Heat 3 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat.,Add the garlic, onion and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is dark brown, about 30 minutes.,Meanwhile, make the broth: Put the bacon and chicken wings in a Dutch oven and add enough water to cover.,Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer 10 minutes.,Drain and wipe the pot clean.,Rinse the bacon and wings under cold water, then return to the pot; add 4 quarts water and the dried mushrooms.,Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium; add the garlic mixture and gently simmer 1 hour, 15 minutes.,Strain the broth through a colander into a large bowl, pressing on the solids to extract as much of the liquid as possible.,Skim any excess fat from the surface.,Measure the broth, adding water if necessary to yield 2 quarts.,(The broth can be made up to 4 days ahead; cover and refrigerate.),Just before serving, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and the scallions in a medium skillet over medium heat until the mixture starts sizzling.,Add the sake, soy sauce, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, the sugar, peppercorns and 1/2 cup water.,Simmer, reducing to 1/2 cup, about 5 minutes.,Bring the broth and the scallion mixture to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium heat.,Add the noodles and cook until softened, 1 to 3 minutes.,Gently pull the noodles apart with tongs.,Transfer the soup to bowls and top as desired.,Toppings Bar,Take your pick: These taste great in just about any combination.,Shredded rotisserie chicken,Sauteed mushrooms,Nori strips (seaweed),Shredded kale,Cubed firm tofu,Snow peas,Toasted sesame seeds,Sliced radishes,Sliced scallions,Bean sprouts,Kimchi,Watercress,Sliced jalapeno,Pickled ginger,______,Fried egg,Sesame oil,Sriracha,Roasted squash: Toss cubed butternut or kabocha squash (no need to peel) with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, sugar and red pepper flakes.,Roast at 425 degrees F, 30 minutes.,Sauteed shrimp: Stir-fry peeled deveined shrimp in hot olive oil with minced ginger, chopped scallions and a pinch each of sugar, salt and pepper.,Roasted pork belly: Put 1 cup each sake and water, 1/2 cup each soy sauce and mirin, and 1/4 cup sugar in a Dutch oven.,Add 2 pounds skinless pork belly, 1 quartered onion, 1/2 head garlic and 4 thin slices ginger.,Cover with foil.,Roast at 325 degrees F,3 hours; slice.,Photograph by Charles Masters