WOTW: The All-New Fortis Marinemaster Tool Watch
A legend is reborn
Dave Sergeant
Fortis has hit a hot streak recently, and it continues to ride that streak with its latest launch: the Marinemaster! We can trace this hot run of form back to 2020, which was a good year for Fortis. The brand launched its popular Flieger collection, which we covered extensively here on Fratello. The Fratello team were fans of the sensible sizings, and excellent wearability, with a size to fit every wrist.
Moving on to 2021, Fortis then gave us the much-anticipated follow-up for the Official Cosmonaut's Chronograph AMADEE-18, the AMADEE-20. Fortis made this watch for the AMADEE-20 Mars simulation mission. As such, the operation of this Fortis timepiece might directly impact and support the human race on their way to Mars. I follow some of the Fortis team on Instagram, and I have seen some of the work they're doing out in the Negev Desert in Israel right now. It looks incredible, but I digress…
It's always tough to follow a success, but to follow two? I'm pleased to say that Fortis is cooking with gas right now, and the new Marinemaster watches are ideally placed to become the next focus of the Fortis machine. Back in August of this year, I had the opportunity to see these watches up close and in hand while visiting the Fortis offices in Grenchen.
The Marinemaster has a place in Fortis history
For fans of the brand, you may recognize the Marinemaster name. Rather than being a distinct model, Fortis used the Marinemaster nomenclature to denote that the watch was waterproof. One of the most popular Marinemasters was the ref. 6237 from the 1970s, which is famous for its colorful dial, and Super Compressor case. Another notable Marinemaster is the ref. 8001 — a chronograph model. The 8001 was not just any chronograph, though as, like the Rolex Daytona, it used the Valjoux 72 to keep things ticking on the inside! Not only that, but it also had a depth rating of 200 meters. Not bad for a dive watch from the 1970s!
The Marinemaster name had almost been lost to history in recent times, except for two reissues of the previously mentioned references, one in 2002, and the other ten years later. With the introduction of the new Marinemaster collection, Fortis is resurrecting the Marinemaster name and giving it a makeover. The new collection consists of two Models and five colors inspired by nature, and the outdoors — a fitting tribute as Fortis describes the collection as the perfect companion for any outdoor adventure.
The Marinemaster M-40
The "entry-level" model is the Marinemaster M-40 which is available in 4 different colors: Rockstone Gray, Woodpecker Green, Serenity Blue, and Snow White. The colors are not bold and bright, but instead, they're more muted in shade, but nicely so. Having seen all of these back in August, I found the Serenity Blue to be my favorite. All four colors come with the option of a super-comfy matching rubber strap or a stainless steel bracelet.
My advice? If you can, get both. The rubber strap was exceptional, and it echoes the pattern found on the dials. Recognize the pattern? It's the "O" for the Fortis logo. It's always nice to have a bracelet option, too, as it allows you to create a different character for your watch in a flash. The chronometer-standard, automatic UW30, which uses a Sellita SW200-1 base, powers the Marinemaster M-40.
Bigger and bolder than its smaller sibling, the Marinemaster M-44 only comes in one color option, Amber Orange. For the flagship model of the Marinemaster collection, it makes sense to focus the color palette around Fortis' signature hue. The dial itself is black, but it features an Amber Orange chapter ring and minute hand and a choice of matching Amber Orange rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet.
If you look closely at the images of the M-44, you may notice a little something extra at 10 o'clock. That is, in fact, a bezel lock mechanism. While not extraordinary by itself, I wanted to remark just how crisp and clean the machining and operation were. It worked perfectly and was incredibly smooth and well-engineered.
A brand new movement
A flagship watch deserves a flagship movement, so Fortis chose the WERK 11 to power the M-44. Kenissi, the movement manufacturer owned by Tudor, makes the WERK 11. It is a new manufacture caliber that Kenissi designed and tested in conjunction with Fortis, with ultimate robustness and reliability in mind. For example, the traversing balance bridge with a two-point fixation improves shock resistance and allows precise balance positioning. Furthermore, the WERK 11 is a COSC-certified chronometer with an impressive power reserve of 70 hours. Fortis has gone all out for the M-44, and the effort has paid off. While the smaller M-40 slightly better suited my wrist size, it's hard to deny the impressive technical capabilities of the M-44.
Recycled steel, baby!
A final point worth talking about with the new Marinemaster family isn't actually that new at all. When Fortis launched the Flieger F-39 and F-41 "Midnight Blue" editions earlier this year, it pledged only to use recycled steel for future releases. Well, I'm glad to say Fortis is indeed sticking to its promise of sustainability, and all new Marinemaster watches use recycled steel for all steel parts. Sometimes it's easy to forget about our impact on the environment when we operate in the luxury industry. Some brands are indeed making a conscious effort to limit their impact, and it's good to see an independent brand like Fortis join the worthy cause and help pave the way for others to follow.
So there we have the new Fortis Marinemaster, an ode to a famous era of the brand's history. While these new watches may not bear a resemblance to their forebears, it's a fantastic nod to history in what is a fresh start for the Marinemaster name. Make sure to check out the Fortis website for more information.
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Watch specifications
Marinemaster M-40/M-44
M-40: F8120003/F8120004/F8120005/F8120006/F8120007/F8120008/F8120009/F8120010 M-44: F8120013/F8120014
Metal coated with deep lacquer, embossed Fortis Logo-O's, SuperLuminova® Ring, applied metallic Indices with SuperLuminova®, Fortis Logo with SuperLuminova®
Recycled stainless steel
Case Dimensions
M-40: 40mm diameter M-44: 44mm diameter
Sapphire with AR coating on both sides
Closed case back with ultra engraving
M-40: UW30 (Sellita SW200-1 base) M-44: WERK 11
300 m / 900 ft / 30 atm
Choice of rubber in matching color with a pin buckle, or stainless steel block bracelet with quick-adjustable slide clasp
M-40: €2,950 on rubber strap or €3,300 on block bracelet; M-44: €4,250 on rubber strap or €4,600 on block bracelet
MarkB says:
Oct 13, 2021 at 13:43
Very nice, but pricey.
Boemher says:
Nice watch, but Id take a Seiko Marine Master and the spare €1000 change.
I saw this one in the metal, and the build quality is exceptional. The price is very fair. I'd go as far as to say better than the Seiko Marine Master.
Baramats says:
I love it, it is VERY nice to see something that looks good and use a different case shape. Everything with this watch is very thought through in every detail and it shows. The only negative is that there is no dark blue yet or the possibility to get a grey dial with the orange strap. The 40 mm version in grey is going to be very hard to pass.
I like that they are still using the Sellitta based movements, though maybe a bit pricey, but looking to everything else with the watch I could pay that and keep the watch for a long time.
Compared to the BB58 or a Seiko MM this one has a lot more going for it in terms of design.
Agreed! It's nice to see something new and with its own character. I was impressed with the build quality and how well it wore on the wrist.
The grey dial is a bit of a signature color of Fortis, much like the orange. You might be able to contact the brand directly and ask about swapping the straps? They "may" be able to help as they're all 21mm I believe, but don't quote me on that!
Warky says:
Are those screw in bars for convenient strap changes Sarge or are they just aesthetic?
I love to change up straps so that would be a big plus for me (for some reason I just don't trust the "quick release" ones on a tool watch).
You know what? I genuinely cannot remember. I spent more time looking at the front of the watch on the wrist than the back. Knowing Fortis, I'd imagine they are functional though.
Very nice! Wish they included info on lug width and lug to lug. The "full specs" on their site only offers 1 lug width, of 21mm, for both models, but I suspect that's only for the orange strap of the M-44 given the pic above.
Looking at the Fortis website all strap colors have the 21mm measurement on the back side. Sadly I do not know the lug-to-lug though.
pdsf. says:
Thank you for checking 🙂
RAOUL says:
Interesting watch. Apparently the dial represents TEU containers on cargo ships, hence the marine connection. The new caliber bothers me including the size of the watch.
Both models wear incredibly well on the wrist. Even the 44mm which I'll admit I was a little skeptical of at first.
Any idea on the lug-to-lug measurement of either piece?
Afraid not! I didn't have a caliper when I saw that back in September, and I've not seen an official statement on the fact. If I can find out, I'll let you know.
Nov 13, 2021 at 22:00
The M-40 should be about 43 mm lug-2-lug according to the youtube video of OlfertCo. Really compact watches.
RickyCrymi says:
Lovely watch, I'd have this any day over a Seiko MM. That's just me personally. Yes the 40 does seem expensive for average spec and without the locking bezel, and pity that the 44 only comes in orange as the other colours are lovely. The 13 date in orange text is irritating / naff though. Some photos show it black and some orange which really bugs me on a very expensive watch. So much for the devil is in the detail. Not sure about the German text on the case back either but no one sees that! Pity the heavy metal block strap isn't recycled steel either
Likewise, I'd take this over the Seiko MM. The 40mm is a solid watch and I genuinely think the price is fair. It is a shame that the bezel lock is only on the 44mm though.
Tommi Licci says:
This is exceptionally pricey given Fortis's image as a brand where you get a lot of discount on.
The step between case and bracelet also leaves me wondering about "build quality" and design choices.
I was on the fence about the hooded lug design when I saw the press images and was actively unsure when I first had it on my wrist. And then I wore it for a week and it turned my world upside down.
The build quality is what makes this piece. The case has been crafted by one of the finest (and I mean that as no exaggeration) machiners in the industry. The "wobble" in the hooded lugs is perfectly uniform and is what had me playing with this model in the light all day, every day.
I was wearing the white dial, which is my favorite because of the way the lume ring around the dial is invisible by daylight and the way the date integrates into the dial more subtly. Simply put, this case couldn't have been made any better by anyone I've encountered in the industry, and that's saying something.
CiberKe says:
With all respect, an usurper. The only Marinemaster should be named by Seiko: Therefore, the case, the bisel, not to mention de hands, lume, or the movement itself (8L56) original manufactured and not a sad copy, much better to go into the dark depths.
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