Eyelash coating compositions such as mascaras are generally makeup compositions, compositions to be applied over a makeup (also known as top coats), or cosmetic eyelash care compositions.
Mascaras are especially prepared according to two types of formulation: water-based mascaras known as cream mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water; mascaras that are anhydrous or that have a low water content, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.
The present patent application more specifically concerns water-based mascaras.
Application of mascara makes it possible to increase the volume of the eyelashes and consequently to increase the intensity of the gaze. Many thickening or volumizing mascaras exist for doing this, the principle of which consists in depositing the maximum amount of material onto the eyelashes so as to obtain a volumizing (or charging) effect.
It is in particular by means of the amount of solid particles (especially waxes, which make it possible to structure the composition) that the application specificities desired for the compositions can be adjusted, for instance their fluidity or consistency, and also their thickening power (also known as the charging power or makeup power).
These solid particles are dispersed in the cream mascara by means of a surfactant system.
Among the standard emulsifiers or emulsifying systems, there are                cetyl phosphate, but the use of cetyl phosphate alone leads to aggregation of the pigments and also to coarse dispersion of the waxes; this frequently results in a “grey” rather than a black mascara;        emulsifying systems based on Steareth-20 and Steareth-2, but the use of these systems leads to very fluid mascaras whose consistency is unsatisfactory for a volumizing mascara;        emulsifying systems based on triethanolamine stearate.        
One problem addressed by the present patent application is a mascara in which not only the waxes but also the pigments are dispersed uniformly, the mascara having a texture that is thick enough to obtain a charging, volumizing deposit on the eyelashes, and having a satisfactory consistency allowing easy application to the eyelashes and smooth, uniform deposition.