On Lincoln, Grooming, and American History
By Matthew Bell
Steven Spielberg's newest cinematic effort went wide-release this past weekend, posting a pretty strong third-place showing at the box office. And though it didn't beat out Twilight, it did get us thinking about how guys took care of themselves back in the day. That's owing to the fact that the film does an exceptional job of bringing the look and feel of Civil War America to life. Thankfully, not the smell, which would have been overwhelming, given that most people only bathed before going to church on Sunday — if that — and toothbrushes (then made from pig bristle) were something of a luxury. Oh, and the first real, bacteria-killing deodorant (called Mum) wasn't trademarked and sold until 1888, well after Lincoln's time. Couple those factors with the popularity of Macassar oil — a precursor to pomade so slick it left grease marks on the backs of chairs — and you've got a pretty filthy situation.
Oddly enough, the management of all that filth may have actually played a role in a much larger American narrative. The wealthy, including the American President, had valets to keep them presentable and act as personal barbers — a highly coveted role for free blacks of the era. And of those valets, perhaps none was more important than William Johnson, the man in the service of our 16th president (and responsible for his famous quiff). It's conjecture, but it's not entirely out of line to venture that Johnson and Lincoln had the same kind of rapport you have with your barber today. In fact, it could well have been more intimate, given the expanse of Johnson's duties. Regardless, this much is clear: Johnson served as Lincoln's most personal and direct connection to black America at the time. And though there's few records of the conversations between the two — and not even a picture or photo of Wilson — it doesn't take too much of a leap to understand that Lincoln's personal valet may have influenced more than Honest Abe's looks. A theory? Absolutely. But one to consider, nonetheless.
James M. Cornelius, Ph. D, Curator, Lincoln Collection at the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library & Museum, had his brain extensively picked to ensure this story's historical accuracy.
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