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-"""How To Grow Potatoes In A Greenhouse
-You can easily grow potatoes in a greenhouse so you can harvest your favorite varieties all year round. Plus, growing potatoes in a greenhouse, hoop house, or cold frame not only keeps potato plants safe from frost but also numerous pests. You can grow potatoes in raised beds, grow bags, or pots, so you can even do it in small spaces.
-To grow potatoes in a greenhouse, you’ll want to first find seed potatoes of your preferred variety, then decide on a location. You can grow potatoes in a raised bed, but any container that’s at least 24 inches tall and about 18 inches in diameter will do.
-When done right, you can get continuous harvests of potatoes that taste better than anything you can find in the store. So are you ready to get your hands dirty and learn how to grow potatoes in a greenhouse? Read on!
-Quick overview of growing potatoes in a greenhouse
-Type: cold-season crop
-Time from seed to harvest: 80-100 days
-Germination temp: 4°C
-Time until first emergence: 14-28 days
-Best temp to grow: 18-21°C
-Height: 18-36 in
-Spread: 18-36 in
-Grow from seed: 7-8 in deep, 10-12 in apart in rows 36 in apart;
-Companions: cabbage, corn, chives, cilantro, leeks
-Keep away from: tomatoes, eggplants, fennel, pumpkins, root vegetables
-The benefits of growing potatoes in a greenhouse
-Garden potatoes are typically planted a few weeks before the last frost date, or when the soil is at least 7-12°C. In most regions, this is usually around April. But in warmer climates, potatoes are often planted in the fall or even winter for a spring harvest!
-Because they are frost-tender and don’t love extreme heat, potatoes grown outside are limited to the seasons. In a greenhouse, however, you can control variables such as light and temperature, allowing you to extend the growing season. This way you can easily have several harvests of potatoes in a single year, or more!
-You can grow potatoes in the winter
-There’s nothing quite like a freshly-harvested potato. Like tomatoes, they taste remarkably better fresh than they do after weeks or months of storage.
-In winter, grocery stores typically only stock a handful of potato varieties that have been kept in storage since the previous season or have been imported from abroad. With a greenhouse, you can plant potatoes using a method called succession planting, planting potatoes in intervals so you can have regular, extended harvests!
-Depending on your climate, you can grow potatoes this way in the winter even in an unheated greenhouse. Even in colder climates, you can continue growing your potatoes through the winter as long as you supplement with some heat and light.
-How to pick the right variety of potato to grow
-Did you know that there are thousands of varieties of potatoes? Historically, they’ve been cultivated throughout the Andes, particularly in Peru, but over the last two centuries they’ve become one of the top food crops in the world.
-Grocery stores typically only carry a handful of the most popular potatoes, such as Russets or Burbanks. When growing potatoes at home or in your greenhouse, you can choose from many different kinds of potatoes, which is both an exciting and daunting opportunity.
-To make it a little easier, we’ll help you understand the three main kinds of potatoes, and some of our favorite varieties to grow in the greenhouse!
-First early potatoes
-First early potatoes are also known as “new” potatoes because they’re typically the first ones to be harvested. These varieties are usually planted a few weeks before the average last frost date because they can tolerate a light frost.
-For that reason, first early potatoes are a particularly good option for growing in a greenhouse during the winter, especially an unheated one.
-Our favorite varieties of first early potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Yukon Gold, Dark Red Norland, and Purple Viking.
-Second early potatoes
-As suggested, second early potatoes, or mid-season potatoes, take a few more weeks to mature than first early potatoes. They taste best when just harvested, so they’re a great option to grow at home for year-round eating.
-An often-overlooked advantage of growing first early or second early potatoes is that they tend to be less prone to common potato diseases, because the potatoes are harvested before the disease has had a chance to take hold.
-Our favorite varieties of second early potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Kennebec, Red Chieftain, and Gold Rush.
-Maincrop potatoes
-Maincrop potatoes, or late-season potatoes, take the longest to mature and set good-sized potatoes. Due to the longer growing season, these varieties tend to be better for long-term storage and are more often found in grocery stores.
-Maincrop potatoes are a good option for greenhouse growing if you have a short growing season but would still like to grow some good storage potatoes. These potatoes tend to be great options for baking, mashing, or frying.
-Our favorite varieties of maincrop potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Burbank Russet, French Fingerling, and German Butterball.
-How to plant potatoes in a greenhouse
-Depending on your greenhouse setup, you have several different options for planting potatoes. You can either choose to grow potatoes in pots or raised beds, and both have some distinct advantages.
-Planting in pots vs. raised beds
-Planting potatoes in pots or planters makes growing potatoes easy. When placed in your greenhouse, your potatoes are safe from many animals, pests, and diseases, but also give you the flexibility of moving them around.
-While any pot at least 24 inches deep and 12-18 inches wide will be able to accommodate 1-2 potato plants, you can also find many specialized potato planters. Compared to other pots, these planters have openings that allow for observing your potatoes as they develop and harvesting “new” potatoes without digging.
-It’s important that the container you choose is deep enough to add more soil as the plants grow in a process called hilling. This protects your potatoes from the sunlight and results in a better harvest.
-While growing potatoes in a container is easy, you can also plant your potatoes in raised beds with no issues. Just make sure that the bed is deep enough for the roots to develop properly, and that you have room to hill the potato plants several times through their growing season.
-Planting preparation
-When planting potatoes in a raised bed, you can plant them just as you would if you were farming an open field. Keep in mind that potatoes thrive in loose, well-drained soil, so the beds should have compost or high quality potting soil. Potatoes are also high feeders, so it’s a good idea to mix in some organic fertilizer at the time of planting.
-If choosing to plant in containers, you might consider choosing a planter bag made of fabric or sturdy plastic. These flexible bags are great for growing potatoes because they allow the spuds to grow relatively freely.
-Whichever method you choose, it’s good to chit your potatoes first. This process is simple: just set the seed potatoes out in a dark spot in your greenhouse to allow them to start developing some sprouts on the eyes!
-Lastly, because potatoes are sensitive to freezing temperatures, it’s important to either heat your greenhouse or use frost covers if there are indications that the temperature may fall below freezing.
-How to plant seed potatoes
-Planting potatoes is incredibly easy. Just keep these tips in mind:
-Make sure to only use certified seed potatoes that are disease-resistant and haven’t been treated with sprout inhibitors.
-Examine the seed potatoes thoroughly before planting and cut off all symptoms of rot.
-Larger seed potatoes can be cut in multiple pieces that have at least 1-2 eyes. Seed potatoes smaller than an egg should be planted whole.
-Allow at least 24 hours for cut exteriors to harden before sowing, or the seed potato may rot in moist soil before it has a chance to sprout.
-Some gardeners allow the seed potatoes to grow sprouts before planting by leaving them in a dark and warm place 16-29°C. If you do this, be careful not to break the sprouts off when handling.
-When planting in a raised bed, plant seed potatoes about 12 inches apart (eye side up!) and space the rows about 3 feet apart. Cover the potatoes with approximately 3-4 inches of soil and water well.
-How to care for potatoes in a greenhouse
-To ensure a good crop of potatoes, you can’t just leave them alone and forget about them for 4 months. Luckily, it doesn’t take a lot of effort to care for potato plants.
-Hilling up potato plants
-Unlike most plants, potato plants will develop new roots (and tubers) when the stem gets covered up in a process called “hilling up.”
-There are a few reasons why hilling up is important for potatoes. First, if potatoes are exposed to daylight, they will start to turn green. While the chlorophyll isn’t dangerous, it indicates the presence of solanine, a toxic compound that can cause headaches or nausea when consumed.
-Another purpose of hilling potatoes is to improve the harvest, as more potatoes will develop along the submerged stem.
-The best time to start hilling is when your plants attain a height of 8-12 inches:
-Add more soil or compost along both sides of the stem in a hill formation. When growing in containers, simply add more soil to the pot.
-Proceed to “earth up” every time the plants are at least 4 inches above the soil. If you are planting in a container, continue hilling until you are up to 2 inches from the top of your container.
-Hilling up has the added benefit of preventing weed problems, cooling the soil, and preserving moisture. At the end of the season, you can reuse the soil in the garden or add it to your compost pile.
-Water requirements
-Your potatoes will rot in the soil if they are overwatered, but that doesn’t mean they should sit dry, either. Make sure to water your potato plants regularly, especially when tuber-formation begins. Remember that soil in containers dries out faster than in raised beds, so be prepared to water more often.
-Maintain a moist (but not soggy) soil when the potato plants begin sprouting until a few more weeks after blossoming. Avoid watering too much in the first few weeks after planting to avoid the seed potatoes from rotting or developing disease.
-It is best to use rainwater from a water barrel instead of tap water. Tap water usually has a neutral to high pH or alkaline and potatoes grow best in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.5. They can develop scab in more alkaline soils.
-Soil requirements
-Potatoes are heavy feeders, so make sure to plant them in rich soil with organic fertilizer mixed in. Potatoes grow best in an acidic soil between 5 and 5.5, in more alkaline soils potatoes tend to develop scab. You can test your soil pH easily at home, and amend if needed with sulfur or pine needle mulch.
-Another tip to get near-perfect skins for your potatoes is to put the compost into a shredder to make a fine blend.
-Common potato pests and diseases
-One of the most common issues with home-grown potatoes is the development of scab, or rough patches on the skins that are tough and ugly. Potato scab is usually caused by high pH levels in the soil, which can be amended if necessary.
-Every potato grower’s worst fear is potato blight, which usually emerges after a period of warm, wet weather. If your greenhouse is particularly warm and humid, you’ll have to keep an eye out for signs of blight. You can grow early potatoes to further reduce the risk, but make sure to always use fresh soil and rotate crops in raised beds.
-Aphids are small pests that may feed on foliage and spread viral diseases. They extract fluids from the leaves and stems of your potato plants, which may cause serious damage. Insecticidal soaps are effective at controlling infestations, or you can manually remove the bugs with a jet of water.
-Colorado potato beetles can be handpicked or be eaten by birds. If you see more of them, you can apply an organic pesticide at dawn or dusk to prevent hurting beneficial insects.
-How to harvest your greenhouse-grown potatoes
-Potatoes, especially those of the earlier varieties, take between 80-100 days to mature. Cut off the water supply about a week before the anticipated harvest date. This helps to ensure the soil in your greenhouse or planter is dry enough for harvesting.
-After your potato plants start to flower, you can collect some early “new” potatoes. The plant heads will die back eventually, at which point the whole crop can be harvested. Dig gently with a garden fork to avoid puncturing the tubers.
-For potatoes grown in containers, simply empty out the soil onto the ground or in a wheelbarrow and separate your potatoes by hand. Ensure you harvest all tubers no more than a few weeks after the vines die back so that the tubers don’t rot in the ground.
-Harvest your potatoes on a dry day to simplify your job. A wet soil could mean that you will have to wait until the potatoes are air-dried before placing them into bags or boxes.
-Storing your potatoes
-Greenhouse-grown potatoes are best eaten the day they’re harvested, but they can be stored if needed. Store potatoes in a cool dry place preferably around 7-16°C for up to a couple of weeks. This will let their skins cure and help them last longer.
-Brush off any remaining soil after curing. Don’t wash the potatoes unless you are ready to cook them. Washing them may reduce their shelf life. Place them in a dark and humid place with a temperature of around 3-4°C.
-Also, don’t put your potatoes near apples to prevent them from spoiling. Apples contain ethylene gas which makes them ripen faster. Don’t refrigerate your potatoes."""
-"HOW TO GET EARLY POTATOES IN THE GREENHOUSE
-At one time the potato was something you would feed the pigs with, but today it is almost like gold, and we fight so valiantly to get the gold and be among the first to get it. You can easily join this fight when you have a greenhouse.
-The easiest way to cultivate potatoes in your greenhouse is to use a container. It does not matter whether it is an old rain boot (which by the way can be quite decorative), a large biscuit tin, a plastic bag or a bucket as long as there is a drain in it so the water can drain away.
-HOW TO DO IT
-Choose an early sort
-There are several hundred different varieties of potatoes, but you need to get hold of those that are the earliest to crop.
-I will recommend: “Solist”, “Hamlet”, “Frieslander” and “Sofia”
-Seed potatoes or your own potatoes
-You can use your own potatoes from your garden or table potatoes you have bought. If you choose to use your own from the garden, you must make sure that they are free of diseases. If they are not, they can infect your new potatoes. You can also buy seed potatoes which are not infected with any viruses, but they may have other plant diseases so check that they are healthy-looking before you buy them. Seed potatoes should have a medium size.
-Pre-germination
-To pre-germinate means that you prepare the potatoes for sprouting. Sometimes the potatoes have already begun this process when you buy them. There are two ways.
-The first method says that you can place them somewhere dark and with a temperature of 22 degrees for 14 days. When the shoots are 5 cm long, they are moved to somewhere with more light at a temperature of 15 degrees. Hereafter they are ready to be put outside after a couple of days.
-A more common method is to place them somewhere with light at 16 degrees Celsius for 6 weeks. This makes the shoots thick and they do not easily break. But both methods work, and if you want, you can try both and see what works best for you.
-Transplant in buckets
-When your potatoes have been through the pre-germination process, you can transplant them to buckets.
-The benefit of this is that you can take out the buckets in case the potatoes are not ready when you are about to transplant tomatoes. Tomatoes and potatoes together are not a good match.
-The first thing I do is to fill the buckets with soil. Then a lump of sheep wool (not a must), the potato on top of the wool and then soil again. Wool is good to store water even when it is being decomposed to fertiliser.
-Tips
-Boe Jørgensen, an experienced Danish horticulturist, shares the method he uses when cultivating in the greenhouse.
-First week in March
-Place the pre-germinated potatoes in milk or juice cartons without a bottom and with some topsoil the first week in March and place them in a plastic bucket filled with 5 cm peat.
-Plant the potato in the middle of the carton with soil on top and under it.
-Soak the soil in the carton and place the bucket somewhere inside the house where the temperature is between 15-20 degrees.
-The peat in the bucket should always be fairly moist.
-Between 25th and 28th March
-Now the potatoes can be transplanted to the greenhouse. This is done in 12 litres buckets with compost. Remember to irrigate. (Boe has an automatic irrigation system). Especially while the potatoes are forming tubers, they should never be in need of water. Potatoes are not frost resistant so if there is a chance of days or nights with frost they must be covered. You can for instance use bubble wrap. One time Boe had to use a warming cable. Alternatively, you can use a greenhouse heater. Should they get damaged by the frost, then the buds will start coming up again, but this will delay the project.
-Potatoes are ready to be harvested 15th May.
-Duration
-From pre-germination to transplantation 5-6 weeks
-From planting to harvesting 80-100 days
-The potato sort determines the usage
-The potatoes that most of us know are the potatoes called table potatoes.
-As previously mentioned, there are many potato varieties. And some sorts are more suitable for mash or backed potatoes compared to those you use for boiling or roasted potatoes. If you make backed potatoes, it is best if they are not too firm. And if it is for mashed potatoes, they must be able to become mushy after they are boiled."
-"What are the Ideal Conditions for Greenhouse Tomatoes?
-Tomatoes grow in relatively warm temperatures, making them the perfect greenhouse crop. Compared to outdoor tomato cultivation, growing in a controlled greenhouses increases yields and quality, reduces pests and diseases, and increases the growing season.
-Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables (well, fruit…) in the world. So, it’s no surprise that they’re one of the most common crops in commercial horticulture. In fact, in 2020, over 185 million kgs were grown globally, on over 5 million hectares.
-Tomato plants have a relatively short growing season, contrasted by a high demand year-round. Which is one of the main reasons growers around the world choose to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse.
-The ability to control the temperature, humidity level, and lighting, allow growers to provide ideal growing conditions throughout the year. In most of the world, this wouldn’t be possible without a controlled environment.
-Optimal Growing Conditions for Tomato Crops
-Greenhouse cultivation has many benefits, but not without challenges. Cultivating tomatoes in a closed environment requires growers to create the optimal growing conditions, rather than rely on the weather.
-This guide will help you provide the ideal tomato growing conditions. It’s important to remember, however, that specific conditions may differ between different tomato varieties.
-Ideal Temperature for Tomato Greenhouse
-Maintaining the right temperature is one of the most basic functions of greenhouse, regardless of how technological or advanced it is.
-Providing optimal temperatures allows the plants to take in and break down nutrients as efficiently as possible. This leads to faster growth and fruit development. If conditions are too cold, or too warm, the plants will experience stress, which affects growth, as well as quality. In a temperature-controlled environment, there’s no reason to reach temperatures outside of the ideal range.
-The ideal temperature for tomato cultivation is between 21-27°C (70-82°F). This range is also best during pollination. These temperatures are considered optimal for day time. During the night, tomato crops may enjoy lower temperatures, reaching 16-18°C (62-64°F).
-Tomato plants grow best within this range, meaning they will exhibit the quickest development, largest yields, and highest fruit quality. However, depending on the variety, they may be able to grow well between 15-32°C (59-89°F).
-The ideal temperature to germinate tomato seeds is between 18-29°C (65-85°F).
-Ideal Temperatures for Tomato Cultivation:
-Day time – 21-27°C (70-82°F)
-Night time – 16-18°C (62-64°F)
-Seed germination – 18-29°C (65-85°F)
-How to Maintain Optimal Temperatures for Tomatoes
-Maintaining the right temperature for tomatoes differs from greenhouse to greenhouse. Some greenhouses are located in warmer climates than others. So, while most greenhouses require heating, some actually need cooling to reach the ideal range.
-You can use ducts, heat pumps, boilers, chillers, HVAC, or other forms of air conditioning depending on your local climate.
-Ideal Humidity for Tomato Greenhouse
-Humidity, like temperature, has a major impact on tomato plants’ growth, development, yield and quality. In order to reach full potential, it’s important to maintain the right relative humidity level, or VPD range.
-Outside of the ideal range, plants will struggle to perform physiological tasks, such as taking in nutrients or performing photosynthesis.
-When humidity is too high, the tomato plants won’t be able to evaporate water through their stomata. This stops them from being able to take in more water and nutrients from the soil, inhibiting development.
-Low humidity, on the other hand, will lead to water stress. In this case, the stomata close, in order to retain water. This has a similar effect, in which the plant shuts down important processes, slowing down growth and development.
-It’s also important to note that many common diseases and mildews develop in high humidity, including botrytis and powdery mildew. So, maintaining ideal humidity levels also protects against diseases and reduces crop loss.
-The optimal relative humidity level for tomatoes is between 60-85% RH. However, you can improve growth further by dialing in different relative humidity set points for night and day.
-During the day, tomato plants may enjoy higher humidity levels of 80-85% RH. However, during the night, when the plants are less active, humidity levels of 65-75% are ideal.
-The ideal relative humidity level for pollination is around 70%. In higher humidity, pollen may stick together, making it harder to disperse. In lower humidity, the plants’ stigma tends to dry out, reducing its ability to collect pollen.
-In terms of VPD, the ideal range for tomatoes is generally between 0.5-0.8 kPa. However, higher VPD levels may be better during later developmental stages, such as flowering. In these stages optimal VPD levels can reach 1.2 kPa.
-Ideal Relative Humidity & VPD for Tomato Cultivation:
-Day time – 60-85% RH
-Night time – 65-75% RH
-Pollination – 70% RH
-VPD – 0.5-1.2 kPa
-How to Maintain Optimal Humidity for Tomatoes
-It’s important to note that tomato crops, like all plants, release water vapor. So, in fact, they increase the humidity levels around them. In a closed environment, this will inevitably lead to high humidity.
-Humidity is a complex issue. There are numerous factors that impact it. So it may be difficult to predict relative humidity levels at all times, throughout the growing space. Some factors that directly affect humidity include temperatures, grow lights, irrigation systems and airflow.
-In most cases, greenhouse growers will need to reduce humidity, rather than increase it. There are two main methods to do so – through heating and ventilation, or through dehumidification.
-Heating and venting is the traditional way greenhouse operators deal with humidity. It involves opening up windows and vents, in order to let the humid air out.
-However, releasing air from inside and introducing outdoor air affects the conditions inside. In most cases, the air outside is cooler, meaning it lowers the temperature inside the greenhouse. That means you need more heating to compensate for the heat loss.
-Heating and venting may be useful and even efficient when weather outside is fair. However, this method is highly inefficient in cold, humid, or rainy conditions, requiring a lot of additional heating just to maintain temperatures. Additionally, this method might not work in high humidity or rain, leaving growers with no solution.
-So, in most climates, the only way to fully control humidity and ensure ideal conditions, is to use dedicated dehumidifiers. Dehumidification systems that are designed for greenhouse use provide the most comprehensive and energy efficient way to control humidity. In fact, using DryGair has been found to save an average of 50% on total energy consumption, compared to ventilation.
-Use Air Circulation to Further Improve Conditions
-Another important part of humidity control is air flow. While maintaining an overall ideal humidity level is crucial, conditions can vary throughout the greenhouse. Most importantly, humidity may be higher between densely placed plants, or inside the foliage.
-These pockets of humid air are known as microclimates. They can be detrimental to tomato plants, slowing down growth and leading to disease outbreaks. This is especially problematic with grown tomato plants, due to the high amounts of foliage.
-Different types of tomato crops may be more at risk from this issue, such as determinate tomatoes with many side shoots. However, indeterminate varieties aren’t risk-free, and still require comprehensive humidity control.
-Maintaining constant air movement helps disperse these microclimates. But not all airflow is equally effective.
-Air circulation is a type of airflow in which the air is circulated throughout the entire space. As opposed to simple horizontal or vertical fans, air circulation doesn’t create multiple competing airflow directions. Rather, it creates cohesive air movement. This doesn’t just disperse humid microclimates, but also creates uniform conditions throughout the entire space.
-All DryGair units include a patented air circulation module that ensures ideal conditions at all points in the greenhouse. This is a critical part of tomato cultivation, significantly reducing common disease outbreaks, such as botrytis.
-Additional Tips for Greenhouse Tomato Cultivation
-Creating ideal growing conditions is key to producing large yields of high-quality tomatoes.
-However, there are additional things you can do to further improve growth, prevent diseases, and save money by reducing energy costs.
-Avoid Wet Surfaces
-Some of the most common molds and mildews require water in order to develop. So, the most effective way to avoid these detrimental diseases is by avoiding the presence of water in your greenhouse.
-There are two ways in which free water reaches the greenhouse. First, is through irrigation. When plants are watered from above, some of the water remains on the leaves and fruit. Under these conditions, disease development and spreading are very likely.
-To prevent plants from getting wet, water or add the nutrient solution straight to the soil or potting mix.
-The second way in which water appears in the greenhouse is through high humidity. When relative humidity reaches 100%, water starts to condense on various surfaces, including railings, equipment, and even on the plants themselves.
-However, proper humidity control and air circulation prevent this condensation from occurring.
-Keep Space Between Plants
-High humidity and wet plants become increasingly problematic the more crowded the greenhouse is. When plants overlap, they prevent air from flowing between the leaves and increase the amount of moisture within the foliage. This makes it incredibly difficult to maintain ideal humidity levels between the leaves, where it matters most.
-So, in order to be able to control conditions, it’s important to have enough space between plants.
-Of course, this can work both ways. Proper dehumidification reduces the overall humidity level and provides powerful air circulation, allowing you to decrease the space between plants. It’s all about creating the right balance for your growing facility."
-"How Long Does it Take to Grow Tomatoes?
-We’re sometimes asked how long it takes to grow tomatoes. It’s a good question, so we thought we’d take the opportunity to answer it here. With a Click & Grow smart garden, you can produce a mini tomato harvest starting from 98 days after planting.
-In this article we’ll look at some key things to remember when growing tomatoes indoors and outdoors.
-Growing tomatoes in a smart indoor garden
-If this is your first time growing Click & Grow mini tomatoes, here’s a quick timeline of what to expect at each growth stage. A Click & Grow mini tomato plant pod contains pre-gardened tomato seeds. The optimum indoor room temperature for growing mini tomatoes is 68°F – 95°F.
-7 - 21 days: When sprouts appear, thin your tomato seedlings to one per pod. This will help your plant get the space, light and nutrients it needs.
-22 - 39 days: Stake tomato plants when they’re young. It will help them grow upright and bear the weight of their fruit later on.
-40 - 60 days: You’ll start to notice yellow flowers on your plant. Be sure to pollinate them by shaking the plant to mimic a bee. Alternatively, use your index finger or a small brush to transfer pollen from one blossom to another.
-61 - 72 days: Don’t be alarmed if you notice yellow petals falling off. Not every flower produces fruit but you’ll be rewarded with some delicious tomatoes later on.
-73 - 89 days: Around this time your plant will produce tomatoes that look green. They won’t turn red until they reach maturity.
-90 - 110 days: Your plant will start to produce beautiful ripe tomatoes. Once they’re red, they’re ready to eat, although the taste becomes even sweeter if you let them continue to grow for another 1-2 weeks.
-Enjoy every bite knowing your Click and Grow Mini tomatoes have 2.5 times more antioxidative activity and 2 times more lycopene than any other type of tomato!
-For more plant tips, be sure to download the Click & Grow mobile app. Simply register your smart garden and plant on the app and we’ll send you tips to guide you through each stage of your plant’s life cycle.
-Growing tomatoes outdoors
-Growing tomatoes outdoors is a little more complicated and there are a few things to keep in mind. After transplanting young plants to their final growing spot, it usually takes anywhere from 60 days to more than 100 days before you can harvest your tomatoes.
-Before growing varieties of tomatoes outside, the first thing to do is make sure you live in a tomato-friendly climate. Tomatoes grow best when the temperature is between 65°F and 85°F during the day. They stop growing if the temperature reaches above 95°F. If you live somewhere with a short growing season, it may be worth starting your plants indoors and transplanting them when the weather warms up.
-Click & Grow smart gardens (particularly the Smart Garden 9), are suitable for pre-growing tomato seedlings indoors. You can then plant them outdoors when they’re ready to move out. We offer experimental pods which enable you to do just that. For instance, you can pre-grow tomatoes in your indoor garden during spring and later plant them in a greenhouse once it’s warm enough.
-Two of the most popular tomatoes to grow are globe tomatoes and cherry tomatoes. Globe tomatoes are the most common type of tomato - deep red and full sized. Cherry tomatoes are their miniature, bite-sized counterparts.
-When researching which tomatoes to plant, it’s also worth noting the difference between determinate tomatoes and indeterminate tomatoes. Determinate tomato plants stop growing at a certain height, whereas indeterminate varieties continue to grow and produce tomatoes throughout the growing season.
-Tomato plants are usually started indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Transplant them outdoors when the soil reaches about 60°F.
-Tomatoes require soil that’s well drained and rich in nutrients. The best tomatoes are still grown in traditional ways by people who understand what they're doing, so if you're trying this for the first time, don’t be shy to ask around and see if there are some experienced vegetable gardeners who will mentor you.
-Here are some quick tips for getting started:
-Choose a spot where tomatoes will get at least 8 hours of sun every day.
-Prepare the soil by digging it up, removing rocks, weeds and roots and adding compost to it. Add organic fertilizer too if you want to increase the yield of your tomato plants.
-Spread the seeds out on top of the soil, about 1 inch apart from each corner to corner.
-Water your seeds every day until they sprout.
-Watch as your tomato seedlings grow up from the ground.
-Nutrition
-Did you know that tomatoes are made up of about 95% water? They’re undeniably low in carbs. The bulk of their carbohydrates are made up of simple sugars and insoluble fibers.
-Tomatoes are also a great source of dietary fiber. An average sized tomato provides you with 1.5 grams of fiber. In addition to that, tomatoes are natural sources of vitamin C, vitamin K, potassium and folate.
-Studies suggest that tomatoes may improve heart health. An example of this is how tomato products can fight inflammation and signs of oxidative stress. There’s also research that suggests tomatoes promote skin health. For instance, tomato-based foods that are rich in lycopene may protect against sunburn."
-"General Advice
-Potatoes always do best in full sun. They are aggressively rooting plants, and we find that they will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a PH of 5.0 to 7.0. Fortunately potatoes are very adaptable and will almost always produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions and growing seasons are less than perfect.
-Always keep your potato patch weed-free for best results. Potatoes should be rotated in the garden, never being grown in the same spot until there has been a 3-4 year absence of potatoes.
-When to Plant Potatoes
-Potatoes may be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the early spring, but keep soil temperatures in mind. Potato plants will not begin to grow until the soil temperature has reached 45 degrees F. The soil should be moist, but not water-logged.
-Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but you should provide some frost protection for the plants if you know that a hard, late season freeze is coming. If you want to extend storage times, and have a long growing season, you can plant a second crop as late as June 15 and harvest the potatoes as late as possible.
-Cutting Potatoes Before Planting
-A week or two before your planting date, set your seed potatoes in an area where they will be exposed to light and temperatures between 60-70 degrees F. This will begin the sprouting process. A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the larger seed potatoes into smaller pieces. Each piece should be approximately 2 inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 eyes or buds. Plant smaller potatoes whole. A good rule of thumb is to plant potatoes whole if they are smaller in size than a golf ball. In a day or so your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help prevent rotting.
-Planting Potatoes in the Garden
-We find that potatoes are best grown in rows. To begin with, dig a trench that is 6-8 inches deep. Plant each piece of potato (cut side down, with the eyes pointing up) every 12-15 inches, with the rows spaced 3 feet apart. If your space is limited or if you would like to grow only baby potatoes, you can decrease the spacing between plants.
-To begin with only fill the trench in with 4 inches of soil. Let the plants start to grow and then continue to fill in the trench and even mound the soil around the plants as they continue to grow. Prior to planting, always make sure to cultivate the soil one last time. This will remove any weeds and will loosen the soil and allow the plants to become established more quickly.
-How to Water Potatoes
-Keep your potato vines well watered throughout the summer, especially during the period when the plants are flowering and immediately following the flowering stage. During this flowering period the plants are creating their tubers and a steady water supply is crucial to good crop outcome. Potatoes do well with 1-2 inches of water or rain per week. When the foliage turns yellow and begins to die back, discontinue watering. This will help start curing the potatoes for harvest time.
-When to Harvesting Potatoes
-Baby potatoes typically can be harvested 2-3 weeks after the plants have finished flowering. Gently dig around the plants to remove potatoes for fresh eating, being careful not to be too intrusive. Try to remove the biggest new potatoes and leave the smaller ones in place so they can continue to grow. Only take what you need for immediate eating. Homegrown new potatoes are a luxury and should be used the same day that they are dug.
-Potatoes that are going to be kept for storage should not be dug until 2-3 weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully dig potatoes with a sturdy fork and if the weather is dry, allow the potatoes to lay in the field, unwashed, for 2-3 days. This curing step allows the skins to mature and is essential for good storage. If the weather during harvest is wet and rainy, allow the potatoes to cure in a dry protected area like a garage or covered porch.
-Storage Conditions
-At Seed Savers Exchange.  we are able to store potatoes well into the spring in our underground root cellar. Try to find a storage area that is well ventilated, dark, and cool. The ideal temperature is between 35 and 40 degrees F. Keep in mind that some varieties are better keepers than others. Varieties like Red Gold and Rose Gold are best used in the fall, and others like Carola and Russets are exceptional keepers.
-Saving Seed Stock
-Home gardeners can save seed for several generations. Save the very best potatoes for planting. You may find that after several years the size begins to decrease; this is typical. Potatoes are very susceptible to viruses. If you are looking for maximum yields it is best to start with fresh, USDA Certified Seed Stock every year.
-In collaboration with University of Wisconsin-Madison researchers, SSE is working to eradicate viruses from heritage potatoes in order to safely preserve potato genetic diversity and to offer high quality seed potatoes."
-"How Long Do Potatoes Take To Grow?
-It’s safe to say that growers love to watch their crops grow. We wait patiently for each sprout to mature and produce perfectly ripe fruit or vegetables. But when it comes to root vegetables, we can’t just watch and wait. We have to time the harvest just right. Pull your produce too early, and you’re stuck with unripe, tiny veggies. Wait too long and you take a risk of the crop being overripe – or even beginning to rot underground.
-How long do potatoes take to grow?
-Many things influence how long potatoes take to grow. Variables such as the potato variety, climate, seed preparation, and amount of fertilizer all play a part. Taking all these things into account, the average length of the growing season for potatoes is between 90 to 120 days, or 3 to 4 months.
-The following factors all have their part to play in how it takes potatoes to grow
-Choosing early, mid-season, or maincrop varieties
-The climate of your country
-Seed preparations such as chitting
-Potato planting date
-Desired size at harvest
-Choosing early, mid-season, or maincrop varieties
-There are three main types of potato varieties and, while some are ready in just under 3 months, some take an extra month to mature. Early varieties or new potatoes will be harvested earlier in the year than maincrop.
-Early varieties do not necessarily mean they grow faster – just that they are ready earlier in the year. The same goes for mid-season and maincrop. All potatoes take roughly the same amount of time to grow it’s just that their planting dates determine the time of year they are ready to harvest.
-Earlies
-Early potatoes planted in mid-February may only be ready by the middle of July which is around 112 days. It may be possible to harvest at 100 days in warmer climates or if they grow really well.
-You can start harvesting them as soon as the first large tubers appear – these tender young spuds can be very tasty. Their thin skin means the potatoes need to be eaten within a few days or they will spoil.
-Mid-season
-Usually, mid-season potatoes are planted in mid-March and ready by August again around 120 days. A mid-season potato is deemed mid-season as this is the optimum time of year the variety has been bred to grow.
-Maincrop
-Maincrop or late-season potatoes take between 100 to 120 days to grow and mature. They are usually the highest-yielding potato varieties and are designed to grow to full maturity and have thick skin for long-term storage.
-Maincrop potatoes are bred to mature later in the year so they are harvested in colder weather, enabling farmers to use the colder months to store them well.
-The climate of your country
-The first thing you’ll need to consider is your local climate. Potatoes don’t like very warm weather. This means that you can begin planting as soon as the danger of frost has passed and you’re able to work the soil.
-In more Northern regions, it can be a gamble to plant early potatoes earlier than March. But you can cover young shoots with plastic containers, burlap sheeting, or mulch overnight to protect them from late frosts.
-Temperature
-On the other hand, if you live in a very hot climate, you may need to plant earlier – like in December or January. You may need to avoid the extreme heat of summer – it can wreak havoc on your crop.
-Closer to the Equator, potatoes are even grown as a winter crop and you may be planting in November or December.
-It’s really all about the soil – we need both the right temperature and humidity levels.
-At planting the soil temperature should be at least 10°C (50°F). It should also be dry enough not to stick together – not only will clumpy soil be hard to plant in, but seed potatoes can rot if the soil is too wet.
-Sunlight
-Your potatoes will grow best in a sunny location with cool, loose, well-drained soil. The ideal temperature range is 16 to 20 degrees Celcius. Plant your potatoes away from high trees or hedges which prevent sunlight from getting to the plants.
-Rainfall
-If your climate has low rainfall, you will most likely need to water your potato crop. Growing potatoes require at least an inch of rain a week to grow well.
-Do all potato varieties take the same time to grow? More or less. Most potatoes can be harvested between 90 and 110 days after planting.
-Seed preparations such as chitting
-If planting earlies, you should prepare your seed potatoes ahead of planting by “chitting” them. Find a warm frost-free place that is quite dark. Stand your seed potatoes in an egg carton or seedling tray with the rose end (where you see the most eyes, or small dents) pointing up.
-When the shoots are about 2 cm (1”) long, prepare them for planting, by bringing them into the daylight where the buds will go from white and brittle to soft and green – perfect for planting with.
-This method can also be useful for maincrop potatoes. You can begin the process indoors while there is still frost in the garden. This lets you get a jumpstart on the growing season.
-Potato planting date
-Planting time varies, depending on your location and the type of potato you’re growing. In colder regions, you’ll want to plant slightly later, and in warmer climates, you can plant a little earlier. If growing in containers, then you can also plant anytime as you will be indoors.
-As a general rule, early potatoes should be planted by March. Mid-season varieties are typically planted by April and maincrop late-season potatoes by the end of May.
-While healthy potato plants can tolerate light frosts or even a mild freeze, they can’t survive hard freezes. Potatoes should be planted in cool weather – after the danger of freezing has passed, but well before hot weather sets in for the summer.
-Potato size at harvesting
-Early potatoes are harvested from late June onwards and maincrop potatoes are harvested from September onwards.
-A good rule of thumb is 100-120 days after planting. You can also watch your potato plants for signs that your crop is ready to harvest.
-You can begin to harvest earlier if you prefer smaller potatoes or you can leave them in the soil for longer if you prefer larger potatoes.
-You can check for new potatoes a few weeks after the plants have finished flowering. With their thin skins, these baby potatoes won’t be cured or stored, so only pull enough for 2-3 days, and be sure to store them somewhere cool.
-When the foliage begins to yellow and die back, your potatoes will be almost ready. You can stop watering your crop at this point, and when the plant tops have completely died, you can begin to harvest the potatoes.
-When growing with optimum fertilizer rates, your potatoes may begin to get too big. You may need to stop the crop growing by spraying with a crop desiccant or cut the tops down to soil level.
-Digging your potatoes
-Start by digging up a test hill to determine if your potatoes are mature enough to harvest. The skins of mature potatoes are thick and firmly attached to the flesh. If the skins are thin and rub off easily, your potatoes should be left in the ground for a few more days if you intend to store them
-Remember that although potatoes can tolerate a light frost, you will need to dig them out before the first hard frost is expected. You shouldn’t wash newly dug potatoes – the freshly harvested tubers need time to cure and for the skins to dry before they can be stored.
-You can cure your crop by arranging the potatoes to have good airflow through them and allowing them to sit at room temperature for about two weeks. Once cured, the potatoes can be stored in a cool, dark place for 6 months or more.
-Factors affecting maturity
-As mentioned earlier, chitting or pre-sprouting your potatoes will help cut the outdoor growing time by at least a couple of weeks.
-Covering your young potatoes at planting can help them become established as well as protect them from late frosts. You can use plastic containers, mulch, or even an old blanket. Leaving your potatoes vulnerable to frost can definitely lengthen maturation times, and also puts them at risk of dying.
-Using fertilizer will also help your plants grow well and increase their yield. You should add a suitable potato fertiliser when planting your seed potatoes. If you feel they are lacking in size later in the year – say at flowering – you can add more if you feel they need it. The fertiliser can be homemade fertiliser or bought in.
-A note about adding a large amount of fertiliser is that it can extend the growing season of the potato. So although your potatoes will be bigger, they can take longer to mature.
-Summary
-Before you put any potatoes in the ground you should have the season ahead planned from planting to harvest. You should know the type of potatoes, if they’ll be chitted, when they should be planted, how much fertilizer you’ll use, and when they should be ready to harvest. Salad or baby potatoes will take the shortest length of time to grow at around 80 days, then early and mid-season varieties at 90 to 100 days, and finally maincrop potatoes which can take 100 to 120 days on average. Good luck!"