Rick Steves: Edgy, artsy Glasgow is Scotland's most underrated destination
Glasgow offers an energetic dining and nightlife scene, fanciful architecture and top-notch museums – most of which are free.
Rick Steves: Edgy, artsy Glasgow is Scotland's most underrated destination Glasgow offers an energetic dining and nightlife scene, fanciful architecture and top-notch museums – most of which are free. Check out this story on marconews.com: https://www.usatoday.com/story/travel/destinations/2019/04/15/glasgow-scotland/3447943002/
Rick Steves Published 7:30 a.m. ET April 15, 2019
Explore favorite European destinations with Rick Steves
Rick Steves, American travel writer, author, activist and television personality, shares his candid opinions on the best destinations in Europe. In its fairy-tale alpine setting, Neuschwanstein Castle is the most popular tourist destination in southern Bavaria. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
Made of pink marble and decorated with Gothic spires, Milan's cathedral is one of the largest in Europe. Cameron Hewitt
Spain's sunny port town of Cadaqués is an idyllic alternative to the glitzy Mediterranean resorts nearby. Rick Steves
Columns with intricately carved capitals and Moorish-influenced mosaics surround the cloister of Monreale Cathedral in Sicily, Italy. Sarah Murdoch
Try some traditional cuisine in one of the "bouchons" — simple, cozy bistros filled with character — in Lyon, France. Rick Steves
The Kelvingrove Art Gallery in Glasgow, Scotland, houses everything from Mackintosh's art nouveau designs to stuffed elephants to medieval armor. Gretchen Strauch
The Chapel of Bones at the Church of St. Francis in Évora, Portugal, contains thousands of skulls and bones unearthed from various churchyards. Cathy Lu
Handmade lace in Belgium can be pricey, but it's a characteristic, packable souvenir. Rick Steves
Frankfurt's "new" Old Town, called the DomRömer Quarter, is a reconstruction of the half-timbered historic district destroyed during World War II. Rosie Leutzinger
In the neighborhood around Florence's great cathedral, it's easy to time-travel back to the Renaissance period. Cameron Hewitt
Book reserved-time tickets online as far ahead as possible for Granada's Alhambra to ensure that you'll see its best part: the exquisite Palacios Nazaríes. Cameron Hewitt
As you drive around the Trotternish Peninsula on Scotland's Isle of Skye, you may encounter more sheep than people. Cameron Hewitt
After several years of being covered in scaffolding, the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau in France has returned to its romantic glory. Rick Steves
Cruising might not be for everyone, but it's an economic, efficient and popular of mode of travel in Europe and beyond. Cameron Hewitt
A footpath is all that connects Italy's Civita di Bagnoregio to the "mainland." Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
The town of Varenna on Lake Como is the perfect place to savor a lakeside meal or aperitivo. Cameron Hewitt
Sampling one of Germany's hundreds of sausage varieties from a street vendor is a classic German experience. Rick Steves
Wandering the ruins of Hadrian's Wall is a highlight of any visit to northern England. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
Monks at Sénanque Abbey in Provence divide their day between prayer and work, which includes tending their perfect rows of lavender. Paul Orcutt
Do your research on the big aggregator sites, but then book directly with a family-run hotel for a glimpse into the local culture. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
Iceland's thermal features are fascinating — but beware that testing the waters can result in severe burns. Cameron Hewitt
Tiny Zahara is a characteristically whitewashed Andalusian town with an evocative Moorish castle. Rick Steves
The thatched roof of Anne Hathaway's Cottage, where Shakespeare's wife grew up, seems to drip over the 500-year-old building. Cameron Hewitt
Though expensive, riding a gondola at night in Venice is one of the great experiences in Europe. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
The picture-perfect village of Oia in Santorini, resting a thousand feet high above a volcanic crater, is a dream come true for photographers and sunset watchers. Trish Feaster
A trip to Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina, is one of Europe's richest experiences. Rick Steves
Ireland's legendary green countryside is the backdrop for the coastal town of Kinsale, a winner in the annual "Tidy Towns" contest. Pat O'Connor
Get your ticket to cross Northern Ireland's Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge first thing in the morning, before the cruise groups — and the wind — take over. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
Visitors to Switzerland's gorgeous Berner Oberland can take in spectacular peak views from the Thrill Walk on the Schilthorn cliffside. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
The Rhine River is best experienced from the deck of a relaxing riverboat, surrounded by the wonders of this romantic and historic gorge. Rick Steves
Taking a train like Switzerland's Bernina Express keeps you close to Europe's charms. Rick Steves
Going up the Eiffel Tower is one of the great travel thrills in Europe. Getty Images/iStockphoto
European department stores (such as Galeries Lafayette in Paris) can be glamorous platforms for top fashion and people-watching. Steve Smith
Scotland's sparsely populated Isle of Skye is easiest to explore with a set of wheels that allows you to enjoy the scenery at your own pace. Cameron Hewitt
France's Chartres Cathedral boasts the world's largest surviving collection of medieval stained glass, filled with stories and symbolism. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
Balance out visits to hectic big cities by also spending time in tranquil villages like Beilstein, in Germany's Mosel Valley. Rick Steves
The burgeoning HafenCity district and its spectacular new Elbphilharmonie concert hall are revitalizing Hamburg's riverfront. Rick Steves
Florence's Duomo Museum, which reopened in 2016 after an extensive renovation, offers one of Italy's great artistic experiences. Rick Steves
Little tuk-tuks are a fun way to sightsee around Lisbon. Rick Steves
London's many attractions — such as its famous Harrods department store — make it a great winter destination for sightseeing and shopping. Lauren Mills
Carcassonne, in the south of France, is the perfect medieval fortress-city. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Attending a Gaelic football match at Dublin's Croke Park is a great way to meet new Irish friends — as long as you root for the same side. Rick Steves
The little village of Gimmelwald, high in the Swiss Alps, is one of my all-time favorite European destinations. Rick Steves
Experiential sightseeing, such as this food tour of Rome's Testaccio neighborhood, is time and money well spent. Rick Steves
The ultimate Riviera port town: Vernazza. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Europe's most scenic train rides are Switzerland's top three: the Golden Pass, Bernina Express (shown here) and Glacier Express. Getty Images/iStockphoto
The best Gothic interior is found in Paris' Sainte-Chapelle church. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Café-sitting, coffee-sipping and people-watching are some of the best ways to slow down and enjoy life like Europeans do. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
London, York, Bath and Edinburgh (shown here) are the most interesting cities in Britain. Getty Images/iStockphoto
A European picnic is a fine way to enjoy a cheap — and local — meal. Rick Steves
If you want a Swiss city, see Bern (shown here) or Luzern instead of Geneva. Leonid Andronov, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Sognefjord is Norway's most spectacular fjord. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Europe's most underrated sight is Rome's ancient seaport, Ostia Antica. Richard Goodrich, Getty Images/iStockphoto
After Prague, Kraków (shown here) and Budapest are Eastern Europe's best cities. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Grocery stores in St. Petersburg brim with colorful drinks, pickled goodies, fresh produce and friendly locals. Trish Feaster
The ultimate hike in England's Lake District: Catbells above Keswick. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Hadrian's Wall will give history buffs goose bumps. Getty Images/iStockphoto
The most pleasing French château is Vaux-le-Vicomte, near Paris. Getty Images/iStockphoto
The ultimate medieval walled town in Germany: Rothenburg. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Splurging on a gondola ride in Venice buys you a memory for a lifetime. Rick Steves
Head to a historic British pub to make friends with a bartender and get a glimpse — and a taste — of traditional English culture. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
There's magic afoot when you sightsee at night in Rome, as this young girl discovers near the Spanish Steps. Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
Memorable seaside views, whitewashed homes scrambling up the hillside, well-worn harborside cafés perfect for lingering — and no cars — all combine to make Hydra my ideal Greek isle. Rick Steves
Standing at a bar with a sampler of tapas and chalkboard specials on the wall is a quintessential Spain experience. Rick Steves
The views from the Rock of Gibraltar take in two continents, one ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Robert Wright
For the best food deals in Frankfurt, line up with locals at Kleinmarkthalle, a delightful old-school market. Rick Steves
Warsaw's magnificent Lazienki Park, filled with Neoclassical palaces, statuary and water features, is a great place to see Poles at play. Rick Steves
Ireland's romantic Dingle Peninsula is gloriously green. Dominic Bonuccelli
Sitting on a stone at the Castlerigg circle, in England's Lake District, inspires contemplation. Rick Steves
Splurging at a French restaurant often includes dining leisurely at an outdoor table. Steve Smith
Glasgow, astride the River Clyde, is a surprising city – and Scotland's most underrated destination. Just an hour from Edinburgh (making it an easy day trip), Glasgow offers an energetic dining and nightlife scene, fanciful architecture and top-notch museums – most of which are free. Today, this once-run-down city feels revitalized, and Glaswegians (sounds like "Norwegians") are eager to give visitors a warm welcome.
Locals here are some of the chattiest people in Scotland – and have the most entertaining (and impenetrable) accent. One once told me he was "British by passport, and Scottish by the grace of God." Their unpretentious friendliness makes connecting with people here a cinch. There's no upper-crust history, and no one puts on airs. In Edinburgh, people identify with the quality of the school they attended; in Glasgow, it's their soccer team allegiance.
In its 19th-century heyday, Glasgow was one of Europe's biggest cities and the second-largest in Britain, right behind London. It was at the forefront of the Industrial Revolution and is said to have produced a quarter of the world's oceangoing ships. After World War II, the city was hit with tough times, giving it a gritty image. But modern Glasgow is rejuvenating itself with a thriving cultural scene and its trademark knack for design and artsy edge.
Buchanan Street is the heart of modern, commercial Glasgow — and it's a fascinating place to people-watch. (Photo: Cameron Hewitt)
Glasgow tells its story throughout its vibrant streets and squares. At the heart of the city is George Square, decorated with a who's who of statues depicting great Scots, from top literary figures Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns to James Watt, who perfected the steam engine that helped power Europe into the Industrial Age. On the same square, in front of the City Chambers, stands a monument to Glaswegians killed in the world wars.
Architecture buffs flock here to appreciate the unique Glaswegian flair evident across the city's Victorian facades, early 20th-century touches and bold and glassy new construction. Most beloved are the works by Glasgow-born architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. During the late 1800s and early 1900s, Mackintosh brought an exuberant art nouveau influence to this otherwise practical, working-class city with his stimulating blend of organic shapes and Japanese-inspired design.
You'll have several opportunities to experience Mackintosh's work in Glasgow. The Mackintosh at the Willow tearooms, dating back to 1903, are an art nouveau masterpiece where you can have a meal or tea, or pay to browse exhibits about the history of this place. During the industrial boom of the late 19th century, Victorian morals prevailed and the Scottish temperance movement was in full force. Tearooms like the Willow were designed to be an appealing alternative to pubs – places where women could visit unescorted, without risking an undesirable reputation.
Across town, the Mackintosh exhibit at the Kelvingrove Art Gallery hosts a collection of the architect's works. Housed in a grand, 100-year-old Spanish Baroque-style building, the Kelvingrove is Glasgow's best museum – like a Scottish Smithsonian, with everything from natural history exhibits to fine artwork by the great masters.
The Kelvingrove Art Gallery houses everything from Mackintosh's art nouveau designs to stuffed elephants to medieval armor. (Photo: Gretchen Strauch)
Glasgow's artsy vibe extends beyond its museums, permeating city streets with eclectic mural art. City officials have cleverly co-opted street artists by sanctioning huge, colorful murals around town to prevent tagging. This creative problem-solving is typical of Glaswegians – taking counterculture energy and turning it into something positive. There's even a city map available that traces the city's best mural art.
To feel the pulse of the city, head to busy Buchanan Street, nicknamed the "Golden Zed" (Brit-speak for "z"), for the way it zigzags through town. And as home to the top shops in town, it's also dubbed the "Style Mile." This is the place to people-watch, gaze up at the elegant architecture above the storefronts and enjoy the talented buskers that bring the boulevard to life.
Live music is a major part of Glasgow's personality, and one of the best places to experience this is in the city's West End. I recently bellied up to the bar at the Ben Nevis Pub, where I expected to hear traditional Scottish music. But as the session got going, I was surprised to learn that the entire U.K. was represented in the band, with musicians from Northern Ireland, Wales, England and Scotland. My Glaswegian friend pointed out that this is the fun reality of Glasgow, where tribes come together to make music. And that (as a microcosm of our world in general) is a beautiful thing.
The more time you spend in Glasgow, the more you'll appreciate its edgy, artsy vibe and quirky, laid-back personality. The city's earthy charm and the Glaswegians' love of life make it one of my favorite stops in Britain.
Photo tour: The castles of Scotland
Urquhart Castle in Inverness-shire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Edinburgh Castle. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Inveraray Castle in Argyll. Mikael Damkier, Getty Images/Hemera
Eilean Donan Castle in Inverness-shire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Craigievar Castle in Aberdeenshire. Alan Crawford, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Culzean Castle in South Ayrshire. Douglas McGilviray, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Stirling Castle in Stirlingshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Dunnottar Castle in Aberdeenshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Castle Fraser in Aberdeenshire. Phil Hart, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Duart Castle in Argyll. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Blair Castle in Perthshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Balmoral Castle in Aberdeenshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Armadale Castle on the Isle of Skye. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Portencross Castle in North Ayrshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Caerlaverock Castle in Dumfries and Galloway. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Crichton Castle in Midlothian. Karin Claus, Getty Images/Hemera
Balvenie Castle in Moray. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Braemar Castle in Aberdeenshire. Eli Franssens, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Corgarff Castle in Aberdeenshire. Alan Crawford, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Drum Castle in Aberdeenshire. Alan Crawford, Getty Images/iStockphoto
St Andrews Castle in Fife. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Blackness Castle in West Lothian. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Crathes Castle in Aberdeenshire. Ruth Black, Getty Images/Hemera
Glamis Castle in Angus. Juliane Jacobs, Getty Images/Hemera
Dean Castle in East Ayrshire. Findlay Rankin, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Carnasserie Castle in Argyll. Traci Law, Getty Images/Hemera
Fyvie Castle in Aberdeenshire. Alan Crawford, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Castle Campbell in Clackmannanshire. Alistair Dick, Getty Images/Hemera
Bothwell Castle in South Lanarkshire. William McKelvie, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Dirleton Castle in East Lothian. Alan Crawford, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Kilchurn Castle in Argyll. Traci Law, Getty Images/Hemera
Hermitage Castle in Roxburghshire. William McKelvie, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Claypotts Castle in Angus. Getty Images/Purestock
Craigmillar Castle in Edinburgh. Carl Millar, Getty Images/Hemera
Dunrobin Castle in Sutherland. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Dunure Castle in South Ayrshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Huntly Castle in Aberdeenshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Brodie Castle in Moray. Daniel Wiedemann, Getty Images/Hemera
Cawdor Castle in Inverness-shire. Linda More, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Brodick Castle in North Ayrshire. Alan Crawford, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Craignethan Castle in South Lanarkshire. Martin McCarthy, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Dunvegan Castle on the Isle of Skye. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Doune Castle in Stirlingshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Dumbarton Castle in West Dunbartonshire. Getty Images/Purestock
Tantallon Castle in East Lothian. Getty Images/Purestock
Dunollie Castle in Argyll. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Castle Menzies in Perthshire. Jan Rose, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Dundonald Castle in South Ayrshire. Michael Harrison, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Hume Castle in Berwickshire. Getty Images/Purestock
Balgonie Castle in Fife. Getty Images/Purestock
Slains Castle in Aberdeenshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Kisimul Castle in the Outer Hebrides. Stephen Finn, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Lauriston Castle in Edinburgh. Getty Images/Purestock
MacLellans Castle in Kirkcudbrightshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Castle of Mey in Caithness. Alexander Klemm, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Newark Castle in Port Glasgow. Getty Images/Purestock
Ravenscraig Castle in Fife. Getty Images/Purestock
Rothesay Castle on the Isle of Bute. Getty Images/Purestock
Floors Castle in Roxburghshire. Thorsten Schmitz, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Spynie Palace in Moray. Daniel Wiedemann, Getty Images/iStockphoto
Dunstaffnage Castle in Argyll. Getty Images/Purestock
Threave Castle in Dumfries and Galloway. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Kildrummy Castle in Aberdeenshire. Getty Images/iStockphoto
Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.
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