As I walked past the weathered sculptures ravaged by time and war, depicting various deities from Hindu religion and mythology, I could not help but admire how majestic this fortress in Kalinjar had once been in its days of glory. Located on a hilltop of the Vindhyachal range, a number of dynasties including the Guptas during the 5-6 AD and Chandelas during 10 AD have ruled over this strategically located fortress of Bundelkhand. Its important position also meant it has been the target of attacks in the later years by the Mughals, Ibrahim Lodi and even the British. The actual time of the build is not known but it is speculated that the Bargujar kings built it during the 1st or 2nd centuries AD.
The Bargujar kings took pride in their art and architecture which is evident in the magnificently intricate carvings on the remains of the Neelkanth temple. The temple supposedly towered seven stories during its initial days, now only a few pillars remain outside the small cave which houses the Shiva lingam. Water seeps through the rock, keeping its surface wet at all times. Speaking to the priest, the temple has been in constant use since the day it was built. The locals take the long stairs from the village outside the fortress for their everyday worship. For the tourist, the car park is above the temple and has steep stairs going down, which means they need to be climbed back too on return.
Leaving Chitrakoot (Here is about the visit Mythological Chitrakoot), we were on our way to Khajuraho and my brother suggested we make a stop at Kalinjar. I am glad we did. With a short winter day and a number of places to visit, we did not have much time to be able to do justice to the place. Most of the fortress city is now destroyed, remnants of its majestic past lie scattered in a few old palaces and buildings as the undergrowth tries to take over. The Neelkanth temple area was all we visited, but it was good to sit for a while after the visit on the ramparts soaking in the winter sun.
Sharing some photographs from the visit.
Entrance to Neelkanth temple
Details of the artwork on the doorway
Everyone loves the ramparts
The third set of stairs finally leading down to Neelkanth temple
Ganesha at the gates - the one the locals use. Stairs lead down to the village below
Sculptures surrounding the area by the stairs we came down
Sculptures on the pillars
Intricate artwork on the pillars
Neelkanth, probably about six feet high
Not the most flattering pic, but to show the 14 feet Nataraj, Shiva in his ethereal dance form, in reference
The temple from above. This is from where the water seeps out of the rock
The temple with its priests
More sculptures around
Sculptures of deities, some still worshipped as preservation work goes on as evident from the numberings
Looking down from the ramparts, Kalinjar fortress on a hilltop
Location: Kalinjar, Uttar Pradesh 210129, India