caption: People argue what is needed to surf big surf; <PERSON>'s, balls, experience and self belief are all words that will have been banded around in conversation. What amazes me though is how relaxed the guys and girls are. If I were to be chased by a pack of wolves, an avalanche or a few thousand cubic tons of water, my brain would tell me to run, that fighting is no option and off I would go. These individuals though have the ability to slow everything down, to assess what lays ahead and most definitely behind, stay calm and then turn themselves back into the pit of ferocity and go again. Here <PERSON> shows that trait with a turn back into the pocket.
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