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2021年，我们在现场：本年度最受欢迎的14篇通讯
In 2021, We Were There: The Year’s 14 Most Popular Dispatches
BRYANT ROUSSEAU
2021年12月31日

HANNAH REYES MORALES FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
As the world reopened cautiously in 2021, our correspondents seized the chance to venture out in search of stories that would astonish, delight, provoke and enlighten. We went from the heights of a Himalayan ski slope to the ocean depths off the Philippines where amiable giants dive, and from a rugged island where a whistling language is still used to an Italian atelier where robots carve the sculptures.
随着2021年世界谨慎地重新开放，我们的记者抓住机会，探索了那些充满惊奇、愉悦、刺激和启迪的故事。我们从喜马拉雅滑雪场的高处来到潜伏着温和巨兽的菲律宾海底；从一个仍以口哨为语言的崎岖岛屿出发，来到一个由机器人完成雕刻的意大利工作室。
If the pandemic often kept our reporters confined to urban settings in 2020, this year afforded them the chance to explore deep into the countryside. We observed a (bogus) diamond rush in rural South Africa and accompanied Indigenous hunters in Taiwan. We trekked to Canada’s beaver dams, swam in a contested stream in northern Israel and returned home to a Tuscan village sliding back in time.
如果说2020年的疫情让记者困在城市环境中，今年他们则得到了深入探索乡村地区的机会。我们在南非农村看到了一场（虚假的）钻石热，并与台湾的原住民猎手同行。我们徒步至加拿大的河狸坝，在以色列北部一条存在争端的河流中畅游，并回到了让时光倒流的托斯卡纳村庄。
Many dispatches arrived from places difficult to access even in the best of times, from ancient ruins in Syria now housing the desperate and displaced to an island off New Guinea full of war relics and human remains. We also made it to Babylon, Suriname, Kaliningrad, Saudi Arabia, Albania and “Trump Lake” in Kosovo.
许多外派报道发自即使在最好的时代也难以到达的地方，从如今住着绝望和无家可归者的叙利亚古老废墟，到新几内亚附近一个满是战争遗迹和人类遗骸的岛上。我们还去到了巴比伦、苏里南、加里宁格勒、沙特阿拉伯、阿尔巴尼亚以及科索沃的“特朗普湖”。
Cities demanded attention, too: We put Cairo’s glorious and glitchy elevators (and its Tahrir Square) in the spotlight, along with the giant murals transforming São Paulo into an open-air art gallery. Our stories stretched from an empty Louvre to Rio’s dive bars to Hong Kong’s newly crowded nature spots. Kolkata merited two dispatches: on its fairy tale trams and its cafes, where it’s all about the conversation.
城市也需要我们的关注：我们聚焦了开罗华丽又故障不断的电梯（以及那里的解放广场），还有将圣保罗变成露天艺术画廊的巨幅壁画。我们的故事从空荡荡的卢浮宫延伸到里约热内卢的廉价酒吧，再到香港近来人满为患的自然景点。加尔各答值得两篇报道：关于其童话般的有轨电车，还有咖啡馆，那是一切交谈发生的地方。
While travel was a little easier, the coronavirus still gripped the globe. Our dispatches revealed how the world was adapting, from England, where people were moving onto canalboats, to a shuttered Paris, where France’s bureaucracy was in overdrive. We shared our experiences at a quarantine camp in Australia and at a mostly empty Taj Mahal. In Mexico, we spent time with the country’s suffering piñata makers and at its unexpectedly upbeat vaccination centers.
虽然旅行变得容易一些了，但新冠病毒的阴影依然笼罩全球。我们的报道揭示了世界如何适应这种情况，从人们移居运河船上的英格兰，到封锁的巴黎，那里的法国官僚机构已不堪重负。我们分享了身处澳大利亚的隔离点和几乎空无一人的泰姬陵是何种体验。在墨西哥，我们花时间走访了这个国家苦难深重的皮纳塔制作者和乐观到出乎意料的疫苗接种中心。
The year’s biggest news stories also led to memorable and moving dispatches, from the hometown of Haiti’s slain president to a border region in Turkey re-energized by Syrian refugees. In Afghanistan, our reporters were there to witness the fighting on the front lines and the final withdrawal of U.S. troops.
从被杀害的海地总统的故乡，到因叙利亚难民而恢复活力的土耳其边境，这一年的重大新闻催生了难忘而感人的报道。在阿富汗，我们的记者见证了前线的战斗和美军的最后撤离。
Here are the 14 dispatches most popular with readers in 2021:
以下就是2021年最受读者欢迎的14篇文章：
4月，东德里为新冠病人设立的火葬场。
4月，东德里为新冠病人设立的火葬场。 ATUL LOKE FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
‘This Is a Catastrophe.’ In India, Illness Is Everywhere.
“这是谋杀。”在印度，疾病无处不在。
As India in April suffered the world’s worst coronavirus crisis, our correspondent described the fear of living amid a disease spreading at such scale and speed: “Crematories are so full of bodies, it’s as if a war just happened. Fires burn around the clock. Many places are holding mass cremations, dozens at a time, and at night, in certain areas of New Delhi, the sky glows.”
4月，印度遭遇了世界上最严重的新冠危机，我们的记者描述了生活在一种以如此规模和速度传播的疾病中的恐惧：“火葬场堆满了尸体，就好像刚发生过一场战争。大火不分昼夜地燃烧着。许多地方进行一次几十具尸体的集体火化。到了夜晚，在新德里的某些地方，火光冲天。”
— By Jeffrey Gettleman, photographs by Atul Loke
——撰文：Jeffrey Gettleman，摄影：Atul Loke
在阿富汗拉格曼省的塔利班“红队”成员。他们所穿的运动鞋成为了暴力的代名词。
在阿富汗拉格曼省的塔利班“红队”成员。他们所穿的运动鞋成为了暴力的代名词。 JIM HUYLEBROEK FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
In Afghanistan, Follow the White High-Tops and You’ll Find the Taliban
在阿富汗，跟随白色高帮运动鞋就能找到塔利班
For many Afghans, unassuming white high-top sneakers with green-and-yellow trim evoke only one emotion: fear. That’s because they’re beloved by Taliban fighters as a status symbol, and the shoes have become synonymous with violence.
对许多阿富汗人来说，带有黄绿装饰色的白色高帮运动鞋只会唤起一种情绪：恐惧。这是因为，作为身份的象征，这种鞋子受到了塔利班武装分子的喜爱，成为了暴力的代名词。
— By Thomas Gibbons-Neff and Fahim Abed; photographs by Jim Huylebroek
——撰文：Thomas Gibbons-Neff和Fahim Abed，摄影：Jim Huylebroek
9月，巴黎里沃利街与塞瓦斯托波尔大道交汇处的晚高峰。
9月，巴黎里沃利街与塞瓦斯托波尔大道交汇处的晚高峰。 DMITRY KOSTYUKOV FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
As Bikers Throng the Streets, ‘It’s Like Paris Is in Anarchy’
骑行者挤满大街，“巴黎仿佛进入无序状态”
An ecologically minded experiment to make Paris a cycling capital has led to a million people now pedaling daily — and to rising tensions with pedestrians. “It’s chaos!” exclaimed Sarah Famery, a 20-year resident of the Marais neighborhood, shaking a fist at a swarm of bikes. “It’s becoming risky just to cross the street!”
为了让巴黎成为骑行之都，一场具有生态意识的实验导致每天上百万人骑车上街——加剧了骑行者与行人的紧张关系。“全乱套了！”在玛莱区住了20年的莎拉·法默里叫嚷道，并冲着一堆自行车挥舞拳头。“连过马路都变得危险了！”
— By Liz Alderman; photographs by Dmitry Kostyukov
——撰文：Liz Alderman，摄影：Dmitry Kostyukov
意大利蒙法尔科内港，一些前往威尼斯的游船停靠在了这里。
意大利蒙法尔科内港，一些前往威尼斯的游船停靠在了这里。 GIULIA MARCHI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Looking for St. Mark’s Square? You May Find Yourself in a Shipyard Instead.
寻找圣马可广场？你也许会发现自己到了一家造船厂
On the weekend that Venice’s ban on cruise ships took effect, some tourists were surprised to be docked hours away from the city’s famous sights. “It’s not exactly as charming as Venice,” said the honeymooning Vittoria Comparone, as she looked out from her ships’ cabin — not over St. Mark’s Square, but at towering cranes.
在威尼斯游船禁令生效后的周末，一些游客停靠在了距离著名景点还有几小时行程的地方，这让他们惊讶无比。“这可不像威尼斯那样迷人，”正在度蜜月的维多利亚·康帕龙说，她从船舱里向外看——看到的并不是圣马可广场，而是高耸的起重机吊臂。
— By Jason Horowitz; photographs by Giulia Marchi
——撰文：Jason Horowitz，摄影：Giulia Marchi
21岁的克里斯蒂娜·伯宁抱着她的奶牛艾莉，身边是她的姊妹席琳和米歇尔。
21岁的克里斯蒂娜·伯宁抱着她的奶牛艾莉，身边是她的姊妹席琳和米歇尔。 LENA MUCHA FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
On This German Farm, Cows Are in Charge. Or at Least Coequals.
在这家德国农场，奶牛当家。或者至少跟当家平起平坐
The cows don’t have to produce milk. The pigs sleep late. Their only purpose is to live peacefully — and provoke questions about how we eat. “We need to think about how we can live differently, and we need to leave animals in peace,” said Karin Mück who helps run an ex-dairy farm in Germany turned into an animal retirement home.
奶牛不需要产奶。猪睡懒觉。它们存在的唯一目的就是过自己的安静日子——并引发关于人类饮食方式的疑问。“我们需要思考如何以不同的方式生活，我们需要给动物一片清净的空间，”卡琳·穆克说，她在德国帮忙经营着一家由奶牛农场改造而成的动物养老院。
— By Melissa Eddy; photographs by Lena Mucha
——撰文：Melissa Eddy；摄影：Lena Mucha
在被塔利班占领前不久，阿富汗喀布尔市中心的一名果汁小贩。
在被塔利班占领前不久，阿富汗喀布尔市中心的一名果汁小贩。 MUJIB MASHAL/THE NEW YORK TIMES
A Journey Through Kabul on the Day of the Fall
告别曾经的喀布尔，告别一个希望的时代
A Times correspondent who grew up in the Afghan capital returned just before the Taliban’s victory, taking in the end of one era and the fearful start of another: “In the hours before the Taliban walked into Kabul, and the two-decade quest to build a democratic Afghanistan tumbled into fear and uncertainty, I left my parents’ home to take a bus around the city. This was not a reporting outing. It was personal.”
一位在阿富汗首都长大的时报记者在塔利班获胜前回到喀布尔，感受了一个时代的结束和另一个时代充满恐惧的开始：“在塔利班进入喀布尔、让20年来建设民主阿富汗的征途陷入恐惧和不安之前的几个小时，我走出父母家门，乘公交在这座城市兜圈。这不是外出报道。这是为了我自己。”
— By Mujib Mashal; photographs by Mr. Mashal and Jim Huylebroek
——撰文：Mujib Mashal；照片：Mashal Mashal和Jim Huylebroek
海啸发生一个月后的气仙废墟，一户人家后院里脏兮兮的夹克衫。
海啸发生一个月后的气仙废墟，一户人家后院里脏兮兮的夹克衫。 HIROKO MASUIKE/THE NEW YORK TIMES
A 1,000-Year-Old Japanese Village, Erased
具有千年历史的日本村庄消亡
The earthquake and tsunami of March 11, 2011, wiped away the ancient Japanese village of Kesen. In the past decade, a small group of survivors has valiantly tried to rebuild the community, but a grim reality has set in: This emptiness will likely last forever.
2011年3月11日的地震和海啸摧毁了日本古老的村庄气仙。过去10年里，一小群勇敢的幸存者试图重建社区，但一个严峻的现实出现了：这种空空荡荡可能会永远持续下去。
— Photographs by Hiroko Masuike; written by Russell Goldman
——照片：Hiroko Masuike；撰文：Russell Goldman
游客在俄罗斯西伯利亚贝加尔湖的干净冰面上拍照。
游客在俄罗斯西伯利亚贝加尔湖的干净冰面上拍照。
For Russians in a Pandemic, Lake Baikal Is the Place to See and Be Seen
没了外国游客，贝加尔湖迎来“俄罗斯季”
With borders closed because of the pandemic, crowds of Russian tourists have traded tropical beaches for Lake Baikal’s icicle-draped shores. What’s the appeal, especially when the temperature is subzero? “The assault on the senses is otherworldly,” writes our correspondent. “The silence around you is interrupted every few seconds by the cracking underneath — groans, bangs and weird, techno-music twangs. Look down, and the imperfections of the glass-clear ice emerge as pale, shimmering curtains.”
边境因疫情而关闭，大批俄罗斯游客将旅游目的地从热带海滩换成贝加尔湖冰柱覆盖的湖岸。是什么吸引着他们，尤其是当温度低于零度时？“感官会受到异乎寻常的冲击，”我们的记者写道。“每隔几秒钟，你周围的沉静就会被下面的裂缝打断——低吟声、砰砰声和怪异的类似电子乐拨弦的声音。往下看，玻璃般透明冰面的瑕疵像是闪闪发光的浅色窗帘。”
— By Anton Troianovski; photographs by Sergey Ponomarev
——撰文：Anton Troianovski；照片：Sergey Ponomarev
以色列海法，一头野猪过马路。以色列于2019年禁止射杀这种动物。
以色列海法，一头野猪过马路。以色列于2019年禁止射杀这种动物。 DAN BALILTY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Where Boars Hog the Streets
野猪占领街道
Groups of boars have become an unavoidable presence in Haifa, Israel, charming some while scaring others. “It became like an everyday thing,” said a chef who lets his dog play with the boars that putter around city parks. Bumping into one is “like seeing a squirrel.”
在以色列海法，成群结队的野猪已经成为不可避免的存在，一些人觉得有趣而另一些人感到害怕。“这已经变得像一种生活常态，”一位厨师说，他让他的狗和在城市公园游走的野猪玩耍。碰上一头野猪“就像看到一只松鼠”般平常。
— By Patrick Kingsley; photographs by Dan Balilty
——撰文：Patrick Kingsley；照片：Dan Balilty
乔·加拉格尔在爱尔兰奥法利郡的普洛为一名男子进行“偏方治疗”。
乔·加拉格尔在爱尔兰奥法利郡的普洛为一名男子进行“偏方治疗”。 PAULO NUNES DOS SANTOS FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Secret Charms and 7th Sons: ‘The Cure’ Is Alive and Well in Ireland
神秘咒语和第七个儿子：在爱尔兰，“偏方”大行其道
Belief in the benefits of the cure, a type of folk medicine that interweaves home remedies with superstition, religion and a sprinkle of magic is still a way of life in pockets of Ireland. “That we don’t believe in miracles doesn’t mean we don’t hope for them,” a professor of Irish folklore said.
一种民间医学将家庭药剂与迷信、宗教和魔法交织在一起，在爱尔兰一些地区，对这种偏方的笃信仍然是一种生活方式。“我们不相信奇迹，并不意味着我们不希望有奇迹，”爱尔兰民俗学教授说。
— By Megan Specia; photographs by Paulo Nunes dos Santos
——撰文：Megan Specia；照片：Paulo Nunes dos Santos
黄昏时刻，一组研究人员捕捉从考冲帕兰洞穴飞出的蝙蝠。
黄昏时刻，一组研究人员捕捉从考冲帕兰洞穴飞出的蝙蝠。 ADAM DEAN FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Thai Caves Attract Millions of Bats (and Now Scientists Too)
泰国洞穴吸引了数百万只蝙蝠（现在也引来了科学家）
A cave complex at a temple in Thailand has long drawn tourists, pilgrims and guano collectors. Now, scientists have arrived, looking for links to the coronavirus. “I’m worried that one day bats will only be a legend here,” said a monk at a nearby temple. “If we lose our bats, we lose what makes us special.”
泰国一座寺庙的洞穴群长期以来一直吸引着游客、朝圣者和鸟粪收集者。现在，科学家们来到这里寻找与新冠病毒相关的线索。“我担心有一天我们只剩下蝙蝠的传说，”附近寺庙的一位僧人说。“如果我们失去了蝙蝠，我们就会失去让我们与众不同的东西。”
— By Hannah Beech; photographs by Adam Dean
——撰文：Hannah Beech；照片：Adam Dean
艺术家艾琳·加西亚-伊内斯和旅店老板耶稣·哈托与他们的驴子奥斯卡一起在圣地亚哥朝圣之路上。
艺术家艾琳·加西亚-伊内斯和旅店老板耶稣·哈托与他们的驴子奥斯卡一起在圣地亚哥朝圣之路上。 SAMUEL ARANDA FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
On Spain’s Camino de Santiago, Even Óscar the Donkey Is a Pilgrim
在西班牙圣地亚哥朝圣之路上，就连驴子奥斯卡也是一位朝圣者
An artist and an innkeeper have enlisted the help of a burro in their effort to rescue the traditions of Spain’s ancient pilgrimage route from mass tourism (and selfies). “Losing these traditions, it’s like what if we lost the pyramids?” said one of the pilgrims. “We put a lot of value on monuments, but less on the small things.”
一位艺术家和一位旅店老板希望通过驴子的帮助，将西班牙古老的朝圣路线传统从大众旅游（和自拍）中解救出来。“失去这些传统，就好像说，如果我们失去了金字塔怎么办？”一位朝圣者说。“我们非常重视纪念碑，但不够重视这些小事。”
— By Nicholas Casey; photographs by Samuel Aranda
——撰文：Nicholas Casey；照片：Samuel Aranda
在卢旺达基加利的一家牛奶吧。
在卢旺达基加利的一家牛奶吧。 JACQUES NKINZINGABO FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
At Rwanda’s Favorite Bars, Forget the Beer: Milk Is What’s on Tap
在卢旺达最受欢迎的酒吧，不点啤酒：来杯牛奶
Milk is a favorite drink in Rwanda, and milk bars serve it up in abundance, fresh or fermented, hot or cold. “When you drink milk, you always have your head straight and your ideas right,” a patron said.
牛奶是卢旺达最受欢迎的饮品，牛奶吧供应大量新鲜或发酵、热或冷的牛奶。“当你喝牛奶时，你总是头脑清醒，想得明白，”一位顾客说。
— By Abdi Latif Dahir; photographs by Jacques Nkinzingabo
——撰文：Abdi Latif Dahir；照片：Jacques Nkinzingabo
78岁的全宋子、77岁的洪锡顺和85岁的罗正顺。她们乘坐的出租车只需要花非常少的钱。
78岁的全宋子、77岁的洪锡顺和85岁的罗正顺。她们乘坐的出租车只需要花非常少的钱。 JEAN CHUNG FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
‘It’s a Godsend’: 9-Cent Taxi Rides in Rural South Korea
“天上掉下来的好事”：改变韩国农村的“百元出租车”
One county’s plan to help older, carless citizens stuck in remote villages proved wildly popular and has been copied across South Korea, revolutionizing public transportation in the countryside. “I probably know more about these old folks than anyone else because I drive them two or three times a week,” said one of the a 100-won (9 cent) taxi drivers.
在韩国的偏远村庄，无车老人难以出行，一个郡政府为此提供的帮助计划广受欢迎，并复制到韩国各地，彻底改变了农村的公共交通。“我可能比别人更了解这些老人，因为我每星期都要载他们两三次，”一位百元出租车司机说。
— By Sang-Hun Choe; photographs by Jean Chung
——撰文：Sang-Hun Choe；照片：Jean Chung
翻译：纽约时报中文网

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