And yet, notwithstanding all this, and a pistol tinderbox which was moreover filch'd from me at _Sienna_, and twice that I pay'd five Pauls for two hard eggs, once at _Raddicoffini_, and a second time at _Capua_ --I do not think a journey through _France_ and _Italy_, provided a man keeps his temper all the way, so bad a thing as some people would make you believe: there must be _ups_ and _downs_, or how the duce should we get into vallies where Nature spreads so many tables of entertainment. --'Tis nonsense to imagine they will lend you their voitures to be shaken to pieces for nothing; and unless you pay twelve sous for greasing your wheels, how should the poor peasant get butter to his bread? --We really expect too much--and for the livre or two above par for your suppers and bed--at the most they are but one shilling and ninepence halfpenny----who would embroil their philosophy for it? for heaven's and for your own sake, pay it----pay it with both hands open, rather than leave _Disappointment_ sitting drooping upon the eye of your fair Hostess and her Damsels in the gateway, at your departure----and besides, my dear Sir, you get a sisterly kiss of each of 'em worth a pound----at least I did----
----For my uncle _Toby's_ amours running all the way in my head, they had the same effect upon me as if they had been my own ----I was in the most perfect state of bounty and good-will; and felt the kindliest harmony vibrating within me, with every oscillation of the chaise alike; so that whether the roads were rough or smooth, it made no difference; everything I saw or had to do with, touch'd upon some secret spring either of sentiment or rapture.
----They were the sweetest notes I ever heard; and I instantly let down the fore-glass to hear them more distinctly----'Tis _Maria_; said the postillion, observing I was listening ----Poor _Maria_, continued he (leaning his body on one side to let me see her, for he was in a line betwixt us), is sitting upon a bank playing her vespers upon her pipe, with her little goat beside her.
The young fellow utter'd this with an accent and a look so perfectly in tune to a feeling heart, that I instantly made a vow, I would give him a four-and-twenty sous piece, when I got to _Moulins_----
------And who is _poor Maria?_ said I.
The love and piety of all the villages around us; said the postillion----it is but three years ago, that the sun did not shine upon so fair, so quick-witted and amiable a maid; and better fate did _Maria_ deserve, than to have her Banns forbid, by the intrigues of the curate of the parish who published them----
He was going on, when _Maria_, who had made a short pause, put the pipe to her mouth, and began the air again----they were the same notes; ----yet were ten times sweeter: It is the evening service to the Virgin, said the young man----but who has taught her to play it--or how she came by her pipe, no one knows; we think that heaven has assisted her in both; for ever since she has been unsettled in her mind, it seems her only consolation----she has never once had the pipe out of her hand, but plays that _service_ upon it almost night and day.

And yet, despite all this, and a pistol tinderbox which was filched from me at Sienna, and twice that I paid five Pauls for two hard eggs, once at Raddicoffini, and a second time at Capua - I do not think a journey through France and Italy, provided a man keeps his temper all the way, is so bad a thing as some people would make you believe.
- 'Tis nonsense to imagine they will lend you their carriages to be shaken to pieces for nothing; and unless you pay twelve sous for greasing your wheels, how should the poor peasant get butter for his bread? - We really expect too much - and as for the livre or two above par for your suppers and bed - at the most they are but one shilling and ninepence halfpenny - why quibble? for heaven's sake, pay it, rather than disappoint your fair Hostess and her Damsels - and besides, my dear Sir, on your departure you get a sisterly kiss of each of 'em worth a pound - at least I did.
- For my uncle Toby's amours running in my head had the same effect upon me as if they had been my own. - I was in the most perfect state of good-will; and felt the kindliest harmony vibrating within me with every oscillation of the chaise; so that whether the roads were rough or smooth, everything I saw touched upon some secret spring of sentiment or rapture.
- They were the sweetest notes I ever heard; and I instantly let down the window to hear them more distinctly.
''Tis Maria,' said the postillion; 'Poor Maria is sitting upon a bank playing her vespers upon her pipe, with her little goat beside her.'
The young fellow uttered this so feelingly that I instantly made a vow to give him a four-and-twenty sous piece, when I got to Moulins.
'And who is poor Maria?' said I.
'The love and piety of all the villages around us;' said the postilion. - 'Just three years ago, the sun did not shine upon so fair, so quick-witted and amiable a maid; and Maria deserved a better fate than to have her marriage banns forbid, by the intrigues of the curate who published them.'
Here Maria, who had made a short pause, put the pipe to her mouth, and began the tune again - they were the same notes, yet ten times sweeter.
'It is the evening service to the Virgin,' said the young man, 'but who has taught her to play it, no one knows; we think that heaven has assisted her; for ever since she has been unsettled in her mind, it seems her only consolation. She has never once had the pipe out of her hand, but plays that service night and day.'
