions. (co-authored with Stinnett, W., Malandro, L., Hutchinson, D., Schlecter, J., & Stewart, J.) 1981 - Top Three Award in the Organizational Communication division of the International Communication Association,
Philadelphia. Communicator competence in the workplace: Model testing and scale development. (co-authored with P. Monge, S. Bachman, & E. Eisenberg)

1987 - Top Four Award in the Interpersonal/Small Group division of the Speech Communication Association, Boston. Empathy, communication, and prosocial behavior. (co-authored with J.Stiff, B. Somera, H. Kim, & C. Sleight)

1988 - Top Three in the Interpersonal Communication Interest Group of the Western Speech Communication
Association,Spokane. Compliance-gaining message selection: What is our dependent variable? (sole author)

1989 - First Place in the Interpersonal Communication Interest Group of the Western Speech Communication
Association, San Diego. Types of influence goals in personal relationships. (sole author)

1993 - Top Four in the Information Systems Division of the International Communication Association, Washington, D.C. Rethinking the study of fear appeals. (sole author)

1995 - John E. Hunter Meta-Analysis Award, Information Systems Division of the International Communication
Association.1994-1996 - Vilas Associate Professorship. 1996 - Top Four in the Information Systems Division of the International Communication Association, Chicago. The persuasive effects of metaphor: A meta-analysis. (co-authored with P. Sopory) 5

1996 - Top Four in the Interpersonal/Small Group division of the Speech Communication Association. San Diego. The sounds of dominance: Vocal precursors to dominance


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 judgments during interpersonal influence. (co-authored with K. Tusing)

1998 - First Place in the Health Communication Division of the National Communication Association, New York.Affect and persuasion: Emotional responses to public service announcements. (co-authored with E. Peck)

2001 - Top Three in the Health Communication Division of the International Communication Association, Washington,
D.C. Persuasion and the structure of affect: Dual systems and discrete emotions as complementary models. (co-authored with E. Peck)

2001 - Top Three in the Interpersonal Division of the International Communication Association, Washington, D.C.
Environmental factors governing the absolute and relative activation of relational communication frames. (co-authored with K. Tusing and J. Morrill). 2001 - Top Three in the Communication & Social Cognition Division of the National Communication Association, Atlanta. Single- and multi-motive processing of a fear appeal: Encouraging influenza vaccinations. (co-authored with J.W.Anderson). 2002 - NCA Golden Anniversary Award for Dillard & Peck (2001). This award is given for "the most outstanding
scholarly monograph published during the previous calendar year" (National Communication Association website). 2004 - John E. Hunter Meta-Analysis Award, Information Systems Division of the International Communication
Association. 2004 - Distinguished Book Award, Communication and Social Cognition Division of the National Communication Association. For Dillard & Pfau's The Persuasion Handbook: Developments in Theory and Practice. 2006 - Top Three in the Communication & Social Cognition Division of the National Communication Association, San Antonio.The influence of behavioral inhibition/approach systems and message framing on the processing of persuasive health messages. (co-authored with L. Shen). References

Pennsylvania State University faculty
University of Kansas alumni
Arizona State University alumni
Michigan State University alumni
Living people
Year of birth


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Peter Alan Gruner Jr. (born May 11, 1974) is an American retired professional wrestler, better known by his ring name <mask>. He is currently employed by the World Wrestling Entertainment (WWE) as a producer. As a wrestler, Kidman is best known for his work with World Championship Wrestling (WCW) and World Wrestling Federation / Entertainment (WWF/E) throughout the late 1990s and early 2000s. While in WCW, Kidman gained fame as a key member of several stables. In addition to being a member of Raven's Flock, he also was a member of The Filthy Animals and later The New Blood. As a member of these stables, Kidman participated in memorable feuds with top WCW names, including Hulk Hogan, Jeff Jarrett, and Rey Mysterio, Jr. Kidman also found championship success while in WCW, where he became a three time Cruiserweight Champion, a two time World Tag Team Champion (once with Mysterio Jr. and once with Konnan) and a one time (and the final) Cruiserweight Tag Team Champion with Mysterio Jr. Upon WCW's purchase by the World Wrestling Federation, Kidman became a member of the WCW/ECW Alliance.During his time in the WWF (later renamed to World Wrestling Entertainment), Kidman once again found success upon winning the Cruiserweight Championship an additional four times while the title was under the WCW banner and later the WWF/E banner, in addition to winning WWE's Tag Team Championship once with Paul London. Professional wrestling career

Early career (1994–1996)
Gruner was trained by Afa Anoaʻi, one half of The Wild Samoans, and wrestled his first match on September 11, 1994 in Hellertown, Pennsylvania against "Wild Thing" Dan Kallis on the independent circuit as Kid Flash. He formed a tag team with Ace Darling known as The Shooting Stars, and they would find success by winning the ECWA Tag Team Championship. World Championship Wrestling (1996 - 2001)

The Flock (1996–1998)

Gruner


texts:
 first started wrestling as <mask>, or simply <mask>, for World Championship Wrestling in mid-1996, where he spent over a year as an enhancement talent with no character. In 1997, Kidman was added to Raven's Flock and to fit in with the Flock's gimmick of being outcasts, Kidman was given the gimmick of a heroin addict, where he constantly scratched his arms and named his shooting star press the Seven Year Itch. Kidman found little personal success with the group and aided Perry Saturn in defeating Raven in a match, thus disbanding the group. Cruiserweight Champion (1998–1999)
Following the Flock's disbanding, Kidman shed his grungy attire and heroin gimmick and began performing as a clean-cut fan favorite before eventually defeating Juventud Guerrera to win his first Cruiserweight Championship.Although Guerrera won the title back a few weeks later, <mask> would regain it at World War 3. <mask> to Rey Mysterio Jr. Following this, Mysterio Jr. asked Kidman to be his tag team partner in a match for the World Tag Team Championship. <mask> at first declined, as a previous attempt at a tag team between the two did not reach any level of success. The two, however, faced Chris Benoit and Dean Malenko for the titles and succeeded with unwanted aid from Raven and Saturn. <mask> then faced off against Mysterio Jr. in an attempt to win back the Cruiserweight Championship at Spring Stampede, however, Mysterio Jr. retained his title. The three teams feuded for several weeks, which ended in a three-way tag team match for the titles.Chris Kanyon's interference led to the victory for Raven and Saturn. <mask> spent the next several months in assorted feuds. He won the Cruiserweight Championship one more time from Prince Iaukea at a house show, but lost it to Iaukea one day later. Kidman also defeated Psicosis in a hair vs. mask match, and came close to defeating Jeff Jarrett for the United

masks:
Billy Kidman
Kidman
Kidman
Kidmantro
Kidman
Kidman
Kidman


texts:
 States Heavyweight Championship. Filthy Animals (1999–2001)

During this time, Kidman joined The Filthy Animals alongside Rey Mysterio Jr., Konnan, and Eddie Guerrero. Guerrero left the group when he left WCW, and Kidman left the stable when the rest of its members turned heel. He later rejoined the Animals when they turned face once again during the last few months of WCW's existence.Following his first departure from the Filthy Animals, Kidman joined Vince Russo's New Blood stable, signalling another heel turn. Reflecting the gimmick of the New Blood, Kidman began acting as hotshot who refused to be held back by wrestlers beyond their prime. This led to the biggest feud of his career with Hulk Hogan, defeating him in three matches in a row. After the New Blood split up, Kidman became a face once more by entering a feud with Shane Douglas for the affection of his on-screen girlfriend Torrie Wilson. During the feud, Wilson turned on Kidman. Kidman was legitimately injured in a match at New Blood Rising in August 2000, when in a strap match, Douglas hung Kidman from the neck using the strap, and was forced to take several weeks off to recover. Following the Douglas feud, Kidman began teaming with Mysterio Jr. again.They entered the Cruiserweight Tag Team Championship tournament, but lost in the finals to Elix Skipper and Kid Romeo. On the final episode of Nitro, <mask> and Mysterio Jr. won the title from Skipper and Romeo. That night, the World Wrestling Federation (WWF) purchased WCW and <mask>'s contract was picked up by the WWF. World Wrestling Federation/Entertainment (2001 - 2005)

Cruiserweight Championship pursuit (2001–2003)
When the WWF purchased WCW, the contract of Gruner (who was still wrestling as <mask>) was one of twenty-five involved in the purchase. When The Invasion commenced, Gruner appeared on WWF television under his <mask> ring name as a tweener for

masks:
Kidman
Kidman
Billy Kidman
Billy Kidman


texts:
 The Alliance. In July 2001, he won the Cruiserweight Championship from Gregory Helms in the first televised WCW match on SmackDown!. As the WCW Cruiserweight Champion, Kidman proceeded to defeat the WWF Light Heavyweight Champion X-Pac at Invasion.After this, <mask> was later sidelined with an injury during the Invasion angle and thus did not have as big of an impact as other WCW wrestlers. On the October 11 episode of SmackDown!, <mask> won his record-tying fifth Cruiserweight Championship after defeating X-Pac. Following the end of The Alliance, Kidman turned fan favorite and was subsequently drafted to SmackDown! as part of the brand extension. In his return match, <mask> defeated Tajiri to win his record-breaking sixth Cruiserweight Championship. However, Tajiri reclaimed the title at Backlash. At Rebellion, <mask> and his real-life girlfriend Torrie Wilson defeated John Cena and Dawn Marie in an intergender tag team match.After this, he went on to win his record-breaking seventh Cruiserweight Championship after defeating Jamie Noble at Survivor Series. He later lost the title three months later to Matt Hardy at No Way Out. Teaming and feuding with Paul London (2004–2005)
Following the title loss, Kidman proceeded to spend the next few years as a cornerstone of the cruiserweight division before forming a tag team with newcomer Paul London in early 2004. Together, they slowly worked their way up the tag team ranks before ultimately winning the Tag Team Championship from the Dudley Boyz on the July 8, 2004 episode of SmackDown!. Proving the win was not an upset, they went on to defeat the Dudley Boyz in a rematch for the title. Their championship run came to an abrupt end after Kidman turned his back on London. The heel turn played off of a legitimate injury which occurred on an August 24, 2004 taping of SmackDown!, when Kidman's shooting star press unintentionally

masks: Kidman Kidman Kidman Kidman


texts:
 caused Chavo Guerrero to suffer a concussion.The next week, Kidman was on the top rope ready to hit the shooting star press, but hesitated, climbed down the turnbuckles, and slowly walked backstage overwhelmed with guilt after injuring Guerrero. London was left alone to defend the title against Kenzo Suzuki and René Duprée, and was easily defeated. As a result, London and <mask> faced each other at No Mercy, where Kidman defeated London before performing the shooting star press on London while he was strapped to a stretcher. This completed Kidman's heel turn, as he proceeded to blame the fans for wanting him to be more brutal with his in-ring style. <mask> and Guerrero ended their feud upon Chavo's return, the latter being victorious in the final match. Kidman then competed against London over the Cruiserweight Championship in the coming months. At the start of 2005, Kidman suffered a broken orbital bone, which sidelined him for three months.Gruner was released from his WWE contract on July 6, 2005. Gruner stated that the release was due to an argument with management over their decision to stop booking wrestlers on first class flights overseas. Independent circuit (2005–2007)
Following his departure from WWE, Kidman began touring the United Kingdom. During the tour, he competed for the Frontier Wrestling Alliance in a three-way match with Jody Fleisch and Jonny Storm. He also wrestled British wrestling legend Robbie Brookside in a losing effort to determine the inaugural Real Quality Wrestling Heavyweight Champion. In 2007, Kidman made his International Wrestling Association debut in a match for the IWA World Heavyweight Championship against Ray González, which he lost. Kidman also took part in the East Coast Australian International Assault II Tour from June 1–3, 2007, where he competed against Australian wrestlers TNT and Mark Hilton before defeating Bryan Danielson to

masks: Kidman Kidman


texts:
 win the WSW World Heavyweight Championship on the third night in Newcastle.On July 8, 2007, <mask> teamed up with Sean Waltman as part of a triple threat match in McAllen, Texas to crown the new NWA World Tag Team Champions. The title was previously vacated by Team 3D after Total Nonstop Action Wrestling officially pulled out of the National Wrestling Alliance. However, <mask> and Waltman lost the match to Karl Anderson and Joey Ryan. Return to WWE (2007–present)
Kidman returned to WWE in 2007, helping train upcoming wrestlers in its then developmental territory Florida Championship Wrestling throughout 2007 and 2008. On February 23, 2008, he wrestled his last match, losing to Afa, Jr. Gruner was rehired by World Wrestling Entertainment in 2010 as a producer. On September 21, 2011, WWE ran a story on their website about Gruner and his role as a producer. On April 9, 2012, Gruner along with former wrestlers Jamie Noble, Goldust and other officials and WWE wrestlers broke up the brawl between John Cena and Brock Lesnar.In November 2013, Gruner appeared on WWE's European tour as Paul Heyman's doctor, under the name of "Dr. Weisenburg". On August 23, 2016 episode of SmackDown Live, he appeared along with Jamie Noble to prevent Dolph Ziggler from attacking AJ Styles. Kidman's contract was furloughed by the company on April 15, 2020, due to COVID-19 cutbacks. He returned on September 25, 2020. Personal life
Gruner grew up in Allentown, Pennsylvania in the Lehigh Valley region, where he graduated from Parkland High School. Gruner was a banker before he started training to be a professional wrestler, and was good friends with fellow professional wrestler Chris Kanyon, whom he met at the Wild Samoan training center in Pennsylvania. He is a cousin of fellow professional wrestler Mikey Batts.After being together for four years, Gruner married former WWE Diva Torrie Wilson on July 11,


texts:
 2003. They lived together in Tampa, Florida when not traveling. The couple separated in mid-2006, with their divorce finalised in 2008. A book detailing Gruner's career, <mask>man: The Shooting Star, was released in early 2014. In 2014, Kidman began appearing on The JBL Show, where he attempts to promote his Twitter page, but is always interrupted due to technical difficulties, which later became a running gag. Championships and accomplishments
East Coast Wrestling Association
ECWA Tag Team Championship (1 time) – with Ace Darling
ECWA Hall of Fame (Class of 2004)
Pro Wrestling Illustrated
Ranked No. 31 of the 500 best singles wrestlers of the year in PWI 500 in 1999
 Ranked No.313 of the top 500 singles wrestlers in the "PWI Years" in 2003
Revolution Xtreme Wrestling
RXW World Heavyweight Championship (1 time)
Trans-World Wrestling Federation
TWWF Cruiserweight Championship (1 time)
World Championship Wrestling
WCW Cruiserweight Championship (3 times)
WCW Cruiserweight Tag Team Championship (1 time) – with Rey Mysterio, Jr.
WCW World Tag Team Championship (2 times) – with Rey Mysterio Jr. (1) and  Konnan (1)
World Series Wrestling
WSW World Heavyweight Championship (1 time)
World Wrestling Federation/Entertainment
WCW/WWF/E Cruiserweight Championship (4 times)
WWE Tag Team Championship (1 time) – with Paul London
Wrestling Observer Newsletter
Worst Feud of the Year (2000)

Bibliography
Carrington, L. Anne (2014). <mask>man: The Shooting Star. Palm Tree Books

See also
 List of Jewish professional wrestlers

References

External links

1974 births
American male professional wrestlers
Jewish American sportspeople
Jewish professional wrestlers
Living people
Parkland High School (Allentown, Pennsylvania) alumni
Sportspeople from Tampa, Florida
Sportspeople from Allentown, Pennsylvania
Professional wrestlers from Pennsylvania
Professional wrestling trainers
21st-century

masks:
Billy Kid
Billy Kid


texts:
<mask> (1823–1888) was an American inventor famous for designing, building and patenting some of the first successful sewing machines. He invented both the vibrating and the rotating shuttle designs which, in turns, dominated all home lockstitch sewing machines. With various partners in the 19th century he manufactured reliable sewing machines using the latter shuttle type. Life
He was born at Willet, Cortland County, New York, October 18, 1823, the son of a wheelwright. At the age of elevhahaen he was indentured to a farmer, remaining only a year. But he continued to work on a farm until he was sixteen, meanwhile learning the blacksmith's trade. He was next apprenticed to a cabinet-maker at Cincinnatus in the same county, but soon left the place, returning to his regular trade, as a journeyman, and found his way to Adrian, Michigan.While there, and early in 1847, he conceived the idea of a sewing-machine, never having heard of one, though in this country Elias Howe had already patented an invention, as had <mask> Thimonnierin France. Owing to an illness of several months duration. <mask> was not able to develop his ideas, although he had the various devices and adjustments clearly defined in his mind. In August, 1848, he moved to Pittsfield, Massachusetts, where he had obtained work, and soon began to put his ideas on paper in the form of full-size drawings. The firm with which he was connected dissolved in February, 1849, but <mask> remained with <mask>, who continued the business, with the privilege of working evenings in the shop. On February 3, he began the construction of his first machine, and about April 1 completed it, making with it dress waists and other articles requiring fine sewing. His machine differed from those invented by Elias Howe, in the fact that, having a double-pointed shuttle, combined with the needle, it made two stitches instead of one with each complete movement; that is, one

masks:
Allen Benjamin Wilson
Bartholomy
Wilson
Wilson
Amos Barnes


texts: stitch on the forward movement and one on the return.In 1849 he moved to North Adams, Massachusetts, and induced Joseph N. Chapin, of that place, to purchase one-half of the invention for $300. With this money <mask> secured US patent number 7776, Nov. 12. 1850, which covered his new idea for a "vibrating shuttle" as well as a two-motion feed bar. His patent was the fifteenth recorded for an improved sewing machine. While his application was pending. parties owning an interest in a machine patented in 1848 by John A<mask>. of Lowell, Massachusetts, claimed that the latter's patent covered a double-pointed shuttle, and threatened to oppose <mask><mask>.A compromise was made by which <mask> conveyed to Kline & Lee of New York city, onehalf of the patent. He also agreed to go into the manufacture and sale of the mechanics with those parties, but on November 25 sold them his interest in the patent, except the right for New Jersey, and that to sew leather in Massachusetts, for $2,000. Before the end of the year, Nathaniel Wheeler, of the firm of Warren, Wheeler & Woodruff, of Watertown, Connecticut, saw one of the machines in New York city, contracted with E. Lee & Co. to make 500, and induced <mask> to remove to Watertown to superintend the work. <mask> soon became a partner in the firm, which had obtained the sole right to manufacture his machines, and on Aug. 12, 1851, patented a new machine, in which a rotating shuttle was used instead of a vibrating or oscillating shuttle. (This patent was for the complete machine; <mask> had patented the rotating shuttle itself two years earlier, in 1849.) Later, to avoid litigation, he contrived a stationary bobbin, which became the permanent feature of the Wheeler & Wilson sewingmachine. On the same day, August 12, Isaac M. Singer received his first patent on a transverse shuttle machine that became a formidable competitor.A new partnership was now formed, under the

masks:
Wilson
. Bredshaw
Allen B
. Wilson
Wilson
Wilson
Wilson
Wilson


texts:
 name of Wheeler, Wilson & Co., and in 1853 the Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Co. was organized. On Dec. 19, 1854, Mr. <mask> received US patent 12116 for his "four-motion feed", which the machines of other inventors were forced to adopt. The advantage of his improvements was that the stitching made the strongest possible seam, being exactly even on both sides, with no threads showing above the surface that would be liable to wear oft and cause ripping. The first completed machine—that finished in 1851—sold for $125. In 1856 the firm removed to Bridgeport, Connecticut. <mask> <mask> retired from active participation in the business in 1853, but received a regular salary and considerable sums of money on the renewal of his intents. In 1863 he became a resident of Waterbury, Connecticut, where he engaged in other enterprises.His four-motion feed was judged so essential for sewing machines by the Congressional Committee on Patents that in 1874 a requested extension of his patents was denied. <mask> <mask> died at Woodmont, Connecticut, on April 29, 1888 and was interred at Riverside Cemetery in Waterbury, Connecticut. <mask> sewing machines

<mask><mask>'s achievement was in the area of inventing and perfecting sewing machines. Two of those were considered the most ingenious and beautiful pieces of mechanism: the rotary hook and the four-motion feed. He claims to have conceived the idea of a sewing machine in 1847. His first machine was built during the spring of 1849, while he was in the employ of a Mr. <mask>, of Pittsfield, Mass., a cabinet maker. In the same year he built a second and better machine, and "up to this time," says, "I had never seen or heard of a sewing machine other than my own."He sold a one-half interest in the invention to Joseph N. Chapin, of North Adams, and with the proceeds took out his first patent, which bore the date November 12, 1850. It formed a lock stitch by means of a curved

masks:
Wilson
Allen Benjamin
Wilson
Allen Benjamin
Wilson
Wilson
Allen B
. Wilson
Barnes


texts:
 needle on a vibrating arm above the cloth plate, and a reciprocating two-pointed vibrating shuttle. The feed motion was obtained by the two metal bars which are seen intersecting above the shuttle race. The lower bar, called the feed bar, had teeth on its upper face, and by means of a transverse sliding motion it moved the cloth, which was placed between the two bars, the desired distance, as each stitch was made. In 1851 <mask> patented his famous rotary hook, which performed the functions of a shuttle by seizing the upper thread and throwing its loop over a circular bobbin containing the under thread. 'This simplified the construction of the machine by getting rid of the reciprocation motion of the ordinary shuttle, and contributed to make a light tool silent running machine, eminently adapted to domestic use. In 1854, <mask> patented his four-motion feed, in combination with a spring presser foot.The feed bar, as its name indicates, had four distinct motions, two vertical and two horizontal. It was first raised by the action of an eccentric on the driving shaft, then carried forward by a cam formed on the side of the eccentric (by which operation the work was shifted the desired distance), then it dropped, and finally it was drawn back by a spring to its original position. This machine used the curved needle and embodies the rotary hook and the four-motion feed. The latest type of this machine used a vertical needle bar and a straight needle. <mask> had the good fortune soon after securing his patent to interest Nathaniel Wheeler, a young carriage maker who possessed some capital, in his machine, and out of this connection grew the great house of Wheeler & Wilson. References

External links

1824 births
1888 deaths
19th-century American inventors
Burials at Riverside Cemetery (Waterbury, Connecticut)
People from Cortland County, New York
People from Watertown, Connecticut
People from Waterbury,

masks: Wilson Wilson Wilson


texts:
<mask> (6 August 1857, Preßburg – 23 March 1942, Vienna) was an Austrian naval officer and explorer. He was trained at the naval academy in Fiume, then part of the Austrian empire. His brother was the naturalist <mask> (1852–1920). Journey with Teleki 1887–1888

<mask> was the second-in-command of Count <mask>'s expedition to Northern Kenya in 1887–1888. He and Teleki were the first Europeans to see Lake Turkana, which they named Lake Rudolf after the expedition's patron Crown Prince Rudolf of Austria, and also Lake Stefanie, named after Prince Rudolf's wife Princess Stéphanie of Belgium. Höhnel acted as the expedition's cartographer, scientist, and diarist. Teleki and Höhnel made numerous observations on the climate, flora, and fauna of the territories visited and collected more than 400 ethnographical objects, most of them from Maasai and Kikuyu tribes.Their observations provided important contribution to ethnographical knowledge. The scientific results of the journey were published by Höhnel in several articles and in a book written in German and translated into Hungarian and English, titled The Discovery of Lakes Rudolf and Stefanie (1892). In 1892 <mask> was awarded the Carl Ritter Medal (silver) "for a first successful pioneering trip and for [his] meritorious geographic performance." The East African chameleon, known as <mask>os hoehnelii) was named after <mask> Höhnel. Journey with Chanler 1892–1894
Between 1892 and 1894, Höhnel explored the territory in the vicinity of Mount Kilimanjaro with American magnate William Astor Chanler. They

masks:
Ludwig Ritter von Höhnel
Franz Xaver Rudolf von Höhnel
Höhnel
Sámuel Teleki von Szek
Höhnel
Höhnelcer
Ludwig von


texts:
 proceeded inland from the coast, mapping the north-eastern part of the Mount Kenya massif, the Guasso Nyiro River, the Lorian Swamp, the Tana River, Lake Rudolph and then Lake Stefanie. They were the first westerners to come into contact with the Tigania, the Igembe Meru and the Rendille people in this region (Carl Peters had passed to the south in 1889).On 30 January 1893, they were attacked by some 200 warriors of the Wamsara (a subgroup of the Meru), who retreated after killing three porters. The expedition was eventually stranded in what is now the Meru North District of Kenya because of the death of all of its 165 pack animals (probably due to trypanosomiasis) and the desertion of many of the 200 porters. On 24 August 1893, Höhnel was gored by a rhinoceros in the groin and lower abdomen and was forced to leave Chanler and return to Zanzibar and then Vienna, arriving in February 1894. Out of about five hundred photos taken during the journey, 155 photographs taken by Höhnel have survived. Later life
After recovering from his injuries, <mask> became an officer on board the corvette SMS Donau, and traveled in 1897 to the Mediterranean and along the coast of West Africa south to Cameroon, then across the Atlantic to the Caribbean, and to New York and Newport, Rhode Island. During the trip, the ship's captain suffered a heart attack and Höhnel was made provisional commandant until June 1898. Also on this voyage he met the future US president Theodore Roosevelt, who was then in his words the 'much feared' police commissioner of New York.After this,


texts:
 <mask> was assigned as officer of the deck to the central battery ship , whose executive officer was Commander Anton Haus, the future commander of the Austro-Hungarian Navy. In 1899 <mask> became Emperor Franz Joseph's aide-de-camp and later (1905–09) led an official Austro-Hungarian delegation to Emperor Menelik II of Ethiopia. He also commanded the Austro-Hungarian torpedo-cruiser  in a voyage to Australia and Polynesia in the summer of 1905. Höhnel was instrumental in introducing the chamois into New Zealand, negotiating the acquisition in 1905 of six does and two bucks from Neuberg in Austria. They finally arrived in New Zealand on board the SMS Turakino in 1907. He was the commanding officer of the armored cruiser  and the commander of the navy yard in Pula. In February 1907, he submitted a formal request to the navy for permission to marry Valeska von Ostéren (1870–1947) (permission was required as per Austrian naval regulations).However, permission was denied, because it was discovered that Valeska's brother had published an anti-Jesuit novel in 1906 which had offended the powerful Archduke Franz Ferdinand. <mask> was eventually forced to choose between his marriage and his naval career. He married Valeska in August 1909 and subsequently resigned in the rank of captain. In 1912 he was promoted to rear admiral, probably in recognition of his duties as aide-de-camp to the emperor. Post-naval career
Höhnel wrote an autobiography centered on the turbulent years preceding the fall of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, providing insights into African

masks: Höhnel Höhnel Höhnel


texts:
 exploration, the Austro-Hungarian Navy, and prominent personalities of the Habsburg court, including Admiral <mask> Spaun, Admiral Maximilian Daublebsky <mask>, and Rudolf Montecuccoli. The complete manuscript remained in the possession of the family of William Astor Chanler for many decades and was finally published in 2000. <mask> later wrote a 56-page account of his service as aide-de-camp to the Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, which was never published.He died in Vienna in March 1942, and is buried in the Vienna Central Cemetery. Legacy
Höhnel is commemorated in the scientific name of a species of chameleon, Trioceros hoehnelii. In 1958 the <mask> von Höhnel Lane in Vienna was named after him. Publications
Discovery of lakes Rudolf and Stefanie: a narrative of Count Samuel Teleki's exploring & hunting expedition in Eastern Equatorial Africa in 1887 & 1888, translated by Nancy Bell. In 2 vols. (Longmans, 1896). Original in German: Zum Rudolph-See und Stephanie-See, 1892.Over Land and Sea: Memoir of an Austrian Rear Admiral's Life in Europe and Africa, 1857–1909, ed. Ronald E. Coons and Pascal James Imperato; consulting ed. J. Winthrop Aldrich. New York and London: Holmes & Meier, 2000. Original in German: Mein Leben zur See, auf Forschungsreisen und bei Hofe, 1926. Notes

References

Bibliography

1857 births
1942 deaths
19th-century Austrian people
20th-century Austrian people
Austro-Hungarian Navy officers
Austrian explorers
Austrian knights
Austrian people of Hungarian descent
Explorers of Africa
Hungarian-German people
Military personnel

masks:
Hermann von
von Sterneck
Höhnel
Ludwig


texts:
<mask> (born 20 March 1990) is an Argentine professional footballer who plays as a defender for Boca Juniors and the Argentina national team. He began his career at local club Estudiantes de La Plata, where he won the Copa Libertadores in 2009, played in the FIFA Club World Cup Final later that year and won the Primera Division in 2010. After a short spell with Spartak Moscow he joined Sporting CP in 2012, and transferred to Manchester United for £16 million two years later. He won four trophies with the English club: the FA Cup in 2015-16 and the FA Community Shield, EFL Cup and UEFA Europa League in 2016-17. After falling out of favour at Manchester United, <mask> returned to Estudiantes on loan in January 2020, before making a permanent transfer to Boca Juniors in February 2021. <mask> made his first appearance for Argentina in 2011 and has since earned over 60 caps. He was part of their side which reached the 2014 FIFA World Cup Final.He was also a Copa América runner-up in 2015 and 2016 and took part at the 2018 FIFA World Cup. Club career

Estudiantes
<mask> grew up in La Plata, Argentina and joined his local side Estudiantes de La Plata at the age of ten. In 2009, he was promoted to the club's main team, after signing his first professional contract. He spent three years with the club, making 43 appearances and scoring three goals for the team. He played in the 2009 FIFA Club World Cup Final, coming on for extra time as Estudiantes lost 2–1 to FC Barcelona in Dubai. During his time at Estudiantes, <mask> won a Copa Libertadores and an Argentine Primera División title. The defender spent most matches as a left-back and developed a reputation as a capable attacker, scoring his first goal in a 2–1 defeat against LDU Quito in the 2010 Recopa Sudamericana.Spartak Moscow

In December 2010, <mask> signed a five-year contract with Spartak Moscow. He scored his only goal for Spartak on 20 April

masks:
Faustino Marcos Alberto Rojo
Rojo
Rojo
Rojo
Rojo
Rojo


texts:
 2011, netting the opening goal of a 2–1 defeat of Krasnodar in the quarter-finals of the Russian Cup. Sporting CP
In July 2012, <mask> moved from Spartak Moscow to Sporting CP for £3.5 million, signing a four-year contract. <mask> made his Primeira Liga debut for Sporting on 19 August 2012, playing the entire match and receiving a yellow card in a 0–0 draw with Vitória de Guimarães. He received his first red card for Sporting in a league match against Porto on 7 October 2012, picking up two cautions within three minutes as Sporting fell to a 2–0 defeat. He scored his first goal for Sporting on 28 April 2013, netting the winner against Nacional. <mask> played mostly at centre-back in his first season in Portugal, occasionally at left-back, as the team had a comparatively bad season, finishing seventh in the league.In the second league match of the 2013–14 season, <mask> scored his first goal of the season, netting Sporting's second goal in their 4–0 win over Académica de Coimbra. On 19 April 2014, <mask> was sent off in a Primeira Liga match against Belenenses, but Sporting held on for a 1–0 win. In an improved season, he contributed six goals as Sporting finished as runners-up. On 13 August 2014, it was announced that <mask> was being disciplined by his club over his refusal to train after handing in a transfer request to force through a move to Premier League club Manchester United. Sporting president Bruno de Carvalho later alleged that third-party owners of Rojo who were not representatives of Manchester United had pressured his club into selling the player. Manchester United

On 19 August 2014, an agreement to sell Rojo for €20 million (£16 million) was announced by both Sporting and Manchester United. The next day, United announced that they had signed him on a five-year contract, with Nani moving to Sporting on a season-long loan.<mask> stated that it was a "dream for me" to play with

masks: Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo


texts: Manchester United. <mask> missed three matches for United due to difficulties in gaining a work permit, because of pending criminal charges in Argentina, where he is alleged to have had an altercation with a neighbour in 2010. On 4 September, he was granted a work permit by the UK Border Agency to work in England. Ten days later he made his debut at Old Trafford as United won for the first time in the season, playing the entirety of the 4–0 victory over Queens Park Rangers. <mask> was stretchered off in United's 1–0 defeat in the Manchester derby on 2 November, sustaining shoulder damage from a tackle on Manchester City's Martín Demichelis. It was later confirmed that he had dislocated his shoulder, adding to United's defensive injuries alongside Jonny Evans and Phil Jones. On 3 February 2015, <mask> scored his first goal for United, heading a ball played by Robin van Persie for the second goal of a 3–0 win over Cambridge United in an FA Cup fourth round replay.During Manchester United's 2015 pre-season tour of North America, <mask> was expected to join up with the rest of the squad following an extended break granted after competing for Argentina in the Copa América. However, passport issues reportedly caused <mask> to miss pre-season tour entirely, and the matter was said to have "angered" manager Louis van Gaal. <mask> was resultantly fined £140,000 for failing to join up with the rest of the squad on time. In the 2016 FA Cup Final, which United won 2–1 after extra time against Crystal Palace, <mask> was booked in the first half for fouling Pape Souaré and was substituted for Matteo Darmian after 66 minutes. On 4 March 2017, <mask> scored his first Premier League goal to open a 1–1 home draw against Bournemouth. He suffered a season-ending cruciate ligament injury on 20 April, during a 2–1 win over Anderlecht in the quarter-finals of the Europa League, a tournament that United ended up

masks: Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo Rojo