The _French_ are certainly misunderstood: ----but whether the fault is theirs, in not sufficiently explaining themselves; or speaking with that exact limitation and precision which one would expect on a point of such importance, and which, moreover, is so likely to be contested by us----or whether the fault may not be altogether on our side, in not understanding their language always so critically as to know "what they would be at" ----I shall not decide; but 'tis evident to me, when they affirm, "_That they who have seen _Paris_, have seen everything_," they must mean to speak of those who have seen it by day-light.
As for candle-light --I give it up ----I have said before, there was no depending upon it--and I repeat it again; but not because the lights and shades are too sharp--or the tints confounded--or that there is neither beauty or keeping, &c. . . . for that's not truth--but it is an uncertain light in this respect, That in all the five hundred grand Htels, which they number up to you in _Paris_--and the five hundred good things, at a modest computation (for 'tis only allowing one good thing to a Htel), which by candle-light are best to be _seen_, _felt_, _heard_, and _understood_ (which, by the bye, is a quotation from _Lilly_)----the devil a one of us out of fifty, can get our heads fairly thrust in amongst them.
This is no part of the _French_ computation: 'tis simply this,
That by the last survey taken in the year one thousand seven hundred and sixteen, since which time there have been considerable argumentations, _Paris_ doth contain nine hundred streets; (viz.)
In the quarter called the _City_--there are fifty-three streets. In St. _James_ of the Shambles, fifty-five streets. In St. _Oportune_, thirty-four streets. In the quarter of the _Louvre_, twenty-five streets. In the _Palace Royal_, or St. _Honorius_, forty-nine streets. In _Mont. Martyr_, forty-one streets. In St. _Eustace_, twenty-nine streets. In the _Halles_, twenty-seven streets. In St. _Dennis_, fifty-five streets. In St. _Martin_, fifty-four streets. In St. _Paul_, or the _Mortellerie_, twenty-seven streets. The _Greve_, thirty-eight streets. In St. _Avoy_, or the _Verrerie_, nineteen streets. In the _Marais_, or the _Temple_, fifty-two streets. In St. _Antony's_, sixty-eight streets. In the _Place Maubert_, eighty-one streets. In St. _Bennet_, sixty streets. In St. _Andrews de Arcs_, fifty-one streets. In the quarter of the _Luxembourg_, sixty-two streets.
And in that of St. Germain, fifty-five streets, into any of which you may walk; and that when you have seen them with all that belongs to them, fairly by day-light--their gates, their bridges, their squares, their statues - - - and have crusaded it moreover, through all their parish-churches, by no means omitting St. _Roche_ and _Sulpice_ - - - and to crown all, have taken a walk to the four palaces, which you may see, either with or without the statues and pictures, just as you chuse--
----Then you will have seen----
----but, 'tis what no one needeth to tell you, for you will read of it yourself upon the portico of the _Louvre_, in these words,
[7.3]EARTH NO SUCH FOLKS! --NO FOLKS E'ER SUCH A TOWN AS PARIS IS! --SING, DERRY, DERRY, DOWN.
The _French_ have a _gay_ way of treating everything that is Great; and that is all can be said upon it.
[Footnote 7.3: Non orbis gentem, non urbem gens habet ullam --------ulla parem.]
The French are certainly misunderstood: but whether the fault is theirs, in not sufficiently explaining themselves, or speaking too precisely - or whether the fault is on our side, in not understanding their language well enough - I shall not decide. But 'tis evident to me, when people say 'That they who have seen Paris, have seen everything,' they must mean those who have seen it by day-light.
As for candle-light - I give it up - there was no depending upon it; in all the five hundred grand Hotels in Paris, and the five hundred good things (allowing one good thing to a Hotel), which by candle-light are best to be seen, felt, heard, and understood (which, by the bye, is a quotation from Lilly) - barely one of us out of fifty can get our heads thrust in amongst them.
'Tis simply this,
That by the last survey taken in the year 1716, Paris did contain nine hundred streets; (viz.)
In the quarter called the City, there are fifty-three streets.
In St. James of the Shambles, fifty-five streets.
In St. Oportune, thirty-four streets.
In the quarter of the Louvre, twenty-five streets.
In the Palace Royal, or St. Honorius, forty-nine streets.
In Mont. Martyr, forty-one streets.
In St. Eustace, twenty-nine streets.
In the Halles, twenty-seven streets.
In St. Dennis, fifty-five streets.
In St. Martin, fifty-four streets.
And in a further ten quarters, five hundred and thirteen streets, into any of which you may walk; and when you have seen them by day-light - their gates, bridges, squares, and statues - and have crusaded moreover, through all their parish-churches, - and to crown all, have taken a walk to the four palaces-
Then you will have seen-
- but no one needs tell you what, for you will read of it yourself upon the portico of the Louvre, in these words,
EARTH NO SUCH FOLKS!
NO FOLKS E'ER SUCH A TOWN AS PARIS IS!
SING, DERRY, DERRY, DOWN.
Non orbis gentem, non urbem gens habet ullam - - - ulla parem.
The French have a gay way of treating everything that is Great; and that is all that can be said.
Book 7 - Chapter 18