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RyuGin (Tokyo, Japan)
Posted on October 25, 2012 by DarinOctober 30, 2012
RyuGin
Side Roppongi Bldg, 1st Floor
7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0032
Dining date: 10/20/12
RyuGin was close to the top of my list of restaurants to try in Tokyo. The modern kaiseki restaurant garnered three Michelin stars in the 2012 guide and is ranked #28 on the 2012 World's 50 Best Restaurants list (while I don't really believe in this list, it's hard to ignore). In addition, I feel like everything I've read about the restaurant has been nothing but positive.
Chef Seiji Yamamoto blends traditional Japanese kaiseki with modern Western influences. While an a la carte menu is available (after 9pm), diners are steered towards the tasting menu aka "Gastronomy Menu." Priced at ¥23,000, it contains around 11 courses (though many of the courses have multiple components).
Given its accolades from the Western world, the restaurant seemed well-equipped to accommodate customers from around the world. While there was Japanese spoken at some tables, English appeared to be the dominant language in the dining room. One neighboring table was even communicating seamlessly in French. While all of this often calls into question the authenticity of a meal in Japan, I'm confident that the food at RyuGin maintains its hold on its Japanese roots. As with any kaiseki menu, the food is highly seasonal and local, with a focus on the artistry of the whole plate (the Japanese have been doing it way before it became cool to do so in America).
Variation of Autumn Vegetables with Pine Nuts Dressing
The server said there were 12 different vegetables in the dish from whatever was found at the market. I could detect various mushrooms, bean sprouts and mushrooms in the texturally-dynamic dish. To bring it all together, it was dressed with a tasty pureed pine nut vinaigrette. I thought it was a very well-balanced first course.
Soft Simmered Abalone and Blue Crab with Wakame Seaweed and Apple Vinegar Jelly
Abalone Broth Hot Soup
Next was a duo of abalone, presented in-shell. The abalone, apparently simmered for 10 hours, was tender with just a little bit of chew – delish! Blue crab completed the shellfish tandem, while an apple vinegar jelly provided some bright acidity. To subsequently wash it down, the chef served a comforting soup made from the same abalone.
Premium Sea Urchin from Hokkaido in Lace Wrapping Deep Fried Rare with Edamame Beans Paste
Grilled Mushrooms Cold Soup
Next, this was quite a sight. Uni and seaweed were fried rare in some type of light rice flour batter. It was as good as it looked, with a delicate crunch and warm, oozing uni on the inside. So good! A cool mushroom soup provided an earthy contrast which was also quite nice.
Ichiban Dashi Soup with Grilled Seaperch and Matsutake Mushrooms in Autumn Presentation
A very moist, light piece of sea perch sat in a bowl of dashi. I was worried the fish would overcook in the soup, but that wasn't the case at all. The fish was delicious, as were the tender slivers of matsutake, while a dashi broth brought a soul-satisfying warmth to the dish.
Today's Assortment of Sashimi RyuGin Style
The assortment included squid, spanish mackerel, two sea bream preparations, a type of shrimp (ebi), and a cup of ikura with autumn vegetables. These were all pretty good, with the most interesting being the spanish mackerel with a smoked hay condiment providing a ton of depth. My favorite was probably the salty ikura with earthy mushrooms and greens.
Autumn Colors on a Plate: Grilled Thorn Head Fish, Eggplant, Chestnuts, Ginkgo Nuts
Next was this plate with a grilled white fish and thinly sliced fried mushroom. The fish was perfectly cooked, moist with a crispy skin. An accompanying mixture of chestnuts and chrysanthemum provided a cool and refreshing bite while a slice of peach, lightly pickled with ginger, was an interesting flavor combination.
Simmered Presentation: Soft Octopus and Lightly Fried Sea Scallops with Autumn Vegetables
Here, octopus was paired with a still-raw fried scallop. I liked the texture between the crispy scallop and slightly chewy octopus, paired with simmered spinach and turnips.
Chef Yamamoto's Specialty: Charbroiled Large Wild Eel with Kinome Leaves in Don Style
Shrimp Broth Red Miso Soup
This was also one of the most memorable dishes of the meal. This was my first time having eel in Japan and I was thoroughly impressed. The eel was cooked in a way that it had a delightfully crispy skin, while keeping a juicy interior. Loved the texture and it was so delicious. It was served don-style, atop some brown rice. Lightly pickled egg, beans and a root vegetable sought to provide a slight acidity to counter the eel, while a shellfish-based miso soup was a wonderful finisher to the course.
Following the last savory course of the meal, I was asked if I was still hungry; if so, the chef could prepare an additional course of either fresh soba or chicken rice (inspired by his time in China). I sort of misunderstood and ordered both…given the success of the meal at this point, I wasn't going to reject anything coming out of the kitchen.
Chef Yamamoto Remembering His Childhood with Chinese Chicken Rice
The first "extra" was this one. This is similar to a rice dish I eat every Thanksgiving and Christmas, a Chinese sticky rice (nuomi fan) with tiny diced mushrooms, carrots and chicken.
RyuGin Original Homemade Cold Soba Noodle with Yuzu Flavor
I was told one of the sous chefs was making this fresh in the back. Soba is everywhere in Tokyo and I haven't had a bad bowl (except the hit soup ones!) but I was very curious if RyuGin could elevate it. This was easily the best soba I've had so far with a superior, addicting chewy texture. The yuzu zest was a nice touch, but I didn't really need it.
Two Grapes
The first dessert of the evening was this duo of grapes. The first was a grape imbued with CO2 (I think), which resembled champagne when it burst in the mouth. Pretty cool. The second was a concoction frozen quickly via liquid nitrogen, cracked and topped with a grape jam. The interior of the grape had something like pop-rocks, leaving that familiar sensation in the mouth. The flavors were good, though I'm not a huge fan of the whole pop rocks sensation.
Grilled Ginjou Sake Oyaki Souffle with Egg Soft Cream
The final dish of the evening was this dessert, the chef's take on a souffle-style oyaki. It was prepared with sake, which I could taste in each light and airy bite. A rich, eggy soft cream….kind of like a thick froyo, provided a sweet, creamy contrast.
To pair with dessert I had a bowl of hot matcha. Bitter and slightly thick, I really enjoy this with dessert or as an end-of-meal drink.
I had a nearly flawless meal at RyuGin, which lived up to the hype in my opinion. There wasn't as much molecular gastronomy flair or "tricks" as I thought there would be, which I was actually pleased with. Instead, the preparations seemed to be relatively simple and straightforward, focusing on great ingredients and excellent execution. Service was impeccable, something almost always expected at a Michelin three-star, but it often fails to impress. Even though I still have a lot to eat in Tokyo, I think this will be close to (if not at) the top at the end – I may even drop in one more time before I go. Easily one of my best meals of 2012.
RyuGin (Tokyo, Japan) (2)
Pierre Gagnaire (Tokyo, Japan)
Joel Robuchon (Tokyo, Japan)
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Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi (Tokyo, Japan)
Posted in Dining Out, Japan	Tagged japanese, michelin starred, michelin three star, roppongi	permalink
RyuGin (Tokyo, Japan) — 4 Comments
michelinstarfinedinings on May 24, 2013 at 9:24 pm said:
I heard mixed opinions on Ryugin, but let me tell you that your review and photographs have seduced and I am looking forward to give it a try. Was it easy to book? My hotel conciege sounded confident, as opposed to, say, Sushi Saitou.
Darin on May 24, 2013 at 11:15 pm said:
Glad to have swayed you! It was relatively easy to book; you could even do it on your own. Haha yes, Saito is a whole different story..
D on September 1, 2013 at 9:32 am said:
Hi… I tried booking at Ryugin but was informed that I needed to book through the concierge of the hotel im planning to stay at. Unfortunately, the concierge at my hotel is unable to book Ryugin in particular for reason which remain unknown to me.
You were able to book Ryugin on your own?
Darin on September 1, 2013 at 5:32 pm said:
I was. Sounds like they have changed their policy, though I'm curious as to why your hotel's concierge isn't able to make a reservation. Good luck!
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ink. (Los Angeles, CA)
Fried Chicken @ Farmshop (Santa Monica, CA)
Test Kitchen Reunion (Los Angeles, CA)
Pan-Roasted Halibut, Chanterelles with Pea Shoots
The Taste: Picnic in the Hills (Los Angeles, CA)
Baja Night 3.0 (Los Angeles, CA)
Shin-Sen-Gumi Little Tokyo (Los Angeles, CA)
The Taste: Street Eats (Los Angeles, CA)
The Taste: Secrets from the Kitchen & Cellar (Los Angeles, CA)
The Taste: Burgers & Beer (Los Angeles, CA)
Flying Pig Cafe (Los Angeles, CA)
Wagyu Steak
LudoBites 7.0 (Los Angeles, CA) (2)
Seafood Risotto
Animal (Los Angeles, CA)
Night + Market (West Hollywood, CA)
Bruxie (Orange, CA)
The Spice Table (Los Angeles, CA)
LudoBites 7.0 (Los Angeles, CA)
Din Tai Fung (Arcadia, CA)
LudoBites 7.0 Reservation Giveaway
Gjelina (Venice, CA)
Totoraku (Los Angeles, CA)
Sushi Nozomi (Torrance, CA)
Wolvesmouth @ Beer Belly (Los Angeles, CA)
L'Epicerie (Culver City, CA)
Picca (Los Angeles, CA)
Chaya Downtown (Los Angeles, CA)
Urasawa (Beverly Hills, CA)
KCET Uncorked @ Bouchon (Beverly Hills, CA)
Taste of the Nation 2011 (Los Angeles, CA)
Braised Lamb Shanks
2011 Grande Marque Champagne Tasting (Santa Monica, CA)
LudoBites America (Redondo Beach, CA)
Ad Hoc Fried Chicken @ Bouchon (Beverly Hills, CA)
Sotto (Los Angeles, CA) (2)
Spruce (San Francisco, CA)
Locanda (San Francisco, CA)
M.B. Post (Manhattan Beach, CA)
Breadbar Japan Benefit Dinner (Los Angeles, CA)
Pheast (Los Angeles, CA)
Wonton Noodle Soup
Kokekokko (Los Angeles, CA)
The Restaurant at Rancho Valencia (San Diego, CA)
Oven Pulled Pork
Son of a Gun (Los Angeles, CA)
Jean Philippe Patisserie (Las Vegas, NV)
Bistronomics 2.0 @ Breadbar (Los Angeles, CA)
Cafe Boulud @ Animal (Los Angeles, CA)
Lotus of Siam (Las Vegas, NV)
Raku (Las Vegas, NV)
Walter Manzke @ Biergarten (Los Angeles, CA)
Noe (Los Angeles, CA)
China Poblano (Las Vegas, NV)
Joel Robuchon (Las Vegas, NV)
Wazuzu (Las Vegas, NV)
Sotto (Los Angeles, CA)
é by Jose Andres (Las Vegas, NV)
25 Degees & Library Bar (Los Angeles, CA)
Braised Beef Brisket
Ramen Jinya (Studio City, CA)
Maison Akira (Pasadena, CA)
LA Market (Los Angeles, CA)
Gold Standard 2011
Angeli Caffe (Los Angeles, CA)
Cafe Pinot (Los Angeles, CA)
Spago (Beverly Hills, CA)
Pliny the Younger @ Father's Office (Los Angeles, CA)
Mori Sushi (Los Angeles, CA)
Magnum: Pal Cabron (Los Angeles, CA)
Aburiya Toranoko (Los Angeles, CA)
Hatfield's (Los Angeles, CA)
Playa Rivera - 2/10/11
Border Grill Downtown - 2/3/11
Lukshon - 2/4/11
First & Hope - 1/26/11
Mastro's Beverly Hills - 1/29/11
Out the Door - 1/10/10
Masa's - 12/29/10
Wolvesmouth - 1/15/11
Bar Agricole - 1/8/11
Cotogna - 1/8/11
Coi - 1/7/11
Katana-Ya - 12/30/10
Fraiche - 12/16/10
Commonwealth - 12/28/10
Luce - 12/27/10
Tony's Pizza Napoletana - 12/23/10
Christmas 2010 - 12/25/10
The House - 12/23/10
Leatherby's Cafe Rouge - 12/19/10
Mo-Chica - 12/10/10
Wayfare Tavern - 11/29/10
Test Kitchen: Closing Night - 12/13/10
Flour + Water - 11/28/10
LudoBites 6.0 - 12/5/10
Zero Zero - 11/27/10
Frances - 11/27/10
Prospect - 11/26/10
First Anniversary: Top 5 Meals of the Blog Year - 11/28/10
Thanksgiving 2010 - 11/25/10
Pork Belly Confit - 11/3/10
Drago Centro - 11/18/10
Test Kitchen: Haru Kishi - 11/16/10
Hatfield's - 11/11/10
LudoBites 6.0 - 11/11/10
Test Kitchen: Alain Giraud - 11/4/10
SugarFish Downtown - 11/6/10
Moreton Fig - 11/8/10
Cecconi's - 11/2/10
Leg of Lamb - 10/31/10
Lasagna - 10/30/10
Saam Room at the Bazaar - 10/22/10
Scarpetta Beverly Hills - 10/25/10
La Botte - 10/15/10
Test Kitchen: Ricardo Zarate - 10/16/10
JiRaffe - 10/13/10
Drago Centro - 10/9/10
Chaya Downtown - 10/7/10
Rivera - 10/6/10
Test Kitchen: Marcel Vigneron - 10/1/10
Test Kitchen: Adam Horton - 9/27/10
Osteria Mozza - 9/26/10
Bouchon - 9/26/10
American Wine & Food Festival - 9/25/10
WP24 - 9/1/10
Asanebo - 9/12/10
Urasawa - 9/11/10
Sushi Zo - 9/10/10
Slanted Door - 8/30/10
LA Times Celebration of Food & Wine - 9/5/10
LudoBites - 9/2/10
Tartine, Pizzeria Delfina, Bi-Rite - 8/29/10
Morimoto Napa - 8/28/10
Benu - 8/27/10
Test Kitchen: Walter Manzke - 8/25/10
Test Kitchen: Red Medicine - 8/22/10
Animal - 8/21/10
LudoBites Truck - 8/14/10
Totoraku - 8/7/10
Ad Hoc Fried Chicken - 8/1/10
Hatchi Series - 7/29/10
LudoBites - 7/21/10
Daniel Boulud Brasserie - 7/4/10
Burger Bar - 7/4/10
Bartolotta - 7/3/10
Bandera - 6/26/10
Mako Sushi - 6/25/10
Yatai Ramen at Breadbar - 6/23/10
Umami Burger, Scoops - 6/20/10
Grace - 6/19/10
Petrossian - 6/18/10
Providence - 6/17/10
Pot Roast - 6/13/10
Porterhouse Bistro - 6/10/10
Pasta - 6/1/10
Red O - 5/30/10
Mitsuwa's Japanese Gourmet Foods Fair - 5/29/10
Daikokuya - 5/18/10
Cornish Hen - 5/9/10
Father's Office - 5/8/10
The Golden State - 5/8/10
Chicken Curry - 5/1/10
The Dining Room at the Langham - 4/30/10
Braised Pork - 4/25/10
Melisse - 4/22/10
Mo Chica - 4/20/10
BLT Steak - 4/10/10
Dean Sin World - 4/10/10
Lazy Ox Canteen - 4/9/10
Haven Gastropub - 4/8/10
Fukada - 3/27/10
Syrup Desserts - 3/25/10
Wood Spoon - 3/25/10
Sushi Sasabune - 3/15/10
Steak - 3/14/2010
Old Vine Cafe - 3/6/10
Pizzeria Ortica - 3/6/10
Gold Standard - 2/28/10
Bottega Louie - 2/26/10
Steamed Fish - 2/14/10
LA Street Food Fest - 2/13/10
Church & State - 2/12/10
Craft - 1/5/09
Aziza - 12/27/09
Ad Hoc - 12/28/09
The Restaurant at Meadowood - 12/26/09
Bottega - 12/26/09
Quince - 12/24/09
The French Laundry - 12/23/09
Steak - 12/7/09
Seafood Risotto and Chocolate Cake - 12/6/09
Bouchon Beverly Hills - 11/21/09 and 11/22/09
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